4.0 Question ( needs motor )
#1
07-15-2017
4.0 Question ( needs motor )
Hi guys, so one of my trucks has a rear timing chain rattling fairly consistently. I am thinking it has rough 200,000 + kms on it. It is the second motor in the truck. So I am planning on throwing another motor in it with less kms. Need some input.
My truck is 2003 4.0 sohc, 5 speed manual, 4x4. I'd like to get a new motor as i have heard they have fixed the timing chain issues in the newer ones. I tried replacing two of my chain tensioners and the truck still rattles. To me it sounds like the rear cassette is broken and moving around as the rattle stays. At idle youll hear it rattle about every 10 seconds and when driving it rattles about every 4-5 seconds.
What year motors will work in my truck? Do i need the computer as well or just the motor? Does it have to be mated to a standard tranny like my current one?
My plan is to buy a good motor with less mileage and swap it in. Then the work I got in the truck now, I plan to keep and strip down and rebuild myself for a learning curve. I bought a full timing chain kit however I am still a noob when it comes to motor work.
Also anything else I should do in there or replace while the motor is out?
I plan on replacing all clutch parts and painting the block.
My truck is 2003 4.0 sohc, 5 speed manual, 4x4. I'd like to get a new motor as i have heard they have fixed the timing chain issues in the newer ones. I tried replacing two of my chain tensioners and the truck still rattles. To me it sounds like the rear cassette is broken and moving around as the rattle stays. At idle youll hear it rattle about every 10 seconds and when driving it rattles about every 4-5 seconds.
What year motors will work in my truck? Do i need the computer as well or just the motor? Does it have to be mated to a standard tranny like my current one?
My plan is to buy a good motor with less mileage and swap it in. Then the work I got in the truck now, I plan to keep and strip down and rebuild myself for a learning curve. I bought a full timing chain kit however I am still a noob when it comes to motor work.
Also anything else I should do in there or replace while the motor is out?
I plan on replacing all clutch parts and painting the block.
#2
07-16-2017
Mine is a three litre, but I've been here a for a little bit now.
Look for cracks on the head from over heating between the valves in the head.
Here's a photo from another thread what to look for.
The 4 litres can't tolerate being over heated, not even once.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/4-0l-o...2/#post2122531
Scroll to the bottom of post 26, and click on the left thumb nail.
Notice the crack between the valves where the cast iron is at it's thinnest.
Look for cracks on the head from over heating between the valves in the head.
Here's a photo from another thread what to look for.
The 4 litres can't tolerate being over heated, not even once.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/4-0l-o...2/#post2122531
Scroll to the bottom of post 26, and click on the left thumb nail.
Notice the crack between the valves where the cast iron is at it's thinnest.
#3
07-17-2017
4.0l SOHC engines had the timing chain issues from 1997(explorer only) to 2004/5 model year, so best bet is a 2006 to 2012 4.0l SOHC replacement
Although pulling out current engine and putting in the newer designed timing chain parts would fix the problem and be less expensive
Either way you have to pull out the engine so.....................up to you really
New Tensioners help before you hear any sounds, once you can hear it the cassette is damaged, only replacement is an option at that time.
Rear main seal needs to be replaced on any engine while it is out
4.0l OHV engine(1990-2000) had the weak head casting that cracked when over heated
Although pulling out current engine and putting in the newer designed timing chain parts would fix the problem and be less expensive
Either way you have to pull out the engine so.....................up to you really
New Tensioners help before you hear any sounds, once you can hear it the cassette is damaged, only replacement is an option at that time.
Rear main seal needs to be replaced on any engine while it is out
4.0l OHV engine(1990-2000) had the weak head casting that cracked when over heated
#4
07-18-2017
4.0l SOHC engines had the timing chain issues from 1997(explorer only) to 2004/5 model year, so best bet is a 2006 to 2012 4.0l SOHC replacement
Although pulling out current engine and putting in the newer designed timing chain parts would fix the problem and be less expensive
Either way you have to pull out the engine so.....................up to you really
New Tensioners help before you hear any sounds, once you can hear it the cassette is damaged, only replacement is an option at that time.
