ok first off i have no cluce on stereo systems. i have always had them stock, but now my speakers are getting bad and i want to redo it. is this setup ok, if not is there anyother kits or is it better to buy it in pieces. i like bass but dont really care to rattle the whole neighborhood. i dont care to have the most fancy system out there just something nice. thanks for the help

http://cgi.ebay.com/FORD-RANGER-96-U...QQcmdZViewItem

 

I would just get 4 3-way speakers and then just a 10" sub or so with a amp. 2 subs is massive overkill for our trucks.

 

the subs r ok but u might wana get somthing bigger than a 300 watt i mean i have a single 800 hooked to 1 10 and i dont rattle the neiborhood but it sounds good just my opinion go with somthin bigger than 300 watt

 

what do you guys think of this setup. i just got get the wire kit

this sub ( it looks like the same one) was givin to me, but never herd of them and dont know how good they are.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Pair-600W-12...742.m153.l1262



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEGAC...em170207380505

 

My rule of thumb is to only go with well known brands, that way you know you'll be getting quality.

 

Honestly, I think you wouldve done better with the kickers at the top. Part of putting together a good clean and loud sound system is matching the abilities and ratings of your components.

 

Personally i would buy a more capable sub and under-power it with a smaller amp. that way you can always upgrade and make it louder. and dont go for that wannabe japan knock-off s***. remember.......you get wat you pay for.

best suggestion........ get an(1) Alpine Type-S or Type-R. 10'' or 12'' and a good but cheap amp like Kicker or Rockford Fosgate.

depending on the sub...... find an amp that is capable of hitting the RMS of the sub. not the PEAK.

 

thanks guys for the help. i got a stupid question whats the bottle looking thing that some of you guys have with your system. is that something important to? sorry for the stupid questions, when it comes to electronics im dumber than a post.

 

Capacitor is what your talking about, it all depends on how many watts your system uses if you need one or not. Thats about all i know though.

 

its a Capacitor. Your alternator produces a pulse through the wires. the capacitor collects them and sends a steady stream of electricity to the amp. also helps your system from drawing too much power and making your headlights and everything else go dim.

 

you dont really need a cap as long as you have a good battery but the biggest rule is dont underpower your subs with a small amp you will blow a sub faster under powering them then overpowering them

 

are you serious???

 

I think he is. I never heard of somebody blowing a sub by underpowering it.

A Cap helps when your lights flicker, if they do it mildly, a cap might help but the best way to fix that is a bigger alternator but a cap is a cheap fix for a minor issue!

 

i was commenting on under powering a sub can blow it faster. i wish i would have wore my boots cause im walkin in some bull $h**.

 

The only way under powering a sub can blow it is by fully maxing out the amp and having S*** loads of distotion and power surges, then it wears out the sub faster. Over powering it will simply blow it up. Unless you run maxed out constantly, under powering a sub is safer. But if you run maxed out constantly, you'll prolly blow it by overpowering sooner. either way, in a ranger you'll go deaf. Like me. the only truely safe way, is to match your subs and amp, but in a pinch, go small on the amp, not the sub.

 

BTW, the main point of a cap is faster respose. You put it as close to the amp as possble so that the cap can deliver and instant pulse to the amp, faster than the bat, 12' of cable and the alternator can respond. keeps the amp from starving.

 

the way that under powering will kill a sub is that when the sub goes to hit it needs power to push it forward and back, when there is not enough power the coil will get off balance and "lag" behind causing more stress on all the moving parts. basically when it pushes forward it does not have enough power to pull back before it hits again.

 

I myself would stay away from Linear amps and perhaps the subs as well. My hesitation has to deal with their performance rating system. See, they claim it is rated at 800W. While one could be confused into thinking that it is 800W RMS, they actually rate it on a scale at 800W ILS. As in, this amp will produce 800W If Lightning Strikes it.

I'm sure the amp will power many a different sub in several different configurations. However, I just don't think that it will consistently produce the wattage mentioned, and I don't think it will do it CLEANLY, which is the thing that I require.

Granted, the Power Coustic I have is no great shakes, but it sounds good for a sub amp and closely matches the load I put on it (plus it was free...) so it will do for quite a while.

Also, while not a certified electrical engineer myself, I have heard rumblings in the past of subs where the magnets were actually cracked from being 'starved.' Again, I can't confirm this myself, but if you are way lower than the recommended power range for the sub, that can't be a good thing.

Just my $0.02,

-Chance

 

overpowering will not blow it up i had a fosgate 10 in my truck rated at 150rms and my amp does 360 rms u just need to set ur gains right aka no distortion headroom is great for speakers beacause when u have gains turned down the speaker will be receiving clean power

 

Over powering an amp WILL blow up a sub. I have 2 10 inch pioneers on a 760w max amp and it sounds great. You realy need to setup that amp to really push the sub and see if it will blow.

Normally underpowering won't mess up the sub but over heat the amp first.

 

anyone who has a clue about setting gains can send double the power to the sub....underpowering the sub with an amp whos gains are wide open will send a clipped signal too woofer= fried voice coil.......if overpowering sub just listen for distortion if you hear it back off gains