Help me brainstorm on Sub box design options... - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Audio & Video Tech General discussion of audio and video for the Ford Ranger.

View Poll Results: Which one do you like best?
A 1 11.11%
B 2 22.22%
C 2 22.22%
D 4 44.44%
E 0 0%
Other (I've posted a better design) 0 0%
Voters: 9. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 10-08-2004
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http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mksunl...bAf3BB5KZ3U5d6

Please visit the link above to help me choose a design and feel free to critique my sketches. It's not exactly to scale or anything, just rough ideas. All of them are designed to straddle the driveshaft hump except for E which will be just on one side. The whole idea is to have the front seat be able to recline all the way, and still have a practical storage area in the rear.

The black areas are port openings, but I haven't decided to go sealed or not. I want big sound, but don't want it to sound like ***.
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  #2  
Old 10-08-2004
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Dude.. I'd go with either C, D, or E... i like C's design, but it doenst look space saving. I was assuming you'd want space back there, so i picked D sinse it looked most compact.. E also looks pretty good sinse it'll take up either the left or right side, and not the center, cutting down on space behind both seats... what kind of sub are you putting in there also, what size???? anyways.. they look pretty straight forward, and any of those 3 would probably work out best!!!
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  #3  
Old 10-08-2004
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Well the idea behind A was to optimize airspace "behind" the subwoofer since it fires down. It was also to give it good airspace to either side. It could turn out more square than rectangular.

D is more of just a cube. The port doesn't have to be included, just trying to get a good design for a ported box (vent firing forward, sub downward).

With all designs I was still picturing the jump seats usable, but obviously a bit more cramped than before. Nobody but teenage brother and sister in laws would ever sit back there.

Sub is a 800W RMS Audiobahn 12" sub. Dub 1200 model. Powered by a 950W MTX 801D Amp. Put it this way, it shook the headliner and wires in the doors in my previous wiring cab. And that was with a box that was like 8" x 12" x 48". Way too shallow to show the subs full potential.

The book recommends .05 to 1.5 cubic feet in a sealed enclosure. 2.3 to 3.7 for a ported.

I was also thinking of a box design in which the basket was on the outside. It's big and chrome, and would run cooler if I did it that way, but I don't know how to make a MDF box that would work best with that.
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  #4  
Old 10-09-2004
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I was browsing the web last night and saw this sub box...I think it is one of the nicest I've seen...if you have fiberglass experience you may want to try something like this. Just giving an idea.

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  #5  
Old 10-09-2004
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thats a really nice box.. i like how clean the install looks too... no wiring to be seen, and the carpeting is nice and factory looking. i dont like why they kept the jump seats there tho!!! to build a box that nice, why not go ahead, remove the jump seats and take the carpet all the way back?? anyway tho, that box is nice, nicer if it were ported tho!
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  #6  
Old 10-09-2004
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in 2 weeks i can show you my newq box design... it is nothing fancy... ported box with the 15" aluminum eclipse on one side and the port on the other.. downfiring and takes up the whole backseat to the rear window and is angled for the seats to go all the way back and recline... the memphis 1100 watt amp i am using will be flush in the box and the top will be flat so i can still put my guns and stuff back there when i go hunting... and clothes or backpacks or whatever...

i figure that is a safe design.. no one can see what i have back there and it isn't going to get stolen.... hopefully...
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  #7  
Old 10-12-2004
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Hmmm./ Not many people liked my A and C design. The purpose behind that shape was to place more usable airspace "behind" the sub, instead of on the side. Plus it would retain more floor space for the occasional duffle bag or lunch bag.

Cmon only 5 votes? That's PITIFUL.
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  #8  
Old 10-12-2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone_Ranger01
I was browsing the web last night and saw this sub box...I think it is one of the nicest I've seen...if you have fiberglass experience you may want to try something like this. Just giving an idea.


I like it too, although maybe more practical for a full-size truck, no?

Its a great design. 8)
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  #9  
Old 10-12-2004
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That box is really nice but the Jump seats are kinda useless... When i get my act together im gonig to build a box but im still thinking about removing the jump seats...also cant you mount the amps under the passenger or driver seats without venting problems?
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  #10  
Old 10-12-2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aftermarket
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone_Ranger01
I was browsing the web last night and saw this sub box...I think it is one of the nicest I've seen...if you have fiberglass experience you may want to try something like this. Just giving an idea.