Rear main seal needs to be replaced on any engine while it is out
4.0l OHV engine(1990-2000) had the weak head casting that cracked when over heated
Although pulling out current engine and putting in the newer designed timing chain parts would fix the problem and be less expensive
Either way you have to pull out the engine so.....................up to you really
New Tensioners help before you hear any sounds, once you can hear it the cassette is damaged, only replacement is an option at that time.
Rear main seal needs to be replaced on any engine while it is out
4.0l OHV engine(1990-2000) had the weak head casting that cracked when over heated
#5
07-18-2017
There were no major redesigns of the 4.0l SOHC engines from 1997 to 2011, only change was the timing chain tensioners and cassettes.
The flaw in the timing chains from what I have read was the pre-tension springs in the tensioners.
On startup the springs are the only tension to keep chains tight, if springs didn't provide enough tension the chain would beat on the guides wearing them down over time.
From the first startup at the factory to when the rattle starts.
So changing to the newer tensioners can certainly extend the life of the worn guides but damage was done even before you hear it, after you hear the rattle the guide is broken.
Can't speak to reoccurring problems after new timing chain setup is installed, I can say more last than fail, because many 1997 to 2004/5 4.0l SOHC had the timing chains redone, and there are many less "redos" I read about.
After startup oil pressure takes over to hold tension on the chains, so before pulling out the engine I might check oil pressure with a gauge, cold idle and then warm idle to see if new oil pump may be needed.
Or if there are worn bearings causing lower pressure.
Oil pressure is Back Pressure, oil that can not be used.
Oil pump sends a Volume of oil to filter and then to the Main oil passage, the oil then travels out to the smaller passages and holes to cool and lube the surfaces inside the engine.
The oil that can't flow out backs up in the main passage and thats Oil Pressure
If a bearing starts to wear down then more oil can flow out so oil pressure drops.
I would suspect the rear timing chain tensioner is feed oil with the same passage as the rear jack shaft bearing, although I can say that for sure.
If that bearing started to wear then oil pressure at the tensioner would be less than optimal, but you would see that on oil pressure test.
Generally warm oil pressure should be 8-10psi at idle, under 20psi is fine.
Oil pressure is like Blood Pressure, too low is not good and too HIGH is not good either.
If oil pressure is too high at idle then it could mean blocked passages or wrong oil pump.
High oil pressure at a bearing causes "wash out", the high pressure actually blows off the oil coating on bearing surface.
There were never any known head gasket issues with the 4.0l SOHC engines.
Any engine suffers any number of maladies that effect things with this many moving parts, so yes engines do break, some, well ALL, lol, have known weak points common only to that engine model.
Internally the 4.0l SOHC had the timing chain issue
Sensor and control wiring changes over the years, so with earlier or later model engines it is best to swap over intakes since that is where the most wiring is on fuel injected engine.
That way all the connectors and wire lengths match up
The flaw in the timing chains from what I have read was the pre-tension springs in the tensioners.
On startup the springs are the only tension to keep chains tight, if springs didn't provide enough tension the chain would beat on the guides wearing them down over time.
From the first startup at the factory to when the rattle starts.
So changing to the newer tensioners can certainly extend the life of the worn guides but damage was done even before you hear it, after you hear the rattle the guide is broken.
Can't speak to reoccurring problems after new timing chain setup is installed, I can say more last than fail, because many 1997 to 2004/5 4.0l SOHC had the timing chains redone, and there are many less "redos" I read about.
After startup oil pressure takes over to hold tension on the chains, so before pulling out the engine I might check oil pressure with a gauge, cold idle and then warm idle to see if new oil pump may be needed.
Or if there are worn bearings causing lower pressure.
Oil pressure is Back Pressure, oil that can not be used.
Oil pump sends a Volume of oil to filter and then to the Main oil passage, the oil then travels out to the smaller passages and holes to cool and lube the surfaces inside the engine.
The oil that can't flow out backs up in the main passage and thats Oil Pressure
If a bearing starts to wear down then more oil can flow out so oil pressure drops.
I would suspect the rear timing chain tensioner is feed oil with the same passage as the rear jack shaft bearing, although I can say that for sure.
