The duratec 2.3l do's and dont's and tuning
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Joined: Mar 2021
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From: Des Moines Iowa
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This engine likes to run between 255-70
at 280 the engine begins to retard ignition timing
at 295 it enters limp mode
the engine will run at 280 safely
the engine likes 89 octane best at sea level as proven from dyno tests on stock motors between 2001 and 2007
if you remove any electronics you have to (I CAN NOT STRESS ENOUGH) place in a form of resistance otherwise idle will increase and everything else like injector will increase witch will cause damage
the engine performs the best with 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-20 in the winter
if you plan to run 4000 rpm+ only use Royal purple 5w20-15w-40 or shell rotella 15w-40 ( in order to run the shell oil you must remove the cats and EGR no exceptions)
this motor likes oil changes every 3800-4200 miles
this motor will push 65 psi oil starting at 4600 do not be afraid to rev this motor
this motor will comfortably rev to 7300 and make power there redline stock is 7500 (7100 for non forged crank models)
the motor will produce with boost at 4800 281hp and 304lbs torque or 313hp at 6800rpm with 17 psi (with valve springs and eagle rods, do not go over that level until pistons are forged)
the motor on 5 psi will make an extra 60 hp and 55-75lbs torque depending on rpm boost band
do not exceed 80 shot of nitrous wet or dry period on stock internals regardless of the forged or cast crank the pistons and rods are the weak points
4.10 to 4.88 allow for the best performance 3.55 is perfect for fuel econemy as mpg does not start to get massively harmed until 2700 rpm
peak torque stock is at 4750 rpm
peak hp is at 5400 rpm
do not put a cold air intake
cut up the stock box and run straight tubing to the intake, make sure to add a vacuum can or bottle or you WILL have idle and stalling issues
Run a 4l v6 rad if you plan to run past 3500 rpm + or towing
DO NOT LET IT RUN OUT OF OIL OR YOUR CHAIN CAN LOCK OR CREATE PRESSURE AND IF YOUR CAM(S) STOP YOUR ENGINE WILL BLOW UP IT IS AN INTERFERENCE DESIGN AND IS 9.7:1 COMP STOCK, will be a massive bang
The stock injectors are 24LB/HR and are good for about 335hp
the stock maf is good for about 365 hp
the intake manifold once the runner flaps are deleted will allow for 280 hp or 215 hp N/A
Look at 08+ 2.0 miatas for ranger parts most work
Perfect throttle body size is 62mm after that its all throttle response and no gain
Run = diameter pipes from the air box (can port out) to the throttle body
Make sure you have a 1.25" larger 6" long section that drops back down to the respective intake size as this will save you on more stalling problems
the ranger stock exhaust is fine up to 225 hp after that it will crack and you loose power this motor relies on having clean flow
perfect size exhaust for NA is 2.5" to 2.75"
Having custom fabbed 2 to 1 header is a huge gain by having it run as true duals with an H pipe for low end torque and x pipe for topend (ford 300 cid efi manifolds are a perfect example)
Wrap the exhaust and shield the engine bay from the heat, lower temps means the engine will be more efficient and require less gas for the same power
unplug the battery with the crank position sensor placed as high as possible, re plug the battery after an hour and run the engine, then move the crank position sensor as far down as possible witch will net you 38 degrees total timing and 20 degrees base timing witch this motor likes
you can make a lot of power by just moving the intake and exhaust cam degrees, 40 degrees is the max before you have piston to valve issues, make sure to slowly crank the engine to keep tolerances in check, if the piston bumps a valve while rotating by hand move cam back 3 degrees ( my ranger has 40 degrees total overlap and has 11.8:1 compression when at high rpm, unfortunately 1500 and below torque is non existent)
doing this will require you to run a vacuum pump in order to run brakes ad AC
assuming you modified the cams im assuming you have 0 back pressure or gutted cats and zero emissions tech otherwise your missing out on about 15-20 hp
The duratec 2.3l injectors are good up to 8300 rpm where the duratec stops making power with all then necessary internals and tuning
