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8-Cylinder Tech If you are one of the few with a V8 engine in your Ranger, or if you dream of a Ranger with a V8 engine, this is the sub-forum for you.

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  #1  
Old 02-27-2011
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not very happy

took the truck to the track and not very happy with the et's. also the c4 broke. it was leaving ok but when it went into 2nd it would just fall on its face. im change a few things and getting the tranny rebuilt. with it running bad it did a 15.32 best pass

Last edited by faststang90; 02-27-2011 at 11:37 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #2  
Old 02-28-2011
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And what are we running… ?
Gears ?
Cam ?
Intake ?
Exhaust ?

Just interested !
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  #3  
Old 02-28-2011
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its a 1994 ford splash ext cab.
the motor i was told it was a stock 91 mustang motor. the gear is a 3:73 with a c4 tranny,
intake is a performer 289. the exhaust is1 5/8x 2.5 inch long tube headers, into a y 3 inch pipe to a borla muffler that is single in dual out. i have some parts on the way im hoping to get it into the mid to low 13's

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Old 02-28-2011
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[QUOTE=faststang90;1820359]its a 1994 ford splash ext cab.
the motor i was told it was a stock 91 mustang motor. the gear is a 3:73 with a c4 tranny,
intake is a performer 289. the exhaust is1 5/8x 2.5 inch long tube headers, into a y 3 inch pipe to a borla muffler that is single in dual out. i have some parts on the way im hoping to get it into the mid to low 13's



First off it is not a stock 91 Stang motor, 86 on Stangs had EFI.
A Performer 289 manifold is a Carb unit.
So if you are running an EFI Cam with a Carb you might be having a problem there.
Dependent on the tire OD the gear seems a little weak.
The headers - unless you are turning above 6k rpms, 1.250" will help increase the flow

These are just my opinion, just something to think about !
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  #5  
Old 02-28-2011
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i was just saying the motor was out of a mustang. yes i know they was efi but thats not a big deal. i did mustang motor with ported heads in a f 150 years ago and it was a mid 12 truck on motor and low 11s on spray. the tires are 28x12.5 et streets on this truck. i think the main problems was the person that had it before me locked the timing out. i got parts that will be here thursday and im taking the tranny to trans king friday. when i get it running better i will be changing the gear to a 410 or maybe a 4.56 and may try a 29.5x10.5 tire
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  #6  
Old 02-28-2011
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that's because it's a pick up truck. It's not supposed to go fast.
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  #7  
Old 03-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiltro View Post
that's because it's a pick up truck. It's not supposed to go fast.
It isn't?? Why is that?

Keep at it faststang, I'm sure you will figure it out. It took me a lot of jet adjustments to find what my motor liked at first. I was running a very similar combo at one time. 89 mustang long block, performer 289 intake and holley 650 dp. Never got it to the track, but it ran awesome.
I have since gone fuel injection, and will never look back! That is the way to go if you are ever thinking about doing it. Next thing that will help the truck is a good torque converter! I don't know what you have, but you may want to think about upgrading, especially if you have the trans out.
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  #8  
Old 03-01-2011
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i just need to get all the bugs out of it. i just got it so this was a see what it has track time. im working on all the things that i dont like about the truck. its just a pain to have a truck with a cage in it and be so slow.
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Old 03-02-2011
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Just asking... What rpm are you turning, off the line and through the lights ?
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Old 03-02-2011
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we was leaving about 2500 and it was running only 87 mph, the 60 foot times was slow like a 2.2 60 foot times. the truck had alot of problems that im working on now.
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Old 03-02-2011
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OK on the 2500.
Where is your timing set ?

Sometimes thing come together slow but this should be a good setup one you get it together.
Do you know the rpm range on the cam ?
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  #12  
Old 03-02-2011
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thats the problem the timing is lock out and its locked at only around 20* degress total of timing. the dist that is in it is installed wrong and i cant go any more timing because it hits the water neck. i have a new msd dist coming to day. when i had other motors i had hell with the oil pump drive shaft falling into the pan when it was not install right. so im praying this one was done right and it stays in the oil pump. around 5200-5500 is the best range on a stock mustangs cam. we have the shift light to come on about 5,300
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Old 03-02-2011
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OK then the cam is OEM Stk ?
Are you running the EFI Cam; that can cause some problems ?

I have seen the Distributor hit the water neck before; usually on rebuilds or someone didn’t mark it well enough OR just because they thought they could remember where it went, NOT !
Usually we pull it and move it one tooth depending on the way you need to move the body of the Distributor.
This worked on all but one SBF, not sure why things change one to another.