If that bearing started to wear then oil pressure at the tensioner would be less than optimal, but you would see that on oil pressure test.
Generally warm oil pressure should be 8-10psi at idle, under 20psi is fine.
Oil pressure is like Blood Pressure, too low is not good and too HIGH is not good either.
If oil pressure is too high at idle then it could mean blocked passages or wrong oil pump.
High oil pressure at a bearing causes "wash out", the high pressure actually blows off the oil coating on bearing surface.
There were never any known head gasket issues with the 4.0l SOHC engines.
Any engine suffers any number of maladies that effect things with this many moving parts, so yes engines do break, some, well ALL, lol, have known weak points common only to that engine model.
Internally the 4.0l SOHC had the timing chain issue
Sensor and control wiring changes over the years, so with earlier or later model engines it is best to swap over intakes since that is where the most wiring is on fuel injected engine.
That way all the connectors and wire lengths match up
Last edited by RonD; 07-18-2017 at 10:03 AM.
#6
07-19-2017
There were no major redesigns of the 4.0l SOHC engines from 1997 to 2011, only change was the timing chain tensioners and cassettes.
The flaw in the timing chains from what I have read was the pre-tension springs in the tensioners.
On startup the springs are the only tension to keep chains tight, if springs didn't provide enough tension the chain would beat on the guides wearing them down over time.
From the first startup at the factory to when the rattle starts.
So changing to the newer tensioners can certainly extend the life of the worn guides but damage was done even before you hear it, after you hear the rattle the guide is broken.
Can't speak to reoccurring problems after new timing chain setup is installed, I can say more last than fail, because many 1997 to 2004/5 4.0l SOHC had the timing chains redone, and there are many less "redos" I read about.
After startup oil pressure takes over to hold tension on the chains, so before pulling out the engine I might check oil pressure with a gauge, cold idle and then warm idle to see if new oil pump may be needed.
Or if there are worn bearings causing lower pressure.
Oil pressure is Back Pressure, oil that can not be used.
Oil pump sends a Volume of oil to filter and then to the Main oil passage, the oil then travels out to the smaller passages and holes to cool and lube the surfaces inside the engine.
The oil that can't flow out backs up in the main passage and thats Oil Pressure
If a bearing starts to wear down then more oil can flow out so oil pressure drops.
I would suspect the rear timing chain tensioner is feed oil with the same passage as the rear jack shaft bearing, although I can say that for sure.
If that bearing started to wear then oil pressure at the tensioner would be less than optimal, but you would see that on oil pressure test.
Generally warm oil pressure should be 8-10psi at idle, under 20psi is fine.
Oil pressure is like Blood Pressure, too low is not good and too HIGH is not good either.
If oil pressure is too high at idle then it could mean blocked passages or wrong oil pump.
High oil pressure at a bearing causes "wash out", the high pressure actually blows off the oil coating on bearing surface.
There were never any known head gasket issues with the 4.0l SOHC engines.
Any engine suffers any number of maladies that effect things with this many moving parts, so yes engines do break, some, well ALL, lol, have known weak points common only to that engine model.
Internally the 4.0l SOHC had the timing chain issue
Sensor and control wiring changes over the years, so with earlier or later model engines it is best to swap over intakes since that is where the most wiring is on fuel injected engine.
That way all the connectors and wire lengths match up
The flaw in the timing chains from what I have read was the pre-tension springs in the tensioners.
On startup the springs are the only tension to keep chains tight, if springs didn't provide enough tension the chain would beat on the guides wearing them down over time.
From the first startup at the factory to when the rattle starts.
So changing to the newer tensioners can certainly extend the life of the worn guides but damage was done even before you hear it, after you hear the rattle the guide is broken.
Can't speak to reoccurring problems after new timing chain setup is installed, I can say more last than fail, because many 1997 to 2004/5 4.0l SOHC had the timing chains redone, and there are many less "redos" I read about.
After startup oil pressure takes over to hold tension on the chains, so before pulling out the engine I might check oil pressure with a gauge, cold idle and then warm idle to see if new oil pump may be needed.
Or if there are worn bearings causing lower pressure.