the stock ecm is tunable using the quarter horse for 2004 and older, on 05 up youll need to use sct x4 flasher
putting a 2.5l duratec head on and deleting the vct will allow for better throttle response and if ported and polished an increase in 3-8hp
the perfect afr for fuel economy on this motor is 14.9:1 idle and mild bumps to 2000 rpm then point .2 bumps below so normal would be 13.8 so youll bump to 14.0, this will net better economy at the expense of hp and torque
try and keep afr at 13.8 through the band til redline, if you modify the cam timing you can bring afr to 13.2
run stock copper plugs for the best economy or platnum colder plugs when running top end
run 2 or 3 steps colder when cam timing is modified to make up for the extra air flow at top end
the stock ignition is very accurate and is just fine
if you want a mild boost in performance without any tuning you can use an Aisin AMR 500 supercharger and run 2.1:1 pulley and will net maybe 2.3-3 lbs boost, make sure maf sits behind the super not before it, no need for an intercooler
anything 9 psi up will require an intercooler
dry sump oil pan will help throttle response and reduce drag on the engine
running an electric pump and using a water pump delete will reduce more drag
you can run an underdrive on the power steering and reduce even more drag
delete the entire AC
if you put around softly you can get away with 5-6k oil changes
racing it or towing just as a reminder will need 3500-4500 oil changes
meth injection is a plus for 30 hp after that the computer will not compensate anymore (hence the amr 500 being a viable option)
if you change the cam timing remove the cam position sensor or you'll hit a no start situation due to gas going out the exhaust
focus stage 1 cams will work on the ranger stock but you must retard the intake 12 degrees still delete the cam sensor
burton power uk is your friend for ranger performance under the escort section of duratec like true long tube headers
https://www.amazon.com/Refurbished-S...s%2C247&sr=8-3
https://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by...oduct_area=591
any questions regarding the duratec 2.3 can be asked here if this can maybe have this stickied as these are some of the big things for the ranger motor that i have found
at 280 the engine begins to retard ignition timing
at 295 it enters limp mode
the engine will run at 280 safely
the engine likes 89 octane best at sea level as proven from dyno tests on stock motors between 2001 and 2007
if you remove any electronics you have to (I CAN NOT STRESS ENOUGH) place in a form of resistance otherwise idle will increase and everything else like injector will increase witch will cause damage
the engine performs the best with 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-20 in the winter
if you plan to run 4000 rpm+ only use Royal purple 5w20-15w-40 or shell rotella 15w-40 ( in order to run the shell oil you must remove the cats and EGR no exceptions)
this motor likes oil changes every 3800-4200 miles
this motor will push 65 psi oil starting at 4600 do not be afraid to rev this motor
this motor will comfortably rev to 7300 and make power there redline stock is 7500 (7100 for non forged crank models)
the motor will produce with boost at 4800 281hp and 304lbs torque or 313hp at 6800rpm with 17 psi (with valve springs and eagle rods, do not go over that level until pistons are forged)
the motor on 5 psi will make an extra 60 hp and 55-75lbs torque depending on rpm boost band
do not exceed 80 shot of nitrous wet or dry period on stock internals regardless of the forged or cast crank the pistons and rods are the weak points
4.10 to 4.88 allow for the best performance 3.55 is perfect for fuel econemy as mpg does not start to get massively harmed until 2700 rpm
peak torque stock is at 4750 rpm
peak hp is at 5400 rpm
do not put a cold air intake
cut up the stock box and run straight tubing to the intake, make sure to add a vacuum can or bottle or you WILL have idle and stalling issues
Run a 4l v6 rad if you plan to run past 3500 rpm + or towing
DO NOT LET IT RUN OUT OF OIL OR YOUR CHAIN CAN LOCK OR CREATE PRESSURE AND IF YOUR CAM(S) STOP YOUR ENGINE WILL BLOW UP IT IS AN INTERFERENCE DESIGN AND IS 9.7:1 COMP STOCK, will be a massive bang
The stock injectors are 24LB/HR and are good for about 335hp
