5 speed manual clutch question! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 03-27-2008
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5 speed manual clutch question!

Hey all,

Well I have a 08 Mazda B4000, 4.0 4x4. Basically I drive 200 km a day to work and back and all this weak I have noticed it is really hard sometimes to put it into gear, like sometimes going from 1st to second is hard. It's always random, but it is rough to shift into gear most of the time.

Now my question is, when I push down on my clutch, it goes like almost all the way down without any like pushback on the clutch, and when I push it until I feel the clutch start to loosen it only goes down like 2 more inches.

Basically, clutch goes 90% of the way down without me feeling the clutch engage, then the final 10% is where I feel the clutch kick in and take it out of gear. So I can drive with the clutch 3/4's of the way down and it not come out of gear.

You guys understand? I want to know if this is normal or not. When I got it, I am pretty sure I would push it down 5% and then start to feel the clutch start to do it's work

As any more questions of needed
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Old 03-27-2008
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Oh yes, I checked my clutch fluid and it is full, when my old cars did this, the fluid was always really low!
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Old 03-27-2008
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My guess would be the slave cylinder.

You and I pretty much do the same routine in our trucks. I recently became out of work after working for the same company for almost 10 years! I used to drive to various jobsites as required through faxes from my employer, which was generally about 200 miles a day.

A lot of times in traffic too! I've that that exact issue with my 95 more then a couple times now and the slave's always been the culprit. I've changed my master once because it was leaking from the top but that's it. So that means I've changed the slave at a ratio of about 3 to 1. 3 slaves to every master.

Looks like you have 4x4 too, which makes it funner....haha J/K




Allen
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Old 03-27-2008
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well its brand new. Take it to the dealer and have them take a look at it. It does seem to be the slave cylinder so you could try bleeding it.
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Old 03-28-2008
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Yeah, I am just lazy about going to a dealer because it's so far from home and they always try to screw you! I will take it in asap
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Old 03-28-2008
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I did'nt even see that it was an 08!

I don't know how many miles you've racked up but if it's an 08 you should still be under warranty. Take that bad boy back bro!



Allen
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Old 03-28-2008
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I only have like 5000 km so like 3300 miles on it. Yeah I have warranty until 60k I think. I will take it to have it looked at but hopefully the issue is there when I bring it in!
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Old 04-01-2008
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Well I had to take it in today. This morning and yesterday morning, I would start the truck and go to put it into reverse but it just wouldn't go. Then I had to slam it in, drive 100 km with it pretty much grinding into gear. So I go to drop it off today and I parked it in the way so they would have to move it. I go out there and the damn guy asked me wtf is wrong with my truck, then he proceeded to stall it about 5 times moving it 20 feet back into the locked area.

So tomorrow first thing, they are going to start the truck and see what I am talking about.

POS truck, you got a POS truck.

Sometimes I just wish somebody would steal it, I would get my $30k back and go buy a Subaru which would last the next 20 years!
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Old 04-02-2008
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Well the problem is fixed. They have bled the clutch system and all is now good. I have no idea how this happened in such a short time but I am happy it is fixed. I will pick it up today after work. Had a nice HHR as a rental lol
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Old 04-02-2008
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How do you bleed the slave cylinder?
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Old 04-02-2008
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I dunno, maybe they just bled the clutch. He told me they bled the "clutch system" to me.
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Old 04-02-2008
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this the shortened up version

2) Fill master cyl to the top with new brake fluid conforming with DOT 3 specifications.

4) Remove dust cap from bleeder and push a clear tube over bleeder. The other end of the hose into a container, bottle of sorts. (Ed.. I didn't do this....felt as though there was no need, I knew I was gonna get covered with brake fluid anyway)

5) Open bleeder valve. Fluid will run from master cyl, down the hydraulic line, into the release cyl and out through the clear plastic tube. Let fluid run out until it is free of bubbles. (Ed. DON'T LET FLUID RUN OUT OF MASTER CYL!!!)

6) Close bleeder valve.

7) Have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal and hold it. Open the bleeder valve on the release cyl, allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. Close the bleeder valve when the flow stops. Once closed, have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press and release the pedal five times, waiting for two seconds each time the pedal is released.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the step.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, repete steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by solid stream of fluid being ejected from te bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install dust cap. Check carefully for peoper operation before placing the vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.
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Old 04-02-2008
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Thanks, Will try it.....
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Old 04-02-2008
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Wow, great directions. Thanks for those well written out tips mossyoak!
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Old 04-17-2008
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Well, the problem came back. Again it feels like I am low on fluid and they want me to bring the truck in again! Geez. I have to either miss work or rent a car again and pay $60 for a rental to get this stupid issue fixed AGAIN!
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