How to ruin a 2.3 Duratec
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Redford, Michigan
How to ruin a 2.3 Duratec
How to ruin a 2.3 Duratec
I bought a very clean low mileage 2001 Ranger with the 2.3 Duratec motor. After driving this truck for about a month, I was returning home from a business trip on the freeway. Looking in the side mirror I noticed that it was blowing a lot of black smoke out the tail pipe. Since the truck was still running OK and not wanting to get stuck out in the boondocks, I drove it the rest of the way into the city. Over the next couple of days I spent a lot of time trying to troubleshoot this problem. There were no codes and everything seemed to be OK, but the black smoke continued. Finally I happened to notice in the shop manual that the intake manifold on this engine is equipped with what are called "Swirl Dampers". These vacuum operated dampers close off about 3/4 of the manifold below 2,000 RPM and are supposed to create air turbulence to improve low speed operation and idle. You can't even see the operator, let alone see it's linkage the way it's positioned back at the firewall. So I removed the manifold. Sure enough, the plastic ball and socket had become separated and the dampers were in the closed position. This effectively limited the air flow, just like running with the choke closed on a carburetor. I drilled a hole in the center of the socket and snapped it back onto the ball, using a screw to hold it in place (This should be a permanent fix.). When I put the manifold back on the engine ran great and there was no more black smoke. However there was now a lot of blue smoke! The engine was now burning oil at the rate of about 1 quart to 100 miles. Obviously running that rich had destroyed the rings and possibly the cylinder walls. Finally I was able to locate a low millage 2.3 Duratec engine and installed it (after checking and making the modification to the damper linkage). This new engine is running well. I hope this helps someone else not to destroy their engine. B.D.
I bought a very clean low mileage 2001 Ranger with the 2.3 Duratec motor. After driving this truck for about a month, I was returning home from a business trip on the freeway. Looking in the side mirror I noticed that it was blowing a lot of black smoke out the tail pipe. Since the truck was still running OK and not wanting to get stuck out in the boondocks, I drove it the rest of the way into the city. Over the next couple of days I spent a lot of time trying to troubleshoot this problem. There were no codes and everything seemed to be OK, but the black smoke continued. Finally I happened to notice in the shop manual that the intake manifold on this engine is equipped with what are called "Swirl Dampers". These vacuum operated dampers close off about 3/4 of the manifold below 2,000 RPM and are supposed to create air turbulence to improve low speed operation and idle. You can't even see the operator, let alone see it's linkage the way it's positioned back at the firewall. So I removed the manifold. Sure enough, the plastic ball and socket had become separated and the dampers were in the closed position. This effectively limited the air flow, just like running with the choke closed on a carburetor. I drilled a hole in the center of the socket and snapped it back onto the ball, using a screw to hold it in place (This should be a permanent fix.). When I put the manifold back on the engine ran great and there was no more black smoke. However there was now a lot of blue smoke! The engine was now burning oil at the rate of about 1 quart to 100 miles. Obviously running that rich had destroyed the rings and possibly the cylinder walls. Finally I was able to locate a low millage 2.3 Duratec engine and installed it (after checking and making the modification to the damper linkage). This new engine is running well. I hope this helps someone else not to destroy their engine. B.D.
sad story indeed!
but on the good side ,, now you can soup up that motor
there is a manufacturer that makes aftermarket cams for the 2.3l 4 banger
( cannot remember who it is off the top of head )
go for an over-bore ,, larger pistons ,, i-beam connecting rods ,, heavier crankshaft
heavier flywheel,, larger capacity fuel injectors,,larger radiator
it bumps up the horsepower to something around 240 horse
i will have to google it later and post back
but on the good side ,, now you can soup up that motor
there is a manufacturer that makes aftermarket cams for the 2.3l 4 banger
( cannot remember who it is off the top of head )
go for an over-bore ,, larger pistons ,, i-beam connecting rods ,, heavier crankshaft
heavier flywheel,, larger capacity fuel injectors,,larger radiator
it bumps up the horsepower to something around 240 horse
i will have to google it later and post back
you shouldn`t laugh
My built turbo Duratec dynograph - The Ford Focus Forum | Powered by Focaljet
a turbo`d 2.3l duratec
My built turbo Duratec dynograph - The Ford Focus Forum | Powered by Focaljet
a turbo`d 2.3l duratec
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 379
Likes: 2
From: Orillia, Ontario
sad story indeed!
