Big Oil Leak
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From: Austin, TX
Thanks for the reply Jeff.
I must say I'm starting to feel extremely overwhelmed with the task I've taken on so I'm having to take a step back and remind myself it can all be put back together! I bought this truck as a beater to learn on and it's suddenly got real expensive real quick!
Cars are money pits, you got yours cheap because the owner knew what it was going to take to get it running properly.
I just spent 3400.00$ on mine doing a complete engine rebuild.
Yes I need to learn this quickly. I hope at the end of this I have a reliable car I can enjoy
I visually checked for cracks but I didn't see any. My plan was to ask the machine shop to check for cracks first before doing any work. The passenger side head did just get new valves etc (less than 500 miles ago) so should I be replacing these with the same valves I'm putting in the drivers side? Would different brands of valves cause any sort of unbalance?
If you're sure the valves are new on the passenger side, then leave them. You can visually check for cracks, but the machine shop does this with a strong magnet and iron filings, the filings show up on any cracks _ much more accurate.
Have them check the surfaces of both heads, that's most important.
You can have them pressure tested too, more money, but piece of mind.
I took a rag earlier today and soaked it in oil and wiped down the bores. I'll see if I have a spray can next. If they did get surface rust on them is that a big issue that involves taking the block to the shop or would it remove itself as soon as the engine started up?
Don't get too caught up with rusty bores, using your oily rag is fine. I like to use spray only because it's more convenient and the spray gets into the rings better. Like I said WD40 is fine for this and it's cheap.
I will pick up some WD-40 to have on hand, Thanks!
In terms of cleaning the block mating surface I was just going to use a utility blade to get the worst off. Then some steel wool, use a dremel with a polish pad on it then some carb cleaner. Would that do the trick to get them clean for a nice mating surface?
Use a plastic putty knife, don't use any metal tools that will "nick" the block surface. Scuff pads are better then steel wool. Steel wool leaves steel crumbs everywhere and you don't want that.
Put rags in the bores so you don't get crap in there. Be carful when you pull the rags out so as not to have the stuff fall into the bores or get back into the bore that you just pulled the rag out.
An air compressor here is very useful for cleaning the bores if you have one.
Use brake cleaner right from the beginning to soften the gunk on the block, lacquer thinner also works well, but very smelly.
Great! I am assuming I can just use a shop vac as I am cleaning to prevent as much as possible going into the bores with the rags. I fear when I pull the rags out the crap will fall in.
Ok I'll take a look at the push rods and see if I can see through them. The truck has clearly not been well cared for in the past so I expect them to be clogged.
I've tried searching YouTube for videos on removing the lifters but there doesn't seem to be a huge selection of videos on the subject. The only one I can find is for a different vehicle but they just use a magnet to pop them out. Is it really that easy to get them out? I also read mixed reviews saying putting new lifters on an old cam can cause failures. Is there any truth to that? People are suggesting a new can but at this point it would almost be a new engine.
The lifters are just siting in there, they will have varnish build up on the outside, so they may not come out easily. Work them back and forth with WD40 and they will eventually come out.
This engine uses roller lifters, so cam wear will be minimal, nothing to worry about using new lifters.
Great, I think I may just replace them while I am there! I would hate to have one go after all this.
This is going to sound really silly, but do I order the parts such as valves etc and take them to the machine shop or do they supply the parts? I live in Austin Tx and having a hard time finding any shop that will even call me back. Is there any disadvantages to getting a fully returned head opposed to machining my one? I appreciate you sending links to the parts over.
Take your heads into the machine shop and discuss it with them. Very often it can be less expensive to get a head ready to go with new valves and guides. Machine shops can get the bits for you or you can supply the parts. If they supply the parts and something goes wrong, then it's on their head, but costs more because they have to warranty it.
One other question I had. I'm the intake manifold some of the studs to mount the plastic intake on to have had the tops rounded. I wanted to replace them but it seems impossible to find the correct studs. I've seen some people just buy a threaded bar from the hardware store and cut it to length. Is that really the only option? I just have the replacement gasket in my set but it's not causing an issue presently so I'm not sure if I should just leave it.
Ford should be able to order new studs, but expensive. Maybe the auto wrecker. That ready-rod stuff is usually made of cheap soft steel, don't use that. You may be able to get a high quality long bolt and make you own stud from that.
Take some pictures of the rounded studs and I should be able to help you with that.
I have attached a pic of the studs I mean. I read some forum posts (mostly on the ranger station) of ford no longer producing them. As I say they work fine but I can't change the gasket without taking them out and they are really rounded
Finally can I ask your opinion on the cam sensor. Is it something I should replace while I have everything out. It looks a nightmare to replace when the intake manifold is in place but it's also running nearly $150 for the unit with the sensor. I've read quite a few post of people replacing them due to them chirping and would like to be proactive. I'm just getting concerned I'm spending nearly as much on the truck on repairs as I paid for it.
If the synchronizer (the mechanical part) has no side to side play in it, then you can re-use it. It's OK to work some oil on the sleeve bearing if it's dry and noisey _ I use Tri-Flow every 6 months to a year to keep mine lubricated.
When I had it out I sat it in a bucket of light oil for an hour. I was just worried that I rebuild all this and then it goes and I cannot get back into it without taking the intake manifold off.
As always, you have no idea how much I appreciate the plain simple responses I'm getting! I'm keen to learn and hope one day I can be the guy offering advice.
Don't get too caught up in all of this, it will all come together.
Just be carful when cleaning the block surface not to damage it, don't use the Dremel tool for any thing.
Ok, I will put the dremal away
I must say I'm starting to feel extremely overwhelmed with the task I've taken on so I'm having to take a step back and remind myself it can all be put back together! I bought this truck as a beater to learn on and it's suddenly got real expensive real quick!
Cars are money pits, you got yours cheap because the owner knew what it was going to take to get it running properly.
I just spent 3400.00$ on mine doing a complete engine rebuild.
Yes I need to learn this quickly. I hope at the end of this I have a reliable car I can enjoy
I visually checked for cracks but I didn't see any. My plan was to ask the machine shop to check for cracks first before doing any work. The passenger side head did just get new valves etc (less than 500 miles ago) so should I be replacing these with the same valves I'm putting in the drivers side? Would different brands of valves cause any sort of unbalance?
If you're sure the valves are new on the passenger side, then leave them. You can visually check for cracks, but the machine shop does this with a strong magnet and iron filings, the filings show up on any cracks _ much more accurate.
Have them check the surfaces of both heads, that's most important.
You can have them pressure tested too, more money, but piece of mind.
I took a rag earlier today and soaked it in oil and wiped down the bores. I'll see if I have a spray can next. If they did get surface rust on them is that a big issue that involves taking the block to the shop or would it remove itself as soon as the engine started up?
Don't get too caught up with rusty bores, using your oily rag is fine. I like to use spray only because it's more convenient and the spray gets into the rings better. Like I said WD40 is fine for this and it's cheap.
I will pick up some WD-40 to have on hand, Thanks!
In terms of cleaning the block mating surface I was just going to use a utility blade to get the worst off. Then some steel wool, use a dremel with a polish pad on it then some carb cleaner. Would that do the trick to get them clean for a nice mating surface?
Use a plastic putty knife, don't use any metal tools that will "nick" the block surface. Scuff pads are better then steel wool. Steel wool leaves steel crumbs everywhere and you don't want that.
Put rags in the bores so you don't get crap in there. Be carful when you pull the rags out so as not to have the stuff fall into the bores or get back into the bore that you just pulled the rag out.
An air compressor here is very useful for cleaning the bores if you have one.
Use brake cleaner right from the beginning to soften the gunk on the block, lacquer thinner also works well, but very smelly.
Great! I am assuming I can just use a shop vac as I am cleaning to prevent as much as possible going into the bores with the rags. I fear when I pull the rags out the crap will fall in.
Ok I'll take a look at the push rods and see if I can see through them. The truck has clearly not been well cared for in the past so I expect them to be clogged.
