Explorer rear SOA preperation.
Screw it then, I'll use the ranger shaft till she blows. LOL. Ive got a spare JY ranger axle anyhow so I should be good for a while... who knows, in that time I may find a way to source just the SL flange and make that double cardan JY axle work afterall.
Have a new question for you guys. How do I go about setting pinion angle when I got to setup the explorer axle for the spring perches? What is the angle supposed to be? I messed with pinion angle correction when I lowered my 94, but can't remember any of the process of measureing and/or setting the correct angle.
Have a new question for you guys. How do I go about setting pinion angle when I got to setup the explorer axle for the spring perches? What is the angle supposed to be? I messed with pinion angle correction when I lowered my 94, but can't remember any of the process of measureing and/or setting the correct angle.
big thing is first just eyeball it... make sure that your pinion nose and axle come to a straight line. If you are useing the SL blocks you need to account for the 2.5*(IIRC) taper on the blocks. Other than that info i cant really say... I eyeballed mine and works just fine....
Originally Posted by Kanoeking
big thing is first just eyeball it... make sure that your pinion nose and axle come to a straight line. If you are useing the SL blocks you need to account for the 2.5*(IIRC) taper on the blocks. Other than that info i cant really say... I eyeballed mine and works just fine....
I know to eyeball it to get it close, but when I set the pinion on my 94 I had thought that the angle difference was supposed to be 2* to account for axle wrapping on accel. But being lifted is making me overthink this and worry too much LOL.
Originally Posted by D94R
I think your wordage confuses me. I think I'm confused on what you mean by pinion nose, and what you mean by a straight line between them.
I know to eyeball it to get it close, but when I set the pinion on my 94 I had thought that the angle difference was supposed to be 2* to account for axle wrapping on accel. But being lifted is making me overthink this and worry too much LOL.
I know to eyeball it to get it close, but when I set the pinion on my 94 I had thought that the angle difference was supposed to be 2* to account for axle wrapping on accel. But being lifted is making me overthink this and worry too much LOL.
Let me clarify.... Pinion Nose='s the very front of the differential... the part where you bolt your drive shaft flange to the differential. And by straight line i mean, well just make sure that there isnt any crazy angles from the d-shaft to the differential. Im pretty sure that 2*'s sounds about right. But then again that can change with each application based on lift height, springs, shackles and blocks.
Ahh ok, thats what I thought you meant :)
Here is a quick crude sketch I did

So basically, if memory serves me right, I measure the output shaft angle, then add two degrees to that, and that is what I should set my pinion angle at.... (If output angle was 15*, then pinion angle should be 17*) sound right?
Here is a quick crude sketch I did

So basically, if memory serves me right, I measure the output shaft angle, then add two degrees to that, and that is what I should set my pinion angle at.... (If output angle was 15*, then pinion angle should be 17*) sound right?
Originally Posted by Ranger00
how come your painted it all up if you still have to weld perches on?
Originally Posted by ME
Oh and I realize I'll have to regrind part of the tubes to be able to weld the perches on, Ive just been killing time lately waiting for warm weather to finally stay here.
Yah, I bought some Mopar Universal 2.5" perches from Summit. $12 for the set. Now I just need to get a 220V line ran in the garage for my welder. That, and I need to source various other parts for the rear end before I swap it in like parking brake cable and the parking brake itself.
good. i need to get dismantaling mine soon. i was just wandering if you found some because i found perches, tabs, u-bolts, and plates from ruffstuffspecialties.com. all i need is paint, pads, brake and ebrake lines.
hrrrrm. Me thinks I forgot about shock tabs. :(
I had planned to use the stock explorer spring plate/shock mounts like I did on my lowered Ranger. But, being lifted and a SOA setup, that probably will not work.
I had planned to use the stock explorer spring plate/shock mounts like I did on my lowered Ranger. But, being lifted and a SOA setup, that probably will not work.
Matt, i believe they said my pinion angle was 16* they said that was about perfect for the lift. what the alignment shop knows? idk. lol
but i just plan to do like scott said. slide it under there, tighten the ubolts some and twist it till you get the desired angle.
but i just plan to do like scott said. slide it under there, tighten the ubolts some and twist it till you get the desired angle.
There is one in Salt Lake City, but, after the gas I spend to get there, and wear and tear on the truck, it will probably be the same to have them shipped to me. Thanks for the heads up though.
Originally Posted by zabeard
Matt, i believe they said my pinion angle was 16* they said that was about perfect for the lift. what the alignment shop knows? idk. lol
but i just plan to do like scott said. slide it under there, tighten the ubolts some and twist it till you get the desired angle.
but i just plan to do like scott said. slide it under there, tighten the ubolts some and twist it till you get the desired angle.
but if 16* does not look right on your truck dont weld it that way.
what are you running now? superlift blocks stacked? or AAL and cehvy drop shackle.
measure where it is now and make it close to that. but you want the angle of your pinion to be close to the same as the angle of the driveshaft. maybe tipped down some but definitely not tipped further up
what are you running now? superlift blocks stacked? or AAL and cehvy drop shackle.
measure where it is now and make it close to that. but you want the angle of your pinion to be close to the same as the angle of the driveshaft. maybe tipped down some but definitely not tipped further up
Just the Chevy shackle right now. I have some 2* shims from when I thought I had to adjust the lowered ranger, but was wrong. So I have those for a +/-2* adjustment should I need them.
And you're right, the pinion should be tipped 2* down (towards the ground), relative to the degree of the output flange.
And you're right, the pinion should be tipped 2* down (towards the ground), relative to the degree of the output flange.





