When the hub is free and you are driving it only lets the wheel spin letting the front cv shafts and drive shaft sit still causing less drag on the engine improving MPG. I think

 

yes that is correct you have easier steering and less drag on the motor, less miles on your front axle and cv's etc....

 

It took me about 25 minutes for both wheels, but I took the wheel off for the drivers side per the instructions and then I realized that all you have to remove is the hub cover. I did use a screwdriver handle to tap the other screwdriver to seat the caps in the re-assembly process. It was really simple......I am very happy with the results. Good Luck

 

I'm not impressed with the "live axle" setup on my '02 ranger.
I've always had locking hubs on my 4x4 vehicles, this is my first ford.
I'm getting alot of noise and vibration from my front end, I think the front diff is shot.
I've got alot of play in my front driveshaft, and suspect this is where my vibration is coming from, due to all the play in my front diff. I don't go offroad very often, i mainly use 4x4 when we get snow, or the roads are icy.
I would like to convert my front end to a locking system so I can unlock my hubs. I don't like the idea of spinning my front end at 85 mph when running down the highway, seems like a waste of gas to me.

 

ok This may sound really stupid to some of you but I have a question. I have a 94 Explorer and until today when I needed it the 4x4 does nothing. Only thought I have about why is that about a month ago I rotated the tires and when you pull the front you have that cap deal inside the wheel. Does it make a difference as to how that is put back on? will that affect the ability of the 4x4 engaging?

Come on help a chick out. lol

 

you sure the hubs are the problem? sure it isn't a vacuum line that rotted? Those lines are super easy. There are a few lines that can rot away causing a vacuum leak: line that connects between the hub and connector up by the frame, small piece by the vacuum reservoir (a real b!tch to get at), another small piece near the reservoir. Then there is a solenoid that has a diaphragm that can rip (this got me) causing a vac leak. The first vacuum lines by the wheels rip first since there is a lot of movement.

For what I use my truck for, PVH works well.

 

if your wanting to buy the AVM/RUGGED RIDGE hubs PM me

 

thanks ccernst, ill try to figure that out since I have no other clue what is wrong, it worked fine the last time I used it.

Hillpride Im not looking to buy anything I dont have to lol its purely my snow truck and to haul my fat *** dog around since she doesnt fit in the ranger

 

I looked online and the sites I found say that that type of locking hub was used on the 85 and up not the 94 so should I even bother trying to crawl under it in the snow???

 

my comment was more directed at the OP. I have no clue what a '94 explorer uses. I'd go to explorerforum.com for that one...that is a large explorer based forum...with some ranger similarities.

 

 

I had a set of mile makler manual hubs thrown on mine THe auto lockers sucked at least for me.

 

I did the same thing with one difference. Instead of removing the metal clips which will makes it so you can't go back to a vacuum system, I just bent the clips so they don't engage. I figure for the winter when I use 4x4, I will drive around with a "live" system. In the spring I will bend the clips back and go back to the original system. That way I can still get the fuel economy of the original setup. Also, I can troubleshoot the vacuum system in the spring and once I find the leak, I can go back to the original system. Not need to spend all that money on the manual locks (maybe it make sense if you are going in and out of 4x4 alot).

 

? About the plastic snap ring can u use a metal snap ring or would it do morw damage then good didnt get any plastic ones when I got my avm lock outs