Sound Deadening/Insulation Q & A
#1
Sound Deadening/Insulation Q & A
Hey guys, I'm needing opinions on a good sound deadening/temperature insulation material, preferably that can be ordered on eBay, that won't cost an arm and a leg. I've read reviews on eDead, SecondSkin and Dynamat, but need more convincing.
Also, how thick (or how many layers) can you apply before you start running into panel fitting issues?
I'm a bit of an Audiophile/Videophile, and I'm swapping a 5.0 this spring, but don't want to hear anything besides my music unless my windows are down. Any help is appreciated, I have searched here, RPS and Bimmerforums, but need some more suggestions. Thanks fellas.
Also, how thick (or how many layers) can you apply before you start running into panel fitting issues?
I'm a bit of an Audiophile/Videophile, and I'm swapping a 5.0 this spring, but don't want to hear anything besides my music unless my windows are down. Any help is appreciated, I have searched here, RPS and Bimmerforums, but need some more suggestions. Thanks fellas.
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edead is good it is all i use. it is from elemental designs. great product and great company. check into their UE line. it is thick *** ****. fatmat gets good reviews. do alot on the floors and up the firewall as far as you can, and then do the doors. the rear wall do if lightly mine rattles more now than it did before. roof is also good to hit but use the paint on deadoner.
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use rammat
stay away from edead and fatmat (asphault based) as they will harden and loose their efectiveness over a few years
good butyl sound deadeners are:
raammat
second skin
and the most expensive is dynamat
ive used raammat to deaden and seal my doors about a year ago and its still working amasingly
i used 2 layers on the inner door and 2 layers on the pannel ... that was basicly a whole roll of the stuff
if your looking to do the whole cab i would start off with one layer everywhere and seal your doors.
for even better effectivness all of the good companies i mentioned carry a closed cell foam mat that you line all your pannels with
god this is gettign longer then i thought haha
but basicly i did my doors 2 on the inner and 2 on the outer sheet metal and then the floor and back wall in one layer and my roof in 2 layers and it was just under two rolls of the stuff
then i used spray adhesive to glue the closed cell foam to all my pannels and my head liner.. then since my carpet was already out i pulled the padding off of it then glued the foam to the bottom of the carpet and then the padding back on
ive had no clearence issues with my pannels
i also filled most of the empty voids in my cab with expanding foam .. but thats a different story.. a messy one :/
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...reatments.html
a thread in a nother foum showing and explaining how to seal and deaden your doors
i used 24 guage steel instead of plexi and self tapping screws then i put my raamat over the steel(i spray painted the non deadened side so it wouldnt get rusty)
stay away from edead and fatmat (asphault based) as they will harden and loose their efectiveness over a few years
good butyl sound deadeners are:
raammat
second skin
and the most expensive is dynamat
ive used raammat to deaden and seal my doors about a year ago and its still working amasingly
i used 2 layers on the inner door and 2 layers on the pannel ... that was basicly a whole roll of the stuff
if your looking to do the whole cab i would start off with one layer everywhere and seal your doors.
for even better effectivness all of the good companies i mentioned carry a closed cell foam mat that you line all your pannels with
god this is gettign longer then i thought haha
but basicly i did my doors 2 on the inner and 2 on the outer sheet metal and then the floor and back wall in one layer and my roof in 2 layers and it was just under two rolls of the stuff
then i used spray adhesive to glue the closed cell foam to all my pannels and my head liner.. then since my carpet was already out i pulled the padding off of it then glued the foam to the bottom of the carpet and then the padding back on
ive had no clearence issues with my pannels
i also filled most of the empty voids in my cab with expanding foam .. but thats a different story.. a messy one :/
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...reatments.html
a thread in a nother foum showing and explaining how to seal and deaden your doors
i used 24 guage steel instead of plexi and self tapping screws then i put my raamat over the steel(i spray painted the non deadened side so it wouldnt get rusty)
Last edited by bryce-man; 02-18-2009 at 10:18 PM.
#9
Your truck will be eerily quite if you use all 100sqft of 80mil haha thats awsome! Post install pics please!
