So I did some research and I found a setup on the ranger station that I like a lot! It's something Ive been trying to do because I still use one of the seats for passengers. I've already started by removing the drivers rear seat and tucked in all of the wires. I've just got to build the box. What's your set up feel free to post your ideas!

I'm posting from my phone so I will post a picture of what I want to do at a later point............. I am running a Kenwood kdc-136 with no name 5x7 3ways front and rear, 600w Sony Xplod amp, and a 10 inch sub....not sure of the name on the sub lol!

 

i was thinking something close to this i want to take out the jumper seat behind the drivers seat and build a box that fits in the opening for a 10" sub and put my amp on the back wall but i havent got the measurements for the opening have you found them yet?

 

Nobody wants to sit back there anyways.

 

i mad mine almost theif proof i have a extended cab 2 door

 

 

OK so first thing first! One you need to know how much your 10 can handle (peak and RMS watts) if your running an amp thats putting out a little more than your 10 can take you want to run a sealed box. If not then you need to build a ported box if you have the tools and feel like its some thing you can handle. When building a box ALWAYS use MDF for your 10 you can get away with using 1/2" MDF if its not a high end 10 if it is use 3/4". If you can i would never mount your amp to your box I know you see a lot of people doing just that but I have built competition grade car audio systems and have never done it. Its one way to ruin your amp. Second if your running a lot of amps in your system use o Gage for the power and ground cables I know its hard to work with and hide but it will be worth it when your amp don't dim your lights when it hits because smaller wire wont feed the amp what it needs so the amp will just suck up the rest and starve your system. There really is a lot to building a car audio system the right way and you can hit me up any time you have a question. and if you want send me a pic of the magnet on your 10 and the front and I can help you figure out what it is and how much it can handle!

 

only one thing wrong with what your saying.

it will be worth it when your amp don't dim your lights when it hits because smaller wire wont feed the amp what it needs



thats not true at all, you lights dim from power surge that your power regulator doesnt have time to respond to. upgrading to a deep cycle battery will help this alot, as well as running a capacitor, or a more efficient amp. I personally LOVE clarion products. my 12" clarion is LOUD

a 10" sub shouldnt need more the 2 guage, but if you plan to upgrade you may as well run zero. Im running 1000Watt cable. were not sure what my amp puts out, shes been modified a bit.

 

I have a MA audio skate Bord 4000 watt amp 2 RE 2500 watt 12s and have built a lot of competition grade systems and when you run smaller gage cable it doesn't feed enough power to the amp. Its the same as any wiring in anything the more power it needs the bigger wire you need to run! I know that every one has there own way of doing things and thats the way I do it and will always do it. O and just because its only a 10 dont mean a lot JL audio has a 10 that if you ran only 2 gage it would melt it and set your system on fire! I have seen systems running only 10s that would stop your heart!! I know the system I have I wont put in my little Ranger because it would easly stop my heart and trust me if you think thats just some myth your wrong because any thing hitting that hard that close to your heart will stop it!

 

and yes your right about the deep cycle battery and cap but if your dont have those things or plan on going bigger down the road its always better to have it already there! and look im not saying you have to run 0 gage but if your gonna be running 1000 watts + its a good idea to run big gage wire just for the safty of it. a 1000 watts is a lot of power and can easy turn your system into one that turns a lot of heads in the right box!! its not how much power you have its how you build and port your box.

 

4 Gauge Power Series Amplifier Installation Kit
1600W
17-Ft, 4-Gauge, Translucent Red Linkflex Power Cable
17-Ft Jamming Rca Cable
3-Ft, 4-Gauge, Black Linkflex Ground Cable
17-Ft, 18-Gauge, Blue Remote Wire

 

Yeah you can find all kinds of kits for car audio but go to a sound competition and see what there running!! there wont be a car there thats got a installation kit its all custom installs again I'm not saying you have to run 0 gage when you install your amp but when you have a amp thats putting out 4000 watts your running o gage! The next time you can go to a car audio competition go and talk to them the guys who build for pure performance never just run whats good enough to get buy they run the best to get the best! Just like building boxes for all speakers not just your subs, if you really want the best from your speakers box every speaker in your system (minus your tweeters) witch means you never use anything but component speakers so you can truly seal your speaker. There is a lot more to car audio than just putting subs in a box and throwing the box in what ever area you can get it in. I know everyone has there own way of doing things and I was tough that whats good enough to work don't always mean thats what you should do. Again its not something you have you use but install kits are made to make it easy for anyone to do them selfs. You should do it the way you want I was just answering a question on a post if you think 8 gage will work use it!

 

But for the setup they are talking about, 8gauge would be JUST fine. Of course competition they use 0 gauge, along with multiple batteries, capacitors and muilti amps per sub. Not a single 10" and 600watt PEAK amp

 

Yeah I know but look at what I said ! I said "if your running a lot of amps in your system use 0 gage" I was just giving him some tips I didn't say he should use it for his set up.

 

Yes I did read that. But they still don't need to over kill.. Save a few bucks. (unless they plan to expand soon after..)

Not trying to argue with you, just simply implying no need to Overdue it, as most car audio installers always do.

 

I know but your the second post saying he doesn't need 0 gage for his system and your right but if he thinks he will want more at a later point (and most do) he might want to all I was doing was giving him a few things to think about a few ideas is what he wanted not a post about when you should or shouldn't use 0 gage. I know most installers can go way over Bord and I don't want him spending money on things he will never need just letting him know some of the ends and outs of car audio.

 

Pro audio installer.. lol

 

Nice !!! I would love to help with that build! Post some pics when you get it all done.

 

thats not mine lol

 

O **** OK lol I though you was saying you was doing the install on that ! But anyway lets give Rangerman94 his post back so he can get the info he is looking for. Sorry for hijacking your post !!