Oil pressure is Back Pressure, oil that can not be used.
Oil pump sends a Volume of oil to filter and then to the Main oil passage, the oil then travels out to the smaller passages and holes to cool and lube the surfaces inside the engine.
The oil that can't flow out backs up in the main passage and thats Oil Pressure
If a bearing starts to wear down then more oil can flow out so oil pressure drops.
I would suspect the rear timing chain tensioner is feed oil with the same passage as the rear jack shaft bearing, although I can say that for sure.
If that bearing started to wear then oil pressure at the tensioner would be less than optimal, but you would see that on oil pressure test.
Generally warm oil pressure should be 8-10psi at idle, under 20psi is fine.
Oil pressure is like Blood Pressure, too low is not good and too HIGH is not good either.
If oil pressure is too high at idle then it could mean blocked passages or wrong oil pump.
High oil pressure at a bearing causes "wash out", the high pressure actually blows off the oil coating on bearing surface.
There were never any known head gasket issues with the 4.0l SOHC engines.
Any engine suffers any number of maladies that effect things with this many moving parts, so yes engines do break, some, well ALL, lol, have known weak points common only to that engine model.
Internally the 4.0l SOHC had the timing chain issue
Sensor and control wiring changes over the years, so with earlier or later model engines it is best to swap over intakes since that is where the most wiring is on fuel injected engine.
That way all the connectors and wire lengths match up
Also I noticed while moving my truck with the rear timing chain issue , the oil pressure was dropping pretty irradically. Could this be signs of a different issue ? Thanks !
#7
07-19-2017
There is no oil pressure gauge on Ford vehicles after 1988
Gauge is either at 1/4 to 1/2 or off, a light bulb, any movement of that needle is voltage change in the whole system, just FYI
Yes if oil gauge was dropping to 0(off) then pressure was falling below 5psi so not good
You don't need a 4.0l SOHC from a 4WD, it has the added balancer shaft(anti-vibration), a 2WD engine will be fine
You do need to change the intake because YOUR 2003 wiring harness probably won't match up to an earlier or later model intake
Intake has the fuel injectors so not changing alot of stuff.
And you have to take off the upper intake in any case to lift the engine.
1997 to 2011 used the same injectors but newer models so connectors sometimes changed, so a 19# 2003 Bosch injector might have a different connector than a 2008 #19 Bosch injectors
yes, it would make things much easier if EVERYONE stuck to the same part and connector every year for the life of a model of vehicle, but they don't
Gauge is either at 1/4 to 1/2 or off, a light bulb, any movement of that needle is voltage change in the whole system, just FYI
Yes if oil gauge was dropping to 0(off) then pressure was falling below 5psi so not good
You don't need a 4.0l SOHC from a 4WD, it has the added balancer shaft(anti-vibration), a 2WD engine will be fine
You do need to change the intake because YOUR 2003 wiring harness probably won't match up to an earlier or later model intake
Intake has the fuel injectors so not changing alot of stuff.
And you have to take off the upper intake in any case to lift the engine.
1997 to 2011 used the same injectors but newer models so connectors sometimes changed, so a 19# 2003 Bosch injector might have a different connector than a 2008 #19 Bosch injectors
yes, it would make things much easier if EVERYONE stuck to the same part and connector every year for the life of a model of vehicle, but they don't
#8
07-19-2017
There is no oil pressure gauge on Ford vehicles after 1988
Gauge is either at 1/4 to 1/2 or off, a light bulb, any movement of that needle is voltage change in the whole system, just FYI
Yes if oil gauge was dropping to 0(off) then pressure was falling below 5psi so not good
You don't need a 4.0l SOHC from a 4WD, it has the added balancer shaft(anti-vibration), a 2WD engine will be fine
You do need to change the intake because YOUR 2003 wiring harness probably won't match up to an earlier or later model intake
Intake has the fuel injectors so not changing alot of stuff.
And you have to take off the upper intake in any case to lift the engine.
