4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

leaking oil behind Crankshaft pulley!!!!! How do you fix!!??

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  #51  
Old 06-30-2010
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Bad thing now is, it says to replace the pulley bolt after removing according to the tech article. Its a torque to yield bolt. I hate to see what that freakin bolt cost. I bet I can only find it at ford. I don't know how important it is to replace it or just reuse.
 
  #52  
Old 06-30-2010
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they are made to be replaced for a reason. right? i don't think you wanna have to go back in there just to save a few bucks. i don't know what torque to yeild means but from what you said,, it must be along the lines of replace once used.
 
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Old 06-30-2010
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Yep, thats exactly what it means. I agree with Morris, I can't imagine it would cost more than a few bucks. Better safe than sorry.
 
  #54  
Old 06-30-2010
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If I have to buy it from ford, it will be more than a few bucks...lol put it this way, when I replaced TPS sensor, I wanted to replace the two little screws that hold it on and Ford wanted $9 APIECE for two little ol screws! Wtf, no wonder anyone wants to go to a dealership! Don't woy, I'm replacing it, ill prolly go to local hardware store that has everything and see if I can match it up, if not I guess ford it is
 
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Old 07-01-2010
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Do not get a hardware store bolt. Its not even close to the ford one. Just because the dimensions are the same, and the threads are the same does not make them equal. Ford has an entire department devoted to Fasteners as well as a full fastener applications lab to ensure that bolts provide the proper clamp load.
 
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Old 07-01-2010
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Originally Posted by My91Ranger
Do not get a hardware store bolt. Its not even close to the ford one. Just because the dimensions are the same, and the threads are the same does not make them equal. Ford has an entire department devoted to Fasteners as well as a full fastener applications lab to ensure that bolts provide the proper clamp load.
Note taken. Its pathetic though the bolt cant be reused; looks like they would have used a diffferent bolt
 
  #57  
Old 07-01-2010
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The guy who takes off his bed to pressure clean under it after getting a little dirt under it is *****ing about replacing a bolt lol
 
  #58  
Old 07-01-2010
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sure am Korey! in all seriosness, why use a bolt that can only be used once!?
 
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Old 07-01-2010
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Might be a little extreme, but if something major were to happen after you reused the original bolt they wouldn't be liable for anything?

I can understand on something like a cyl head or intake where you use a torque to yield bolt... even if it doesn't I think I'd rather just put a new one in!
 
  #60  
Old 07-01-2010
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Originally Posted by dixie_boysles
sure am Korey! in all seriosness, why use a bolt that can only be used once!?
Its done like that so the bolt can't be overtightened and destroy the engine. The bolt is set to a very specific torque limit, any more and it could do damage. Thats why its used, its not used just to cost you money.
 
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Old 07-01-2010
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Don't mean to step on your toes Trent, but Ford has no regard for overtightening a fastener in their design. A yeild bolt is used in order to provide the proper clamp force between the harmonic balancer and the crank. The bolt is acting like a spring and needs to torque into the yield range in order to create this force. Each bolt is tested on the actual joint and a torque strategy is developed to ensure the proper amount and angle is applied. The reason I know exactly how Ford designs their bolts is I work for one of the main bolt suppliers of Ford and work with their Fastener engineers on a daily basis.
 
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Oh no worries, I misunderstood the meaning of it then. Thanks for the lesson, learned something new!
 
  #63  
Old 07-01-2010
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Thanks Rob, learn something new every day. So now i have to get a new one and torque that one to a certain specificiation...damn

Nothing ever has to be easy
 
  #64  
Old 07-01-2010
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By the way, I finally looked under my truck and it seems to be dry at 73000km (45000 miles).
 
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Old 07-01-2010
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hmm, any major off roading lately? mud, sand?
 
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It's seen its fair share of mud, nothing to recently though. I've never had it in sand before.
 
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Old 07-01-2010
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just called Ford and I was actually surprised. The Torque to Yield Pulley Bolt was $6.13! I couldnt believe it! Like I said, just two little screws for the TPS were $9, so I just knew that a bolt was going to be outrageous! Going to pick it up after work
 
  #68  
Old 07-08-2010
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i found out that i didn't have an oil leak. my waterpump was leaking somewhere. either a seal or some gasket. i showed him where exactly and i was misteaken. my oil was fresh so it looked similar to coolant. (my area in there is dirty and the dirt hid the colour). i did touch it but didn't feel the differences in texture. they changed the seal and pump. my next question is, how does a water pump start leaking only after 45,xxx kms?
 
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Old 07-08-2010
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time to clean the motor then! I am tackling the harmonic balancer today. if i can get that beast off, the seal is right there. pop it out, replace and put back together
 
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Old 07-08-2010
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Originally Posted by morris
i found out that i didn't have an oil leak. my waterpump was leaking somewhere. either a seal or some gasket. i showed him where exactly and i was misteaken. my oil was fresh so it looked similar to coolant. (my area in there is dirty and the dirt hid the colour). i did touch it but didn't feel the differences in texture. they changed the seal and pump. my next question is, how does a water pump start leaking only after 45,xxx kms?

mine went out early also.
 
  #71  
Old 07-08-2010
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mine definitly is the seal. it has oli everywhere. im not running low yet though. I bought the two 8mm X 1.25 X 100mm bolts to go into the balancer for the puller, that dange thing better come off today! Ive heard it can behard getting the new seal in, is it Wayne?
 
  #72  
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I haven't done this specific balancer before, but one little tip is when you remove the balancer bolt make sure there isn't a washer as well that is still on the snout. Gets real frustrating trying to use the puller unsuccessfully.
 
  #73  
Old 07-08-2010
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Originally Posted by My91Ranger
I haven't done this specific balancer before, but one little tip is when you remove the balancer bolt make sure there isn't a washer as well that is still on the snout. Gets real frustrating trying to use the puller unsuccessfully.
Will do, like I said, it "should" be downhill after I get the damn balancer out of the way. i have the right bolts and all, that biotch better come off today
 
  #74  
Old 07-08-2010
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I'm a little effing mad right now. Maybe I should have checked after Morris said something. I got truck all back together with new seal and all. Crank up the truck and I hear sqeaking. I HATE sqeaking. I look over top of motor, underneath, etc...

Mom's bf looks at it with me and he says it sounds like a bearing. We climb underneath and as we're looking/listening, a drop of something hits him in the face. We look a little closer and it is goldis colored liquid dipping from above harmonic balancer from--------THE WATERPUMP!!! So that's what the sqeaking is. I guess the bearings are going out. I have also noticed I can't keep coolant in the resivoir, I always have to refill! And Dustin (ranger_1999) noticed my resevior the other day.

So now I'm going to buy a waterpump tomorrow and install, oh joy more mechanic work. I'm becoming the regular mechanic lately. I bet I replaced that seal when it didn't need it, oh well, It has a new one now. Waterpump "shouldn't" be too bad.
 
  #75  
Old 07-19-2010
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I never did post my pics from the oil leak. Here are the pics, as you can see, there was ALOT of sand on the harmonic balancer as well as cakes on the front seal. it was nasty, i cleaned this whole area up with brake cleaner.



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Also here is where I broke the waterpump bolt:

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Sara's Dad got that out no problem though!
 


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