that sucks, come up here and you can swap your axle in my garage. find some friends down there that will let you, its only a couple hour job.

 

I know, I know of a couple people who would let me, but its just everyones schedules conflict

 

Why didnt you go with the 4.88's? Also how can pictures be 'nothing to look at'? I thought that is what pictures are for?!!?!?!

 

4.88's are too tall of a gear for 35's......The reason Scott put 4.88's in is because he has 37's.


Sounds great Zach, i'd like to get some 4.56's also...........oops!

 

What chart/place are you getting that from? 4.56's would be good on 33's and meagerly ok on 35's...5.13's would be alittle bit over kill if your where gonna do long distance trips, so the 4.88's are the cats m3ow...strong in the 35" range and slight overkill in the 33" range....

 

d@mn, i jus realised Big04Ranger is in indy......i need to pay more attention
i also didnt know you were headin down here. woulda liked to meet up with you guys while you were here.

 

i guess if you call 3000 rpm at 70 on the highway cool then?

 

I know that for the 3.NO 3k is the power range for optimum throttle response

 

you sold ur 33's 4.56 would not be good like that..haha
dumb ***.

 

^ haha

 

Uh huh, my truck floats around 2800rpms @ 70mph. And I have the oh so resonant 40 series, talk about loud

 

next time your in FL u wanna install my 4.88's

 

4.88s are too tall for 35s as stated, sure you can run them but i do a mixture of highway and city, 4.56s are plenty fine for now.

lol buy them



those charts are based on a basci vehical.

try this

New Tire Diameter / Old Tire Diameter * Current Gear Ratio

35 / 31 * 4.10 = 4.62

now obviously they dont make a 4.62 so i went with a 4.56.

37 / 31 * 4.10 = 4.89

Basically a perfect match for 37s

This gets you in the same ball park as the stock ratio.

5.13s will not fit in the front of our Diffs.
I did plenty of reading and asking of other people before i bought my gears.

Sorry man i didnt even think about you being in Indy.


And optimum gas sucking ability.

Scott is the gear guy not me. I just pulled everyhting apart he set the gears and made sure the mesh was right. then i reassembled. From what he said 4.88s are a pain.

 

how fun was the front to do ?

 

it wasnt bad, i had the front diff out in 20 min.

 

do you have to lower the assembly for the front end or is it possible to get to it without dropping it?

 

All you have to do is on the passanger side is remove the brake caliper and upper ball joint.

then pop the CV on the passanger side out and slide it out.

once it is slid out move to the left side and pop the CV, the cv wont come all the way out so just leave it loose.

then you can unbolt the driveshaft, and the 3 mounting places for the Diff.

once those are loose start to wiggle it out as you are wiggling it out have someone pull the drivers side CV all the way out.

it should be out after all that. lol

 

Yeah its simple...I remember droping my front end when i did my lift, but i didnt take it all the way down...just enough for the brackets...Now I have a big **** 1/4" skid plate in the way.....oh well its saved me at least twice now so i can complain!

 

sounds good, but do you like them?

 

i did that too but this is different. it was all the way out. i would post the pics but i dont have them on this PC.

 

oh ya

 

Well yeah, but its the same idea non the less. Did you drop the axel from the stock bolts or from the drop brackets?

 

from the drop brackets

 

Kinda what i figured...getting at those stock bolt locations was a bear...so i figured it would be faster and easier to just unbolt the drop bracket bolts

 

haha, all you jerks just wait....i have something in store for all yall'

and erv stfu, you know what it is!! lol....