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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 10-03-2013
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with or without

Hello Ranger enthusiast.

Intro: I have a 2000 Ranger with the 4 liter 6 cylinder. 4X4 and stuck small rear doors.(that is something I will look into in the other discussions.)

I had a plastic valve come apart and drain all my coolant. This caused mine to over heat. I then replaced the head gaskets and it fired up and ran pretty good for a while.

I got about 3 seasons out of it but when the warmer weather showed up here in Vermont the Rod knock started to increase along with the oil pump pressure bouncing at idle.

I pulled the engine and cleaned up the crank and installed all new bearings for the crank and connecting rods. measured carefully and all torqued down properly with new seals.

Here is my question: I am now getting a code p0340. When I pulled the engine this plug disintegrated. I tried to just plug what was left into the sensor(crank shaft position sensor) and I am sure this is where the problem lies. When I look up the part it shows two to choose from. I don't have the pieces from the one that fell apart. the new ones have or do not have a release. What one do I order? With or without the release.

Maybe either will work but I don't want to wait for the other to come in if I choose the wrong one first.

Thank you for your input on this

Last edited by vermonter; 10-03-2013 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 10-09-2013
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I saw that lots of people viewed this post and no one responded. I ordered the one without. I just got it in and I will go install it. I will also let you know how it worked out. Thanks Anyway.
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Old 10-09-2013
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I installed the plug. I looks great but I still have the trouble I was having.

It is running rough and stalls at idle.

3/4 tank of gas.

the ODB code is P0340.

I think I am going to have to change the sensor next because I can not see anything obvious that would cause this.

If anyone knows anything else to check I would appreciate the help. I really want this truck back on the road.

Just to let people know I am not a mechanic. I do fix all my own stuff and learn as I go. I have been successful many times and do understand most of the terminolgy.
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Old 10-09-2013
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are you getting proper voltage to the sensor via the wire? sometimes it is not the sensor but the wire itself. Just a thought.
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Old 10-09-2013
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I was looking around the web and I think I found my problem.
First I am mistaken that it is not the crank sensor that the plug fell apart for it is the cam shaft sensor toward the back of the engine .
next is a guess i need some kind of alignment tool to time it.
I will look further into this.
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Old 10-09-2013
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ok now I feel dumb.
the syncro to the cam was unplugged.
I also noticed it looks like it is the wrong 60 degrees.
the book I have shows it 60 from the drivers side. i have it 60 from the passenger side.
I am too tire to finish it tonight. I will take up the timing effort tomorrow.
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Old 10-13-2013
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I have been reading up on the timing of the camshaft sensor and I do not have the tool.
I see los of pictures of the tool all over the web and it seems the vane is just entering the window for the sensor to read it at #1 piston TDC.
All the pictures I see of the sensor show it turned 60 deg from the center line of the engine clockwise from the front.
So that would be 30 deg the counter clockwise from the rear.
I counted 14 teeth on the gear so I just have to get it in the right one so that the vane is coming into the 60 degree window.
Here goes nothing.
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Old 10-13-2013
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OK the synchronizer is set right but the engine is still running rough.

I am going back to my high school auto shop class training(was a long time ago)
I am going to check things one at a time till I find the problem.
1. code scanner......no codes
2. vacuum.............hmmm there is a problem here
I hooked up a gauge to my brake assist line and the needle vibrates.
2a. I am going to check my compression in each cylinder to see if I can narrow the problem down.

I am most likely going to have to tear the top end back down due to an apparent mechanical issue. I must have made a mistake while putting everything back together.

I will post when I find the problem. Might be a while.
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  #9  
Old 10-20-2013
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I found a small pipe connection on the bottom of my throttle body. I also found a hose that goes to a connection that is covered by plastic guarding and I am not sure where it goes from there. I put the two together and now it fires right up runs smooth at idle. I drove it around the yard. It has lots of power and I am very glad that was the only problem with the engine.
Now I am going to move on to fix the rest of the problems.

1. Replace the other rear spring mount, (I replaced one when I got the truck and the other has now given into Vermont winter salty roads.)

2. While under there I am going to replace the middle leaf on each of the springs.(half of each is missing) I have the parts ready to go.

3. Install the new blocks for the front end alignment. Then I will take it to some one with a laser to align it.

4. Free up the stuck rear doors.

5. The body has some small rust problems. They don't look to hard for me to grind away and weld new metal in. The chassis is in good shape. It has no paint on it but the rust is only surface rust. I will give it a high speed wire brushing and a coating of rust stop paint.

6. Going to check the fluid in the differentials, though they don't seem to be leaking.

7. I just changed the transmission fluid and it looked good. (light colored and clear)
Also new oil in the engine and new coolant and I fixed that HVAC valve so it will not pop apart again.

Some may ask why I do all this. My answer is I do really like rangers and do not have enough money to buy a newer one. I have all the tools and time to do the work. When I am done I will have a truck that I know what has been done to it and can be very proud of it.

Parts in all I got less than 22 hundred into it and drove it for one year.
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