the stock maf is good for about 365 hp
the intake manifold once the runner flaps are deleted will allow for 280 hp or 215 hp N/A
Look at 08+ 2.0 miatas for ranger parts most work
Perfect throttle body size is 62mm after that its all throttle response and no gain
Run = diameter pipes from the air box (can port out) to the throttle body
Make sure you have a 1.25" larger 6" long section that drops back down to the respective intake size as this will save you on more stalling problems
the ranger stock exhaust is fine up to 225 hp after that it will crack and you loose power this motor relies on having clean flow
perfect size exhaust for NA is 2.5" to 2.75"
Having custom fabbed 2 to 1 header is a huge gain by having it run as true duals with an H pipe for low end torque and x pipe for topend (ford 300 cid efi manifolds are a perfect example)
Wrap the exhaust and shield the engine bay from the heat, lower temps means the engine will be more efficient and require less gas for the same power
unplug the battery with the crank position sensor placed as high as possible, re plug the battery after an hour and run the engine, then move the crank position sensor as far down as possible witch will net you 38 degrees total timing and 20 degrees base timing witch this motor likes
you can make a lot of power by just moving the intake and exhaust cam degrees, 40 degrees is the max before you have piston to valve issues, make sure to slowly crank the engine to keep tolerances in check, if the piston bumps a valve while rotating by hand move cam back 3 degrees ( my ranger has 40 degrees total overlap and has 11.8:1 compression when at high rpm, unfortunately 1500 and below torque is non existent)
doing this will require you to run a vacuum pump in order to run brakes ad AC
assuming you modified the cams im assuming you have 0 back pressure or gutted cats and zero emissions tech otherwise your missing out on about 15-20 hp
The duratec 2.3l injectors are good up to 8300 rpm where the duratec stops making power with all then necessary internals and tuning
the stock ecm is tunable using the quarter horse for 2004 and older, on 05 up youll need to use sct x4 flasher
putting a 2.5l duratec head on and deleting the vct will allow for better throttle response and if ported and polished an increase in 3-8hp
the perfect afr for fuel economy on this motor is 14.9:1 idle and mild bumps to 2000 rpm then point .2 bumps below so normal would be 13.8 so youll bump to 14.0, this will net better economy at the expense of hp and torque
try and keep afr at 13.8 through the band til redline, if you modify the cam timing you can bring afr to 13.2
run stock copper plugs for the best economy or platnum colder plugs when running top end
run 2 or 3 steps colder when cam timing is modified to make up for the extra air flow at top end
the stock ignition is very accurate and is just fine
if you want a mild boost in performance without any tuning you can use an Aisin AMR 500 supercharger and run 2.1:1 pulley and will net maybe 2.3-3 lbs boost, make sure maf sits behind the super not before it, no need for an intercooler
anything 9 psi up will require an intercooler
dry sump oil pan will help throttle response and reduce drag on the engine
running an electric pump and using a water pump delete will reduce more drag
you can run an underdrive on the power steering and reduce even more drag
delete the entire AC
if you put around softly you can get away with 5-6k oil changes
racing it or towing just as a reminder will need 3500-4500 oil changes
meth injection is a plus for 30 hp after that the computer will not compensate anymore (hence the amr 500 being a viable option)
if you change the cam timing remove the cam position sensor or you'll hit a no start situation due to gas going out the exhaust
focus stage 1 cams will work on the ranger stock but you must retard the intake 12 degrees still delete the cam sensor
burton power uk is your friend for ranger performance under the escort section of duratec like true long tube headers
https://www.amazon.com/Refurbished-S...s%2C247&sr=8-3
https://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by...oduct_area=591
any questions regarding the duratec 2.3 can be asked here if this can maybe have this stickied as these are some of the big things for the ranger motor that i have found
where did you mount the supercharger?