but on the good side ,, now you can soup up that motor
there is a manufacturer that makes aftermarket cams for the 2.3l 4 banger
( cannot remember who it is off the top of head )
go for an over-bore ,, larger pistons ,, i-beam connecting rods ,, heavier crankshaft
heavier flywheel,, larger capacity fuel injectors,,larger radiator
it bumps up the horsepower to something around 240 horse
i will have to google it later and post back
but on the good side ,, now you can soup up that motor
there is a manufacturer that makes aftermarket cams for the 2.3l 4 banger
( cannot remember who it is off the top of head )
go for an over-bore ,, larger pistons ,, i-beam connecting rods ,, heavier crankshaft
heavier flywheel,, larger capacity fuel injectors,,larger radiator
it bumps up the horsepower to something around 240 horse
i will have to google it later and post back
true enough
but you would have to replace all of the wiring harness including all of the relays and such
and engine computer and shorten the the tail light wiring harness
just to swap in a 4.0 engine
if i was going to go that route ,, i would just opt for a 5.0 v8
with a little tuning you would get around the same fuel milaege as the 4.0 litre engine
but you would have to replace all of the wiring harness including all of the relays and such
and engine computer and shorten the the tail light wiring harness
just to swap in a 4.0 engine
if i was going to go that route ,, i would just opt for a 5.0 v8
with a little tuning you would get around the same fuel milaege as the 4.0 litre engine
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 379
Likes: 2
From: Orillia, Ontario
still be a bucket load cheaper to replace the wiring and such then to have someone bore your cylinder block, buy/regrind the cams, new connecting rods, etc.....
the price of the connecting rods and larger pistons is the equivalent, if not more, to what you need for the v8 swap.
side note: love the avatar...
the price of the connecting rods and larger pistons is the equivalent, if not more, to what you need for the v8 swap.
side note: love the avatar...
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Leitchfield, KY
Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Canton Ohio
Hi Guys
I'm new, just sittin back listening.
I'm pulling the intake off my 03 Mazda B2300 2.3 today to inspect
the IMRC controls because its acting exactly the way some on here have described.
I get an intermittent tick that sounds just like a lifter tick and quits when I disconnect the vacuum hose on the right side of the engine.
I would normally just replace the part, but I just got the truck, and don't know how long its been
doing this so the runner actuater and butterfly's may be loose.
I'm new, just sittin back listening.
I'm pulling the intake off my 03 Mazda B2300 2.3 today to inspect
the IMRC controls because its acting exactly the way some on here have described.
I get an intermittent tick that sounds just like a lifter tick and quits when I disconnect the vacuum hose on the right side of the engine.
I would normally just replace the part, but I just got the truck, and don't know how long its been
doing this so the runner actuater and butterfly's may be loose.
true enough
but you would have to replace all of the wiring harness including all of the relays and such
and engine computer and shorten the the tail light wiring harness
just to swap in a 4.0 engine
if i was going to go that route ,, i would just opt for a 5.0 v8
with a little tuning you would get around the same fuel milaege as the 4.0 litre engine
but you would have to replace all of the wiring harness including all of the relays and such
and engine computer and shorten the the tail light wiring harness
just to swap in a 4.0 engine
if i was going to go that route ,, i would just opt for a 5.0 v8
with a little tuning you would get around the same fuel milaege as the 4.0 litre engine
no i was telling him that bolting a turbo onto a 4 cyl engine that is NOT manufactured to handle a turbo is idiotic
retrofitting a same year explorer with the 5.0 engine is a better route to go
modifying wiring is easy
retrofitting a same year explorer with the 5.0 engine is a better route to go
modifying wiring is easy
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