The official 100,000 Maintenance - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 09-03-2005
PotterFX4's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 296
The official 100,000 Maintenance - Assistance Please

I am rapidly approaching the century mark and want to take care of most of this maintenance myself. I will start off saying that I am a novice when it comes to engines. My extended warranty is about to run out and I will be on my own in "no more warrany" land.

Ford reccomends the following things at 99,000 miles:
Change engine oil and replace oil filter (Up to 5 qts of motor oil)
Perform multi-point inspection
Rotate tires for optimal tire life
Inspect accessory drive belt(s)
Replace PCV valve
Change premium gold engine coolant
Replace spark plugs

Now I plan to go today to get plugs, wires and filters (never changed my own oil before). I can rotate tires but what else do I inspect while I am under there?

My goal is to check everything out before taking it to Ford for my final once over. They charge outrageous amounts of money for their 30-60-90-120 mile maintnance programs so I am trying to minimize that as much as possible (I have paid for it before its expensive). Besides after a month or so, I will have to do this all by myself unless I want to pay Ford to fix all the small stuff.

Also, is the haynes chilton (sp?) availiable yet for '02 on up?

Thanks for your help, its appreciated.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-03-2005
vansnxtweek's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 2,666
you drive a lot dont you!
id also maybe change the fuel filter i guess
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-03-2005
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 2,099
Here ya go, from autozone.com

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...EREPAIR+MANUAL

All of the maintenance items that you listed can easy be performed in your driveway.

While you are under the truck i would inspect the following, starting from the front.

- Steering rack, tie-rod ends. (check for leaks or torn boots)
- Upper and lower balljoints (check for torn boots, to see if worn, raise vehicle off the ground and grab the top and bottom of the wheel and wiggle it back and forth, if there is play it is either the balljoints or hub bearings. To determine which it is, have someone look at the balljoints while you move the wheel and if they are not moving its time for some hub bearings.
- Generally look over your engine and tranny for any leaks coming (lines, pans etc)
- Check u-joints in driveshaft. Grab the driveshaft close to the u-joint and try and move it up and down or side to side. If it does move, you need to replace that u-joint.
- While you have the tires off i would inspect the brake pads/shoes for wear. Also in the rear check the wheel cylinders for leaks. SOME small amount of seepage from the seals is normal, a large amount where the backing plate and majority of the wheel cylinder has fluid over it, is not acceptable.
- Check fluid in rear axle, not sure of 7.5's but 8.8's have the fill plug on the drivers side front of the diff and you should be able to put your pinky in the hole and point it downward and get fluid on your finger. You probably should change it if you have not done so. Make sure if you have a limited slip you get additive for it.
- Check the shocks. While the truck is siting, bounce the front and rear end, if it does not stop bouncing after the first or second bounce after you stop moving it, the shocks are probably going to need replacing.
- Check the CV axles, make sure the boots are not ripped and it might not be an obvious rip but check the inside of the wheel and the wheel well for gease and that signifies a broken cv boot.
- Check the front diff fluid. It's fill plug is on the drivers side close to the frame rail.
- Also check the rubber brake lines for cracking, they shouldn't be, but it doesn't hurt to check them.

Thats all i can think of right now, if i missed something, someone will fill ya in.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-04-2005
PotterFX4's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 296
Ok, noob question...how do I drain the axles? Just unbolt them and let the fluid gush out? The bolt back up and fill through the plug correct?

I can build buildings & houses but when it comes to vehicles I am a complete noob.

I know a lot of things will be needing replaced in he next few months and I hope to get to most of them before winter rolls around. The last thing I need is a major repair when I still have 2 yrs to pay off and the damn things is out of its extended warranty.

Thanks for the help!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-04-2005
PotterFX4's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 296
Quote:
Originally Posted by vansnxtweek
you drive a lot dont you!
id also maybe change the fuel filter i guess
I drive way too damn much.

I thought about leasing car...for a moment... until it dawned on me that I would need three cars for 36k/36 months at a time to cover all my miles.

Anyone want to buy my truck?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-04-2005
V8 Level II's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 7,834
Quote:
Originally Posted by 034x4
Make sure if you have a limited slip you get additive for it.
That's a good list, Jey. He won't need the friction modifier additive because he has a Torsen limited slip.

Ford specifies SAE 80W-90 plus friction modifier for the Traction-Lok L/S.

The Torsen L/S gets SAE 75W-140 synthetic axle lube only.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-04-2005
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 2,099
O good to know, had no idea the torsen didn't use additive.

There are one of 2 ways to change fluid. One is quicker and easier, but you can buy a "fluid evacuator" and suck the old fluid out of the fill plug hole. But alot of people don't like this because it obviously will not get out all of the fluid, and you cannot inspect the condition of the gear set.

So i would remove the differential cover and let the fluid drain out, inspect the gear set for abnormal wear and excessive metal in the fluid. You can also use a cleaner to clean out ALL of the old nasty fluid. and re-install the cover and fill the diff back up with oil.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-05-2005
PotterFX4's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 296
Good deal, thanks for the help Jey. You too Bob.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-06-2005
edgeofthecliff's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 392
Yeah I would do ALOT more then what Ford listed when it comes to 100k. Can't believe they (Ford) would do less for the amount of $$$.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-06-2005
RF Veteran
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 5,782
I only skimmed the other replies, but I do know that there is a chilton's/haynes manual for 02+, I've got one around here somewhere. It's a godsend when you're dazed and confused!
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-21-2005
cincy4point0's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 173
Yes Haynes finally has a manual out for 00+ Rangers, it should cover 1993-2005. This manual is something you DEFINTELY want to have. If it wasnt for the Haynes manual I would have been completely lost when I did my rear brakes.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-21-2005
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: PUEBLO, CO
Posts: 3,753
Quote:
Originally Posted by cincy4point0
Yes Haynes finally has a manual out for 00+ Rangers, it should cover 1993-2005.

huh? how does 1993 relate anywhere near 00+??


Also as fot the front diff, youll have to get the evacuator that Jey was talking abut unless you want to spend a few hours droppin the diff just to see the ring gear conditions...
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-21-2005
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Magna, UT
Posts: 153
I just bought the new haynes at autozone
covers 93-05
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-21-2005
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: PUEBLO, CO
Posts: 3,753
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedPowerRanger
I just bought the new haynes at autozone
covers 93-05

wow i just got owned bt a newbie....





ouch.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-21-2005
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Magna, UT
Posts: 153
just bought it on saturday.
i was very surprised it was available
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 09-21-2005
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: PUEBLO, CO
Posts: 3,753
yeah i know they came out in the last couple months...
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 09-21-2005
cincy4point0's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 173
Quote:
Originally Posted by SUPERGILDO
wow i just got owned bt a newbie....





ouch.
Yeah what now Gil!

hahaha
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
~~~what's the best oil for 100,000 miles or over~~~ phat_95_ranger_xlt Oil & Lubrication 22 10-20-2015 03:51 PM
The Official **Official Georgia Meet head Count** !! BamaRanger09 Meets, Greets, & Events 21 02-17-2010 07:51 PM
100,000 mile tuneup wildbill 4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech 11 10-11-2009 10:30 PM
uh oh...at 100 000 Sonic_03 General Ford Ranger Discussion 30 11-26-2006 08:24 PM
Its official - 100,000 miles PotterFX4 General Ford Ranger Discussion 16 10-17-2005 07:31 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:40 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.