Throttle slack fix.
#27
#31
You were at WOT before. There actually has never been a slack problem in Rangers -- it was only due to bad floor padding.
Also, unless you grind your throttle stop, you are NEVER at "true" WOT. The throttle plate stops a quite a bit before the plate goes full horizontal in the bore. A 1/2 shafting and grind does more and I did it with mine.
The "feel" you're getting is at the expense of cable life. If you are literally pulling the throttle to the stop by the pedal and not through the spring, you can break the cable ends off. Beware.
This is pretty much a bogus "feel good" mod that really does nothing for Rangers. The TSB from Ford on the problem indicates that some Rangers couldn't get to WOT because of improper padding beneath the gas pedal. The fix was to pull back the mat and remove a square of padding.
The mod will do NOTHING for your 1/4 mile or 0-60 times, and that's the indication that it's bogus. I've been dealing with this issue for 6 years and no one I've talked to ever has had numbers to back up their claim. In fact, the people that tested it found out it did nothing except feel different.
Take off the mod and have someone stand on your gas to the floor. Now check if the throttle linkage AT THE THROTTLE BODY can move any further. You'll find it doesn't.
Also, unless you grind your throttle stop, you are NEVER at "true" WOT. The throttle plate stops a quite a bit before the plate goes full horizontal in the bore. A 1/2 shafting and grind does more and I did it with mine.
The "feel" you're getting is at the expense of cable life. If you are literally pulling the throttle to the stop by the pedal and not through the spring, you can break the cable ends off. Beware.
This is pretty much a bogus "feel good" mod that really does nothing for Rangers. The TSB from Ford on the problem indicates that some Rangers couldn't get to WOT because of improper padding beneath the gas pedal. The fix was to pull back the mat and remove a square of padding.
The mod will do NOTHING for your 1/4 mile or 0-60 times, and that's the indication that it's bogus. I've been dealing with this issue for 6 years and no one I've talked to ever has had numbers to back up their claim. In fact, the people that tested it found out it did nothing except feel different.
Take off the mod and have someone stand on your gas to the floor. Now check if the throttle linkage AT THE THROTTLE BODY can move any further. You'll find it doesn't.
#32
Originally Posted by dangelj316
I just did mine. Allot better. My truck seems like it's acting kinda weird though. I'm thinking of cutting one zip tie off. I only put on 2.
Again, you can feel a difference in so-called "throttle response" -- but you can get the exact same RESULT in terms of truck movement by simply putting your foot down FASTER!
I repeat: this is an unnecessary mod which if overdone leads to problems. The only benefit is how it FEELS, not how the truck actually PERFORMS.
#33
How do you really feel about it John?
I'll check that stop in the TB next time I get a chance. Sounds good. I didn't realize that there was a stop that kept it from going true WOT.
I have only 1 tie on mine currently. Would that accomplish the same thing as removing the padding if not over done?
I'll check that stop in the TB next time I get a chance. Sounds good. I didn't realize that there was a stop that kept it from going true WOT.
I have only 1 tie on mine currently. Would that accomplish the same thing as removing the padding if not over done?
#34
#35
Yes, that's a whole different issue.
And Mike, people have never complained about not knowing where I stand on an issue, lol. I've answered the questions on this mod for 6 years and I have no patience for much of what is said about it. Almost nobody tests the throttle movement before doing it. They just talk about how much better it feels.
Over the years, a few folks broke their cables and some others had idle problems and you can even get a CEL light out of it.
They being said, there is ONE tyrap on mine. However, at full throttle the spring behind the pedal is still not fully compressed, meaning the linkage is unstressed.
I don't have a problem with people liking the better "feel" -- I like it myself. But it's NOT a performance mod -- that's what I have a problem with. It doesn't make your truck faster or have more acceleration -- it just makes you feel better in terms of "foot feedback".
Doing this "too far" causes problems, so it's a mod that should be done carefully and with a knowledge of what's involved. I've posted on it MANY times on several boards over the years, but such knowledge (sadly) gets lost and so here I go again...
And Mike, people have never complained about not knowing where I stand on an issue, lol. I've answered the questions on this mod for 6 years and I have no patience for much of what is said about it. Almost nobody tests the throttle movement before doing it. They just talk about how much better it feels.
Over the years, a few folks broke their cables and some others had idle problems and you can even get a CEL light out of it.
