Hey, I'm getting an alpine deck (CDA-9884) as well as a 10" Alpine Type-R sub powered by a RF-500 mono block amp (power series). My question pertains to the choice of sub. Is one 10" sub enough in an extended cab ranger? And if so, do I have enough power running to it to make it sound good? How do these subs sound? Thanks for the help.

 

Depends how much bass you want. A 10" type R will be enough for an extended cab ranger. That amp is about right for that sub, maybe a little weak though. That sub is gunna draw alot of power so go with a 4 guage wiring kit and prolly about a 1-1.5 farad cap so you don't kill your alternator. This setup will sound good and clean. If you want it to hit really hard get a 12".

 

What about a ported vs. sealed box?

 

Sealed will give you a tighter cleaner sound, and ported will be louder and hit harder. A ten in a big ported box can sound louder than a 12". It all depends on what type of music you listen to. I personally am about install my alpine 10" type that arrived in the mail in a sealed box. the sealed boxes might require a little more power though, but not much more

 

a sealed box will give you a clean tight hitting bass(my personal preference), or a ported box will be a little more distorted(distorted might not be the right word) but will pull more SPL's.

 

Ported = louder, sealed = crisper. That is if they are built correctly.

 

I have a sealed box with a 10" Alpine Type R in my extended cab along with an MTX 400 Watt mono amp...all I can say is that I LOVE it...just right for what I listen to...which is everything!

 

sealed really is the best for all types of music. I would say only go ported if you listen to a lot a rap(yuck), or if you want to be heard a mile away.

 

Well...I tend to listen to everything, including rap. I'm just looking for something to add to the listening experience while driving. What about the type of sub...the R-type alpine. Just a good sub all around then?

 

That sub will be fine. Alpine subs are power hungry though.....

 

stick it in a sealed box. and what 07rangersport said about the 1.5 cap, dont listen to it, you dont need a cap, they are a waste of money, if your gonna do anything get an extra battery(which you dont have enough draw to need) and do the big 3. http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152355. any more questions get at me.

 

An extra battery costs more than a cap??? does it not?? Ever seen the lights dim on a vehicle driving down the road?? Thats because when the subs hit, they are drawing alot of current that puts alot of stress on that alternator. nicholoff might be right though you won't need a 1.5 farad cap, if you need one it will be like 0.5. sorry my bad...

 

I had a JL 10WO in a vented box and I liked it. Didn't take up a whole lot of room since it was placed behind the drivers seat. Sounded nice inside the truck, not to bad outside. The set up that you asking about should be fine for an "everything" listener.

 

To answer just about everyone: I upgraded my battery to the yellow top Ultima battery, I changed "the Big 3" and I'm still going to go with a capacitor (maybe a 1 farad) just to make sure there's enough juice and that my lights don't dim while going down the road. I think I'm going to stick with the ported box and if I don't like it after it gets installed then I'll take it back and get the sealed.

 

If your lights are dimming a cap isn't necessarily going to fix it. It just provides a constant flow of power, so if there is more draw on the cap then the cap can draw from the battery/alternator they'll still dim.

I had a 94 sunbird, and a friend with the identical car. My 2 5way 6x9s on a 600w rockford amp plus my 2 12" on a 1000w alpine amp didn't make my lights dim with no cap. He had only 1 amp in his and it dimmed horribly.

My battery was a good one (martech, if you ever see em!) and freshly rebuilt alt as well as a clean install will go a lot farther in providing a quality power supply to your amps.

 

NO. well you are partly correct. A cap does provide constant power to the amp, but a cap charges, then discharges, charges then discharges, so the purpose of a cap in a high draw audio system is to provide the system with another 'source' to draw from other than the alternator or battery. The power will be drawn from the cap for those really low notes and the battery just keeps recharging the cap. A good battery alone won't cause the headlights not to dim. You might have had the identical car, but he might have had too small guage a wire running to his amp, thus causing voltage drop(which is huge in a 12V DC system) and raising the amount of current that the system would draw.