MAF Sensor - Upgraded Intake and rough idle for 10 seconds on start - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 04-02-2012
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MAF Sensor - Upgraded Intake and rough idle for 10 seconds on start

Ok so I wanted to install a conical style air filter element on the end of my 4.0L SOHC intake tube, but the MAF sensor was molded into the original air box. A guy at O'Reilly auto parts said I can move the MAF sensor and make a hole for it in the intake tube. I did it and made sure it was a tight seal in the rubber intake tubing. I put a cone on the end of it and tightened it down. Now whenever I start it, it runs a bit rough (almost like a slight misfire) for the first 10 seconds and then it calms down to around 800 rpm idle zone. While driving it handles well and only once during my test drive has it bogged down while held in second coming down a hill.
Any ideas? Could this be a problem with the way I installed the MAF sensor? Is air leaking in somewhere? It isn't throwing a code and I have started and stopped the engine about 15 times to see if the idle changes (and it doesn't). I will post this and go take pictures of my work, and then post those...

MAF Sensor - Upgraded Intake and rough idle for 10 seconds on start-dsc_0001.jpg
Original Air Box

MAF Sensor - Upgraded Intake and rough idle for 10 seconds on start-dsc_0003.jpg
Moved MAF sensor from old box to intake tube (rubber) and used black electrical tape to make sure it was sealed during my tests

MAF Sensor - Upgraded Intake and rough idle for 10 seconds on start-dsc_0006.jpg
Engine bay with the new (cheap) intake

But will it work?
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Old 04-02-2012
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when you wasted your money on that intake you created a condition that your maf is not calibrated for. Your truck is in open loop during starting, and the ecu is not trimming the fuel, causing it to run too rich or too lean.

my favorite analogy-
I do not unhook my tv and rearrange the wires inside, why? because I don't understand how it works - this is the same reason why you should not modify your truck from how ford built it.
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Old 04-02-2012
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Funny part is, that I got that filter for free 5 years ago lol. So considering still, what about pulling the negative cable and trying over, or should I hook a programmer into it
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Old 04-02-2012
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The filter is too close to the MAF it is creating turbulence in the air flow.

Put it back to stock.
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Old 04-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blhde View Post
The filter is too close to the MAF it is creating turbulence in the air flow.

Put it back to stock.
FINALLY. That makes complete sense. So you figure if I had a piece of pipe about 6-7 inches long between the intake and the MAF it should work better?
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Old 04-02-2012
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Oh I just read put it back to stock lol
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Old 04-02-2012
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Maybe I should also point out that I only installed it for that sweet sound and whistle noise it makes on acceleration
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Old 04-02-2012
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Ok only thing I am actually still wondering is, if I were to leave it on is there a way to fix it easily and cost (cheap hopefully) or is the only option popping back to the old box and filling my hole in the intake tube. I don't know anything really about cars, which is why I ask all of you for help
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Old 04-02-2012
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Okay forget it everyone. Back to stock and running fine. Last time I will ever do anything to my truck, except maybe run it into the ground at some point
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Old 04-02-2012
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If you want the whistle pull the silencer out of the lower half of the box.
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Old 04-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blhde View Post
If you want the whistle pull the silencer out of the lower half of the box.
This.
you'll get almost the same sound.

i feel like i should bump the air box mod in the how-to forums.
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Old 04-07-2012
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Originally Posted by StxDangerRanger View Post
This.
you'll get almost the same sound.

i feel like i should bump the air box mod in the how-to forums.
Already removed the silencer, and removed the entire bottom portion of the intake box, allowing more airflow through my K&N lay-flat performance filter, back to stock it is running good, I think I will probably go with the K&N 57 series intake that comes with the new chrome pipe, fittings, MAF sensor housing, and filter.

Thanks Guys for all the help!
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Old 04-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patkelly1336 View Post
removed the entire bottom portion of the intake box
Thanks Guys for all the help!
Isn't this just drawing in all that hot engine air, therefore killing your power. I would look into an afe setup http://www.summitracing.com/search/Y...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc and make your own metal piping that runs to the throttle body. The way it is set up, it retains a type of air box but has a snorkel that routes lower to draw in colder outside air. The maf is retained in a plastic tube that the kit supplies that is also connected to the filter inside the box.
or a volant one which does the same thing.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VNT-19140/?rtype=1
Oh and the maf not working with the electrical tape and stuff is because it is programmed to work with a certain diameter tube. Once you alter the tubes size it cannot get an accurate measurement on the air that is passing it.
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Old 04-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patkelly1336 View Post
Already removed the silencer, and removed the entire bottom portion of the intake box, allowing more airflow through my K&N lay-flat performance filter, back to stock it is running good, I think I will probably go with the K&N 57 series intake that comes with the new chrome pipe, fittings, MAF sensor housing, and filter.

Thanks Guys for all the help!
good call. when it comes to these things, making your own is never good idea. especially with electrical tape...
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Old 04-10-2012
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If you would have gotten some pvc and ducted it down below the bumper then you would have had better luck. However just like ricers, a puddle will scare you then.
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