4.88 with 33's?
4.88 with 33's?
How would that be? I do mostly city driving, very little highway and when I do do highway it's only for like 15 mins tops. I've got a 3.sl0w and plan on going to 35's eventually anyway so I know it'll be good for 35's just not sure if its too much gearing for 33's...
I'm planning on 4.88s with 35s on my 3.0 as well but with 33s, I think that's a little much. I know of a couple guys on the forum running 35s with stock 4.10s just fine. I'd wait to regear until you have the 35s ready to go on, just my opinion.
I found an axle with 4.88's in it for a decent price, I'm not regearing an existing axle otherwise I'd just wait. If I buy it now it'll cost me a third the price then if I bought one with 4.10's and regeared after I got 35's. I don't care about MPG as long as I get over 10mpg lol.
I found an axle with 4.88's in it for a decent price, I'm not regearing an existing axle otherwise I'd just wait. If I buy it now it'll cost me a third the price then if I bought one with 4.10's and regeared after I got 35's. I don't care about MPG as long as I get over 10mpg lol.
I thiink 35's and 4.88's are way too high of gearing...but thats just me. You'll be fine for a while with 33's and 4.88's...although you'll want 37's...trust me it's the exact opposite of what you have now.
4.88s should be fine in town, you'll be wrapping the motor up on the highway.
With 4.88s and 35s i was doing ~3200 RPMs at ~70 in *5th*
now
with 3.55s and 35s i do ~2200 rpms at ~65 in *4th* and ~3,000 at 65 in 3rd...
I haven't even been into 5th and stayed there its just too much of a dog.. ~1700rpms at 65
5.13s are gonna suckkkkkkkk especially for the road trip to MO.
With 4.88s and 35s i was doing ~3200 RPMs at ~70 in *5th*
now
with 3.55s and 35s i do ~2200 rpms at ~65 in *4th* and ~3,000 at 65 in 3rd...
I haven't even been into 5th and stayed there its just too much of a dog.. ~1700rpms at 65

5.13s are gonna suckkkkkkkk especially for the road trip to MO.
I don't like how mine revs up so much. When I tow the trailer I have to shut o/d off, and I'm at 2900-3000rpms at 60...it sucks, before it was 3000rpms for 65-67....it is THAT much of a difference.
what? dude...i pull 3000rpms going 80 in 5th w/ 4.88's 4.0L sohc and 35's. And that measurement is from a calibrated scan gauge.
are we talking about a auto or a 5spd korey? my 4.56's and 33's are perfectly fine for my 3.0 auto but interstate i just stick to the slow lane no need to try to force the engine and kill the mileage or worse the engine itself...
I found an axle with 4.88's in it for a decent price, I'm not regearing an existing axle otherwise I'd just wait. If I buy it now it'll cost me a third the price then if I bought one with 4.10's and regeared after I got 35's. I don't care about MPG as long as I get over 10mpg lol.
i say go for it if you dont do much highway driving just do 60 or so when you are out there should still do decent on gas ... my dads buddy has a jeep on 33s with 5.38s i think .... he wont even take it on the freeway it screams even trying to do 55 lol (he has a daily, 95 f150 i6 xcab longbed manual)
the gears just cause it to get a higher rpm i dont have a tach so i wouldnt know exactly the rpms it's running but i just try to baby it on the interstate but yea 4.88's will be fine with 35's and will be insane with 33's i can spin my 33's np with my 3.sl0000w and 4.56's
Do it, it will be fine.
I ran 4.88's in my sport trac (was an auto) with 33's for quite a while. It was fine on the highway. In O/D with a calibrated speedo, I was pulling around 2850 at 65 or 70. I forget, I'll have to look it up. On the highway, in town, everywhere I got 14mpg. But I also had a big roof rack with a spare on top, programmer, and drove with a heavy foot.
If I did it again with plans only for 33's, I would go for 4.56 (with a 4.0L). I went with 4.88's because I got a used front diff with 4.88's and aussie installed for a good price.
You likely won't need to lock out O/D with 4.88's when you tow, unless you're moving it around town.
I pulled a (very) loaded down 6x14 enclosed trailer from Oregon to Kentucky with my Sport Trac, and only locked out O/D at the bottom of the hills. It didn't hunt or shift between gears on the highway. It held solid at 65mph+ so I saw no reason to rev the **** out of the motor when it was pulling hard a steady in O/D. 10mpg average on the trip too.
I ran 4.88's in my sport trac (was an auto) with 33's for quite a while. It was fine on the highway. In O/D with a calibrated speedo, I was pulling around 2850 at 65 or 70. I forget, I'll have to look it up. On the highway, in town, everywhere I got 14mpg. But I also had a big roof rack with a spare on top, programmer, and drove with a heavy foot.
If I did it again with plans only for 33's, I would go for 4.56 (with a 4.0L). I went with 4.88's because I got a used front diff with 4.88's and aussie installed for a good price.
You likely won't need to lock out O/D with 4.88's when you tow, unless you're moving it around town.
I pulled a (very) loaded down 6x14 enclosed trailer from Oregon to Kentucky with my Sport Trac, and only locked out O/D at the bottom of the hills. It didn't hunt or shift between gears on the highway. It held solid at 65mph+ so I saw no reason to rev the **** out of the motor when it was pulling hard a steady in O/D. 10mpg average on the trip too.
Yep. Sorry, meant to emphasize that in my post. I toyed with the idea of a used suspension lift and 35's on the sport trac for a while, part of the reason why the 4.88's were as appealing.