I've tried searching YouTube for videos on removing the lifters but there doesn't seem to be a huge selection of videos on the subject. The only one I can find is for a different vehicle but they just use a magnet to pop them out. Is it really that easy to get them out? I also read mixed reviews saying putting new lifters on an old cam can cause failures. Is there any truth to that? People are suggesting a new can but at this point it would almost be a new engine.
The lifters are just siting in there, they will have varnish build up on the outside, so they may not come out easily. Work them back and forth with WD40 and they will eventually come out.
This engine uses roller lifters, so cam wear will be minimal, nothing to worry about using new lifters.
Great, I think I may just replace them while I am there! I would hate to have one go after all this.
This is going to sound really silly, but do I order the parts such as valves etc and take them to the machine shop or do they supply the parts? I live in Austin Tx and having a hard time finding any shop that will even call me back. Is there any disadvantages to getting a fully returned head opposed to machining my one? I appreciate you sending links to the parts over.
Take your heads into the machine shop and discuss it with them. Very often it can be less expensive to get a head ready to go with new valves and guides. Machine shops can get the bits for you or you can supply the parts. If they supply the parts and something goes wrong, then it's on their head, but costs more because they have to warranty it.
One other question I had. I'm the intake manifold some of the studs to mount the plastic intake on to have had the tops rounded. I wanted to replace them but it seems impossible to find the correct studs. I've seen some people just buy a threaded bar from the hardware store and cut it to length. Is that really the only option? I just have the replacement gasket in my set but it's not causing an issue presently so I'm not sure if I should just leave it.
Ford should be able to order new studs, but expensive. Maybe the auto wrecker. That ready-rod stuff is usually made of cheap soft steel, don't use that. You may be able to get a high quality long bolt and make you own stud from that.
Take some pictures of the rounded studs and I should be able to help you with that.
I have attached a pic of the studs I mean. I read some forum posts (mostly on the ranger station) of ford no longer producing them. As I say they work fine but I can't change the gasket without taking them out and they are really rounded
Finally can I ask your opinion on the cam sensor. Is it something I should replace while I have everything out. It looks a nightmare to replace when the intake manifold is in place but it's also running nearly $150 for the unit with the sensor. I've read quite a few post of people replacing them due to them chirping and would like to be proactive. I'm just getting concerned I'm spending nearly as much on the truck on repairs as I paid for it.
If the synchronizer (the mechanical part) has no side to side play in it, then you can re-use it. It's OK to work some oil on the sleeve bearing if it's dry and noisey _ I use Tri-Flow every 6 months to a year to keep mine lubricated.
When I had it out I sat it in a bucket of light oil for an hour. I was just worried that I rebuild all this and then it goes and I cannot get back into it without taking the intake manifold off.
As always, you have no idea how much I appreciate the plain simple responses I'm getting! I'm keen to learn and hope one day I can be the guy offering advice.
Don't get too caught up in all of this, it will all come together.
Just be carful when cleaning the block surface not to damage it, don't use the Dremel tool for any thing.
Ok, I will put the dremal away
1997 FORD RANGER 4.0L V6 Cylinder Head | RockAuto
Heads are cheap, you can get a head blank where you supply the new valves and seals and you re-use you springs, collars and keepers.
Or get a complete head where you re-use your rocker arms.
Heads are cheap, you can get a head blank where you supply the new valves and seals and you re-use you springs, collars and keepers.
Or get a complete head where you re-use your rocker arms.
+1 on Jeff's suggestions
Yes, avoid metal cleaning tools on block/head mating surfaces, scotch brite is a good alternative to steel wool.
Unless you are going to leave heads off for a few months don't worry about rust, just wipe it off before assembly.
Only valve springs are removed when replacing valve stem seals, you can do it if you have a valve spring compressor, but if not then let machine shop do it.
Machine shop will pressure check head after cleaning but before surfacing, standard procedure, so any cracks would be found.
There are oil passages in the center of the head/block they feed the Rocker assemblies
Yes, avoid metal cleaning tools on block/head mating surfaces, scotch brite is a good alternative to steel wool.
Unless you are going to leave heads off for a few months don't worry about rust, just wipe it off before assembly.
Only valve springs are removed when replacing valve stem seals, you can do it if you have a valve spring compressor, but if not then let machine shop do it.
Machine shop will pressure check head after cleaning but before surfacing, standard procedure, so any cracks would be found.
There are oil passages in the center of the head/block they feed the Rocker assemblies
I am hoping to have it back together by next week once I clarify a few parts I need.
As I mentioned above and attached the images the head is cracked so I am going to beed to purchase a replacement. I plan on just buying a complete head so I can put it on without having to take it anywhere.
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From: Austin, TX
Oh and one question, I am noticing that the heads advertise round or oval exhaust ports. Is that something I need to worry about?
I have been reading a lot about aftermarket vs OEM and don't see a clear route to go. If I go to a local breaker yard and pick up a used head and have it polished, valves etc etc it will cost the same as a new aftermarket one but will be oem. As I understand it can be from a Ranger or Explorer as long as they are both a 4.0 OHV. Does the year matter? I was planning on taking my head along with me and comparing it. Unless you guys recommend an aftermarket head?
I have been reading a lot about aftermarket vs OEM and don't see a clear route to go. If I go to a local breaker yard and pick up a used head and have it polished, valves etc etc it will cost the same as a new aftermarket one but will be oem. As I understand it can be from a Ranger or Explorer as long as they are both a 4.0 OHV. Does the year matter? I was planning on taking my head along with me and comparing it. Unless you guys recommend an aftermarket head?
Last edited by dottm; Jul 6, 2017 at 03:47 PM.
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From: Austin, TX
Melling sells them in sets of 4 for only 32 bucks _ so 32 x 3=96 _ cheap piece of mind.
1997 FORD RANGER 4.0L V6 Valve Lifter | RockAuto
1997 FORD RANGER 4.0L V6 Valve Lifter | RockAuto
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From: BC Canada
Their just lifters, they not made out of gold.
I would be surprised if that 32$ was for just one lifter.
And about the exhaust ports _ round or oval; you'll have to find out about that your self, or Ron should be able to answer that one.
The cracked head indicates with out a doubt that the engine was over heated. Apparently the 4 litre heads can't tolerate any amount of over-heating.
I would have the other head checked for cracks even though new valves were put in.
From the looks of the scale in the block, I would say the rad is probably the same.
The scale and rust was more then likely the cause of over heating.
Lack of maintenance and too much sitting around with out driving...
Stay away from breaker yards when it comes to cylinder heads.
You don't know what problems you might by inheriting from another engine _ more cracks...
You pretty much have no warranty, 10 miles or 10 minutes, which ever comes first.
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Jul 6, 2017 at 10:39 PM.
Center bolt hole for rocker assembly has the oiler hole, but thats in the center of the head not at an end where oil was leaking.
I think the oil comes up from block beside one of the head bolts, intake side one of the two center bolts
There are also the two drains at each end of the head that drain oil back into the valley.
If there was some debris in that corner of the head when it was put on then oil could have seeped out at the end,
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From: Austin, TX
That seems excessive, contact Rock-Auto and find out for sure.
Their just lifters, they not made out of gold.
I would be surprised if that 32$ was for just one lifter.
And about the exhaust ports _ round or oval; you'll have to find out about that your self, or Ron should be able to answer that one.
The cracked head indicates with out a doubt that the engine was over heated. Apparently the 4 litre heads can't tolerate any amount of over-heating.
I would have the other head checked for cracks even though new valves were put in.
From the looks of the scale in the block, I would say the rad is probably the same.
The scale and rust was more then likely the cause of over heating.
Lack of maintenance and too much sitting around with out driving...
Stay away from breaker yards when it comes to cylinder heads.
You don't know what problems you might by inheriting from another engine _ more cracks...
You pretty much have no warranty, 10 miles or 10 minutes, which ever comes first.
Their just lifters, they not made out of gold.
I would be surprised if that 32$ was for just one lifter.
And about the exhaust ports _ round or oval; you'll have to find out about that your self, or Ron should be able to answer that one.
The cracked head indicates with out a doubt that the engine was over heated. Apparently the 4 litre heads can't tolerate any amount of over-heating.