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Joined: Dec 2018
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From: Roswell New mex
I mounted it on the ac compressor mount so that i didn't have to reinvent the wheel for mounting but im currently on a turbocharged 2.7 litres stroker dtec
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Joined: Dec 2018
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From: Roswell New mex
You can locate it anywhere in the system by running a longer belt, I did the ac delete for time and less space used up
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Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 373
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From: Roswell New mex
Keep in mind I race my ranger for national auto sport association circuit racing so ac was not an option for performance, but this motor prefers a turbo over the super, but run the 2:1 belt as max rpm if the super is 12k rpm or 6000 engine rpm
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Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
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From: Orlando, FL
I believe the AMR500 I bought comes with a 78mm pulley for 6 rib belts, so that's exactly what I need: 2:1 ratio roughly, and a pulley that will fit to the current belt, although I guess I'll have to buy a new belt if I don't do the A/C delete.
I've got a DiabloSport Predator (1) that I finally recently got working. I've only tried out the 87 Performance tune so far, but the difference has been pretty amazing so far.
The improvement in shifting quality (auto-trans on my ranger) has been insane. If you drive with a light foot, virtually all shifts are butter smooth, sometimes so much so that you literally cant feel them. And if you drive more aggressively the shifts feel much 'tighter' and firmer.
The truck also feels more 'alive' and responsive in general with the 87 tune.
Will a custom tune really be unnecessary with super low boost, like 2-3 psi?
What issues did you run into when running the AMR500 in this way?
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Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 373
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From: Roswell New mex
My goal with the AMR500 is just to give my truck more 'life' at lower RPMs with super low boost (like, literally no more than 3 psi).
I believe the AMR500 I bought comes with a 78mm pulley for 6 rib belts, so that's exactly what I need: 2:1 ratio roughly, and a pulley that will fit to the current belt, although I guess I'll have to buy a new belt if I don't do the A/C delete.
I've got a DiabloSport Predator (1) that I finally recently got working. I've only tried out the 87 Performance tune so far, but the difference has been pretty amazing so far.
The improvement in shifting quality (auto-trans on my ranger) has been insane. If you drive with a light foot, virtually all shifts are butter smooth, sometimes so much so that you literally cant feel them. And if you drive more aggressively the shifts feel much 'tighter' and firmer.
The truck also feels more 'alive' and responsive in general with the 87 tune.
Will a custom tune really be unnecessary with super low boost, like 2-3 psi?
What issues did you run into when running the AMR500 in this way?
I believe the AMR500 I bought comes with a 78mm pulley for 6 rib belts, so that's exactly what I need: 2:1 ratio roughly, and a pulley that will fit to the current belt, although I guess I'll have to buy a new belt if I don't do the A/C delete.
I've got a DiabloSport Predator (1) that I finally recently got working. I've only tried out the 87 Performance tune so far, but the difference has been pretty amazing so far.
The improvement in shifting quality (auto-trans on my ranger) has been insane. If you drive with a light foot, virtually all shifts are butter smooth, sometimes so much so that you literally cant feel them. And if you drive more aggressively the shifts feel much 'tighter' and firmer.
The truck also feels more 'alive' and responsive in general with the 87 tune.
Will a custom tune really be unnecessary with super low boost, like 2-3 psi?
What issues did you run into when running the AMR500 in this way?
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Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
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From: Orlando, FL
the computer has a form of knock detention and will retard ignition 15 whole degrees at the most extreme, If your truck enters limpmode then run an 89 or 91 tune, means it had to pull too much timing and could not get rid of ping or knock, stock for stock the computer itself should be able to handle 6 lbs of boost on its own, make sure the maf sits after the blower, if you add methanol injection you can gaurentee safely stepping on it, 2 to 4 pounds should see about 170lbs of tq down low but it will limit your top end
My main concern, of course, is damaging the internals in any way (I remember in your original post you mentioning that the pistons and rods are the weak points of the Duratec 2.3).