They being said, there is ONE tyrap on mine. However, at full throttle the spring behind the pedal is still not fully compressed, meaning the linkage is unstressed.
I don't have a problem with people liking the better "feel" -- I like it myself. But it's NOT a performance mod -- that's what I have a problem with. It doesn't make your truck faster or have more acceleration -- it just makes you feel better in terms of "foot feedback".
Doing this "too far" causes problems, so it's a mod that should be done carefully and with a knowledge of what's involved. I've posted on it MANY times on several boards over the years, but such knowledge (sadly) gets lost and so here I go again...
#38
Holy cow, what a difference. So easy too - less than 30 seconds to do the fix. Mine had a BUNCH of slack. The cable had a good 1/4" of slack (beyond the uncompressed spring) which made for maybe 3/4" or more in the pedal. I slapped on a heavy duty zip-tie as a spacer and it made a world of difference. Now with the pedal mashed, the spring just begins to get compressed, as it should. With the pedal free, there's still just the smallest amount of slack as to not effect the idle. Good stuff! Thanks guys!
n3elz: For my truck this actually was a performance mod... Before this, I was only getting about half-throttle with the pedal to the floor. Now the truck actually has some spunk.
n3elz: For my truck this actually was a performance mod... Before this, I was only getting about half-throttle with the pedal to the floor. Now the truck actually has some spunk.
Last edited by trenchdigger; 04-18-2007 at 02:58 PM.
#40
I must be one of the few lucky ones..
Looking at the trucks computer it sees a 100% throttle.
Looking at the throttle plate in the throttle body it opens all the way when someone inside floors it.
And I have no perception that I have to push the throttle extra far to get the truck to move.
Just a word to the wise... make sure you actually have a problem before attempting this.
Rich
Looking at the trucks computer it sees a 100% throttle.
Looking at the throttle plate in the throttle body it opens all the way when someone inside floors it.
And I have no perception that I have to push the throttle extra far to get the truck to move.
Just a word to the wise... make sure you actually have a problem before attempting this.
Rich
#42
thanks for this fix post...I was just typing up a post to request if anybody made a cable adjuster, since my gas pedal had about 1.5" of slack in it.
Did the fix so the spring is JUST starting to compress at WOT...
obviously it doesn't make the vehicle go faster, but it definitely gives a better and less mushy feel to the pedal itself....meaning better response time on MY part.
Did the fix so the spring is JUST starting to compress at WOT...
obviously it doesn't make the vehicle go faster, but it definitely gives a better and less mushy feel to the pedal itself....meaning better response time on MY part.
#43
For clarification, with my pedal smashed against the floor my throttle plate was only about 7/8ths open. It was not to the stop. With the fix it hits the stop when it is to the floor and when it is only too the floor. Not strain or bind.
Always check the actual plate position at WOT (the pedal to the floor) before you do this mod to see if it is needed. I have encountered one 2005 Ranger since I did mine that did not need fixed. Two others (both '04s) have needed the fix.
Always check the actual plate position at WOT (the pedal to the floor) before you do this mod to see if it is needed. I have encountered one 2005 Ranger since I did mine that did not need fixed. Two others (both '04s) have needed the fix.
#44
Want better throttle response for under $10?
Seafoam is the way to go. I couldnt believe the difference in throttle response once that stuff burned out. What you do is POUR 2/3 of the bottle in your fuel tank, and pour the rest into the brake booster vacuum line while the engine is running and at running temp(bout 195-220 degrees). The vacuum will suck the seafoam directly into the intake and this will sit on top of the valves, eating away at the carbon buildup. Once you have emptied the bottle, immeditally shut the engine off and let it sit for at least 10 minuets. Once you crank it back up, get on the road and stomp the gas peddle into the firewall. The more it smokes the more carbon it has cleaned off the valves. The difference is unbelieveable.
#45
ok, well, i ride bmx, and every few months. i have to replace the brake cable becuase it stretches soo much, and then eventually snaps. well, i was thinking about replacing the throttle cable on cars and if it would do anything. i didn't think it would becuase unlike my bikes brake cable, being pulled on with such great force, the throttle cable doesn't have a whole lot of force on it.
but i guess it does. thanx for un intentionally clearing that up for me haha.
but i guess it does. thanx for un intentionally clearing that up for me haha.