1997 to 2011 used the same injectors but newer models so connectors sometimes changed, so a 19# 2003 Bosch injector might have a different connector than a 2008 #19 Bosch injectors
yes, it would make things much easier if EVERYONE stuck to the same part and connector every year for the life of a model of vehicle, but they don't
Gauge is either at 1/4 to 1/2 or off, a light bulb, any movement of that needle is voltage change in the whole system, just FYI
Yes if oil gauge was dropping to 0(off) then pressure was falling below 5psi so not good
You don't need a 4.0l SOHC from a 4WD, it has the added balancer shaft(anti-vibration), a 2WD engine will be fine
You do need to change the intake because YOUR 2003 wiring harness probably won't match up to an earlier or later model intake
Intake has the fuel injectors so not changing alot of stuff.
And you have to take off the upper intake in any case to lift the engine.
1997 to 2011 used the same injectors but newer models so connectors sometimes changed, so a 19# 2003 Bosch injector might have a different connector than a 2008 #19 Bosch injectors
yes, it would make things much easier if EVERYONE stuck to the same part and connector every year for the life of a model of vehicle, but they don't
#9
07-19-2017
Just look at your engine, take lots of picture, of wiring connectors and vacuum hoses, as you disassemble
Then do the same on the new engine, you may not have to change anything.
But be prepared to change things, budget for gaskets
The only time I EVER had an engine swapped with everything matching up and no extra work at all, was when new car spun main bearing and GM swapped it for me under warranty, lol
Other than that, be prepared
Wife was driving the car, oil light came on then a few other lights, when she got home it was smoking a bit and VERY hot.
Asked her what had happened, she didn't know but said some lights had come on, had to cycle key on and off to get her to pick which ones, she was annoyed by this, lol, but figured out it was oil level then oil pressure lights
After cool down I found seized engine, and no oil in the engine
I ask why she didn't pull over and call me.
She said "in this day and age if it was THAT IMPORTANT they would have added a bell or verbal warning or something NOT JUST A LIGHT, cars "talk now""
Can't argue with that logic, well not safely
Oil filter housing cracked and pumped out all the oil
Then do the same on the new engine, you may not have to change anything.
But be prepared to change things, budget for gaskets
The only time I EVER had an engine swapped with everything matching up and no extra work at all, was when new car spun main bearing and GM swapped it for me under warranty, lol
Other than that, be prepared
Wife was driving the car, oil light came on then a few other lights, when she got home it was smoking a bit and VERY hot.
Asked her what had happened, she didn't know but said some lights had come on, had to cycle key on and off to get her to pick which ones, she was annoyed by this, lol, but figured out it was oil level then oil pressure lights
After cool down I found seized engine, and no oil in the engine
I ask why she didn't pull over and call me.
She said "in this day and age if it was THAT IMPORTANT they would have added a bell or verbal warning or something NOT JUST A LIGHT, cars "talk now""
Can't argue with that logic, well not safely
Oil filter housing cracked and pumped out all the oil
Last edited by RonD; 07-19-2017 at 08:35 PM.
#10
07-20-2017
Just look at your engine, take lots of picture, of wiring connectors and vacuum hoses, as you disassemble
Then do the same on the new engine, you may not have to change anything.
But be prepared to change things, budget for gaskets
The only time I EVER had an engine swapped with everything matching up and no extra work at all, was when new car spun main bearing and GM swapped it for me under warranty, lol
Other than that, be prepared
Wife was driving the car, oil light came on then a few other lights, when she got home it was smoking a bit and VERY hot.
Asked her what had happened, she didn't know but said some lights had come on, had to cycle key on and off to get her to pick which ones, she was annoyed by this, lol, but figured out it was oil level then oil pressure lights
After cool down I found seized engine, and no oil in the engine
I ask why she didn't pull over and call me.
She said "in this day and age if it was THAT IMPORTANT they would have added a bell or verbal warning or something NOT JUST A LIGHT, cars "talk now""
Can't argue with that logic, well not safely
Oil filter housing cracked and pumped out all the oil
Then do the same on the new engine, you may not have to change anything.
But be prepared to change things, budget for gaskets
The only time I EVER had an engine swapped with everything matching up and no extra work at all, was when new car spun main bearing and GM swapped it for me under warranty, lol
Other than that, be prepared
Wife was driving the car, oil light came on then a few other lights, when she got home it was smoking a bit and VERY hot.
