like the title says going to try and do my ujoints this weekend on rear driveshaft to try and fix the clunking noise when releasing the clutch that I have already posted about on here and im also going to grease my slip yolk, and even if it doesnt its something that needs to be done eventually anyways with greaseable ones but I had a few questions. First off any tips I should remember, because my truck only has 50,000 miles on it you think id be fine with just doing the rear driveshaft ones for now, can someone post a link to how to and pictures just for reference if I need help? Lastly, does it matter what grease and that I get like for the slip yolf cover or should I go to ford and get theirs. also when I break the clamps on the cover for the slip yolk, what should I use to retighten it, just some circle clamps that I tighten down with a screw driver and should I greaes anything else like the slip that goes into the transmission when reinstalling it. oh one more thing, what are the torque specs for the draveshaft bolts. sorry for the noob questions but this is my first time doing this so im just looking for help and to make sure I properly mark the driveshaft and all so it goes back in fine.

 

There are some good videos on youtube for doing ujoints. When I took my slip yoke apart, I managed to save the clamps that were on there because I wasn't sure if the clamps that you are talking about would throw off balance.

 

im having trouble getting my driveshaft bolts off. the 1/2 inch rachet is too big to fit under there and my 12 mm wrench is only like 5 inches long so I cant get them to budge even with wd 40. what do most people use, 1/4 inch rachet? and even thats only like 6inches long?

 

I threw the rear of the truck up on jackstands for more room, sprayed them with some PB blaster and let soak for a while. I had no problem getting my breaker bar on them.

 

do you think raising up the rear end gave you more room for the rachet. n did u use 1/2 or 3/8 drive rachet n how long is ur bar

 

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That's what she said.

I used a 1/2" ratchet with about a 14" breaker. It does give you more room, but I think I could have pulled it off with the truck on the ground also. Did you try letting them soak for a while?

 

heat up the bolts they have lock tight on them it will melt the lock tight and come out. they are only tqed to 15 lbs from what my book told me.

 

only 15? i just put my truck in gear and tug on the bolts real good with a wrench.

 

trust me its alot more than 15.l i actually think my haynes manual says 75to 90. and also how should I retorque the driveshaft bolts. like i def dont think im going to be able to get my torque wrench on there. just tighten as much as I can beens it took all I could just to break them loose. also should i put some anti seize on them. ohhhh btw both my joints on the rear driveshaft seemed to be fine, still had grease in them and all that so would u joints still be the cause of theat clunk if they are still in good shape. I havent got to regrease the slip yoke yet or put the new u joints back in because it got dark but the slip yoke shaft is at the front of the rear driveshaft so I dont think that would be the cause of the clunk coming by the rear diff would it, or maybe it does because it is what helps it travel in and out???

 

man if i read this earlyer i could of done a how to. i just did this today
it took 20min

 

ill try to get some pict of where to hit the drive shaft they should pop out

 

whats the best way to get the clamps off of the slip yoke boot and to where you can put them back on after you grease them. and im glad it took u 20 min its takin me all day and i havent even got the new ones back in yet.

 

what kind of clamps are they some you have to un bend and not break them some unscrew

 

Make sure you press them in with a vise also. I tried the pound 'em in method once, and then never tried it again.

 

u didnt hit the very top of the circle did you you will bend and make a lip on it causing them to wear and wobble

 

well i finally got the drive shaft back in and everything done. only a few questions, how should I torque them down beens I cant get a torque wrench on them, just get em as close as I can by judging. and I broke the damn band on the slip yoke boot, so what should I use to replace it. I know theres been a debate on circle clamp or zip tie to try and not knock the balance off. Hopefully I did this right beens it was my first time doing it so I guesss ill find out soon.



I edited this but I did finish it but still needing an answer on the above questions. Also it didnt take care of my clunk completly so I guess Ill have to check on the rearend. one more thing, there seems to be a small grinding noise from the front middle of the truck, prolly the front of the rear drive shaft but I know nothing is grinding. It has been raining the entire time I have been doing this job since fri morning early and still is raining as well speak, so oh yes it has been fun NOOOT. but anyways you think that grinding/whistling type nosie is prolly just from the moisture and changing the u joints and all that. maybe wait until everything dries up in a few days, spray some wd 40 on ujionts and that and hopefully that cures it. Has anyone else had any similiar things like this when doing theres. Like I said it has been raining non stop so that type of noise could be coming from anything but I am pretty sure its the driveshaft. and when I put the new joints in wome of the movement was alittle stiff with the joints being brand new so you think thats part of it too???

 

what did you use to replace the yoke (?). Once you pull the drive shaft out doesn't fluid start to leak unless you put a "spare" yoke in?

 

^ It unbolts in the front and rear.

 

thank ya, yes to the person who asked it bolts in rear and front. mines a 4x4 so one to the transfer case, one to the rear diff part. honestly I slid the boot back on after regreasing it and just by the natural tightness it stayed in place without the clamp, not I know this is not a long term fix, I just left it like that to drive in the driveway and neighborhood to see how everything drives out. Just now I am going to need to put some type of clamp device there to hold it so what should I use, zip tie, circle clamp/screw clamp what???? Also the grinding noise went away I think the next time I drove it and really got it up to speed and loosened it up, the only problem is im still having the sound I have been for a while now. I posted it on FRF but didn't get a response. Its a ticking/whistling air type sound. Its coming from behind the dash and engine bay area. I thought it might be a pulley but I checked under the hood and it seems to be coming from the top/back part of the engine but I dont know what it honestly could be, didnt see any cracks or leaks in hoses. only has 50,000 miles so dont see a engine problem occuring. maybe rangers jus have their certain lil pops, sqeeks, and noises like alot of cars, just completly sstock the rangers really quiet so you can here em all. maybe an intake, exhaust, and road noise from BFG AT's then I wouldnt hear any of the lil noises ha.

 

Don't forget to slap 800W of power behind the seats and it will definately take care of itself!