How much power?
#1
03-22-2006
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How much power?
So what kind of power can these trucks take? If I throw in a bunch of mods I dont want to kill my engine from having a weak bottom end. I might go supercharger but I dunno, I for sure want to go
Intake (already have)
Straight pipe exaust (Cat then just pipe no muffler exists before rear tire)
3.73 gears (maybe 4.10s but doubtful)
SuperChip programmer
Underdog pullies (all 3 I think it is)
and JBA headers.
I think with all that it'd get quite a bit more power to the crank, and if I did decide to get a supercharger I wouldnt want to push more then 6-8psi (I dont want to rebuild the motor).
However I think doing just bolt ons alone might be to much for the engine and tranny (which I have Auto).
So does anyone know of what these can push?
Intake (already have)
Straight pipe exaust (Cat then just pipe no muffler exists before rear tire)
3.73 gears (maybe 4.10s but doubtful)
SuperChip programmer
Underdog pullies (all 3 I think it is)
and JBA headers.
I think with all that it'd get quite a bit more power to the crank, and if I did decide to get a supercharger I wouldnt want to push more then 6-8psi (I dont want to rebuild the motor).
However I think doing just bolt ons alone might be to much for the engine and tranny (which I have Auto).
So does anyone know of what these can push?
#2
03-22-2006
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#3
03-23-2006
Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
So what kind of power can these trucks take? If I throw in a bunch of mods I dont want to kill my engine from having a weak bottom end. I might go supercharger but I dunno, I for sure want to go
Intake (already have)
Straight pipe exaust (Cat then just pipe no muffler exists before rear tire)
3.73 gears (maybe 4.10s but doubtful)
SuperChip programmer
Underdog pullies (all 3 I think it is)
and JBA headers.
I think with all that it'd get quite a bit more power to the crank, and if I did decide to get a supercharger I wouldnt want to push more then 6-8psi (I dont want to rebuild the motor).
However I think doing just bolt ons alone might be to much for the engine and tranny (which I have Auto).
So does anyone know of what these can push?
Intake (already have)
Straight pipe exaust (Cat then just pipe no muffler exists before rear tire)
3.73 gears (maybe 4.10s but doubtful)
SuperChip programmer
Underdog pullies (all 3 I think it is)
and JBA headers.
I think with all that it'd get quite a bit more power to the crank, and if I did decide to get a supercharger I wouldnt want to push more then 6-8psi (I dont want to rebuild the motor).
However I think doing just bolt ons alone might be to much for the engine and tranny (which I have Auto).
So does anyone know of what these can push?
4.10's would definitely help you out on launchs (recommended)
And headers: in my honest opinion, it's way too much money for the minimal gains.
#4
03-23-2006
Headers - You can't blame headers in the fact that they yield small gains ALONE. They are an important part of a big package. You need headers if you have built heads, intake manifold, cams, fuel, etc... If you have an intake and pully, headers aren't nearly going to work to their potential. You cant crap alot, without eating alot, thus a bigger poop shoot won't help you in the least...
Straight piped, its gonna run like crap. Get a magnaflow (I am biased on the muffler)
Leo made like, 220 whp all motor and he never had a problem. (260+ at motor)
Gears and programming will help greatly...
Straight piped, its gonna run like crap. Get a magnaflow (I am biased on the muffler)
Leo made like, 220 whp all motor and he never had a problem. (260+ at motor)
Gears and programming will help greatly...
#5
03-23-2006
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#6
03-23-2006
#7
03-23-2006
Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
I must be using the wrong term, because straight pipes that I mean still has the cats, just after the cat its pipe with no muffler out. Basically cheaper and less restricting. Yeah I dunno bout headers to be honest or supercharger.
#8
03-23-2006
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#9
03-23-2006
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a magnaflow will help build power, more so that straight pipes in most cases
but back to the topic at hand, there are a few guys running around on stock bottom ends with EE kits and bolt ons, they have had no problems at all. if youre concerned about your trans, just keep up with maintenance, flush it every 25k, use a good synthetic fluid
but back to the topic at hand, there are a few guys running around on stock bottom ends with EE kits and bolt ons, they have had no problems at all. if youre concerned about your trans, just keep up with maintenance, flush it every 25k, use a good synthetic fluid
#10
03-24-2006
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You dont have to worry about power adding on these motors till you hit 300rwhp thats where people start breaking parts...with the EE sc running 8psi and a tune from bamachips and other bolt ons your gonna max out at about 275rwhp...play with the heads and put a big bottle on there and your gonna have to start worrying. In other words the engine will be fine with the mods listed. And if you are gonna SC dont waste money on the UD pullies, defeats the purpose and youll get less boost.
I gained noticable power with my Borla duels straight out the back...especially in the low end.
I gained noticable power with my Borla duels straight out the back...especially in the low end.
