Flywheel on a clutch relacement? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 08-10-2013
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Flywheel on a clutch relacement?

Running errands today, I felt something change and the clutch seems to engage farther down than it did. Since these are self-adjusting clutches, I suspect this is a sign I should be shopping for a clutch kit. I have put 150,000 miles on a Sachs clutch in my car, but it seems for the truck, they are not self-adjusting, so I am leaning toward the LuK from Amazon. One review said that is the brand used at the factory and several people here have suggested them. What I haven't seen much discussion on is whether most people resurface the flywheel, install a new one, or see what the old one looks like first?
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Old 08-11-2013
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I replaced mine a few years ago in my 2008 4.0l and I took a look at the flywheel and decided not to resurface it. Biggest mistake I have ever made. For the $50 dollars or so that it will cost plan to get it done.
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Old 08-11-2013
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It looks like new flywheels start at $50, so I am probably better off with new and no wait for resurfacing.
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Old 08-11-2013
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You can do what you want but I would think that a ford flywheel that costs like $350 would be of higher quality then a $50 one. Personally I would still resurface the factory one.
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Old 08-11-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffboulard View Post
You can do what you want but I would think that a ford flywheel that costs like $350 would be of higher quality then a $50 one. Personally I would still resurface the factory one.
^this...dont cheap out
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Old 08-11-2013
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That is why I used 'start at'. I won't use the $50 version, but Napa is $70 and Beck Arnley is $80. I think I would trust Napa, and Beck Arnley typically buys factory-spec parts from the original factory supplier. The only clutch replacement I ever faced was on a BMW and I didn't even consider trying that myself. Did you have a lift or did you use jack stands?
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Old 08-11-2013
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I had a lift. I would do it my self without one though. I didn't have a trany jack or anyone to help me so I ran ratchet straps between the frame rails and used them to support the weight. Then I just slid the trany back as far as I could. Which is not very far with the 4x4 transfercase. That gave me enough room to change clutch.
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Old 08-11-2013
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That's encouraging. I don't have a lift, but this is a four-banger 2x4 which should help.
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Old 08-12-2013
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i did my clutch in my garage last year and didnt even have to jack the front end off the ground. when i pulled out my flywheel it was not grooved, discolored or glazed at all. i used 2" grinder cookies on a die grinder to resurface the flywheel in my garage. been working great and have never had an issue with it.



only reason i did mine this way is because ford quoted me $420 for a flywheel and no other parts stores around my area could either get one or beat fords price.. no shops around would grind my factory flywheel either.


you will also find that a hell of a lot of transmission shops will do flywheels the same way or not even surface prep the factory flywheel at all.
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Old 08-13-2013
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If I had put all the miles on this truck, I would have more confidence in what the flywheel will look like. The previous owner had let his son drive this truck for about a year, and the son was probably 20 or less, which may be why it needs a clutch at 118k. If it turns out I am being overly pessimistic, could I do the same thing with a rotary air sander and garnet discs?
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Old 08-17-2013
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ya you could probably get away with it. im not saying ti is the best way to go, just the way i did mine. if i have an issue i can have my trans out in an hour so for me it is not a big deal if it did not work. you shouldnt have any issues with it doing it that way though
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Old 08-17-2013
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I have the flywheel resurfaced every time I change a clutch regardless of what it looks like. It's cheap. Why take the chance of having to take it all back apart and do it again, or getting a shorter life out of your clutch.
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