well finally got my new heads ordered from alabama cylinder head. Will be starting next sunday.. SO, does anyone have a detaild how to thread?

 

Hopefully a 3.0?

A haynes/chilton manual is your best bet on it.

 

um, no.. that is why it is in the 4.0 area lol.

 

Not the first time I got busted with that. i looked at your sig to see.

If it was 2001+ 4.0 i would let a machanic deal with it or get a junkyard motor. I don't think the 2000 has all the timing chains that the newer ones do.

 

no its the OHV.. so no timing chain issues to deal with!

 

OHV's are the NORMAL engines! pushrods, one cam, I can actually build one without special $500 worth of tools just for the timing sets! lol.


I'd grab yourself a ford factory repair manual for your truck....covers all bases and is very nice to have. eBay about $40 or so per volume.

Full set for $100
2000 FORD RANGER TRUCK Shop Service Repair Manual 3 Vol:eBay Motors (item 380140479253 end time Nov-14-09 20:45:41 PST)

$90 for the two volumes without the electrical book...
2000 Ranger Truck Ford Repair Manuals Vol 1 & 2:eBay Motors (item 390084390837 end time Nov-18-09 17:45:20 PST)


Sorry I can't help you too much. All I know is that passenger side head is a tight fit on your engine if the engine is left in the truck.

 

hmm..well the truck is getting sold as soon as this is done, so cant justify spending 100 bucks on repair manuals.. thanks though Shane! Will do a little more diggin online see if i can come up with a digital copy or something.

 

I can probably get you a digital copy, give me 10 minutes.

 

its pretty straight forward just alot of steps intake and all that has to come off

 

LMAO. I like how you just edited your post so it didn't say take all the **** off and assemble in reverse. You really should stop worrying about your post count..

GCF=PM me and I may be able to send you the AllData step-by-step WITH torque specs and all. If you don't want me to mail it to you I can print everything out and scan it on here. PM me with your email or something. I literally just finished doing mine about 3 weeks ago. I can also tell you what to look for that I had to redo.

 

Alright I'm a noob. Do you need to know how to get to and remove the pistons or the valves or what?

 

haha, wow trent just called himself a noob.. WOW... and no, just need to know how to replace the heads, head gaskets, and all the other gaskets/seals that will need to be replaced.

 

SECTION 303-01C: Engine — 4.0L Push Rod 2000 Ranger Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Procedure revision date: 06/18/1999

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cylinder Head
Removal

Remove the drive belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05.
Recover the A/C system. For additional information, refer to Section 412-03.
Loosen the bolt and separate the A/C manifold tube from the A/C compressor.

Disconnect the A/C compressor electrical connector.

Position the A/C compressor mounting bracket aside.

Disconnect the generator electrical connectors.

Disconnect the heater hose retaining clip and position the heater water hose aside.

Remove the generator mounting bracket.

Remove the lower intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Intake Manifold — Lower in this section.
Remove the LH and RH exhaust manifolds. For additional information, refer to Exhaust Manifold — RH and Exhaust Manifold — LH in this section.
CAUTION: If the rocker arm shaft is not loosened gradually, the shaft may become bent during removal.

Remove the RH and LH rocker arm shafts.

NOTE: Mark the position of the push rods so they can be installed in their original position.

Remove the push rods.

Remove the cylinder heads and the gaskets.

Installation

Clean and inspect all sealing surfaces.
NOTE: New bolts must be used.

NOTE: The head gaskets are not interchangeable and are marked for either right or left side use.

Position the cylinder head and gasket and install the new bolts in three steps:
Tighten to 34 Nm (25 lb-ft).
Tighten to 72 Nm (53 lb-ft).
Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

Install the push rods.

NOTE: Tighten the rocker arm shaft gradually or it may become bent during installation.

Install the rocker arm and shaft assembly and tighten the bolts in two steps.
Tighten to 33 Nm (24 lb-ft).
Tighten an additional 90 degrees.

Install the LH and RH exhaust manifolds. For additional information, refer to Exhaust Manifold — RH and Exhaust Manifold — LH in this section.
Install the lower intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Intake Manifold — Lower in this section.
Install the generator mounting bracket.

Connect the heater hose retaining clip.

Connect the generator electrical connectors.

Install the A/C compressor mounting bracket.

Connect the A/C compressor electrical connector.

Install the A/C manifold tube to the A/C compressor.

Recharge the A/C system. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00.
Install the drive belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I have pictures too but it won't let me copy and paste them. If you want to give me your email I can email you the whole thing.

 

Tom, if you could give me all the advice you can, it would greatly be appreciated.! i have a COMPLETE FEL-PRO Headset and two complete heads from alabama cylinder head on the way

 

What about head bolts. And Trent, that's almost all of it, but what about the torque specs for the lower and upper intake manifolds? When I get to the shop tomorrow i'll print EVERYTHING and i'll have to scan everything when I get home. I won't be home til about 1530 EST. Give me your email and i'll email everything to you. If you got the Fel-Pro gasket set, did you get the big one piece lower intake gasket or two seperate lower intake gaskets? AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection | Year Did you get the first one (two individual lower intake gaskets) or the second one (One piece lower intake gasket). If you get the first one in your box, you're going to need some RTV. I installed them and completely forgot about putting RTV on the front and rear of the block as there was no sealant and that's how I got an oil leak. I had to pull everything back off and redo the lower intake gasket with the 1 piece gasket ($50) and I used RTV.

 

Again....trying not to hack, but I believe I've read the head bolts are a one time use sorta deal....so new bolts will be needed.

 

They are, that's why I mentioned them. They are torque to yield so he will need 16 new head bolts.

 

The manifold torque specs are in a different page, I'll send that all to him as well.

 

yes you will need to get new head bolts all new gaskets and when you remove the pushrods make sure you put em back in the same spot and the same directon thay came out. reason for doing this is each pushrod wears different. and could lead to problems later down the road

 

I was gonna say undo the bolts, pull it off, slap the new one on and torque the **** outs the bolts then go another 90* but i see someone beat me to my smart *** answer..

Like others have said, its not THAT hard luckily there's not too much covering up the heads on our trucks.. other ones can be a royal pain in the ***. Just make sure you get new studs, keep the push rods in order, make sure the head gaskets have the correct holes for the coolant passages and none are covered up.. then plug all the stuff in at the end.. Nothing extremely hard, my best advice would be just to take it slow.

 

thanks for all the replies guys. Forgot to say it earlier, but yes i did order new head bolts.. Not sure about which gasket i will be getting, part number: HST9081PT1 on rock auto..

 

Take lots of pictures during disassembly and label the wire harness ect. It will make it much more easy.

 

Hopefully they send you a set of Felpro's that has everything included (including upper and lower intake gaskets.

Regarding the instructions, a Haynes Manual for bought at the local auto parts store would probably be the best bet. It has everything you'll need, including torque specs to do the job. And, thank yourself for not having the engine with the jackshaft and the multiple timing chains. The tools alone for the head run upwards of $300.

 

Thanks everyone.. Just for ***** and giggles, gunna call the auto hobby shop on base and see how much the mechanics would charge to do the job.. the wife doesnt think i can do it in a week.. Lol.