I haven't messed with car audio stuff since 1995/1996. I don't know what's what these days. For the last two years I've had these woofers sitting in storage. JBL GTO1002D woofers and I just bought this box custom made for later model supercab Rangers. Bought it from Bright Star Car Audio in Pinellas Park, FL. I only lost about an inch or two of reclining ability with this box.









I still have to get an amp to drive them. For the time being I still run a factory six-disc in-dash changer along with factory speakers. The rear speakers have had it. They distort terribly more these days compared to when I first bought the truck three years ago. The right rear panel vibrates/rattles horribly. Ticks me off to hear it. I'm thinking about getting low level adapters to run from the factory speaker connections to the amplifier inputs. Last amp I had was a Kenwood KAC-923 and I loved it. Every now and then I look at Ebay for one or a KAC-1023. I need to read up on the latest amps to know what I'm stepping into these days. I don't care for built-in LPFs. I want an amp that I can manually turn the LPF on or off. Thoughts?

 

Sorry, this isn't a suggestion. But are those 10" woofers?

 

Yea. I could go twelves in this box, but at the time I bought the woofers I got them at a steal of a price brand new. They've just been put away ever since.

 

im with you on the LPF switch. I had an alpine amp in my f150 with an external switch and it worked pretty well. Some of the new head units will also have a LPF feature that you can adjust through the menus for the sub output. consider checking those out if you end up swapping out the factory unit.

 

sorry, this is a total thread jack, but are you a pilot or PJ? I suppose you are in the air force, since your location is macdill afb.. Just wondering.. Im at Ramstein...

 

If it is an a/b class amp then you can turn the LPF on and off. If it is a Class D amplifier (except for maybe a few) then you will always have a LPF on because class d amps generally dont do as well with the higher frequencies anyway and are usually mono amps meant for subwoofers.

Personally, I'd just get rid of the back speakers and worry about the front. Stereo is 2 channels, not 4.

As far as what amp to get, give a price range and I can point you in the right direction.

Also, check out FloridaSPL.com. No offense to RF, but the audio forum is a little slow and undereducated. FLSPL is were a lot of big competitors and audio enthusiasts go to. It's mostly Florida members and we have a lot of members in the Tampa area (including myself) including some who live right down by MacDill. I actually go down to MacDill to go to the commissary (College Student, dad is retired Navy).

 

I'm going to run the factory head unit until it dies. Ditching the rears is a definite as soon as I bring the box to life.

 

whats the rms rating? voice coil config?

 

I ended up ordering something new. I just want to get this done with. I hate having a lifeless box in the cab already.



I need to get wiring now.

 

Looks like a nice amp!

 

I almost overlooked it. When I read the box it said built-in low pass filter. When I looked at the display model I saw a switch for it. Ordered it for $219 from the military exchange online.

 

That's a pretty good price. Is that box sealed or ported? It looks like it's the size of a ported but I don't see the port in the pics.

 

No ports. If it sounds good the way it is I'll leave the boxe alone. If not, I'll make ports for it.