Hi all, New to the forum so I apologize in advance if this question has been asked and answered 20 times.

I have a 2010 2.3L automatic 4x2 with transmission codes P0733, P0734 & P0735. Rather than do a rebuild I'd like to do a used swap. car-part.com shows interchange transmissions are 2008-2011.

My question is will any 2001-2011 5R55E out of a 4x2 work in my 2010 Ranger? The 2008-2011 transmissions are much more expensive than the 2001-2007 transmission on car-part.com. Thanks for any input you can provide!

 

Yes, if its from a 2.3l Duratec 2002 to 2011 it will be plug and play, so Ranger, or Mazda B2300, in those years, the 2.3l Duratec never came in 4x4s, just FYI
2.3l Duratec did start in Rangers in mid-2001, earlier in 2001 was the 2.5l Lima engine and trans won't work, so I would stick to 2002 and up

I would use a new torque converter, always

If its your first automatic trans swap BE SURE to SEAT torque converter inside transmission FIRST then put trans onto engine, failure to do this will RUIN the transmission, no do overs

 

Thanks for the info! So only 5R55E from a 2.3L Duratec will be plug and play...not one from a 3.0L or 4.0L 4x2?

I'll be sure to use a new torque converter

 

The bell housing on any transmission is specific to the engine it was bolted to/made for
The 2.3l Duratec, 3.0l Vulcan, and 4.0l Cologne engines all have different bolt patterns

2.3l Duratec was also mostly used in FWD cars so transmissions wouldn't work in RWD setup
Ranger and Mazda B-series were the only 2.3l Duratec RWD transmissions

You can change bell housings but would require almost a full disassembly to line up front pump on an automatic, and at that point might as well rebuild it, lol

Ford bell housing patterns seen here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_o...using_patterns

 

Hey Ron,
Thanks again for the info on the bell housing info. I thought I might need to swap the transmission but I started reading some more and had some ABS codes and some people say the ABS could affect transmission performance. Maybe you can point me in the right direction on this issue.

I had these codes on my 2010 2.3L Duratec 2WD 2 Door with automatic transmission. I have a C1222 ABS code (Speed Wheel Mismatch), a C1296 (left front wheel speed sensor input signal fault) & a C1297 (right front wheel speed sensor input signal fault). I also have the P0733, P0734 & P0735 transmission codes and the transmission is not shifting correctly. After reading some articles I was thinking the ABS faults might be the cause for the transmission shifting issue.

My wheels are factory correct and all four tires are correct size 225/70/15 as per the door card so I don't have any idea why the C1222 code is popping. I replaced both the front left and right wheel speed sensors and reset all codes...went for a test drive and all three codes came back almost immediately. Also transmission is still not shifting correctly so I didn't solve anything. Do you have any ideas on what I can do next to figure this out?

Thanks!

 

Not sure where you read that about Ford Rangers but it doesn't apply you your vehicle
ABS will not effect transmission, as it's a separate system in 2010

P0733, P0734 & P0735 MEAN the transmission is not shifting correctly, so they are confirmation codes not diagnostic codes, not really any help

ABS codes about the front wheel sensors mean either the 4WABS module has a bad connection or both front wheel sensors/hubs went bad at the same time which is very very unlikely

Make sure both sensors are plugged in and then take off 4WABS wiring connector in engine bay and have a look inside, for corrosion, plug connector back if it looks OK, and then clear the Codes, go for a drive, as best you can, and see if they come back, ABS codes can take a few minutes to set
C1222 comes on because of one of the other 2 ABS codes as set

 

So I double checked the new ABS sensor connections and they are both securely connected then I took the 4WABS connector off and it's clean as a whistle. I cleared the codes and headed out for a test drive. The ABS light came on almost immediately.

This is probably a dumb question but you never learn anything if you don't ask. Every time I've fixed an issue with engine codes the light goes off almost immediately but after reading you're response about the test drive I'm wondering if you meant for me to drive the truck for some distance and see if the ABS light goes out on its own because it needs time to reset?

There is one other thing I forgot to mention in all this. The traction control light also comes on when the ABS light comes on. Don't know if that has any bearing on diagnosing the issue.

 

If you correct a problem then a code will reset on its own after a few drives, once computer has been "convinced" the problem is corrected.
If you clear the codes with OBD2 reader then computer will "assume" system is working as it should, but will set a code if its not, can be the same code if original problem was not corrected

Traction control needs 4WABS working, so yes, traction control light would come on with ABS light

You will most likely need to take vehicle in for service in regards to the ABS system, or you may need to "throw parts at it" which will be even more expensive

Your transmission can be tested using Pressure Ports on the outside of transmission, need a 400psi test gauge, again professional service may be required, reading the pressure results can be a bit of an "art" but all the info is out there on the internet if you want to try it yourself
Pressure doesn't tell you whats wrong, can be more of whats not wrong

 

Thanks again! I am going to take it to the transmission shop next week for service on that issue. Once I get it back from them I'll take it to my mechanic and have him diagnose the ABS issue. Will post what was done when it's all fixed (hopefully).

 

So I took the truck to the transmission shop and the problem was a sensor. They replaced the sensor and I've been driving the truck for a couple weeks now with no problems. Still haven't made it to my mechanic to diagnose the ABS issue...will update the thread once that happens.

 

Finally fixed the ABS light issue. Identifix suggested one possible cause was wheel bearings so I replaced the front rotor/hubs and wheel bearings. The ABS light went out and has not come back. I've put 700 miles on the truck since changing the bearings and light has stayed off. I really didn't expect that fix to work because the original bearings didn't feel bad, no noise, no growl, no irregular feel at all. But hey, it worked so I hope this helps anyone else who may run into the same issue.