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  #1  
Old 11-01-2006
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my new system plans...

edit: this amp

two of those subs

two of these boxes mounted in place where rear seats are

this install kit

i have this receiver

two of these sub guards

and i have Kenwood 3 ways in doors(they are discontinued but are extremely nice)

what do yall think? i havent bought any of the sub stuff yet. i plan on removied my rear seats and jack then install some of the box where the seats should be. then put some carpeted(color matched to box) wood between the floor and bottom of the box to support it(will look like it came like that, sorta. lol). then either install the amp where the jack should be on the back wall or on the floor hump-thing. wall mount:i want to put a piece of wood between the boxes to cover up the plastic mounting crap for the jack and cover and mount the amp to that. and prolly cover it in carpet too or just paint but probably carpet. also going to put blue lighting under my seats. then with my new dash blue LEDs...gonna be slick i think. ideas? comments? changes? any feedback would be nice since this is my first major mod and largest purchase thus far.

Last edited by Jackal_v01; 11-06-2006 at 03:52 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2006
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With this amp,

two of these subs,

two of these boxes in place of your rear seats,

this install kit,

this reciever,

and these sub gaurds you should have a very sweet *** system.
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  #3  
Old 11-01-2006
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That amp is super not enough to power those subs correctly. To do it right i'd get one of those amps for each sub.
It'll work though.
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  #4  
Old 11-01-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rideac1
That amp is super not enough to power those subs correctly. To do it right i'd get one of those amps for each sub.
It'll work though.
^^^^.....no kidding....they will take a lot more power than that.....
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  #5  
Old 11-01-2006
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really? i've had three other guys check it out. and actually I wasnt even the one who built it. my bestfriend has two 12s and just an older model of my amp and it hits really hard. 300w+ per sub bridged not enough?
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  #6  
Old 11-01-2006
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oh and thanks mudranger for making it purty like that. i wasnt sure how to do it
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  #7  
Old 11-01-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackal_v01
really? i've had three other guys check it out. and actually I wasnt even the one who built it. my bestfriend has two 12s and just an older model of my amp and it hits really hard. 300w+ per sub bridged not enough?
It's not going to be 300+ per sub. The setup you can use with those subs and amp is going to be to wire the subs at 4ohms each and run them x2 off of the amp at 110 RMS each.
And you can't bridge them. The amp is at 4ohms bridged but the subs will be at 0 or 2 ohms...that doesn't work.
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  #8  
Old 11-01-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackal_v01
really? i've had three other guys check it out. and actually I wasnt even the one who built it. my bestfriend has two 12s and just an older model of my amp and it hits really hard. 300w+ per sub bridged not enough?
when you bridge an amp and try to run 2 subs, it not only pulls the ohms down, but it also divides the power to both subs....so if your amp was 300 watts bridged, then when you run 2 subs, it will be pushing 150 watts to each amp.....

subs are always a little under rated at what they can actually handle......you need to match a sub to an amp that will push a rated RMS value right at the subs rated or just a little over it.............you can always turn an amp down, but you can only turn them up so much....
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  #9  
Old 11-01-2006
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  #10  
Old 11-01-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fletch12518

Not saying that this is a awsome brand! the reviews are great. But this should be in your price range. something just to look at. I have never owned this brand.
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  #11  
Old 11-01-2006
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another thing to remember is that you have to get an amp based on what kind of ohms the sub will make..........amps are rated different....a 4 ohm amp will more than lilely push less power than a 2 ohm stable amp..........you have to determine which way you are going to wire your subs, then figure out how many ohms both of the wired together will make and them find an amp that is rated at the correct wattage and has the correct ohms...
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  #12  
Old 11-01-2006
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Check out Hifonics amps, they're real decent for the price. Most of the class D's can run down to 1ohms, which is awesome.
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  #13  
Old 11-01-2006
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I just have pretty much hear my system except in a 12" sub version and it sounds badass. i am only getting 10s because i cannot fit anything else with what i want to do. 2 car audio pros(been doing for years with shops and their own systems that i have heard) and they say it will be badass and will hit hard. not saying y'all are wrong or i dont appreciate your input(because i asked anyway LOL)but i have heard it before(not just on that other system with 12s) and it should hit pretty nicely. i still have a couple weeks to shop around and plan, however :)

so then what wattages/amp specs do i need to be looking at??

something like this??
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2524.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7699.html

i jsut wonder why those are so cheap? old model, new ones coming in?

