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Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 02-28-2006
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ECTED Questions

OK, I am running the Auburn ECTED in my 8.8 28 spline set up. I just had it installed, and I am a retard/NewB, so go easy on me. I have a few questions:

1. The guy that installed it is pretty respected in the area, and he told me that I should hold off on any long highway driving for the first 1000 miles with the ECTED installed to all the "Pinion" to settle back in. Does that sound right? How would I know if this is a problem?

2. First day driving with it, I got on the gas a little bit with it UNLOCKED starting off around a corner, and the inside tire barked a little. I assume since the ECTED is a limited slip when not locked that I probably got on the gas to much on wet pavement, thus the outside tire started to slip, and the two locked together resulting in the chirp. Does that sound right to you guys?

3. I am a relatively bright guy, and faily good with electronics and the like but I have never had the opprotunity to learn anything about cars/trucks. My ignorance is a little embarrasing, as I am not used to being the idiot in the room. Can you guys point me in the direction of some type of instructions, informational manual for my particular truck, or a general educational book on trucks in general?

Thanks all, I appreciate the help.
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  #2  
Old 02-28-2006
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I bought a ranger service manual on ebay for like 10 bucks. it goes over all the regular maintenance plus a bunch I hope I never have to do. I've seen a few copies floating on the internet, but the one I have bookmarked is down so I can't help ya there.

Or you can find some local people having mod days. That's where I learned most of what I know about workin on my truck..
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Old 02-28-2006
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I live in the middle of nowhere, there is no one local, except for one guy on TRS who lives near me, but his Ranger is a mid 80's trail rig, so he doesn't know much about the newer models.
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Old 02-28-2006
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It's good to hold off on driving freeway speeds to allow the gears to break themselves in a bit. If something is wrong, you will most likely hear a squeeling/howling noise from the gears meshing improperly.

As for the chirping on turns, it will likely happen because as you turn, your inside and outside tires are turning at different speeds because their paths have different radii. This difference in speed combined with the power from the wheels could be enough for the L/S to catch just a little bit. I've noticed the same thing with my Torsen limited slip.

If you want to get some good basic automotive knowledge, check out www.howstuffworks.com they have stuff on engines, transmissions, differentials, all the fun complicated stuff that you can't really tear apart and put back together with no experience. It will help you gain a much better understanding of how your vehicle operates!
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Old 02-28-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead61
It's good to hold off on driving freeway speeds to allow the gears to break themselves in a bit. If something is wrong, you will most likely hear a squeeling/howling noise from the gears meshing improperly.

As for the chirping on turns, it will likely happen because as you turn, your inside and outside tires are turning at different speeds because their paths have different radii. This difference in speed combined with the power from the wheels could be enough for the L/S to catch just a little bit. I've noticed the same thing with my Torsen limited slip.

If you want to get some good basic automotive knowledge, check out www.howstuffworks.com they have stuff on engines, transmissions, differentials, all the fun complicated stuff that you can't really tear apart and put back together with no experience. It will help you gain a much better understanding of how your vehicle operates!
Thanks, I will check out that sight.

How much of a breakin should I give it? The guy at the shop said 1000 miles, but that could take me 3 months since I live close to work, and everything is a trip down the highway from here. Not going on the highway is nearly impossible.
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Old 02-28-2006
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I have also heard that I should replace the differential fluid and friction modifier after 1200 miles, is that true? If so, can someone point me towards a how-to for changing rear differential fluid?
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Old 02-28-2006
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lol change you sig color I can't read it at all on the light blue and white bakround
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Old 02-28-2006
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The background is Dark Blue. Why is yours white?
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Old 02-28-2006
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There are TWO background types, to accomodate different tastes or eyesight limitations. I use the light background. Look at the bottom left of this page for a dropdown box which allows you to select Light Style or Xtreem Style. You are looking at Xtreem and it's color scheme is different than mine. It's a good idea to fab a sig which can be read in both styles.