#11
03-24-2006
IF you're gonna SC the 4.0 you might think about a 5.0 and manual tranny swap. The 5.0 will be a much better engine because it will last longer than the supercharged 4.0 and it will be not only much easier to upgrade but the manual tranny will be stronger. You can go AOD tranny for v8 too.
Aaron
Aaron
#12
03-24-2006
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Originally Posted by Red_Ak_Ranger
IF you're gonna SC the 4.0 you might think about a 5.0 and manual tranny swap. The 5.0 will be a much better engine because it will last longer than the supercharged 4.0 and it will be not only much easier to upgrade but the manual tranny will be stronger. You can go AOD tranny for v8 too.
Aaron
Aaron
#13
03-24-2006
Originally Posted by NicksterSVT
Dont start this one up again... weight to horsepower ratio, ohc vs pushrod, inspection, oh yea and weight... 5.0s had their time, they belong in older rangers.
Aaron
#14
03-24-2006
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
Straight pipe exaust (Cat then just pipe no muffler exists before rear tire)
Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
So does anyone know of what these can push?
As someone stated, Endless your running a big bottle or some fierce boost levels, theres no need to worry. The weakest part of these endgines ( rather most restrictive ) are the exhaust side of the heads. Once they are opened up and a good exhaust setup is obtained, with no boost or a bottle I would imagine you could hit 225-235rwhp with a manual tranny.
I know of one ' bolt on ' ranger truck that hit 220 at the wheels N/A with just mail order parts, never opened the heads. I know of a mustang that has hit 230 N/A with a 5 speed manual ( I believe the new stangs have a T5 in them? ) .
#15
03-24-2006
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Originally Posted by Red_Ak_Ranger
Yah sure, because we all know an engine pushed to its limits is much safer than an engine that develops the same power simply. And ****, its soo hard to swap in a 5.0 into the newer rangers(sarcasm). Plus ****, it costs like what, 4K for your supercharger? It costs a lot less for a super on a 5.0, and thats if you cannot find an already supercharged 5.0 engine, easy on older mustangs.
Aaron
Aaron
Aaron.. Nick is just being practical. Endless someone has the resources, doing an engine swap can be a pain. You've had your hands on wrenches for a while as well as many others. I would bet the MAJORITY of those on these forums havent a clue what a cherry-picker is ( whats that noise.. search engines going crazy! ) or a ring compressor.
The 5liter swap would be cheaper with the right donar, but being practicle.. a lot of people would destroy their rides trying it.
*I* would find a v8 swap semi easy. I have a shop and a garage to work out of as well as 4 or 5 friends in fab-shops to tap into for ' indifferent parts '.. You probably have the same.. others don't.
*I* dont think 4grand for 75hp is worth it. Neither do you.. but the months spent ( as it would take some ) and the time for research, buying tools.. it makes an engine swap seem impracticle.
Give it a thought from a ' n00b ' perspective that has never pulled a motor before. You have a product with a set of instructions and probably pictures on whats where and what to do. A simple ' craftsman mechanics ' tool set will be all thats required for the EE kit. Compare that to what even you or I would need ( Remember the PATS system and the wiring required for that 5.0 ) to do that task.. Its 2 different worlds.
#16
03-24-2006
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Originally Posted by Red_Ak_Ranger
Yah sure, because we all know an engine pushed to its limits is much safer than an engine that develops the same power simply. And ****, its soo hard to swap in a 5.0 into the newer rangers(sarcasm). Plus ****, it costs like what, 4K for your supercharger? It costs a lot less for a super on a 5.0, and thats if you cannot find an already supercharged 5.0 engine, easy on older mustangs.
Aaron
Aaron
Like I said, 5.0s had their time, yes they are dime a dozen, yes they are easy to swap. ANY engine with any type of forced induction is not going to last as long as an N/A. Safer? What is safer about it? It doesnt matter what you put a supercharger on, you are gonna push it to the limit anyway(or atleast I would). If you add the weight, not only are you going to have to upgrade the brakes to make it "safer", but you will also need to modify the suspension. D had another good point, what about the pats? Are you gonna just make it a carbed ranger? I dont know about your state, but my state lists in their inspection laws that no matter what, you CANNOT install an engine with an earlier build date the vehicle it is going in. Exhaust, you gonna use the factory exhaust system? I think not, you MUST have the same emission controls on the vehicle that were installed from the factory. OBD II computer systems store the VIN # in the computer, when you swap a computer, you must take it to the dealer to have the VIN re-burned into it so the OBD II inspection machine will recognize the VIN on the reg. card and the VIN in the ecm.
Easy swap? Yes... Anywhere near legal, safe, or passing inspection? NO...
#17
03-27-2006
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Yeah I already have a 5.0 in my ol 86 Tbird (what I had before this truck) and did the swap myself because I live close to work and all that good stuff. Going from a Tbird 5.0L to a Stang 5.0L HO I noticed alot of difference, however that car was really just a toy. I take it to the track now and again and run 13's all day, It would run lower the frame twist when I gas it in first.