From what I've read online 1 psi of boost = about +7%hp, so 3psi would add about 30hp to my 2.3Duratec 143*1.21 = 173
I have no ambitions to race the truck in anyway, just want to make it feel like less like I'm dragging around a lead coffin lol
I was also wanting to VHT spray, wrap, and silicone spray the exhaust like you mentioned in your OP, but my stock manifold looks rusted to ****, so i think that'll just bring it to a quick death lol.
I tried looking online for aftermarket Stainless exhaust manifolds, but couldn't find anything for the Ranger's 2.3 Duratec, just cast iron manifolds that are identical to stock.
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Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 373
Likes: 23
From: Roswell New mex
Wow, I didn't think the stock ECU could manage 6lb of boost.
My main concern, of course, is damaging the internals in any way (I remember in your original post you mentioning that the pistons and rods are the weak points of the Duratec 2.3).
From what I've read online 1 psi of boost = about +7%hp, so 3psi would add about 30hp to my 2.3Duratec 143*1.21 = 173
I have no ambitions to race the truck in anyway, just want to make it feel like less like I'm dragging around a lead coffin lol
I was also wanting to VHT spray, wrap, and silicone spray the exhaust like you mentioned in your OP, but my stock manifold looks rusted to ****, so i think that'll just bring it to a quick death lol.
I tried looking online for aftermarket Stainless exhaust manifolds, but couldn't find anything for the Ranger's 2.3 Duratec, just cast iron manifolds that are identical to stock.
My main concern, of course, is damaging the internals in any way (I remember in your original post you mentioning that the pistons and rods are the weak points of the Duratec 2.3).
From what I've read online 1 psi of boost = about +7%hp, so 3psi would add about 30hp to my 2.3Duratec 143*1.21 = 173
I have no ambitions to race the truck in anyway, just want to make it feel like less like I'm dragging around a lead coffin lol
I was also wanting to VHT spray, wrap, and silicone spray the exhaust like you mentioned in your OP, but my stock manifold looks rusted to ****, so i think that'll just bring it to a quick death lol.
I tried looking online for aftermarket Stainless exhaust manifolds, but couldn't find anything for the Ranger's 2.3 Duratec, just cast iron manifolds that are identical to stock.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 373
Likes: 23
From: Roswell New mex
Wow, I didn't think the stock ECU could manage 6lb of boost.
My main concern, of course, is damaging the internals in any way (I remember in your original post you mentioning that the pistons and rods are the weak points of the Duratec 2.3).
From what I've read online 1 psi of boost = about +7%hp, so 3psi would add about 30hp to my 2.3Duratec 143*1.21 = 173
I have no ambitions to race the truck in anyway, just want to make it feel like less like I'm dragging around a lead coffin lol
I was also wanting to VHT spray, wrap, and silicone spray the exhaust like you mentioned in your OP, but my stock manifold looks rusted to ****, so i think that'll just bring it to a quick death lol.
I tried looking online for aftermarket Stainless exhaust manifolds, but couldn't find anything for the Ranger's 2.3 Duratec, just cast iron manifolds that are identical to stock.
My main concern, of course, is damaging the internals in any way (I remember in your original post you mentioning that the pistons and rods are the weak points of the Duratec 2.3).
From what I've read online 1 psi of boost = about +7%hp, so 3psi would add about 30hp to my 2.3Duratec 143*1.21 = 173
I have no ambitions to race the truck in anyway, just want to make it feel like less like I'm dragging around a lead coffin lol
I was also wanting to VHT spray, wrap, and silicone spray the exhaust like you mentioned in your OP, but my stock manifold looks rusted to ****, so i think that'll just bring it to a quick death lol.