Now, I have the ECTED and I did it all wrong. I put it together basicallly in one day with some help, had tons of problems, and got it down and got home at like 3 or 4 AM with a major offroad run 50+ miles away to attend that day. I drove it like I stole it up to the meet and didn't break it in AT ALL. I may pay for it at some point, but so far it works fine. It's NOT the ECTED which is the issue though, it's mainly the brand new ring/pinion I put in.

It worked great, by the way.

It won't hurt at ALL to take it easy on it though, because even though I've had not had a problem -- it doesn't mean I won't. I just did what I had to do.
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Old 02-28-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
There are TWO background types, to accomodate different tastes or eyesight limitations. I use the light background. Look at the bottom left of this page for a dropdown box which allows you to select Light Style or Xtreem Style. You are looking at Xtreem and it's color scheme is different than mine. It's a good idea to fab a sig which can be read in both styles.

Now, I have the ECTED and I did it all wrong. I put it together basicallly in one day with some help, had tons of problems, and got it down and got home at like 3 or 4 AM with a major offroad run 50+ miles away to attend that day. I drove it like I stole it up to the meet and didn't break it in AT ALL. I may pay for it at some point, but so far it works fine. It's NOT the ECTED which is the issue though, it's mainly the brand new ring/pinion I put in.

It worked great, by the way.

It won't hurt at ALL to take it easy on it though, because even though I've had not had a problem -- it doesn't mean I won't. I just did what I had to do.
My ring and pinion are carry overs from before, they only had like 17,000 miles on them. They are what allegedly need to settle for 1000 miles. Does that sound right to you?

Also, do you think I should change the differential fluid after 1000 miles, or will it be ok since the gears, ring and pinion are all old. I assume a whole new rear end would need to have the fluid changed to get rid of all of the pieces of new metal that get ground together, but it seems like I shouldn't have that problem correct?

Thanks for the replies.
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  #11  
Old 02-28-2006
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Better safe than sorry IMO. If your shop tells you to do it, then I suggest that's what you do.

The ring and pinion sounds about right. I believe you've got to remove them in order to install the ECTED. When reinstalling them you have to set the backlash correctly so you have the right mesh pattern for the gears. While they are still getting settled in they might rub a small bit differently so there will be some metal flakes more than likely. Changing your gear oil is very simple too. It's as easy as open the cover, let it drain, replace the cover using new gasket compound, and refill.

As far as driving on the highway, I guess it could be ok, but do take it a little easier than normal until you get it all broken in.
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  #12  
Old 02-28-2006
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The inside tire chirps because its describing a smaller circle but is turning
the same speed as the outside tire(which is making a larger circle)
it also doesnt help that your weight shifts to the outside in the corner.
In otherwords its normal operation to chip the inside tire esp in anything except
a granny speed turn.

I wouldnt worry about changing the fluid right away but you might want to
after 10000 (or as preventative if you submerge the axle.)
The gears even though not new do have to "settle" because they were removed
they are not meshing in exactly the same way as before. Its a good practice
to follow but again I wouldnt worry about it immensely.

Rand
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Old 02-28-2006
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Thanks guys, I feel a little better about things.
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Old 02-28-2006
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I'd change it at 1000 miles anyway actually. It's possible that machining material and wear metal from the ECTED "wearing in" will need to be removed. I've changed mine three times since I did it a year ago or so -- but that was once at 500 miles to drain it and refill and retorque the ring bolts (which I'm glad I did because they were no longer at spec torque) and then later when it turns out the synthetic plus limited slip additive was too much of a good thing, lol. The locker wouldn't lock and I got stuck in a strip mine because of it. In fact, my avatar is from that very trip.

If you have to remove the cover anyway, it'd be a good idea to retorque the bearing caps and ring bolts while you're in there.
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  #15  
Old 02-28-2006
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I have read your posts about the whole to much of a good thing ordeal. Can you tell me exactly what gear oil, and friction modifer you recomend? I will probably have the local quick lube do the fluid change as i have no mechanical ability, and I imagine it will be pumped out of the case, so I would like to bring the scerw lube with me so they don't screw up and use the wrong stuff.
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Old 02-28-2006
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I'm using straight gear oil with no modifier -- but that's because my big 31 spline axle holds a lot of residual fluid in the tubes when you drain it, and it doesn't all drain from the center section because of how the drain plus is situated on my Explorer aluminum diff cover. So my mechanic "advisor" said when I change it, start with just a standard gear oil and add modifier if I need it.