I would have the other head checked for cracks even though new valves were put in.
From the looks of the scale in the block, I would say the rad is probably the same.
The scale and rust was more then likely the cause of over heating.
Lack of maintenance and too much sitting around with out driving...
Stay away from breaker yards when it comes to cylinder heads.
You don't know what problems you might by inheriting from another engine _ more cracks...
You pretty much have no warranty, 10 miles or 10 minutes, which ever comes first.
Is there anything I can do to flush out the radiator and block of the rust buildup? I know it sat for at least a couple of years and the old owner had just used water at some point.
Ok, is there any recommended after market heads? Should I replace both heads or can I run one oem and one aftermarket? A local breaker yard has them available for $60 and I thought if I bought it and had it checked for cracks and compression tested then it would be ok.
One cylinder head I seen was by Promaxx and it was a cast iron head which was said to be stronger. Do you have any thoughts on that? I'm just nervous about aftermarket heads as I've seen threads where people say they havnt even lasted 5k.
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From: BC Canada
The Engine Tech lifters are 11.80$ a piece.
Soaking lifters in thin oil doesn't work, they have to be taken apart and physically cleaned. If they are heavily varnished up internally, then getting them apart will be nearly impossible.
Mine were so bad, I had to heat them up with an acetylene torch before the internal piston would come out.
The ones that I've seen have a snap ring that holds the whole thing together, but the ones for your truck don't appear to have any snap ring.
However, that doesn't mean they don't come apart.
You could just re-use them too.
If you get a head from the wrecker and it checks out that there are no cracks or leaks, then you still may have to deal with worn guides and valves.
Reconditioned heads are from old stock, so you should be fine _ stay away from new heads as they can be made in China.
I thought they were all cast iron, are some aluminum ?
Promaxx _ do you have a link ? Never heard of them.
EDIT:
They do come apart, but it's tedious job and you need an air compressor.
I also just realized too that you have a rocker arm shaft, that will have to be taken apart, cleaned and inspected for wear on the rocker shaft and the bearings that come in contact with the shaft.
In the video he points out worn rocker arms too _ look for that as well.
If these are worn, they can be reconditioned at a machine shop.
Soaking lifters in thin oil doesn't work, they have to be taken apart and physically cleaned. If they are heavily varnished up internally, then getting them apart will be nearly impossible.
Mine were so bad, I had to heat them up with an acetylene torch before the internal piston would come out.
The ones that I've seen have a snap ring that holds the whole thing together, but the ones for your truck don't appear to have any snap ring.
However, that doesn't mean they don't come apart.
You could just re-use them too.
If you get a head from the wrecker and it checks out that there are no cracks or leaks, then you still may have to deal with worn guides and valves.
Reconditioned heads are from old stock, so you should be fine _ stay away from new heads as they can be made in China.
I thought they were all cast iron, are some aluminum ?
Promaxx _ do you have a link ? Never heard of them.
EDIT:
They do come apart, but it's tedious job and you need an air compressor.
I also just realized too that you have a rocker arm shaft, that will have to be taken apart, cleaned and inspected for wear on the rocker shaft and the bearings that come in contact with the shaft.
In the video he points out worn rocker arms too _ look for that as well.
If these are worn, they can be reconditioned at a machine shop.
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Jul 7, 2017 at 08:35 AM.
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From: Austin, TX
The Engine Tech lifters are 11.80$ a piece.
Soaking lifters in thin oil doesn't work, they have to be taken apart and physically cleaned. If they are heavily varnished up internally, then getting them apart will be nearly impossible.
Mine were so bad, I had to heat them up with an acetylene torch before the internal piston would come out.
The ones that I've seen have a snap ring that holds the whole thing together, but the ones for your truck don't appear to have any snap ring.
However, that doesn't mean they don't come apart.
You could just re-use them too.
If you get a head from the wrecker and it checks out that there are no cracks or leaks, then you still may have to deal with worn guides and valves.
Reconditioned heads are from old stock, so you should be fine _ stay away from new heads as they can be made in China.
I thought they were all cast iron, are some aluminum ?
Promaxx _ do you have a link ? Never heard of them.
Soaking lifters in thin oil doesn't work, they have to be taken apart and physically cleaned. If they are heavily varnished up internally, then getting them apart will be nearly impossible.
Mine were so bad, I had to heat them up with an acetylene torch before the internal piston would come out.
The ones that I've seen have a snap ring that holds the whole thing together, but the ones for your truck don't appear to have any snap ring.
However, that doesn't mean they don't come apart.
You could just re-use them too.
If you get a head from the wrecker and it checks out that there are no cracks or leaks, then you still may have to deal with worn guides and valves.
Reconditioned heads are from old stock, so you should be fine _ stay away from new heads as they can be made in China.
I thought they were all cast iron, are some aluminum ?
Promaxx _ do you have a link ? Never heard of them.
I found the shop that done the passenger side head with new valves etc etc (all done less than 500 miles ago) so my plan was going to be to get a head from the breakers and take it to him to machine and do new valves on. That way it would be the same valves etc on both sides (Im not sure it even matters but I would feel better them matching). I would just have them check for cracks first as the salvage yard has a 30 day return policy. Plus its more practice taking a head off a junk car! I was thinking I could get some of the intake stubs I can't find also.
One other question Jeff, the manifold bolts were rusted on bad. I got all but one off and had to take it to an exhaust shop where they got it off for me. I would like to buy replacement exhaust manifold bolts (4 bolts and 2 nuts per side) but I don't see them on Rock Auto, Am I just missing them or is there somewhere else I can buy them?
The premix heads are here:
FORD 4.0 L NEW COMPLETE
All the reviews seem positive but I am just worried about aftermarket heads having to come back off in a few thousand miles. Apparently they are connected in some way to the old alabama head company which I see tons of old threads raving about them but have since closed down from copyright issues as I understand.
Thanks again for all you help and advice!
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From: BC Canada
You can also buy 4 lifters for 14.90$ a piece _ click on the drop down box.
Ford should have your bolts, but you can just buy new bolts at a machine shop or auto parts store, just make sure that they're good quality, they'll have markings on the top.
Ask at the counter and tell them what you're using them for.
All the auto parts stores that I come across only sell high strength bolts anyway.
Bolts from a hardware store are usually soft and junky.
If you plan on dealing with worn guides and valves etc. on a used head from an auto wrecker, then that should be fine.
I wouldn't touch that new head from ProMaxx.
Doesn't matter if the valves match, but it doesn't hurt.
Ford should have your bolts, but you can just buy new bolts at a machine shop or auto parts store, just make sure that they're good quality, they'll have markings on the top.
Ask at the counter and tell them what you're using them for.
All the auto parts stores that I come across only sell high strength bolts anyway.
Bolts from a hardware store are usually soft and junky.
If you plan on dealing with worn guides and valves etc. on a used head from an auto wrecker, then that should be fine.
I wouldn't touch that new head from ProMaxx.
Doesn't matter if the valves match, but it doesn't hurt.
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You can also buy 4 lifters for 14.90$ a piece _ click on the drop down box.
Ford should have your bolts, but you can just buy new bolts at a machine shop or auto parts store, just make sure that they're good quality, they'll have markings on the top.
Ask at the counter and tell them what you're using them for.
All the auto parts stores that I come across only sell high strength bolts anyway.
Bolts from a hardware store are usually soft and junky.
If you plan on dealing with worn guides and valves etc. on a used head from an auto wrecker, then that should be fine.
I wouldn't touch that new head from ProMaxx.
Doesn't matter if the valves match, but it doesn't hurt.
Ford should have your bolts, but you can just buy new bolts at a machine shop or auto parts store, just make sure that they're good quality, they'll have markings on the top.
Ask at the counter and tell them what you're using them for.
All the auto parts stores that I come across only sell high strength bolts anyway.
Bolts from a hardware store are usually soft and junky.
If you plan on dealing with worn guides and valves etc. on a used head from an auto wrecker, then that should be fine.
I wouldn't touch that new head from ProMaxx.
Doesn't matter if the valves match, but it doesn't hurt.