I tried looking online for aftermarket Stainless exhaust manifolds, but couldn't find anything for the Ranger's 2.3 Duratec, just cast iron manifolds that are identical to stock.
https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazd...UaAra4EALw_wcB
This is one such manifold for the 2006 to 2014 miatas that use the MZR/Duratec 2.0 and your best option for a performance exhuast
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Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
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From: Orlando, FL
https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazd...UaAra4EALw_wcB
This is one such manifold for the 2006 to 2014 miatas that use the MZR/Duratec 2.0 and your best option for a performance exhuast
This is one such manifold for the 2006 to 2014 miatas that use the MZR/Duratec 2.0 and your best option for a performance exhuast
https://www.ranger-forums.com/dohc-2...xhaust-132932/
It looks like the MSDS exhaust header is probably the cheapest Stainless option, so I could safely VHT, wrap, and silicone spray.
MSDS claims a minimum 14%+ HP, and the guy who bought and installed it said he guessed and additional 10-12% gain.
I'm sure the one you posted performs much better, but I'm looking for more modest, and affordable, performance gains.
btw, thx for the quick replies man!
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Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 373
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From: Roswell New mex
I searched the forum and could only find this one other thread on aftermarket exhausts for the 2.3Dura:
https://www.ranger-forums.com/dohc-2...xhaust-132932/
It looks like the MSDS exhaust header is probably the cheapest Stainless option, so I could safely VHT, wrap, and silicone spray.
MSDS claims a minimum 14%+ HP, and the guy who bought and installed it said he guessed and additional 10-12% gain.
I'm sure the one you posted performs much better, but I'm looking for more modest, and affordable, performance gains.
btw, thx for the quick replies man!
https://www.ranger-forums.com/dohc-2...xhaust-132932/
It looks like the MSDS exhaust header is probably the cheapest Stainless option, so I could safely VHT, wrap, and silicone spray.
MSDS claims a minimum 14%+ HP, and the guy who bought and installed it said he guessed and additional 10-12% gain.
I'm sure the one you posted performs much better, but I'm looking for more modest, and affordable, performance gains.
btw, thx for the quick replies man!
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 373
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From: Roswell New mex
The cam advance will move your avg tq and hp down about 6 to 800 rpm, but your topend will drop, the blower will help ensure your making best performance and when I did that (albeit with the M5odr1) I saw close to 35 mpg and some pretty good pickup til 4800 then it started to feel like when revved to 5600
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Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
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From: Orlando, FL
Yea I try to keep up on the forum for anyone asap because of how little performance info this motor exists, the msds header works great but has a very low rpm band orientation, perfect for what your doing, but, the miata manifold is supposed to be perfect from idle to 8600 rpm, but both are excellent manifolds, one thing you can do to improve low end even further but will absolutely require higher octane fuel is advancing both cams 4 degrees forward, any more and you risk slapping piston and valve together but this is really easy to do, basically you take a breaker bar and lock the crank so that it can't loosen when you loosen the bolts to the cams, then you loosen the cam bolts just enough to get an adjustable wrench ti turn the cam slowly, you will want to turn the cams both equally about 4 degrees, tighten the cam bolts to spec with a tq wrench properly first time as this is an interference motor, afterwards, crank the motor forward a full 2 360 degrees, just let me know if you need help tuning your motor some more and if you want I can write tunes for you
If I do end up installing the AMR500 I plan on uploading the 89 octane tune tho, since higher octane fuel should reduce detonation, etc.
I'm not sure if the DS Predator 1 can support custom tunes, I believe you can only modify the 3 preloaded tunes it comes with, ill have to check tho.
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Joined: May 2020
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From: Maple valley wa
Take your intake cam and advance the stock cam about 10 degrees, you'll lose out a little on bottom end but will gain about 30 in the topend, remember this motor makes HP almost linearly because of its flat torque curve and it onlyakes more power with airflow really, delete the imrc and all emmissions devices to see the best effect, what year of ranger do you have, I can send you a delete file for all the emissions junk free
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Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 8
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From: Orlando, FL
Looks like the DS Predator 1 can have custom tunes uploaded to it. I need to buy a new PSU for it tho, which has been a pita so far.