I actually only live two towns away from that fatmat company.
use rammat
stay away from edead and fatmat (asphault based) as they will harden and loose their efectiveness over a few years
stay away from edead and fatmat (asphault based) as they will harden and loose their efectiveness over a few years
80mil fatmat is the thickest available of any brand dynamat xtreme is 65mil and damplifyer pro is 70 mil.
#10
edead is good it is all i use. it is from elemental designs. great product and great company. check into their UE line. it is thick *** ****. fatmat gets good reviews. do alot on the floors and up the firewall as far as you can, and then do the doors. the rear wall do if lightly mine rattles more now than it did before. roof is also good to hit but use the paint on deadoner.
eDuh uses rebadeDuh peel and seal. They MIGHT have a butyl deadener by now.
I reccomend second skin first, and RAAMatt 2nd. Both good butyl dampeners.
As far as what a ranger needs to be quiet? How quiet are you looking for? A couple layers on the roof, 2-3 in the doors, maybe one on the floor and firewall and 2-3 on the back wall, then add some foam insulation (like the neoprene stuff second skin sells) and it'll be as quiet as a caddilac.
#11
Great choice! holy sq footage! I don't know what your going to do with all that 80mil, holy crap.. kill some vibrations in your house furnace or washer/dryer. Im only buying 36sq ft of the fatmat 50mil this week its only $64 and comes with a roller. It should be enough for the ranger and double up to get 100mil in key places.
Your truck will be eerily quite if you use all 100sqft of 80mil haha thats awsome! Post install pics please!
I actually only live two towns away from that fatmat company.
Fat mat is not asphalt based it is butyl if you read the site.
80mil fatmat is the thickest available of any brand dynamat xtreme is 65mil and damplifyer pro is 70 mil.
Your truck will be eerily quite if you use all 100sqft of 80mil haha thats awsome! Post install pics please!
I actually only live two towns away from that fatmat company.
Fat mat is not asphalt based it is butyl if you read the site.
80mil fatmat is the thickest available of any brand dynamat xtreme is 65mil and damplifyer pro is 70 mil.
Yeah I plan to double/triple up the deadening where nessesary, foam the corners and seams and seal some joints in the back and under the jump seats (no deadening here, I can hear gravel hitting the rockers from the inside). I'll want to keep the interior as quiet as possible with 255/295 tires and a 302 and to take full advantage of my audio & video equipment.
I drove my grandfather's E39 M5 for a couple weeks and discovered the true meaning of "road comfort", ever since I've wanted the "M5" of Rangers, performance, luxury and looks, so that's my goal.
#12
I did my truck with second skin about 2 years ago. Took me forever, but was worth it IMO.
I decided to do an overkill install. I put in 2 layers of their "damplifier pro" product.
A butyl rubber compound attached to a heavy foil backing. It's about 2-2.5mm thick per layer.
About the thickness of a credit card. First layer went in north/south. Second went east/west.
On top of that I put in 5-6 coats of something SS calls "Firewall"
Again about 4-5mm total thickness. Firewall is a paint like combination heat and noise barrier.
Over that I put a layer of SS Luxury liner pro. A heavy vinyl barrier, bonded to a closed cell acoustic foam.
The lux liner is about 1/4" thick or so. I put this combo on the floor/firewall. The doors and back wall and the roof.
With a total thickness of between 3/8" & 1/2" I had a problem I reinstalling the headliner, and floor carpeting.
I cut back the lux liner about 3-4" from the edges. That did the trick.
There was a significant drop in the noise level in the cab. With the windows up,
all I heard was some wind whistle coming through/around the windows.
When I had my truck bagged I had to dump the muffler. So the noise comes out just aft of the passenger seat.
I have a magnaflow muffler and there was a significant increase in resonance in the cab when I dumped the muffler.
I'm trying to find a way to run the exhaust back out the rear of the truck now.
If anyones interested. Here's a link to the SS forum that covers in great detail my install. Don't know if you have t be a logged in member to view it.
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/forum...ead.php?t=2140
I decided to do an overkill install. I put in 2 layers of their "damplifier pro" product.
A butyl rubber compound attached to a heavy foil backing. It's about 2-2.5mm thick per layer.
About the thickness of a credit card. First layer went in north/south. Second went east/west.
On top of that I put in 5-6 coats of something SS calls "Firewall"
Again about 4-5mm total thickness. Firewall is a paint like combination heat and noise barrier.
