Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

finally......getting the solid piece driveshaft

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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #26  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
you will have to trim about 1/4" off the gas tank skid plate......because whenever you flex it will rum the plate and make a horrible screaching noise........when you are sitting on level ground, it is fine but not when flexed...

Yeah thats what i figured. idk why buy im stoked! lol and its aluminumnumnumnum! lol
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #27  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
whenever you lift a '97 and older exteded cab 4x4 Ranger the carrier bearing is put in a bad angle and vibration at low RPM's which is VERY annoying...
It can be corrected by dropping the carrier bearing (Like I did). It will have less vibration but, you will still feel it slightly. But I'm one to say dont bother with that. just get a solid piece driveshaft.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #28  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
Originally Posted by winks
It's alright, his truck has become a street queen and won't see Wharton again.

ouch! lol You'll see it this year. Im just money spent from christmas, and I want to get my truck straightend out before anything.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #29  
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From: Charlestown, IN
Originally Posted by fletch12518
Yeah thats what i figured. idk why buy im stoked! lol and its aluminumnumnumnum! lol
yea the aluminium is nice.....but i would prefer the steel if you are off-roading.....atleast with the steel if you get it dented, you can take it somewere and have it fixed.....the aluminium you have to replace if it gets dented..........
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #30  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
yea the aluminium is nice.....but i would prefer the steel if you are off-roading.....atleast with the steel if you get it dented, you can take it somewere and have it fixed.....the aluminium you have to replace if it gets dented..........
I wheel but not that hard. Granted there are times that are more rough than others but I should be ok. knock on wood tho.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #31  
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From: Charlestown, IN
^^ yea you better!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #32  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
^^ yea you better!
done deal. lol I got a dumb question. i should feel a more frim and tighter acceleration when it is on correct?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #33  
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From: Charlestown, IN
nope....you will tell no difference.........you are not changing anything that isn't already there......what you are doing is like changing the diff fluid....you wont tell a difference...
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #34  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
nope....you will tell no difference.........you are not changing anything that isn't already there......what you are doing is like changing the diff fluid....you wont tell a difference...
whoops i for got. no vibrations, and o yeah the slip yoke may be better to, with no "clunking" noise....
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #35  
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From: Charlestown, IN
before you install the driveshaft, take the slip yoke lose and re-grease it....that way you dont have to in a couple of months...
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #36  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
before you install the driveshaft, take the slip yoke lose and re-grease it....that way you dont have to in a couple of months...
so how do i go about so? never greesed one before. Just loosen the clamp, and grees? Do i need a certian tool to seperate? I am a Industrial Mechanic, but no idea on driveshafts lol. Just need some sort of guid and ill get through.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
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pull the end that goes to the transfer case out.....it will just slip out.....take a grease gun and squirt some grease on each piece's splines....then slip the yoke back together.......
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #38  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
pull the end that goes to the transfer case out.....it will just slip out.....take a grease gun and squirt some grease on each piece's splines....then slip the yoke back together.......
that easy huh?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #39  
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From: Charlestown, IN
yup...
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #40  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
good deal than, ill get install pics and such when it goes in. shouldnt be too bad
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
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From: Charlestown, IN
also....make sure you have some RED thread locker to put on the bolts as you put them in.........THE BOLTS ARE 12 POINT!!!!! any other socket and you will round the bolts off....you will need an impact to get them out...

here is a write up i did on the driveshaft swap....and carrier bearing removal..

http://pedia.rangerresource.net/inde...aft_Conversion
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #42  
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We lucked out on the trail when my driveshaft slipped out. We were able to use two wrenches put together to give us some leverage to get the bolts off... if we had needed an impact, I would've had a pretty bumpy, loud ride home.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #43  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
also....make sure you have some RED thread locker to put on the bolts as you put them in.........THE BOLTS ARE 12 POINT!!!!! any other socket and you will round the bolts off....you will need an impact to get them out...

here is a write up i did on the driveshaft swap....and carrier bearing removal..

http://pedia.rangerresource.net/inde...aft_Conversion
a 12 point wrench/socket with a breaker bar won't be enough? I have all types of thread locker. that red is some tuff chit! lol
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #44  
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From: Charlestown, IN
yea it will work....
 
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Old Jan 9, 2007
  #45  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
ok, I already took them off once to replace the u-joints but did use thread locker when i put them back on.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2007
  #46  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
Bummer news for now........To make a long story short, I took the drive shaft, cross member and all out last night to find that the Mounting Flange on my transfer case is too small for the mounting holes for the flange on the new driveshaft. so Ben Is going to take a look at the transfer case and see if he can just pop the flange off. It looks as if you need to back the larg nut off, and get a set of gear pullers and pull it off. Long story short, took everything off to put back on lol. But I did greese both slip yokes. No more "clunking" from my origional shaft now.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2007
  #47  
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From: Charlestown, IN
that is odd....you have an electric transfer case right? hmmmm mine just bolted right up....you have a BW1354 transfer case....i dont know why you dont have the same flange as everybody else with a 1354....odd....
 
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Old Jan 10, 2007
  #48  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
that is odd....you have an electric transfer case right? hmmmm mine just bolted right up....you have a BW1354 transfer case....i dont know why you dont have the same flange as everybody else with a 1354....odd....

Yup, the flange is bigger. I check 10x or more. I was like WTF!????? I was gonna use the flange on the old driveshaft, but it was too small and would not swap out right.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2007
  #49  
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From: Havre De Grace,Md
ok i got the flange off the transfer case lastnight. met up with Ben (Ranger1). My question is if the Splines on my transfer case will be the same/line up for the new flanges splines????? If anyone knows that be great. If not i guess ill find out when I pull it.......?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2007
  #50  
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From: Charlestown, IN
they are the same transfer cases......both are the BW1354 transfer case...
 
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