Basically, right now I'm running a "synthetic" blend of Pennzoil conventional gear oil and the residual Amsoil and friction modifier from before.

It worked just fine prior to my "too much" adventure, using Pennzoil with friction modifer already in it. I don't have any recommendation right now except that because it's the only "real" oil I used that worked. My current "blend" is kind of a funky thing that works well, but would be hard to reproduce. At the end of the year I'll probably change it back to the original Pennzoil since it worked. With the drain plug in the diff oil changes are pretty simple.
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Old 02-28-2006
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you can remove the fill plug and drain it with a 7$ suction gun yourself pretty easy..
Removing the cover is really easy too. just need to scrape then make a new gasket to reassemble.

Rand
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Old 02-28-2006
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Neither is as easy as a "real" drain plug, lol. I'm so lazy I don't like using even my suction pump. Sad...
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Old 02-28-2006
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Hey John Im installing my ECTED with 4.88s ( i have the 31 spline ) what did you do for the center pin and ring gear clearance? Could you PM me with any tips on this before i spend hours trying to get this thing together and learning the hard way thanks ...
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Old 03-01-2006
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John, A drain plug is easier but not on my wallet...
Summit does have some really nice ones for about 90$
An exploder one would be? 50?

A suction gun I already have = 0$ and will get 90% as much as the drain plug
(maybe more depending on how the plug is located)

Now that I think about it. Its about time to change mine... 67k on the stock rear fluid
40k on the replaced front fluid(after ford changed the pinion seal)
What does everyone think about redline gear oil.

Rand
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Old 03-01-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerboy03lvl2
Hey John Im installing my ECTED with 4.88s ( i have the 31 spline ) what did you do for the center pin and ring gear clearance? Could you PM me with any tips on this before i spend hours trying to get this thing together and learning the hard way thanks ...
Well, there are two basic methods, and I'll just post them out in the open here in case anyone else is interested:

A) Grinding the edge down of a ring gear tooth or two (the very tip of the tooth doesn't usually take up any stress).

B) Grinding half of the center pin somewhat flat.

The Auburn docs cover B) above -- but I'm told that for some ratios you have to do both because you don't want to remove too much of the center pin. I had to take mine down probably 1/16 to 3/32 inch or so. You flatten it along about 1/2 it's length and they show you on what area to do it.

Of course this is only necessary for our c-clip axles. If we had full floating axles it wouldn't be necessary. Oh well, someday...
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Old 03-04-2006
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OK, I have a few hundred light duty miles on the new differential, and I have some more questions. In 2nd and 3rd Gears I seem to be hearing a slight hormonic noise at between 2500 and 2700 RPMs. It goes away as I accelerate through it. This noise started after about 150 miles on the new diff. Is this normal? Or does this imply that my ring and pinion are not seated properly?

Do you suppose the harmonic noise will go away as the rear end breaks in?

Thanks for your help.
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Old 03-04-2006
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I should mention that the noise isn't very obvious, and may be just my paranoia. My wife says she doesn't hear it, so I may be nuts. It could coincide with my Flowmaster series 40, as it is loudest in the same RPM range as the harmonic noise. When I am idleing, and rev up to 2500 RPM's I don't hear the noise though, so that makes me think it is not the exhaust.

Am I loosing my mind?

I should also add that the noise is RPM Specific, not speed specific.

Last edited by Brigrat; 03-04-2006 at 05:53 PM.
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  #24  
Old 03-04-2006
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where it happens in 2 different gears then i shouldnt be anythign from the rear driveshaft back. the rear end just keeps getting faster as you go up through the gears, so 2500 rpm in 3rd is a lot faster at the rear than 2500 rpm in 2nd.
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  #25  
Old 03-04-2006
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Excellent, that is exactly the kind of info I was hoping to hear. I think I am just more sensative to the noises my truck makes being in the break in phase with the new differential. I don't know enough about my truck to know things like what you just posted, so as i suspected, I was concerned for no reason.
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