Is there something you noticed not the ProMaxx that you don't like? or just the fact its an aftermarket head?
I was trying to get valve cover bolts from the auto parts store and none of the 3 big chains stocked them which I was surprised at. I ended up buying some from the hardware store which seem to work fine. I figured I would just layer them with anti-seeze paste when I put them in incase they are softer. I will try again with the exhaust bolts, i just thought somewhere like RockAuto would have stocked them.
Thanks for that, I see that option now. I wonder why there is such a price difference.... I will add 12 of them to my cart now.
One more question if you don't mind. Given how rusty the coolant passages look, and the fact the head has probably been overheated and cracked. Should I replace the water pump? From what I gather it doesn't look that complicated a job to do...
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From: BC Canada
Is there something you noticed not the ProMaxx that you don't like? or just the fact its an aftermarket head?
It's just that's an after market head, where it's made and quality control can be issues.
One more question if you don't mind. Given how rusty the coolant passages look, and the fact the head has probably been overheated and cracked. Should I replace the water pump? From what I gather it doesn't look that complicated a job to do...
Might be a good idea since it has been over heated.
And about the rust in the block, like my 3 litre, there probably isn't any drain holes, so it will be a pain to flush the block.
Some use CLR and just water running it through and changing it weekly until the water drains clear, but I've never tried that.
There are rad flush products out there, but they don't seem to work that well.
It's just that's an after market head, where it's made and quality control can be issues.
One more question if you don't mind. Given how rusty the coolant passages look, and the fact the head has probably been overheated and cracked. Should I replace the water pump? From what I gather it doesn't look that complicated a job to do...
Might be a good idea since it has been over heated.
And about the rust in the block, like my 3 litre, there probably isn't any drain holes, so it will be a pain to flush the block.
Some use CLR and just water running it through and changing it weekly until the water drains clear, but I've never tried that.
There are rad flush products out there, but they don't seem to work that well.
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From: Austin, TX
Is there something you noticed not the ProMaxx that you don't like? or just the fact its an aftermarket head?
It's just that's an after market head, where it's made and quality control can be issues.
One more question if you don't mind. Given how rusty the coolant passages look, and the fact the head has probably been overheated and cracked. Should I replace the water pump? From what I gather it doesn't look that complicated a job to do...
Might be a good idea since it has been over heated.
And about the rust in the block, like my 3 litre, there probably isn't any drain holes, so it will be a pain to flush the block.
Some use CLR and just water running it through and changing it weekly until the water drains clear, but I've never tried that.
There are rad flush products out there, but they don't seem to work that well.
It's just that's an after market head, where it's made and quality control can be issues.
One more question if you don't mind. Given how rusty the coolant passages look, and the fact the head has probably been overheated and cracked. Should I replace the water pump? From what I gather it doesn't look that complicated a job to do...
Might be a good idea since it has been over heated.
And about the rust in the block, like my 3 litre, there probably isn't any drain holes, so it will be a pain to flush the block.
Some use CLR and just water running it through and changing it weekly until the water drains clear, but I've never tried that.
There are rad flush products out there, but they don't seem to work that well.
Im off to the salvage yard today to see what I can find. Fingers crossed I get a decent head and can get the shop to check it over and get her back on the road in the next couple of weeks. I am sure I will have more questions along the way!
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Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,023
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From: BC Canada
You're going to be filling and flushing water in and out of the engine over many days or even weeks, don't waste your money on distilled water yet.
Distilled water is used on your final fill up when you use your anti-freeze.
Just use tap water for now until the water runs out clear.
Tap water is fine for the flushing process, things don't get rusty or corroded that fast when using water only for a few weeks.
And about over heating with just water, water by itself is probably the best coolant out there, it's "wetter" then a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze, so water alone has better heat transferring properties then a 50/50 mix of coolant and water.
Even though coolant mixed with water will lower the boiling point, water will work for now.
You're in Austin Texas, so it's very unlikely that it will freeze in July. :-)
I'm not sure how easy it is to remove the thermostat, but what you can also do after a few days, is take out the thermostat and remove the bottom rad hose.
Put the garden hose in the thermostat housing and run water through the block.
While the water is running connect up the bottom hose and allow it to over flow, remove the hose again and allow the water to rush out.
This process of filling and flushing will help to get rid of the trapped bits of rust in the block.
You'll get your self good and soaked and the engine bay will get wet, but it is summer time.
Distilled water is used on your final fill up when you use your anti-freeze.
Just use tap water for now until the water runs out clear.
Tap water is fine for the flushing process, things don't get rusty or corroded that fast when using water only for a few weeks.
And about over heating with just water, water by itself is probably the best coolant out there, it's "wetter" then a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze, so water alone has better heat transferring properties then a 50/50 mix of coolant and water.
Even though coolant mixed with water will lower the boiling point, water will work for now.
You're in Austin Texas, so it's very unlikely that it will freeze in July. :-)
I'm not sure how easy it is to remove the thermostat, but what you can also do after a few days, is take out the thermostat and remove the bottom rad hose.
Put the garden hose in the thermostat housing and run water through the block.
While the water is running connect up the bottom hose and allow it to over flow, remove the hose again and allow the water to rush out.
This process of filling and flushing will help to get rid of the trapped bits of rust in the block.
You'll get your self good and soaked and the engine bay will get wet, but it is summer time.
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Jul 7, 2017 at 11:00 AM.
+1 ^^^
Although Jeff meant to says adding coolant raises boiling point of water.
Tap water will have minerals(salts) in it, and so can start corroding/rusting metal parts inside cooling system, over the YEARS, not days, months or weeks, so it is fine to use in engines until you are satisfied there are no problems or leaks.
Coolant has water pump lube, and raise the PH in the system to prevent corrosion, also has a higher boiling point so 50/50 gets you 235 deg boiling point vs 212 deg of water, with no pressure, most coolant also has some form of alcohol in it so it lowers the Freezing point, anti-freeze.
If you mix tap water with coolant the minerals(salts) lowers the PH a bit so less corrosion protection, distilled water has no minerals(salts) so won't effect the PH.
Distilled water is not "bottled" water, it still has minerals in it, they even add some, lol.
Distilled water is boiled and the steam is collected which is fairly pure water with no minerals(salts)
Although Jeff meant to says adding coolant raises boiling point of water.
Tap water will have minerals(salts) in it, and so can start corroding/rusting metal parts inside cooling system, over the YEARS, not days, months or weeks, so it is fine to use in engines until you are satisfied there are no problems or leaks.
Coolant has water pump lube, and raise the PH in the system to prevent corrosion, also has a higher boiling point so 50/50 gets you 235 deg boiling point vs 212 deg of water, with no pressure, most coolant also has some form of alcohol in it so it lowers the Freezing point, anti-freeze.
If you mix tap water with coolant the minerals(salts) lowers the PH a bit so less corrosion protection, distilled water has no minerals(salts) so won't effect the PH.
Distilled water is not "bottled" water, it still has minerals in it, they even add some, lol.
Distilled water is boiled and the steam is collected which is fairly pure water with no minerals(salts)
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 52
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From: Austin, TX
Hi Guys,
thabks for tre info on the anti-freeza. I'll sit down and re-read tonight. I'm just at the salvage yard now and found a 99 explorer 4.0 ohv that looks in great shape with 100k on it. I'm about to start pulling he head off just now but had a couple of questions:
1. Im assuming the 99 will work fine on my 97 ranger?
2. From what I understand the heads are not side orientated. The passenger head is much easier to get off and wanted to make sure it would go on my drivers side.
3. Im assuming there isn't a problem running one 97 head and one 99 head?
thanks
scott
thabks for tre info on the anti-freeza. I'll sit down and re-read tonight. I'm just at the salvage yard now and found a 99 explorer 4.0 ohv that looks in great shape with 100k on it. I'm about to start pulling he head off just now but had a couple of questions:
1. Im assuming the 99 will work fine on my 97 ranger?
2. From what I understand the heads are not side orientated. The passenger head is much easier to get off and wanted to make sure it would go on my drivers side.