Asked her what had happened, she didn't know but said some lights had come on, had to cycle key on and off to get her to pick which ones, she was annoyed by this, lol, but figured out it was oil level then oil pressure lights
After cool down I found seized engine, and no oil in the engine
I ask why she didn't pull over and call me.
She said "in this day and age if it was THAT IMPORTANT they would have added a bell or verbal warning or something NOT JUST A LIGHT, cars "talk now""
Can't argue with that logic, well not safely
Oil filter housing cracked and pumped out all the oil
My truck also has a hard time getting into 1st and reverse gear most times. I am thinking its just the clutch / slave acting up which is why i will be replacing both as well. I have done all the bleeding procedures for the slave to no avail.
#11
07-23-2017
Much difference in a 01 4.0 sohc from a ranger vs my current 03 4.0? I found a full truck still running and the order claims the motor was rebuilt by ford. debating on buying it for the motor. Just wondering if i should be looking for a 06 newer mainly?
Also wheres the best place to buy a timing chain kit for a rebuild?
Also wheres the best place to buy a timing chain kit for a rebuild?
Last edited by NLBurden; 07-23-2017 at 06:00 PM.
#12
07-25-2017
#13
07-28-2017
4.0l SOHC engines had the timing chain issues from 1997(explorer only) to 2004/5 model year, so best bet is a 2006 to 2012 4.0l SOHC replacement
Although pulling out current engine and putting in the newer designed timing chain parts would fix the problem and be less expensive
Either way you have to pull out the engine so.....................up to you really
New Tensioners help before you hear any sounds, once you can hear it the cassette is damaged, only replacement is an option at that time.
Rear main seal needs to be replaced on any engine while it is out
4.0l OHV engine(1990-2000) had the weak head casting that cracked when over heated
Although pulling out current engine and putting in the newer designed timing chain parts would fix the problem and be less expensive
Either way you have to pull out the engine so.....................up to you really
New Tensioners help before you hear any sounds, once you can hear it the cassette is damaged, only replacement is an option at that time.
Rear main seal needs to be replaced on any engine while it is out
4.0l OHV engine(1990-2000) had the weak head casting that cracked when over heated
pulled my first motor today. Was very happy to see it out lol ! Thanks for all the advice everyone. also I noticed last time the truck was running the head gasket looked like it was leaking oil. It was on the driver side behind the exhaust manifold.
so today I found a motor I plan on buying. 2008 b4000 4.0 , with low mileage , (65,000kms) . I think I'm going to pull the trigger on this one. They'll sell it bolt in ready for me. Hopefully I don't have much trouble with using this year motor. I heard the newer ones are fly by wire accelerator , which I don't know anything about.
#14
07-28-2017
Rangers/Mazda B4000 never got DBW(drive by wire) throttle bodies, Explorers did, so no worries there.
DBW has an electric motor on the throttle plate, and a sensor on the gas pedal, so no more throttle cable, when you press down on gas pedal computer "sees" that and opens throttle using the electric motor control, should be "speed up and slow down by wire", SUASDBW, lol.
Because the REAL DBW is electric steering, yes, its been out for awhile, and there have been problems
Started off as Power assist using electric motor instead of pump and fluid
Then they moved to no steering shaft, steering wheel has a sensor and computer adjusts electric steering according to driver input, and its had a few problems as well
But all this is needed if we are going to have automated self-driving vehicles
I want one :)
DBW has an electric motor on the throttle plate, and a sensor on the gas pedal, so no more throttle cable, when you press down on gas pedal computer "sees" that and opens throttle using the electric motor control, should be "speed up and slow down by wire", SUASDBW, lol.
Because the REAL DBW is electric steering, yes, its been out for awhile, and there have been problems
Started off as Power assist using electric motor instead of pump and fluid
Then they moved to no steering shaft, steering wheel has a sensor and computer adjusts electric steering according to driver input, and its had a few problems as well
But all this is needed if we are going to have automated self-driving vehicles
I want one :)
Last edited by RonD; 07-28-2017 at 08:17 PM.