Last edited by Jackal_v01; 11-01-2006 at 12:19 PM.
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  #14  
Old 11-01-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
when you bridge an amp and try to run 2 subs, it not only pulls the ohms down, but it also divides the power to both subs....so if your amp was 300 watts bridged, then when you run 2 subs, it will be pushing 150 watts to each amp.....

subs are always a little under rated at what they can actually handle......you need to match a sub to an amp that will push a rated RMS value right at the subs rated or just a little over it.............you can always turn an amp down, but you can only turn them up so much....
the sub will be 750 bridged. 350 x 2 channel...bridged will be double that which will be 750 not 300.
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  #15  
Old 11-01-2006
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check out this amp

http://www.millionbuy.com/rocp6002.html

its cheaper and it'll power those subs perfect, plus they are known to be a lil underrated, also try cardomains 105% price matching and you might be able to save a few bucks.
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  #16  
Old 11-01-2006
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hahaha i have 2 12'' kick CVRs just like that but i got them both in a ported box... idk wut amp that is up, i got 400/2watts Kick amp ... those subs freakin kick!
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2006
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i found a couple other amps on soundelectronix.com but i am still pretty much going to stick with my current setup. this is why i dont agree with the previous posts about this not being enough: my friend has a Kicker 300.2 bridged to two MTX 12"s. he is pushing 300 watts per sub and it hits pretty flippin hard. i'm not trying to rattle my truck until the screws and bolts fall out but i want it to hit hard enough to turn some heads. my friend right now turns heads so i am pretty sure mine will as well. i am trying to keep everything kicker because they are pretty much my favorite car audio company right next to pioneer. i found an older 450.2 kicker amp for 259 on that website but its a little out of my range because then the wiring kit i would get is 120 and that would be my total closer to 700 and i am trying to keep between 500-600.
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2006
quest51210
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a TC Sounds or RL-i 8" Sub in a 6th order bandpass off of 400watts of power will bury 2-12" CVR's in a prefab ported box off the same power.
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  #19  
Old 11-02-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackal_v01
i found a couple other amps on soundelectronix.com but i am still pretty much going to stick with my current setup. this is why i dont agree with the previous posts about this not being enough: my friend has a Kicker 300.2 bridged to two MTX 12"s. he is pushing 300 watts per sub and it hits pretty flippin hard. i'm not trying to rattle my truck until the screws and bolts fall out but i want it to hit hard enough to turn some heads. my friend right now turns heads so i am pretty sure mine will as well. i am trying to keep everything kicker because they are pretty much my favorite car audio company right next to pioneer. i found an older 450.2 kicker amp for 259 on that website but its a little out of my range because then the wiring kit i would get is 120 and that would be my total closer to 700 and i am trying to keep between 500-600.
...he can't be pushing 300 watts per sub if the amp only puts out 300 total, if he has 2 subs as in your setup.
If you put 300 to each sub it'd be perfect.
The subs are to be wired at 4ohms if wired separately (i'm pretty sure they're dual 2ohm coils), or 2ohms if wired in parallel with each other. Find an amp that has ~300 W x2 @ 4ohms OR ~600 W x1 at 2ohms (RMS).
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  #20  
Old 11-02-2006
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but there is no possible way it is only pushing at max 150 per sub. plus note...crutchfield just notified me that my subs are now buy one get one free eventhough we already bought them so tehy are refunding me 70 bucks. now i'll be able to get a slightly bigger amp. i found a 450.2 kicker amp for 259 on sale at audioelectronix. i have to get a bigger wiring harness but thats ok.

Last edited by Jackal_v01; 11-02-2006 at 12:56 PM.
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  #21  
Old 11-03-2006
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The one thing I noticed, is that if want to run a 2-channel amp you need to dual 4 ohm subs. If you plan on running a mono amp, stay with the dual 2 ohm subs.

The amp I suggest for dual 4 ohm subs is the Kicker ZX550.2 (550 watts x 1 at 4 ohm), for dual 2 ohm subs is the Kicker ZX750.1 (750 watts x 1 at 2 ohm)

If you want Kicker, that is.
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  #22  
Old 11-03-2006
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I had 1 of those subs, a sealed box, and a clarion 350 x 1 at 2 ohms and it pounded, running 2 you will need a beafier amp than that....

You dont have to have a class D amp to run those, they are what 600 watt rms? Kicker stuff is the best i think....They run higher than what thier watts say they do...say the amp says 300 watts per channel they run about 400, unlike sony where they say its 1000 watts per channel and its really only 150-200....

Rocky
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  #23  
Old 11-03-2006
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ok heres the deal....thats 350.2 is not what your looking for...that amp was designed for two primary reasons. 1) to push a pair of speakers at 4 ohmns giving a grand total of 175 watts between the two speakers. this is because the amp ratings you see on your link are given at 2 ohmns.. door speakers in general run on 4 ohms. for those two subs i would recomend the kicker 750.1 .... its a very durable amp and will supply you with more than enough power. the subs are a very good choice, since they are a DVC sub you have no trouble running a mono amp on two subs... ok the next thing is your wiring kit, its an 8 ag and you need atleast a 4ga kit.... after that you should be set... the only additional parts would be a 1.2 farad cap and possible battery upgrade
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  #24  
Old 11-04-2006
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i'm getting a 450.2 amp. it will be enough. my friend has a 300.2 pushing two mtx 12"s and it rattles his gmc 1500.i dont need numbers and part numbers; i've heard what will work and what does work and his 300.2 bridged to two 12"s rattles his truck.
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  #25  
Old 11-06-2006
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the boxes, now...

so now what about those boxes? what do yall think? sealed. i plan to mount them where my rear seats should be and still have about 3-4 inches between the back of my seat and the front of the box. then amp and cap will go where the jack and cover would be. are those boxes big enough? friends tell me yes. enough cubic feet?
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