3. Im assuming there isn't a problem running one 97 head and one 99 head?
thanks
scott
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 52
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From: Austin, TX
Hi Guys,
thabks for tre info on the anti-freeza. I'll sit down and re-read tonight. I'm just at the salvage yard now and found a 99 explorer 4.0 ohv that looks in great shape with 100k on it. I'm about to start pulling he head off just now but had a couple of questions:
1. Im assuming the 99 will work fine on my 97 ranger?
2. From what I understand the heads are not side orientated. The passenger head is much easier to get off and wanted to make sure it would go on my drivers side.
3. Im assuming there isn't a problem running one 97 head and one 99 head?
thanks
scott
thabks for tre info on the anti-freeza. I'll sit down and re-read tonight. I'm just at the salvage yard now and found a 99 explorer 4.0 ohv that looks in great shape with 100k on it. I'm about to start pulling he head off just now but had a couple of questions:
1. Im assuming the 99 will work fine on my 97 ranger?
2. From what I understand the heads are not side orientated. The passenger head is much easier to get off and wanted to make sure it would go on my drivers side.
3. Im assuming there isn't a problem running one 97 head and one 99 head?
thanks
scott
i did notice it only had one fuel line on the intake manifold so I assume this it was a non return fuel setup.
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Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 52
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From: Austin, TX
just to add it's a 99 explorer 4.0 and I have a 97 ranger. I checked the 8th digit of the vin and hey we're both X (I'm not sure if that makes a difference but i read it somewhere. I've held them together and they look the same.
i did notice it only had one fuel line on the intake manifold so I assume this it was a non return fuel setup.
i did notice it only had one fuel line on the intake manifold so I assume this it was a non return fuel setup.
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Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 52
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From: Austin, TX
Ok, so I went to the salvage yard today and pulled the head off a 99 Ford Explorer (A mistake I realized afterwards as the exhaust ports are smaller). I am going to go back tomorrow and attempt to get the correct head. They didn't have many rangers there (I don't think a single 4.0 ranger. But a ton of explorers. I wondered if I could ask the following:
1. I understand they are not side specific. So I can use a passenger or drivers side head. Is that correct?
2. What year of explorer has a compatible head? As I learned today a 99 does not match with a 97 so I want to avoid that mistake again. From memory I believe they had a 96 explorer. Would that be compatible?
Also thanks for the advice on the coolant/water. I have bought a new thermostat anyway which I plan to install. I will try to flush the coolant every week or so until it runs clear and then flush with the proper stuff.
Ron, I was confused by your last comment:
Distilled water is not "bottled" water, it still has minerals in it, they even add some, lol.
Distilled water is boiled and the steam is collected which is fairly pure water with no minerals(salts)
Can you clarify as it looks like you meant something other than distilled water for one of them?
Thanks
Scott
1. I understand they are not side specific. So I can use a passenger or drivers side head. Is that correct?
2. What year of explorer has a compatible head? As I learned today a 99 does not match with a 97 so I want to avoid that mistake again. From memory I believe they had a 96 explorer. Would that be compatible?
Also thanks for the advice on the coolant/water. I have bought a new thermostat anyway which I plan to install. I will try to flush the coolant every week or so until it runs clear and then flush with the proper stuff.
Ron, I was confused by your last comment:
Distilled water is not "bottled" water, it still has minerals in it, they even add some, lol.
Distilled water is boiled and the steam is collected which is fairly pure water with no minerals(salts)
Can you clarify as it looks like you meant something other than distilled water for one of them?
Thanks
Scott
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 44
From: BC Canada
I'm pretty sure that the heads are not side specific, on my 3 litre they are interchangeable.
It wouldn't make sense from a cost point of view to make a specific left and right side.
About the different exhaust ports, that can't I can't answer.
Rock Auto shows the same part number (Enginetech) fitting all three, your Ranger and the 99 and 96 Explorer.
So I don't have any idea what's going on there.
Odd that the wrecking yard doesn't know.
EDIT:
Found this, I don't know how accurate this info is, it's just another forum, but there are a lot of differences.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...stions.246789/
It wouldn't make sense from a cost point of view to make a specific left and right side.
About the different exhaust ports, that can't I can't answer.
Rock Auto shows the same part number (Enginetech) fitting all three, your Ranger and the 99 and 96 Explorer.
So I don't have any idea what's going on there.
Odd that the wrecking yard doesn't know.
EDIT:
Found this, I don't know how accurate this info is, it's just another forum, but there are a lot of differences.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...stions.246789/
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Jul 7, 2017 at 10:54 PM.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 52
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From: Austin, TX
I'm pretty sure that the heads are not side specific, on my 3 litre they are interchangeable.
It wouldn't make sense from a cost point of view to make a specific left and right side.
About the different exhaust ports, that can't I can't answer.
Rock Auto shows the same part number (Enginetech) fitting all three, your Ranger and the 99 and 96 Explorer.
So I don't have any idea what's going on there.
Odd that the wrecking yard doesn't know.
EDIT:
Found this, I don't know how accurate this info is, it's just another forum, but there are a lot of differences.
4.0L OHV Cylinder Heads questions | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
It wouldn't make sense from a cost point of view to make a specific left and right side.
About the different exhaust ports, that can't I can't answer.
Rock Auto shows the same part number (Enginetech) fitting all three, your Ranger and the 99 and 96 Explorer.
So I don't have any idea what's going on there.
Odd that the wrecking yard doesn't know.
EDIT:
Found this, I don't know how accurate this info is, it's just another forum, but there are a lot of differences.
4.0L OHV Cylinder Heads questions | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
I have since found another yard that will pull the part and looks like they have a compatible head. I did however manage to get the intake studs I was after so not a complete waste of a day.
Thanks for the replies and enjoy the weekend!
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 44
From: BC Canada
Looks like things are coming together, but not out of the woods yet.
My biggest concern is the condition of the block _ should be OK though.
When an engine over heats, the head(s) take the brunt of the heat.
Heat rises and of course most of it ends up on the exhaust valves and with no coolant in that area, things get hot very fast.
That's why the heads crack when pushed too far, the cast iron expands to the point where it cracks.
The intake and exhaust valves are very close together on the 4 litre head _ there's very little cast iron there.
So once the coolant level drops, that area heats up very quick and cracks happen.
Engine blocks are not as susceptible simply because there is more metal and thus, less weak points to crack.
Plus the fact all the heat is in the head area, so when an engine does over heat, it will usually stop before the block is damaged.
If you keep on driving it, the fuel evaporates so fast that it doesn't even get into the combustion chambers to burn.
That's that phony Hollywood knocking sound you hear when a car breaks down.
I don't know how you can stand working out in really hot days like that _ maybe you're used to it.
You're phone shut down because it was too hot !!?? Didn't think that could happen !
The hottest it's ever been here in the shade is 32, that's only 89.6 degrees, and that's no where near your 100 degrees !
I can tolerate 24 or 25, but not 30...
I don't know how you manage ?
It's pretty cool here on the West Coast though, we wear shorts and a sweat shirts when it's 15 (60 degrees).
People from California freeze their *** of at 60 degrees and look at the rest of use like we have holes in our heads.
My biggest concern is the condition of the block _ should be OK though.
When an engine over heats, the head(s) take the brunt of the heat.
Heat rises and of course most of it ends up on the exhaust valves and with no coolant in that area, things get hot very fast.
That's why the heads crack when pushed too far, the cast iron expands to the point where it cracks.
The intake and exhaust valves are very close together on the 4 litre head _ there's very little cast iron there.
So once the coolant level drops, that area heats up very quick and cracks happen.
Engine blocks are not as susceptible simply because there is more metal and thus, less weak points to crack.
Plus the fact all the heat is in the head area, so when an engine does over heat, it will usually stop before the block is damaged.
If you keep on driving it, the fuel evaporates so fast that it doesn't even get into the combustion chambers to burn.
That's that phony Hollywood knocking sound you hear when a car breaks down.
I don't know how you can stand working out in really hot days like that _ maybe you're used to it.
You're phone shut down because it was too hot !!?? Didn't think that could happen !