Also got the AMR500 delivered. Looks in good enough shape to use, but it has the 'default' black pulley that is shown on most listings, so ill have to get a new one. I think a 78-80mm pulley should get me the 2-3psi boost I'm looking for.
The input/output flanges are about 1.85", which I guess will be big enough for my low boost goals. My plan is to mount it above the PS pump, with a short 'ram' type CAI near the driver headlight/battery.
Before I even attempt the S/C project tho, I'm going to clean, VHT spray, wrap, and silicone spray my exhaust manifold, probably next week.
What oil did you use for your AMR500 when you had it running? I've seen a lot of plp say you can use 80w90, it just has to be changed out at least every 10k miles. I've got like 3/4 of a quart of Mobil 1 Syn 75w90 sitting around, was thinking of just using that.
Also got the AMR500 delivered. Looks in good enough shape to use, but it has the 'default' black pulley that is shown on most listings, so ill have to get a new one. I think a 78-80mm pulley should get me the 2-3psi boost I'm looking for.
The input/output flanges are about 1.85", which I guess will be big enough for my low boost goals. My plan is to mount it above the PS pump, with a short 'ram' type CAI near the driver headlight/battery.
Before I even attempt the S/C project tho, I'm going to clean, VHT spray, wrap, and silicone spray my exhaust manifold, probably next week.
What oil did you use for your AMR500 when you had it running? I've seen a lot of plp say you can use 80w90, it just has to be changed out at least every 10k miles. I've got like 3/4 of a quart of Mobil 1 Syn 75w90 sitting around, was thinking of just using that.
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Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 373
Likes: 23
From: Roswell New mex
Looks like the DS Predator 1 can have custom tunes uploaded to it. I need to buy a new PSU for it tho, which has been a pita so far.
Also got the AMR500 delivered. Looks in good enough shape to use, but it has the 'default' black pulley that is shown on most listings, so ill have to get a new one. I think a 78-80mm pulley should get me the 2-3psi boost I'm looking for.
The input/output flanges are about 1.85", which I guess will be big enough for my low boost goals. My plan is to mount it above the PS pump, with a short 'ram' type CAI near the driver headlight/battery.
Before I even attempt the S/C project tho, I'm going to clean, VHT spray, wrap, and silicone spray my exhaust manifold, probably next week.
What oil did you use for your AMR500 when you had it running? I've seen a lot of plp say you can use 80w90, it just has to be changed out at least every 10k miles. I've got like 3/4 of a quart of Mobil 1 Syn 75w90 sitting around, was thinking of just using that.
Also got the AMR500 delivered. Looks in good enough shape to use, but it has the 'default' black pulley that is shown on most listings, so ill have to get a new one. I think a 78-80mm pulley should get me the 2-3psi boost I'm looking for.
The input/output flanges are about 1.85", which I guess will be big enough for my low boost goals. My plan is to mount it above the PS pump, with a short 'ram' type CAI near the driver headlight/battery.
Before I even attempt the S/C project tho, I'm going to clean, VHT spray, wrap, and silicone spray my exhaust manifold, probably next week.
What oil did you use for your AMR500 when you had it running? I've seen a lot of plp say you can use 80w90, it just has to be changed out at least every 10k miles. I've got like 3/4 of a quart of Mobil 1 Syn 75w90 sitting around, was thinking of just using that.
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Joined: Apr 2021
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From: Orlando, FL
I saw some other plp saying they used RP 75w90, was thinking about going that route as well since you can get 3 changes, or 30k miles out of a 1q bottle. I might just run the M1 75w90 for several thousand miles, just to save a bit of money up front.