Over that I put a layer of SS Luxury liner pro. A heavy vinyl barrier, bonded to a closed cell acoustic foam.
The lux liner is about 1/4" thick or so. I put this combo on the floor/firewall. The doors and back wall and the roof.
With a total thickness of between 3/8" & 1/2" I had a problem I reinstalling the headliner, and floor carpeting.
I cut back the lux liner about 3-4" from the edges. That did the trick.
There was a significant drop in the noise level in the cab. With the windows up,
all I heard was some wind whistle coming through/around the windows.
When I had my truck bagged I had to dump the muffler. So the noise comes out just aft of the passenger seat.
I have a magnaflow muffler and there was a significant increase in resonance in the cab when I dumped the muffler.
I'm trying to find a way to run the exhaust back out the rear of the truck now.
If anyones interested. Here's a link to the SS forum that covers in great detail my install. Don't know if you have t be a logged in member to view it.
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/forum...ead.php?t=2140
#14
i spent 500$ on TONS of second skin's better version and did my truck last spring. it took 2 weeks.
I am missing some pictures, but every inch of the trim, and the body have deadener on it, including the floorpan (2 layers)
in total i think it weighs an extra 60lbs now, but I don't care because I know my ranger isnt fast. It is quieter than most lexus, lincoln, cadillacs though. I do get some wind noise still at higher speeds but that is to be expected since it is a loaf of bread.
I am missing some pictures, but every inch of the trim, and the body have deadener on it, including the floorpan (2 layers)
in total i think it weighs an extra 60lbs now, but I don't care because I know my ranger isnt fast. It is quieter than most lexus, lincoln, cadillacs though. I do get some wind noise still at higher speeds but that is to be expected since it is a loaf of bread.
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HOW 2:
Detrim entire interior
Apply deadener, use heat gun, and roller (clean surface with alcohol first)
Retrim entire truck
I have no clue how much I bought but I spent 500-600$ on material from second skin. They had 2 grades, and I chose the better grade. I tested samples from Fatmat, and some other companies (cant remember)
I will make a video of me tapping my knuckles on the exterior bed, and then on the bodyside. The bed makes a hollow metal noise, the bodyside sounds like hitting an armored tank.
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I googled and googled and googled for results on tests. I found one AWESOME test that the person exposed them to extreme heat. The fatmat will drool like slime when heated enough. I don't think it would last, in maybe Arizona. No, I can't remember where I found the test too...
I do remember shipping for all my stuff was 27$ (I don't know HTF I can remember that, when I can't even remember how much I bought in sq ft.)
Last edited by Jp7; 03-01-2009 at 08:30 PM.
#24
From what I understand on sound deadening.... and I am self taught..
it does 2 things.
1 creates a barrier that bounces or absorbs sound
2 adds mass so that the thing it is attached to will resonate at a lower frequency you cant hear (good! for bass systems & rattles)
What would be really "value added" in this thread would be a video ride along with me on 94 going 70mph with no radio on. You can hear the difference.
it does 2 things.
1 creates a barrier that bounces or absorbs sound
2 adds mass so that the thing it is attached to will resonate at a lower frequency you cant hear (good! for bass systems & rattles)
What would be really "value added" in this thread would be a video ride along with me on 94 going 70mph with no radio on. You can hear the difference.
#25
Fatmat is thicker but it is very soft and weighs less. I don't know if you started using it yet but I'd return that even for the cheaper second skin. I cut off samples of each and stuck them to the inside of my screen door to test adhesion quality. They all stayed stuck on for 6 months until I took them off.
I googled and googled and googled for results on tests. I found one AWESOME test that the person exposed them to extreme heat. The fatmat will drool like slime when heated enough. I don't think it would last, in maybe Arizona. No, I can't remember where I found the test too...
I do remember shipping for all my stuff was 27$ (I don't know HTF I can remember that, when I can't even remember how much I bought in sq ft.)
I googled and googled and googled for results on tests. I found one AWESOME test that the person exposed them to extreme heat. The fatmat will drool like slime when heated enough. I don't think it would last, in maybe Arizona. No, I can't remember where I found the test too...
I do remember shipping for all my stuff was 27$ (I don't know HTF I can remember that, when I can't even remember how much I bought in sq ft.)
Thanks for the help.