The hottest it's ever been here in the shade is 32, that's only 89.6 degrees, and that's no where near your 100 degrees !
I can tolerate 24 or 25, but not 30...
I don't know how you manage ?
It's pretty cool here on the West Coast though, we wear shorts and a sweat shirts when it's 15 (60 degrees).
People from California freeze their *** of at 60 degrees and look at the rest of use like we have holes in our heads.
Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 650
Likes: 1
From: Lake Worth
I tried to read all the post on this thread yet I found it difficult to get caught up on all of it.
From what I can tell, you had or have a oil leak that was misdiagnosed and a rear main seal was installed.
At that time you also pulled the oil pan.
Did you find a lot of sludge in the oil pan and or strainer?
Did you remove and clean the strainer?
As you now know, oil leaks at cylinder heads happen, some engines are worse than others.
The only oil that flows through you cylinder head is oil that is draining back to the pan.
The rocker arms only get oil from the lifters.
looking at the pictures of your block and head gaskets, you will need to do your best to clean these passages out.
once you get the block nice and clean, and the heads and intake back on, with the drain plug removed on the pan, pour some clean but cheap engine oil on the heads and down these drains to make sure they drain properly.
If the drains are restricted you may end up with another leak.
If the other guys haven't suggested this, I would run the engine once assembled with obviously fresh oil and a filter for no longer than 20 minutes provided you have good oil pressure.
then I would change the oil and filter once you are satisfied you have no leaks and all seems well with the engine oil pressure and temperature.
The I would change the oil and filter again after 500 to 1000 miles depending on how the oil looked and smelled.
I say change the oil like this because of the amount of sludge that is in this engine.
From what I can tell, you had or have a oil leak that was misdiagnosed and a rear main seal was installed.
At that time you also pulled the oil pan.
Did you find a lot of sludge in the oil pan and or strainer?
Did you remove and clean the strainer?
As you now know, oil leaks at cylinder heads happen, some engines are worse than others.
The only oil that flows through you cylinder head is oil that is draining back to the pan.
The rocker arms only get oil from the lifters.
looking at the pictures of your block and head gaskets, you will need to do your best to clean these passages out.
once you get the block nice and clean, and the heads and intake back on, with the drain plug removed on the pan, pour some clean but cheap engine oil on the heads and down these drains to make sure they drain properly.
If the drains are restricted you may end up with another leak.
If the other guys haven't suggested this, I would run the engine once assembled with obviously fresh oil and a filter for no longer than 20 minutes provided you have good oil pressure.
then I would change the oil and filter once you are satisfied you have no leaks and all seems well with the engine oil pressure and temperature.
The I would change the oil and filter again after 500 to 1000 miles depending on how the oil looked and smelled.
I say change the oil like this because of the amount of sludge that is in this engine.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Looks like things are coming together, but not out of the woods yet.
My biggest concern is the condition of the block _ should be OK though.
When an engine over heats, the head(s) take the brunt of the heat.
Heat rises and of course most of it ends up on the exhaust valves and with no coolant in that area, things get hot very fast.
That's why the heads crack when pushed too far, the cast iron expands to the point where it cracks.
The intake and exhaust valves are very close together on the 4 litre head _ there's very little cast iron there.
So once the coolant level drops, that area heats up very quick and cracks happen.
Engine blocks are not as susceptible simply because there is more metal and thus, less weak points to crack.
Plus the fact all the heat is in the head area, so when an engine does over heat, it will usually stop before the block is damaged.
If you keep on driving it, the fuel evaporates so fast that it doesn't even get into the combustion chambers to burn.
That's that phony Hollywood knocking sound you hear when a car breaks down.
I don't know how you can stand working out in really hot days like that _ maybe you're used to it.
You're phone shut down because it was too hot !!?? Didn't think that could happen !
The hottest it's ever been here in the shade is 32, that's only 89.6 degrees, and that's no where near your 100 degrees !
I can tolerate 24 or 25, but not 30...
I don't know how you manage ?
It's pretty cool here on the West Coast though, we wear shorts and a sweat shirts when it's 15 (60 degrees).
People from California freeze their *** of at 60 degrees and look at the rest of use like we have holes in our heads.
My biggest concern is the condition of the block _ should be OK though.
When an engine over heats, the head(s) take the brunt of the heat.
Heat rises and of course most of it ends up on the exhaust valves and with no coolant in that area, things get hot very fast.
That's why the heads crack when pushed too far, the cast iron expands to the point where it cracks.
The intake and exhaust valves are very close together on the 4 litre head _ there's very little cast iron there.
So once the coolant level drops, that area heats up very quick and cracks happen.
Engine blocks are not as susceptible simply because there is more metal and thus, less weak points to crack.
Plus the fact all the heat is in the head area, so when an engine does over heat, it will usually stop before the block is damaged.
If you keep on driving it, the fuel evaporates so fast that it doesn't even get into the combustion chambers to burn.
That's that phony Hollywood knocking sound you hear when a car breaks down.
I don't know how you can stand working out in really hot days like that _ maybe you're used to it.
You're phone shut down because it was too hot !!?? Didn't think that could happen !
The hottest it's ever been here in the shade is 32, that's only 89.6 degrees, and that's no where near your 100 degrees !
I can tolerate 24 or 25, but not 30...
I don't know how you manage ?
It's pretty cool here on the West Coast though, we wear shorts and a sweat shirts when it's 15 (60 degrees).
People from California freeze their *** of at 60 degrees and look at the rest of use like we have holes in our heads.
Thanks for taking the time to explain the process of overheating the engine and the effects. It does seem like a crazy thin piece of metal between the valves. I'm not sure why ford didn't move the valves a few mm further apart to give a bit more meat between the valves.
I tried to read all the post on this thread yet I found it difficult to get caught up on all of it.
From what I can tell, you had or have a oil leak that was misdiagnosed and a rear main seal was installed.
At that time you also pulled the oil pan.
Did you find a lot of sludge in the oil pan and or strainer?
Did you remove and clean the strainer?
As you now know, oil leaks at cylinder heads happen, some engines are worse than others.
The only oil that flows through you cylinder head is oil that is draining back to the pan.
The rocker arms only get oil from the lifters.
looking at the pictures of your block and head gaskets, you will need to do your best to clean these passages out.
once you get the block nice and clean, and the heads and intake back on, with the drain plug removed on the pan, pour some clean but cheap engine oil on the heads and down these drains to make sure they drain properly.
If the drains are restricted you may end up with another leak.
If the other guys haven't suggested this, I would run the engine once assembled with obviously fresh oil and a filter for no longer than 20 minutes provided you have good oil pressure.
then I would change the oil and filter once you are satisfied you have no leaks and all seems well with the engine oil pressure and temperature.
The I would change the oil and filter again after 500 to 1000 miles depending on how the oil looked and smelled.
I say change the oil like this because of the amount of sludge that is in this engine.
From what I can tell, you had or have a oil leak that was misdiagnosed and a rear main seal was installed.
At that time you also pulled the oil pan.
Did you find a lot of sludge in the oil pan and or strainer?
Did you remove and clean the strainer?
As you now know, oil leaks at cylinder heads happen, some engines are worse than others.
The only oil that flows through you cylinder head is oil that is draining back to the pan.
The rocker arms only get oil from the lifters.
looking at the pictures of your block and head gaskets, you will need to do your best to clean these passages out.
once you get the block nice and clean, and the heads and intake back on, with the drain plug removed on the pan, pour some clean but cheap engine oil on the heads and down these drains to make sure they drain properly.
If the drains are restricted you may end up with another leak.
If the other guys haven't suggested this, I would run the engine once assembled with obviously fresh oil and a filter for no longer than 20 minutes provided you have good oil pressure.
then I would change the oil and filter once you are satisfied you have no leaks and all seems well with the engine oil pressure and temperature.
The I would change the oil and filter again after 500 to 1000 miles depending on how the oil looked and smelled.
I say change the oil like this because of the amount of sludge that is in this engine.