#15
07-30-2017
Rangers/Mazda B4000 never got DBW(drive by wire) throttle bodies, Explorers did, so no worries there.
DBW has an electric motor on the throttle plate, and a sensor on the gas pedal, so no more throttle cable, when you press down on gas pedal computer "sees" that and opens throttle using the electric motor control, should be "speed up and slow down by wire", SUASDBW, lol.
Because the REAL DBW is electric steering, yes, its been out for awhile, and there have been problems
Started off as Power assist using electric motor instead of pump and fluid
Then they moved to no steering shaft, steering wheel has a sensor and computer adjusts electric steering according to driver input, and its had a few problems as well
But all this is needed if we are going to have automated self-driving vehicles
I want one :)
DBW has an electric motor on the throttle plate, and a sensor on the gas pedal, so no more throttle cable, when you press down on gas pedal computer "sees" that and opens throttle using the electric motor control, should be "speed up and slow down by wire", SUASDBW, lol.
Because the REAL DBW is electric steering, yes, its been out for awhile, and there have been problems
Started off as Power assist using electric motor instead of pump and fluid
Then they moved to no steering shaft, steering wheel has a sensor and computer adjusts electric steering according to driver input, and its had a few problems as well
But all this is needed if we are going to have automated self-driving vehicles
I want one :)
1) so with using the 08 motor in my 03, other then reusing the intake manifold , most connectors should work. If fuel injectors are different , what would I need for converting the connector ?
2) you mentioned a 2wd drive engine will work fine, my truck is 5 speed manual. If I get a motor from a automatic do I need to change anything ? Will that pilot bearing be the same ?
3) also I plan on painting the full block that I buy , and replacing seals. Do you recommend any engine paint in particular? Spray can or brush on ?
Thanks ! Will post up some progress picks soon
#16
07-30-2017
You don't "convert" connectors, you swap the part for that connector, so if injectors use a different connector swap over '03 injectors, but they should come over with the intake in any case
Change Knock sensor, it is under the intake
No difference between manual or automatic engines, just swap your flywheel over but change rear main seal first, keep track of any shims on or behind flywheel they need to be swapped over as well
Spray paint is fine, depends on overspray issues with other parts and masking them off.
Brush on can be easier if there will be alot of masking to do
Change Knock sensor, it is under the intake
No difference between manual or automatic engines, just swap your flywheel over but change rear main seal first, keep track of any shims on or behind flywheel they need to be swapped over as well
Spray paint is fine, depends on overspray issues with other parts and masking them off.
Brush on can be easier if there will be alot of masking to do
#17
07-31-2017
You don't "convert" connectors, you swap the part for that connector, so if injectors use a different connector swap over '03 injectors, but they should come over with the intake in any case
Change Knock sensor, it is under the intake
No difference between manual or automatic engines, just swap your flywheel over but change rear main seal first, keep track of any shims on or behind flywheel they need to be swapped over as well
Spray paint is fine, depends on overspray issues with other parts and masking them off.
Brush on can be easier if there will be alot of masking to do
Change Knock sensor, it is under the intake
No difference between manual or automatic engines, just swap your flywheel over but change rear main seal first, keep track of any shims on or behind flywheel they need to be swapped over as well
Spray paint is fine, depends on overspray issues with other parts and masking them off.
Brush on can be easier if there will be alot of masking to do
This connector is on the newer motor
https://ibb.co/jGpzh5
this connector is on my truck
https://ibb.co/hpcc25
#18
07-31-2017
#19
07-31-2017
I'm a bit dumb still with motors , however I think i understand what you mean. So basically when I buy the 2008 motor , I need to take all of the wiring off that 2008 motor. Then put my 2003 motor harness onto the new 2008 engine? When I took my intake manifold off there wasn't a whole lot of wires on it , are you referring to the injector connectors ? I know I seem quite dumb which is why I ask a lot. Just want to make sure everything will work before I throw 700$ at the newer motor. At least it has 62,000 kms on it and comes with a warranty lol. Thanks again!! Have a good day
#20
07-31-2017
So Basically what im not understanding is what to do with the harness. I had another look today at the motor to make sure i have a idea of what you're talking about. I thought the big harness was part of the motor but its just clipped onto the motor. One part of the big harness runs along the passenger side up on top of my tranny. The other side of that big harness goes into the firewall through the driverside. I have attached pictures.