Anyway,... With a 5.0 Ive been there done that kinda deal. I'm not real sure what to do with my truck right now, next thing I guess Ill just get a new muffler as I dont want to loose torque and our shop just hooked up with a exaust dealer so we get stuff at cost now.
Anyway,... With a 5.0 Ive been there done that kinda deal. I'm not real sure what to do with my truck right now, next thing I guess Ill just get a new muffler as I dont want to loose torque and our shop just hooked up with a exaust dealer so we get stuff at cost now.
#18
03-27-2006
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I would move out of NC, dude. Seriously, move to IN. Things are so much better for builders.
Originally Posted by NicksterSVT
Like I said, 5.0s had their time, yes they are dime a dozen, yes they are easy to swap. ANY engine with any type of forced induction is not going to last as long as an N/A. Safer? What is safer about it? It doesnt matter what you put a supercharger on, you are gonna push it to the limit anyway(or atleast I would). If you add the weight, not only are you going to have to upgrade the brakes to make it "safer", but you will also need to modify the suspension. D had another good point, what about the pats? Are you gonna just make it a carbed ranger? I dont know about your state, but my state lists in their inspection laws that no matter what, you CANNOT install an engine with an earlier build date the vehicle it is going in. Exhaust, you gonna use the factory exhaust system? I think not, you MUST have the same emission controls on the vehicle that were installed from the factory. OBD II computer systems store the VIN # in the computer, when you swap a computer, you must take it to the dealer to have the VIN re-burned into it so the OBD II inspection machine will recognize the VIN on the reg. card and the VIN in the ecm.
Easy swap? Yes... Anywhere near legal, safe, or passing inspection? NO...
Easy swap? Yes... Anywhere near legal, safe, or passing inspection? NO...
#19
03-28-2006
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Irons1n.
How much are you looking to spend? How much time do you want to put into these mods?
If you want the best bang for your budget buck then here is your list.
Intake (you already have)
exhaust (yes get a muffler)
Bama tuner running 91+octane
Electric fan.
A liberal estimation of gain would be about 25 HP for about $1000. That isn't too bad. Add a tonneau cover and you will also get over 20 mpg on the freeway easily.
I haven't seen any dyno numbers on an underdrive pulley on a ranger that justified the cost. Plus if you get an efan then you will need a higher out put alternater/ or the lights will dim when idle (if that bothers you).
There are a couple guys on here with jba headers and while they saw an increase they didn't think they were worth the retail cost (most were purchased below retail or used) and when you factor in the difficulty to get them installed, it just doesn't sound worth it until you move up to forced induction.
How much are you looking to spend? How much time do you want to put into these mods?
If you want the best bang for your budget buck then here is your list.
Intake (you already have)
exhaust (yes get a muffler)
Bama tuner running 91+octane
Electric fan.
A liberal estimation of gain would be about 25 HP for about $1000. That isn't too bad. Add a tonneau cover and you will also get over 20 mpg on the freeway easily.
I haven't seen any dyno numbers on an underdrive pulley on a ranger that justified the cost. Plus if you get an efan then you will need a higher out put alternater/ or the lights will dim when idle (if that bothers you).
There are a couple guys on here with jba headers and while they saw an increase they didn't think they were worth the retail cost (most were purchased below retail or used) and when you factor in the difficulty to get them installed, it just doesn't sound worth it until you move up to forced induction.
#20
03-28-2006
Originally Posted by NicksterSVT
Like I said, 5.0s had their time, yes they are dime a dozen, yes they are easy to swap. ANY engine with any type of forced induction is not going to last as long as an N/A. Safer? What is safer about it? It doesnt matter what you put a supercharger on, you are gonna push it to the limit anyway(or atleast I would). If you add the weight, not only are you going to have to upgrade the brakes to make it "safer", but you will also need to modify the suspension. D had another good point, what about the pats? Are you gonna just make it a carbed ranger? I dont know about your state, but my state lists in their inspection laws that no matter what, you CANNOT install an engine with an earlier build date the vehicle it is going in. Exhaust, you gonna use the factory exhaust system? I think not, you MUST have the same emission controls on the vehicle that were installed from the factory. OBD II computer systems store the VIN # in the computer, when you swap a computer, you must take it to the dealer to have the VIN re-burned into it so the OBD II inspection machine will recognize the VIN on the reg. card and the VIN in the ecm.
Easy swap? Yes... Anywhere near legal, safe, or passing inspection? NO...
Easy swap? Yes... Anywhere near legal, safe, or passing inspection? NO...
Ok I guess it's really what you have access too and find easiest. There's no laws or testing up here in my part so many would be at a disadvantage.
Aaron
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