I am running the Billet MSD in my SBF also, nice product.

luck, ltr
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  #14  
Old 03-02-2011
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You want better times you need better stuff.

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  #15  
Old 03-02-2011
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the only thing i had to do is get the right gear for the roller cam. y do u think the efi cam is going to be a problem? i am going to get better parts i just want to see how fast i can get it before i change the motor. i have to get all the small things done first before i install a $10,000 motor. ot just takes some time

Last edited by faststang90; 03-02-2011 at 01:09 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 03-02-2011
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Your right on finding out the base… who know it may be fast enough, NOT !
Yes IMHO I do think the EFI Cam will be a problem, Lope spacing is different, contact a speed shop and check it out, I have been wrong before.

The 5.0L will be a good performer once you get it straighten out.

AND Chebbys small or big block don’t belong in a Ranger or any Ford for that matter.
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  #17  
Old 03-02-2011
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There is NO problem with running the stock mustang cam... Your problem is definitely in the timing as you said, and possibly in the fuel delivery. Can't you just clock the dizzy properly and try that first? A billet one isn't going to net you anymore power unless something is just plain wrong with your current one. OH, and if you happen to lose the oil pump shaft in the motor, and if it doesnt drop into the pan, a tube that fits over the shaft works nicely to pick it up. I just had mine drop in the pan and luckily was able to get it by pulling the water pump and timing chain cover... Not fun, but better than pulling the motor!
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  #18  
Old 03-03-2011
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i pulled the old one out and the shaft stayed in this time. i have to pull it back out but i think i will be ok. the timing being locked out is what i think was killing the power.
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  #19  
Old 03-04-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faststang90 View Post
i pulled the old one out and the shaft stayed in this time. i have to pull it back out but i think i will be ok. the timing being locked out is what i think was killing the power.
If you only have 20* of total timing then yea that will stop the engine from making its potentional HP. You should set your timing about 14* initial and tune it to give you about 40* total (with stock cam) and try to bring it all in by 3500 RPM. Once you get the timing dialed in then I would work on tuning your carb for the best ET that you can. We built a Maverick with a 302 and after getting the carb all dialed in we gained more then a full second. We had the car running 11.30's all motor and no it wasnt stock.
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  #20  
Old 03-06-2011
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forgive me for this as you may have coverd this already. the eng in question is a roller cam 5.0 mustang converted to carberation with electronic dis. if the distribiture on this eng is from a reguler 302 like a 70s or early 80s it WILL NOT work with a roller cam because the teeth on the dist. are cut at a different degree than the teeth no the cam. don't get me wrong it will run fine at first but over a short time the timming will begin to fluxeuate. when you nail it off the line it will go like hell untill it hits around 2500 then it will falllon it's face. the proper dist. for this is for the 85 / 86 5.0 HO mustang carberated. Autozone had one listed in there parts inventory about 10 years ago for $149.95 i do not recall the part # but i will also say do not use the brass gear they will try to sell you to convert yours because it will come apart under pressure. been there done that. cost me an eng.
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  #21  
Old 03-08-2011
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i had that problem with the f 150 wrong distibutor . i did a msd pro billet distibutor for a roller cam. not sure where the one that was in it but it was locked out so i changed it.
trans king called today and say the tranny was junk. they said 700.00 to fix it and it will be done in a few days.
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  #22  
Old 03-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stepside View Post
If the distribiture on this eng is from a reguler 302 like a 70s or early 80s it WILL NOT work with a roller cam because the teeth on the dist. are cut at a different degree than the teeth no the cam.
All the dist. and cam gears are cut the same. The diffrence is the type of metal they are made out of. You can not run a cast iron gear on a steel cam as the dist gear will be worn out and vise versa. You can run a bronze gear on a steel cam and it will work just fine and live buy why would you as there is no gain to it. If you are running an old school dist just get a steel gear and press it on and you will be good to go.
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  #23  
Old 03-12-2011
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i got some more parts in and installed them today. i got a new shifter and some gauges. im going to install the tranny tomorrow and try to finish it all. im going to install a better tach in the truck too

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  #24  
Old 04-01-2011
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it did a little better best was a 14.76. im going to look at the plugs and see about rejetting the carb. i think i may need to go to a single plan intake because it stops pulling around 4500
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  #25  
Old 04-01-2011
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Post up a video. Let's hear it rip down the track. I bet it hooks up good with that long wheelbase.
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