I've since taken both heads off and found the drivers head has a crack between the valves. So I'm in the process of getting a new head sorted. While I have it all apart I've ordered the following parts:
New Push Rods
New Valve Lifters
New Rocker Arms
New head gaskets
New water Pump
New Camshaft Sync and sensor
When I had the pan off there was no sludge in it, it was actually pretty clean if I'm honest. But when I had the valve covers off etc there was a ton of sludge on the driver valves and middle of the engine. I plugged the gaps to the lower parts of the engine and cleaned the sludge as best as I can. By oil strainer do you mean oil filter? If so I did change that.
What is he best way to clean the oil passages? Should I get some sort of drain cleaner brush and see if I can clean them out?
I have a ton of 5W-20 oil from a car I recently sold. Can I just use that to pour down and flush the engine?
No one had suggested changing the oil after 20 mins but I'll be sure to do it. I've changed the oil 3 times in the last 40 miles as I change it every time I take the intake/valve covers off. It's getting expensive but I don't want to cut corners here.
I had planned to change the oil after 1,000 miles so it's great to have it confirmed I am on the right track. When I look at the engine in so many pieces I get anxious I'm not going to get it all back together. I've spent as much on fixing the truck up as I paid for it in the first month so it's no longer a throw away project. It has to work!
One question I had, how do I change the rocker arms? I think I pop the clip off at the end and then everything should slide off the shaft, is that correct? The springs and arms seem to move freely but the mounting brackets seem much firmer. So I'm not sure if they are just seated well and need a little bit of pressure to pull them off.
Thank you for all the input so far!
Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 650
Likes: 1
From: Lake Worth
The oil pump strainer I mentioned is better known as The oil pump pick up tube.
It contains a screen built into it to prevent large chunks of debris from entering the oil pump.
Here is a link of what one looks like .
When a engine has a lot of sludge in it some of this sludge will end up getting trapped at the bottom of the pan and or sucked up into the oil pick up tube screen- strainer.
As you run the engine normally at higher RPM this sludge and debris if any is present will clog up the screen potently starving the pump and engine of oil.
Anytime I have a oil pan off I make a habit of removing the screen and cleaning it or replacing it.
The only good thing here is you say the inside of the pan was clean. Hopefully the screen is not clogged or partially clogged.
I have attached a generic picture of a clogged pick up tube screen.
If you google ( clogged pick up tube ) and then select pictures in your browser, you will find many pictures of pickups from slightly clogged to full on clogged.
With the evidence of sludge in the top half of the engine and nothing in the pan it is safe to say your pick up has a good chance to be clogged at least partially.
If I were you, I would not do one more thing to this engine until you had a factory service manual.
I think I read somewhere you mentioned buying a Haynes manual.
If this is the case Haynes is better than nothing, but I would still prefer factory information that was specific to the year and engine you are working on.
I would also search through all the relevant TSB's that may apply to the work you are doing. There may be some updated parts or procedures that can save you time and money.
I see the list of parts you plan on replacing and your need for this to work.
I suggest taking a step back and think about what your doing and how much your investing in a 1997 Ranger.
If anything goes wrong it surely will suck.
Going from being a novice to a cylinder head job on a engine with most likely a lot of miles, possibly too many miles to consider only doing the top half of the engine is in my opinion asking for trouble.
If this was my truck and I was dead set on saving it, I would pull the engine and send all the parts to the machine shop and have the machine shop rebuild the engine and return to me a assembled long block.
The reason I say this aside from the mileage and sludge issue and corroded cooling system jacket ( with a high probability of nearly rusted out freeze plugs) , you did not mark the valve train components now you plan on replacing the lifters without doing the camshaft and the rocker arms with out replacing the shaft.
The lifters once you get them out, you will find wear on the bottom side of the lifters and on the cam lobes.
Your camshaft has broken in with those lifters and have lived there for a long time.
Now you want to install new fresh lifters with a old camshaft. ( This has been done in the past by many people over the years ) yet it is something I do not advise.
Especially if you do not take the time to remove the camshaft ,inspect and measure each lobe. also inspect the camshaft bearing mating surface and camshaft bearings.
But if you remove the camshaft it is smart to replace it along with the bearings and timing chain and gears.
If you go through all of this while the engine is still in the truck, you have made your life miserable, killed your back, and still did not do a complete and proper job.
I agree It seems that this simple oil leak has snowballed out of control, but believe me it can get much worse if you trash the engine trying to save it by cutting corners that you do not know your cutting.
If you were to give up now and sell off what you can of this truck in parts.
It would hurt way less than continue doing what your doing and loosing all this time and money.
This being said with the prices of new trucks or buying one that is new enough and well cared for enough is very expensive.
Before you decide what to do, how about inspecting the rest of the truck from front to rear, make a list of anything that needs to be replaced to make the truck safe and reliable.
With this list you will have a idea if your time and money is best spent on a 1997 Ford Ranger.
It contains a screen built into it to prevent large chunks of debris from entering the oil pump.
Here is a link of what one looks like .
When a engine has a lot of sludge in it some of this sludge will end up getting trapped at the bottom of the pan and or sucked up into the oil pick up tube screen- strainer.
As you run the engine normally at higher RPM this sludge and debris if any is present will clog up the screen potently starving the pump and engine of oil.
Anytime I have a oil pan off I make a habit of removing the screen and cleaning it or replacing it.
The only good thing here is you say the inside of the pan was clean. Hopefully the screen is not clogged or partially clogged.
I have attached a generic picture of a clogged pick up tube screen.
If you google ( clogged pick up tube ) and then select pictures in your browser, you will find many pictures of pickups from slightly clogged to full on clogged.
With the evidence of sludge in the top half of the engine and nothing in the pan it is safe to say your pick up has a good chance to be clogged at least partially.
If I were you, I would not do one more thing to this engine until you had a factory service manual.
I think I read somewhere you mentioned buying a Haynes manual.
If this is the case Haynes is better than nothing, but I would still prefer factory information that was specific to the year and engine you are working on.
I would also search through all the relevant TSB's that may apply to the work you are doing. There may be some updated parts or procedures that can save you time and money.
I see the list of parts you plan on replacing and your need for this to work.
I suggest taking a step back and think about what your doing and how much your investing in a 1997 Ranger.
If anything goes wrong it surely will suck.
Going from being a novice to a cylinder head job on a engine with most likely a lot of miles, possibly too many miles to consider only doing the top half of the engine is in my opinion asking for trouble.
If this was my truck and I was dead set on saving it, I would pull the engine and send all the parts to the machine shop and have the machine shop rebuild the engine and return to me a assembled long block.
The reason I say this aside from the mileage and sludge issue and corroded cooling system jacket ( with a high probability of nearly rusted out freeze plugs) , you did not mark the valve train components now you plan on replacing the lifters without doing the camshaft and the rocker arms with out replacing the shaft.
The lifters once you get them out, you will find wear on the bottom side of the lifters and on the cam lobes.
Your camshaft has broken in with those lifters and have lived there for a long time.
Now you want to install new fresh lifters with a old camshaft. ( This has been done in the past by many people over the years ) yet it is something I do not advise.
Especially if you do not take the time to remove the camshaft ,inspect and measure each lobe. also inspect the camshaft bearing mating surface and camshaft bearings.
But if you remove the camshaft it is smart to replace it along with the bearings and timing chain and gears.
If you go through all of this while the engine is still in the truck, you have made your life miserable, killed your back, and still did not do a complete and proper job.
I agree It seems that this simple oil leak has snowballed out of control, but believe me it can get much worse if you trash the engine trying to save it by cutting corners that you do not know your cutting.
If you were to give up now and sell off what you can of this truck in parts.
It would hurt way less than continue doing what your doing and loosing all this time and money.
This being said with the prices of new trucks or buying one that is new enough and well cared for enough is very expensive.
Before you decide what to do, how about inspecting the rest of the truck from front to rear, make a list of anything that needs to be replaced to make the truck safe and reliable.
With this list you will have a idea if your time and money is best spent on a 1997 Ford Ranger.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 52
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From: Austin, TX
The oil pump strainer I mentioned is better known as The oil pump pick up tube.
It contains a screen built into it to prevent large chunks of debris from entering the oil pump.