I like it too, although maybe more practical for a full-size truck, no?

Its a great design. 8)

That box is in a Ranger
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  #11  
Old 10-12-2004
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It would look a lot nicer if not so deep, and a little bit wider.
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  #12  
Old 10-12-2004
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i say, build a, for the airspace, and make it look nice...




Build a B, and i can buy it from you...I reeally need one!!! PLEASEEE!!!!!
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  #13  
Old 10-12-2004
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GETTIN A FLOW

D is the BEST design because as someone else said there is more air bhind the speaker.
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  #14  
Old 10-19-2004
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I said that lol... :)

Ok, I'm going with something a bit different.

I want it down firing, and was curious as to how much airspace should be between the cone (at "neutral") and the floor. I'm putting a hair under 4 inches of space, so I hope that's enough. The grill is about 2 inches deep.

Also my gasket is kinda toast. Haven't checked the local shops to see if I could get a replacement, but wouldn't silicone be a suitable replacement? Just gotta be airtight I know...

Well got my 1/0 gauge kit in on Monday. Came with a sweet 200 amp ANL fuse. Today I installed all my Polk speakers and installed the Alpine head unit. Man o man, it's good to have aftermarket stuff back in there. The amount of fidelity improvement is amazing.

I have yet to install 2 amps, wiring kit, and new speaker wire yet. All I need is some RCA cables, and 2 switches and I will be set.



The box is made to fit behind my driver seat. It should let me recline a almost all the way. The question is, is downfiring the best way to mount it? I mean, it looks more efficient of a box if it's mounted on the incline with the sound traveling directly backwards into the back corner of the box. With downfiring, it would be reflected against the incline and then hit the rear wall at a perpendicular angle.

I've all but decided to just keep the bottom flat. At first I was gonna have mold the box around the ledge, but I think I'll need that space if it's downfiring.
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  #15  
Old 10-19-2004
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Hey Michael, remeber what we were talkin about, Bottom left corner...
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  #16  
Old 10-19-2004
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Woah, just did calculations on airspace, and it's 2.22 cubic feet. I only need 1.43 cubic feet, at least that what's the audiobahn techs told me I needed. They said 1.25 for sealed, and the extra .18 is the subwoofer's volume. Hmmm...

Yeah, leo, I know that's what you wanted, but I'm just playing with designs....

And I had to put my avater in there so Cardomain wouldn't reject the picture.
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  #17  
Old 10-19-2004
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Mmmm...... 1/0 gauge!



Probably more than I need, but I'd rather have a kit that will work with any future upgrades....

I'm going insane with this install. 1/0 Gauge to JL distribution box. Two 4 gauge wires to sub amp, and one four gauge, or maybe two 8 gauge to my 4 channel amplifier. Why not....
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  #18  
Old 10-29-2004
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Ok, I'm sold on the downfiring boxes. All I can say is this is MUCH improved over the same setup I had sandwiched into a regular cab.

Overall, I would guess an improvement of around 3 to 9 dB. I think most of it is from the 1/0 gauge cable I used to give a quite large pathway from my battery to my amplifier. I used 8 gauge wire as speaker wire, and kept that length to a minumum.

Luckily no major vibrations in the cab, except my seat is a little screwed up. It must not be bolted down right because it'll rock just a hair when I start or stop. I know the bolts are down tight, so it must be an alignment issue.

This weekend I'll finish wiring up the 4 channel amplifier and call it quits for a while.

Damn it feels good to be a gangsta! :) (office space)
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  #19  
Old 10-29-2004
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lol Michael, i envy you right now!!! i love installing systems, but sadly havent had to do one in the past month or so... i finally talked my friend into powering his speakers, so sometime this weekend, i get to run the wiring for the amp, and larger better wiring for the speakers! i must sound like some sort of dork right now, but oh well.. i love to install!

anyway, it sounds like its goin good so far!!!! btw, what kind of subs and speakers and amps are you running???
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  #20  
Old 10-30-2004
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In the doors, 4 polk audio 6x8" EX368 coax. (Currently running off the head unit, ~25W RMS)
12" Audiobahn DUB 1200 750W RMS (I'm giving it around 950 W RMS)

I got the 4 channel amp wired for power and all, just no RCAs to it, or speaker wire hooked up yet. That'll be done sometime soon.
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  #21  
Old 10-30-2004
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you can come install a system for me any time... but the only other thing id ask of you would be an amp and sub... and a cd player lol
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