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From: Roswell New mex
It was all my local shop had at the time so thats why I ran it, they all should last around 15k
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Posts: 373
Likes: 23
From: Roswell New mex
you have to lull the compressor off in order to remove it sadly, and im pretty sure you also have to remove the alternator too its been so long
Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere
Thank you
First of all, thank you for all this info you've posted. I've been lurking on different forums for years looking for duratec info.
Im going to do the Aidin AMR super charger as you suggested, with the pulley size mentioned.
Where I live, it's impossible to get a shop to tune the computer for street use. Blah blah laws or something. It's nice to know that it can handle 3psi of boost with the stock ecm
I dont have a tuner for this truck yet, but you mentioned the SCTx4. I dont see the ranger listed on the compatible page. Does it use the same tunes as the 2.3 focus? I'm pretty computer retarded.
The only reason I'm doing forced injection upgrades, is because I want to lift my truck and put 33's on it. That stock 143hp motor isn't going to push that extra weight very well. Even with a re-gear.
So the questions are:
1: bolt the amr 500 on, and it's good to go? No cam timing changes, or anything else necessary?
2: the SCT x4 tuner will work for the ranger?
2006 ranger xl 2.3 2wd manual.
Thank you. I hope you see this. I know this thread is a few months old.
Im going to do the Aidin AMR super charger as you suggested, with the pulley size mentioned.
Where I live, it's impossible to get a shop to tune the computer for street use. Blah blah laws or something. It's nice to know that it can handle 3psi of boost with the stock ecm
I dont have a tuner for this truck yet, but you mentioned the SCTx4. I dont see the ranger listed on the compatible page. Does it use the same tunes as the 2.3 focus? I'm pretty computer retarded.
The only reason I'm doing forced injection upgrades, is because I want to lift my truck and put 33's on it. That stock 143hp motor isn't going to push that extra weight very well. Even with a re-gear.
So the questions are:
1: bolt the amr 500 on, and it's good to go? No cam timing changes, or anything else necessary?
2: the SCT x4 tuner will work for the ranger?
2006 ranger xl 2.3 2wd manual.
Thank you. I hope you see this. I know this thread is a few months old.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 373
Likes: 23
From: Roswell New mex
First of all, thank you for all this info you've posted. I've been lurking on different forums for years looking for duratec info.
Im going to do the Aidin AMR super charger as you suggested, with the pulley size mentioned.
Where I live, it's impossible to get a shop to tune the computer for street use. Blah blah laws or something. It's nice to know that it can handle 3psi of boost with the stock ecm
I dont have a tuner for this truck yet, but you mentioned the SCTx4. I dont see the ranger listed on the compatible page. Does it use the same tunes as the 2.3 focus? I'm pretty computer retarded.
The only reason I'm doing forced injection upgrades, is because I want to lift my truck and put 33's on it. That stock 143hp motor isn't going to push that extra weight very well. Even with a re-gear.
So the questions are:
1: bolt the amr 500 on, and it's good to go? No cam timing changes, or anything else necessary?
2: the SCT x4 tuner will work for the ranger?
2006 ranger xl 2.3 2wd manual.
Thank you. I hope you see this. I know this thread is a few months old.
Im going to do the Aidin AMR super charger as you suggested, with the pulley size mentioned.
Where I live, it's impossible to get a shop to tune the computer for street use. Blah blah laws or something. It's nice to know that it can handle 3psi of boost with the stock ecm
I dont have a tuner for this truck yet, but you mentioned the SCTx4. I dont see the ranger listed on the compatible page. Does it use the same tunes as the 2.3 focus? I'm pretty computer retarded.
The only reason I'm doing forced injection upgrades, is because I want to lift my truck and put 33's on it. That stock 143hp motor isn't going to push that extra weight very well. Even with a re-gear.
So the questions are:
1: bolt the amr 500 on, and it's good to go? No cam timing changes, or anything else necessary?
2: the SCT x4 tuner will work for the ranger?
2006 ranger xl 2.3 2wd manual.
Thank you. I hope you see this. I know this thread is a few months old.
