Hi, I'm new to the forum. I have done all the work needed on my vehicles in the past, have not taken them in for anything other than tire swaps/balances... I'm stumped at this point now.

4.0 liter, v6, 4x4, 166,000 miles. No previous engine problems.

I'm getting the dreaded chain rattle, or so I think it is, at 2600rpm and it disappears at 3,000rpm. It gets worse under any kind of load. I'm assuming it's the timing chain guide and I assume it's the rear one, of course. I'm just wondering if I should attempt to replace it or swap engines or just sell the ranger... I've taken transmissions out before, but this seems like it's a little over my head, especially without Ford's "special tools". Has anyone ever had this done at a shop? What can I expect for cost?

On a side note and something that makes me think swapping would be a better option, I am losing a lot of coolant. I fill my reservoir and 30 miles later, its bone dry. No visible leaks on or below the engine bay. I think I have a cracked head, probably in between my valves and I'm burning the coolant. I've sat with a flashlight, looking for leaks at idle, for 30 minutes and everything is dry. It seems to only take the coolant when I'm driving it around, under load. I have no codes... Truck drives and stays cool but I top the radiator off about once a month, because the coolant just doesn't stay in the reservoir (hoses are dry/no cracks in reservoir). Any advice on what I should do?

Thanks,

Patrick

 

There are plenty of videos on youtube on how to replace the timing chain/guides.

Do you have a garage to work out of? Do you have another car to get around while the truck is apart?

You will either need an engine hoist to pull the engine out, or if you have a garage you might be able to get away with using a hoist attached to the crossbeam going across the garage to pull the engine straight up and then roll the truck out of the way.

Removing an engine isn't that bad...there is usually a single wiring loom that goes to each sensor so just follow the wiring loom to disconnect all the sensors, then unbolt the motor mounts, unbolt from the transmission, and it should just pull right out. You may have to take out the radiator to make room but that isn't a big deal either.

I've been there before where I had to tackle a project that intimidated me but was never nearly as bad as I though it would be. Just make sure you are prepared and understand what you have to do. If you get familiar with the process you may be able to knock it out in one weekend.

Otherwise just bite the bullet and pay a shop to do it. If you sell the truck, then unless you find a stupid buyer you aren't going to get much for it since it needs all that work. That loss in the sale might as well be applied towards the repair and then once repaired you'd have a 4.0 with a brand new timing chain/guides.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna end up doing it myself, I just need to buy a beater car so I can get to work. I like to take my time with projects of this magnitude... Would you suggest buying new heads if I have the engine out? I think it might be a good idea and I've seen some good, heavy duty aftermarket heads out there. I would just hate to pull the motor and then, 10,000 miles later, have to deal with bent lifters of scored rockers....
I agree that fixing is the way to go, for resale value. Dont plan on selling it if I can get it fixed!

Thanks

 

Getting rebuilt/remanufactured heads from a reputable machine shop is a good idea. New valves, springs, decked-flat surface, seats...all a good idea. Mine would have cost me 350 from my local shop. He did my brother's SB Chevy heads and they're still on there 6 years later, so why not?

If there are "heavy duty" heads out there that you like, I say go for it.

If and when you do this, it's a great idea that if you pull anything that seals with a rubber o-ring, e.g. injectors, rail, replace with new o-rings.

The old ones may work, but it's a great insurance policy to do this.

An overlooked part is this pack of FI adapters I had to buy: https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-NEW-OEM-F...frcectupt=true

You can get the FI o-rings at your local parts store on the cheap, too, but don't get the adapters there. No pack of 6 and each will cost you about 10-12 bux!

Another good idea is replacing your knock sensor. It's hard to get at normally, but since you'll have the intake and heads off, it's a few bux and about 5 mins to replace.

*Cough cough* THERMOSTAT HOUSING *cough cough* WATER PUMP *cough cough* HOSES *cough cough*

So simple out of the truck, and one less worry in the foreseeable future.

Oil pressure sensor, temp sender and sensor, timing chain tool...flippin details