headlights dim when bass hits?
#1
headlights dim when bass hits?
Okay so ive been running the same system in all my vehicles including other ranger and ive never had this happen so i dont get it im using 1000mono pioneer with 2 mtx subs and its not set on the max and its still doing this i know i only use a 60amp fuse so i cant be using anymore than that and i used to get by on 30amp inline fuses but i would everyonce in a while blow one so i upgraded my wire gauge and the inline fuse to a 60 on my last ranger and everything worked great no headlight diming or anything but now with my new ranger last night it started doing it so how do i determine what the problem is
#2
Well it HAS to be the amp drawing that current. It wasn't allowed to take 30A before, and now it is drawing more. The factory alternator is only rated for 95 amps, and that isn't what you'll be putting out at idle.
I have an optima, 240A alternator, and 1/0 wiring and I still get dimming.
I have an optima, 240A alternator, and 1/0 wiring and I still get dimming.
#4
#6
That's what I was planning on but it's weird I have this exact system in my other ranger 05 2.3l single cab and I took it out and put it in my new truck and now I'm having this issue I was gunna chane the alternator out first, I'm only running a 1000watt with two 10s and I'm not pushing them that hard it's just weird to me I'm a electrician so I'm gunna test it and see what it's actually pulling where on the alternator can I find the label that says what it puts out ?
#7
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Must be the electrical system in the new ranger isn't up to the level of the old one.
A new battery, a high output alternator, new power and ground cables will help and maybe eliminate the problem but the capacitor should be added too.
A capacitor stores power and let's it go when the amp needs it, not all the time just when asked for it by the amp. It will help the amp cycle the power it needs to bring in the lows as needed and actually reduce the overall power consumption from the electrical system, so me do all of the electrical system upgrade, the wiring w/ground wires and add the cap.
All will live long and prosper.
.
A new battery, a high output alternator, new power and ground cables will help and maybe eliminate the problem but the capacitor should be added too.
A capacitor stores power and let's it go when the amp needs it, not all the time just when asked for it by the amp. It will help the amp cycle the power it needs to bring in the lows as needed and actually reduce the overall power consumption from the electrical system, so me do all of the electrical system upgrade, the wiring w/ground wires and add the cap.
All will live long and prosper.
.
#8
Must be the electrical system in the new ranger isn't up to the level of the old one.
A new battery, a high output alternator, new power and ground cables will help and maybe eliminate the problem but the capacitor should be added too.
A capacitor stores power and let's it go when the amp needs it, not all the time just when asked for it by the amp. It will help the amp cycle the power it needs to bring in the lows as needed and actually reduce the overall power consumption from the electrical system, so me do all of the electrical system upgrade, the wiring w/ground wires and add the cap.
All will live long and prosper.
.
A new battery, a high output alternator, new power and ground cables will help and maybe eliminate the problem but the capacitor should be added too.
A capacitor stores power and let's it go when the amp needs it, not all the time just when asked for it by the amp. It will help the amp cycle the power it needs to bring in the lows as needed and actually reduce the overall power consumption from the electrical system, so me do all of the electrical system upgrade, the wiring w/ground wires and add the cap.
All will live long and prosper.
.
#9
that should be plenty im still working on figuring this out i dont see how before i never had dimming and now i do with the same set up exactly so im thinking it has to do with maybe grounding but ill find out, when i tested it today it was only pulling 10-15 amps at the most on my sub wire but im gunna try testing it again
Last edited by boyd_835; 02-10-2013 at 01:59 PM.
#11
ya i already re did the grounds so im good there i sand blasted the bolt i grounded top and considering its like a 18mm that's a lot of surface haha so im good there but i might run a extra ground from the body/frame to the engine and from the battery the body/frame just to make sure it wouldn't hurt plus i have some left over wire so we'll see how that goes
#12
#13
#16
Okay so I haven't done all my big three but I fixed all my grounding just gotta finish the rest so far headlights are still dimming what's a good place to run the ground for the frame ? Most the examples of big 3 kits I found used the strut tower on a car but obviously we don't have that option
#17
headlights are dimming because there is a sudden surge of draw to the battery. you can either got something like a yellow top optima, or a capacitor. They hold a charge so when it hits, it draws form the cap and you dont dim your lights or other things.
a capacitor will solve your issue. if your an electrician you should know these things.
a capacitor will solve your issue. if your an electrician you should know these things.
#18
Yes but capacitors are a cheating way might as well just spend the money and upgrade the electrical system alternator and battery. But after having this setup in my other ranger and not having this issue makes me think that this can be fixed without upgrading and spend 500 bucks and better stuff
#19
capacitors reduce headlight dimming because they limit current to the amp from the alternator. In theory, it should provide the extra current needed from what it has stored, but in reality, the constant recharging and discharge will cause more voltage fluctuation on the amp. In a car audio system with limited available current you're just adding an extra device putting a load on the alternator. They're only really viable for home audio stereos and such (which have capacitors in them) where you have basically unlimited current.
#22
#24
Turn the dial up and down while playing bass heavy music or test tones loudly. Stop at the point where you can hear it cutting out some of the bass then back it down slightly. or at the point where it prevents your sub from bottoming out. basically just use your ears and pay attention to the sound your sub is making. if it does not sound right try to cut the bass from it so that it does. It should sound effortless and clean if that makes any sense.
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