Also note the destroyed pilot bearing..
Thanks for all the help As well. I will be sure to return the favor on this forum.
Also note the destroyed pilot bearing..
Thanks for all the help As well. I will be sure to return the favor on this forum.
#21
08-01-2017
Yes, the big connector is Ford's version of Plug n' Play, but doesn't really work well if they change the connector type and wiring every few years, lol.
The existing engine wiring on the 2003 should be unplugged and pulled out of the way, lots of photos, lol.
Yes, there is block wiring(crank sensor) even oil pan wiring(oil level and pressure) maybe even starter motor wire, alternator wiring, cam sensor and knock sensor that are not on the intake
Each year can be different
Intake wiring is TPS(throttle), IAC Valve, temp sensor/sender and injectors for the most part
The '08 may have only 1 temp sensor on thermostat housing, and the '03 two, sensor AND sender, you need to stick with the two or temp gauge in the dash won't work
Yes, those needle bearings work better inside a sleeve, lol
How does the tip of the input shaft look?
The existing engine wiring on the 2003 should be unplugged and pulled out of the way, lots of photos, lol.
Yes, there is block wiring(crank sensor) even oil pan wiring(oil level and pressure) maybe even starter motor wire, alternator wiring, cam sensor and knock sensor that are not on the intake
Each year can be different
Intake wiring is TPS(throttle), IAC Valve, temp sensor/sender and injectors for the most part
The '08 may have only 1 temp sensor on thermostat housing, and the '03 two, sensor AND sender, you need to stick with the two or temp gauge in the dash won't work
Yes, those needle bearings work better inside a sleeve, lol
How does the tip of the input shaft look?
#22
08-02-2017
Output shaft looks pretty good still. Pilot bearing is gone for sure, I do got a full clutch on the way including slave cylinder. Going to pick the engine up tomorrow. Feeling pretty confident after your clarifications. Yes I noticed the thermostat will have one sensor, I'll reuse my old 03 thermostat housing. Other then possibly the fuel injectors I'm thinking it will be plug n play. I'm gonna take everything off the new 08 motor and then put my 03 sensors onto the 08 motor.
Will update on how it goes
Will update on how it goes
#23
08-04-2017
Well , I got the new motor today! The guys also cut off and removed one side exhaust manifold. So ill have to reuse my old one. Other then that, time to start the project! Will be updating with how it goes and posting a full detail of anything I have trouble with or have to change.
Last edited by NLBurden; 08-04-2017 at 04:42 PM.
#24
08-05-2017
Okay time for a question. Also not sure why my pictures upload upside lol.. Anyways.
Got the flywheel off both engines. The new engine was bolted to a automatic. So i noticed on the automatic it has a spacer on it. However when I took off the flywheel off my original engine, there was no spacer. I assume I have to bolt it in with no spacer like my original engine was. However I want to ask to make sure.
Also I see the rear main seal there, do I just pop it out with a pick set? And with the flywheel off, how do i go about changing out the pilot bearing? Do i need to have it pressed out?
Thanks all. Going to paint the new engine shortly. Also I noticed this engine has stamped on it 2009, and it has a ford oil filter on it so im hoping it was all serviced at ford
Got the flywheel off both engines. The new engine was bolted to a automatic. So i noticed on the automatic it has a spacer on it. However when I took off the flywheel off my original engine, there was no spacer. I assume I have to bolt it in with no spacer like my original engine was. However I want to ask to make sure.
Also I see the rear main seal there, do I just pop it out with a pick set? And with the flywheel off, how do i go about changing out the pilot bearing? Do i need to have it pressed out?
Thanks all. Going to paint the new engine shortly. Also I noticed this engine has stamped on it 2009, and it has a ford oil filter on it so im hoping it was all serviced at ford
Last edited by NLBurden; 08-05-2017 at 12:25 PM.
#25
08-05-2017
