Just wondering if anyone makes them for the SOHC engine. Or, my other idea, which is to buy some JBA, and weld additional length into the runners. Would like to have more lowend out of the engine for daily use and towing.

 

Nobody to my knowledge makes a long tube for the SOHC in the Ranger. There may be long tube variants for the SOHC 4.0 mustang, but I am unsure. JBA shortys are about all you can get for this motor.

 

Has anybody tried longtubes from a Mustang? They look similar in contour, minus the fact that they're longer. I would just delete the EGR and weld up my own crossover pipe.

 

mac makes a cheap set for 4.0 Mustang. I was gonna try them, but I bought the y-pipe zach made for his truck.

 

Deleting the EGR will make your system more prone to knock.

 

I doubt that the long tubes for a stang will work. It is in a completely different vehicle.

 

different vehicle, but same engine. Theres a chance it will, and a chance it won;t. The real issue is after the header. Whether it be the direct fit Mustang- or a possible fit on a Ranger- the y-pipe will not fit. Some fab work will be needed.

 

The shorty or block huger style is all that fits. There is not enough room to get the pipes down under the truck.

If you have fab skills and time you can try to build customs.


IMHO, its a waste of time. The 4.0 in any flavor doesn't flow enough air to make the power the headers worth the work.

 

IDK, seems longtubes on a SOHC can get 20+HP across the board. That's a pretty large increase if you ask me.

 

Let me rephrase that, the cost of the custom built long tubes will not be cost effective for the horsepower they will make.

If you have to spend 1500-2000 to get a set on your SOHC for 20hp. Its not worth it.

Maybe in a drag racing kinda world it would be but on a DD its not.

 

Well, are JBA's worth it? What kind of gains do people see with those?

 

HI!... I'll be custom building a set of stainless steel LT's for my 07 4.0L Ranger this winter. Cost will be about $500(CAN). But I have a tig and do fabrication on the side. Lt's won't really give you more low-end. L/t's usually give you more mid range to top end power. Shorty headers are more for low-end increases. I gained 20RWH.P on my F-150 (built 5.4L) with a set of KOOKS L/T headers. On the 4.0L, I'd suspect about 10-12H.P depending on supporting mods.

 

Log your hours, build a jig when your done with the last fit. Maybe some people here would like a set.

 

HI!... Well this will be a one off project just for my truck. I'm too busy at work to fabricate up a jig and such.

 

well then why you even commenting??? the question was does anyone make them for our 4.0 trucks. You just building them for yourself does nothing for the other guys, so leave your comments out of the thread since your so busy and all.....

 

 

Shorty's are not for low end.

 

and your comment benefited the original posters question How?

 

HI!... I commented because anyone with some fabrication skills and tools can make a set for themselves. It's not that hard.

So why are you posting in this thread if your here just to flame.........

 

HI!... I totally disagree........

 

where are these numbers from? 20 hp on a motor such as ours, which's specs are 210 hp (157 kW) and 245 lb·ft (332 N·m)f. and it is the same one as the mustang 4L so the mounting will all work, but vehicle fitment is the issue... anyways, back to 20hp, that's 10% of the power of the motor... i highly doubt that the exhaust, even a full racing system, no cats, tuned mufflers... wouldn't give you more than 20ish... on our motors...

who the hell are you to be all snotty like you are being? i'm sure he was giving an alternative method to getting long tubes, as the purpose of the OP was how he can get long tubes, not an informative on commercially available ONLY items... go crawl back under your rock and keep your snotty attitude off the internet

thank you for making me stoop to your level...

 

having shorter exhaust tubes will ive you more high range power while longer tubes give more low end torque.

 

That is usually the key (same with anti-reversal as I've heard it called), but IMHO the rest of the exhaust would play an important role too. Diameter, length, muffler restriction, and such would play just as much of a role. Absolute design of the header itself will play a role as well, even given the exact same lengths

 

the key to low end torque is equal length tubes on the header to get the same flow rate from each cylinder. long tube headers are usually equal length or very close to equal for max power/torque production

 

HI!... Well I've seen the total opposite happen on many vehicles including my own on the dyno. Ran JBA shorties and lost top end power and picked up low-end. Then I switched to KOOKS long tube headers and lost a bit of low end (didn't care due to a 3500 stall) and picked up over 20RWH.P above 4500rpm and flattened out the peak power instead of making it peak too soon. This is the norm on every vehicle I have owner. Why do you think Nascar used long tube equal length headers? Their RPM operation range is in the 4500-8000Rpm zone. They want top end power not low-end. I think some get confused with short/long. On a intake manifold you want short tapered runners to keep air velocity up. Thats why short intake runners make good top end power. Long intake runners give good low-end power/tq but sacrifice top end like the 5.4L intake manifold. Next time your at the dragstrip, look around at the faster cars that run high rpms. 90% of them all run some kind of long tube headers. They don't need low-end power due to most of our race cars run high stall converters. 3500-4500 stalls.