Here is a link of what one looks like .https://www.amazon.com/Melling-345S-Oil-Pump-Screen/dp/B001C9Z1SO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499674977&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=1997+ford+ranger+4.0+oil+pump+strai ner+pick+up
When a engine has a lot of sludge in it some of this sludge will end up getting trapped at the bottom of the pan and or sucked up into the oil pick up tube screen- strainer.
As you run the engine normally at higher RPM this sludge and debris if any is present will clog up the screen potently starving the pump and engine of oil.
Anytime I have a oil pan off I make a habit of removing the screen and cleaning it or replacing it.
The only good thing here is you say the inside of the pan was clean. Hopefully the screen is not clogged or partially clogged.
I have attached a generic picture of a clogged pick up tube screen.
If you google ( clogged pick up tube ) and then select pictures in your browser, you will find many pictures of pickups from slightly clogged to full on clogged.
With the evidence of sludge in the top half of the engine and nothing in the pan it is safe to say your pick up has a good chance to be clogged at least partially.
If I were you, I would not do one more thing to this engine until you had a factory service manual.
I think I read somewhere you mentioned buying a Haynes manual.
If this is the case Haynes is better than nothing, but I would still prefer factory information that was specific to the year and engine you are working on.
I would also search through all the relevant TSB's that may apply to the work you are doing. There may be some updated parts or procedures that can save you time and money.
I see the list of parts you plan on replacing and your need for this to work.
I suggest taking a step back and think about what your doing and how much your investing in a 1997 Ranger.
If anything goes wrong it surely will suck.
Going from being a novice to a cylinder head job on a engine with most likely a lot of miles, possibly too many miles to consider only doing the top half of the engine is in my opinion asking for trouble.
If this was my truck and I was dead set on saving it, I would pull the engine and send all the parts to the machine shop and have the machine shop rebuild the engine and return to me a assembled long block.
The reason I say this aside from the mileage and sludge issue and corroded cooling system jacket ( with a high probability of nearly rusted out freeze plugs) , you did not mark the valve train components now you plan on replacing the lifters without doing the camshaft and the rocker arms with out replacing the shaft.
The lifters once you get them out, you will find wear on the bottom side of the lifters and on the cam lobes.
Your camshaft has broken in with those lifters and have lived there for a long time.
Now you want to install new fresh lifters with a old camshaft. ( This has been done in the past by many people over the years ) yet it is something I do not advise.
Especially if you do not take the time to remove the camshaft ,inspect and measure each lobe. also inspect the camshaft bearing mating surface and camshaft bearings.
But if you remove the camshaft it is smart to replace it along with the bearings and timing chain and gears.
If you go through all of this while the engine is still in the truck, you have made your life miserable, killed your back, and still did not do a complete and proper job.
I agree It seems that this simple oil leak has snowballed out of control, but believe me it can get much worse if you trash the engine trying to save it by cutting corners that you do not know your cutting.
If you were to give up now and sell off what you can of this truck in parts.
It would hurt way less than continue doing what your doing and loosing all this time and money.
This being said with the prices of new trucks or buying one that is new enough and well cared for enough is very expensive.
Before you decide what to do, how about inspecting the rest of the truck from front to rear, make a list of anything that needs to be replaced to make the truck safe and reliable.
With this list you will have a idea if your time and money is best spent on a 1997 Ford Ranger.
It contains a screen built into it to prevent large chunks of debris from entering the oil pump.
Here is a link of what one looks like .https://www.amazon.com/Melling-345S-Oil-Pump-Screen/dp/B001C9Z1SO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499674977&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=1997+ford+ranger+4.0+oil+pump+strai ner+pick+up
When a engine has a lot of sludge in it some of this sludge will end up getting trapped at the bottom of the pan and or sucked up into the oil pick up tube screen- strainer.
As you run the engine normally at higher RPM this sludge and debris if any is present will clog up the screen potently starving the pump and engine of oil.
Anytime I have a oil pan off I make a habit of removing the screen and cleaning it or replacing it.
The only good thing here is you say the inside of the pan was clean. Hopefully the screen is not clogged or partially clogged.
I have attached a generic picture of a clogged pick up tube screen.
If you google ( clogged pick up tube ) and then select pictures in your browser, you will find many pictures of pickups from slightly clogged to full on clogged.
With the evidence of sludge in the top half of the engine and nothing in the pan it is safe to say your pick up has a good chance to be clogged at least partially.
If I were you, I would not do one more thing to this engine until you had a factory service manual.
I think I read somewhere you mentioned buying a Haynes manual.
If this is the case Haynes is better than nothing, but I would still prefer factory information that was specific to the year and engine you are working on.
I would also search through all the relevant TSB's that may apply to the work you are doing. There may be some updated parts or procedures that can save you time and money.
I see the list of parts you plan on replacing and your need for this to work.
I suggest taking a step back and think about what your doing and how much your investing in a 1997 Ranger.
If anything goes wrong it surely will suck.
Going from being a novice to a cylinder head job on a engine with most likely a lot of miles, possibly too many miles to consider only doing the top half of the engine is in my opinion asking for trouble.
If this was my truck and I was dead set on saving it, I would pull the engine and send all the parts to the machine shop and have the machine shop rebuild the engine and return to me a assembled long block.
The reason I say this aside from the mileage and sludge issue and corroded cooling system jacket ( with a high probability of nearly rusted out freeze plugs) , you did not mark the valve train components now you plan on replacing the lifters without doing the camshaft and the rocker arms with out replacing the shaft.
The lifters once you get them out, you will find wear on the bottom side of the lifters and on the cam lobes.
Your camshaft has broken in with those lifters and have lived there for a long time.
Now you want to install new fresh lifters with a old camshaft. ( This has been done in the past by many people over the years ) yet it is something I do not advise.
Especially if you do not take the time to remove the camshaft ,inspect and measure each lobe. also inspect the camshaft bearing mating surface and camshaft bearings.
But if you remove the camshaft it is smart to replace it along with the bearings and timing chain and gears.
If you go through all of this while the engine is still in the truck, you have made your life miserable, killed your back, and still did not do a complete and proper job.
I agree It seems that this simple oil leak has snowballed out of control, but believe me it can get much worse if you trash the engine trying to save it by cutting corners that you do not know your cutting.
If you were to give up now and sell off what you can of this truck in parts.
It would hurt way less than continue doing what your doing and loosing all this time and money.
This being said with the prices of new trucks or buying one that is new enough and well cared for enough is very expensive.
Before you decide what to do, how about inspecting the rest of the truck from front to rear, make a list of anything that needs to be replaced to make the truck safe and reliable.
With this list you will have a idea if your time and money is best spent on a 1997 Ford Ranger.
Thank you for your comprehensive reply. I understand this is a 97 ranger with little value but I purchased it with the intention of learning and so far I have learnt a ton already. I don't want to buy a new truck, this is a second car for us and the primary car is a reliable newer car.
I appreciate your concern but I'm really not going to part it out presently. I want to get it back together and see if it will run. I know in an ideal world it would make sense to take the bottom end out and get that machined and new parts in but I've read of people getting 300-350k out of these engines. Mine has 175k so if I got 50-100k out of it I would happily rebuild it again fully myself.
I understand there are negatives to replacing the lifters and not the camshaft but it sounds like (from my research at least) that I'm more likely to have issues with the original lifters failing than I am with the camshaft being original on new lifters.
I did clear the oil pickup as that's how I actually got the pan out. I opted to remove the two bolts holding the pickup in place and slide it out so the pan would come out. There was very little ok the mesh filter but I cleaned it up and the rest of the part.
I do have the Haynes manual and prefer it to the shop manuals which are complete jargon for me. The Haynes at least breaks it down to something I can understand so I have a vague idea of what I am doing.
I've ordered the parts I've mentioned, I've spent hours labeling every connector and bolt that came out. I'm hoping it all arrives this week and I can just take my time putting it together and having her run. As I mentioned I'm not expecting like new results because not all components are like new. But I'm hoping it will run oil leak free for a few miles so I can enjoy it.
