2003 Ranger XLT 2.3L DOHC (235K)

I shoulda left it alone.....

With my intake manifold out, I loosened the nut holding the EGR tube to the crankcase and paid no attention to the orientation of the tube, which flopped over. I'd like to torque it back down before putting the IM back in, but then the tube would probably be in the wrong position.

Unless folks here have a better idea, I'll put the truck back together then try to get a crowsfoot on the fitting. I think that's what Bob in Gilroy was talking about in this thread.

Am I asking for extra trouble doing it that way?
Thanks!

 

This thread has me second guessing if I tightened my EGR pipe nut down when I was done changing the intake and valve cover gasket on my truck.

I would confirm while the manifold was off what size the nut is and just purchase a crows foot like mentioned on the thread you posted a link to.

I will have to double check mine today.

I took a flashlight out to my truck this morning and I am positive I never went back and tightened my nut down.

Now I am wondering if it is a the source of my unexplained noise when the engine has warmed up.

 

I came up with what I think is an easy solution. On the IM, I screwed in the two top bolts and then aligned the EGR pipe, but didn't seat it. Then I gently set the butt end of a thin strip of wood against a fixed point on the fuel rail, with the strip itself between the tube and air assembly. With the EGR parts aligned, I marked the lower edge of the EGR tube mounting plate. Removed the IM again, and used the measuring stick to torque down the EGR fitting with an open ended wrench, while maintaining the tube alignment.

Voila. Maybe.

I say maybe because the proof in the pudding is firing up with no vac leaks, which I haven't done yet, and probably won't be ready to do for a days.

Good luck getting your own snugged down

 

What your not coming down to do it for me?

 

Shoooooot.... are you kidding? You've got it all back together right? When I said that was an "easy" solution I meant "easy" if you've already got the IM out. Its been days and days since I started this job and I only just finished the PCV and oil sep cleanout. Thanks again for that suggestion BTW.

 

The hardest part I ran across doing the same job plus a valve cover gasket was getting a new manifold from Amazon that wasn't broken.

It took three intakes to get one that wasn't broken upon arrival.

Once you get it done the first time and get past the learning curve you will wonder what took you so long to do it the first time if you ever have to take it apart again.

I guess the key here is having the right tools to make the job easier.

I think I used different ratchet, socket and extension setups for nearly each bolt.

One trick that may be helpful when reinstalling any bolts you cannot start by hand is to use aluminum foil or paper to hold the bolt in the socket.

Tear off a small piece of aluminum foil or paper just larger than the diameter of the socket, hold it over the head of the bolt and press the bolt into the socket for a tight fit.

This will prevent the bolt from falling out of the socket when installing it.

If you use Aluminum foil make sure to keep track of the foil so it does not end up where you do not want it. ( like laying across the starter wires )

If your socket to extension fit is loose use foil or paper at that connection also or you may lose your socket to that bolt you cant reach.

 

That sounds like almost every plug on the Vulcan engine! :(

 

"I guess the key here is having the right tools to make the job easier.
I think I used different ratchet, socket and extension setups for nearly each bolt."

Yep. I made notes about what tools I used, but note to self - next big job, put used tools in empty bucket, then lay them out and take pic when job is done. Then next time I can get them altogether a lot faster and without carrying extras out to the street

 

Just been through this, removing both the EGR and its tube to check for carbon build up, getting low DPFE voltages on wide open EGR (w/ new DPFE). EGR appeared to be ok, minimal carbon and opened and sealed ok. (cleaned it anyway). no sign of any blockage in tube. could blow through it easily. Was able to loosen and remove, then refit and tighten the tube, using a 1 1/16 wrench (*spanner) just to break the lock, then a stubby antique (well I've had it 40 yrs) adjustable wrench (thats also my goto plumbing tool btw!) to do most of the work, final tightening with wrench. Thinking about getting a crows foot as there's not much room on either end of the pipe! Must say, even the bolts on the EGR are really difficult to get on due to how (crazy) close they are to firewall.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I'm doing the IM again so wanted to reply to EaOutlaw's trick....


Lately I've been using small round super magnets to great effect. If you need just a little grab, put it on the extension. If you need a bit more grab, cover the socket and attach the bolt to the magnet. You can at least get it in the hole this way and if you're lucky to engage threads you can get it started just enough, to pull the tool and magnet off while the bolt stays. As a bonus If the bolt does "fall" it will jump to the magnet.