I have this D44 that I got a hold of, its 5 on 5.5 from idk 76-79 F150, really not sure on the year.

Problem is I dont know what to do with it, I want to use it on my truck and there are so many options and configurations.

I want high steer (pretty sure I do at least) So I think I need to acquire some flat top knuckles. Can I run 5on5.5 still if I find some other flat top knuckles? can I still reuse the brakes and calipers? Balljoints? Outter shafts? Hubs? Or will I need the parts that came off that truck that had the flattop knuckles?

If I get high steer how should I mount the track bar on the axle? Custom bracket? Or does someone make brackets that will work for what I want.

Do I need to go high steer? Currently the truck drives pretty good with the D30 setup

Now I have read that the full width D44 needs shortened something like 6" for a ranger I should be able to just shorten that like 3" right? or any length I want?

I really want to keep my RE arms so as far as the brackets go I think I will just get a currie or RE bracket kit and weld it on.


Basically i am looking for any opinions, links, pictures, parts you have and what you think I should do.

Edit: here is a picture of the D44, if someone can help me id the year or more info.

 

get better pics of the Wedges, and I can tell you if its a 76-77 axle or 78-79

 

no clue, but give me your radius arms

 

scott you can have them. I need to refill the oxy tank first to get the bolts loose.

 

are you wanting to know if they are welded on or cast? they are welded on, spot welded.

 

then its a 76-77 axle. as 78-79 were cast. you can still use your radius arms. Just remove the wedges, then use this kit.

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Produc...=54B5E22539926

 

defidently go with High steer as your truck is street driven and it will drive alot nicer with highsteer.

 

sweet, thanks

and yes I want that kit.

 

so which knuckles should i be looking for? any tips on that? or can i convert the knuckles i have? i dont think i can because the f150s had a thiner knuckle.

 

if your knuckles are flat top you can mill and drill

 

-73 to 76 chevy flat tops
-chevy small bearing spindles
-86 fsj backing plate and caliper
-ford hub/rotor
-GM/jeep stub
-internal mount lockout that you have

This list was for my Waggy 44 so stuff might differ a little, like the backing plate and caliper.

 

so i could use the caliper and backing plate from the f150?

those flat tops hard to come by?

 

Try www.partsmike.com is the website I think... you should be able to get flat-top knuckles already milled, drilled, and tapped. My D44 came with flat-tops so I unfortunately can't help you out much there.

 

the full width Dana 44 needs to be cut down 5.5" to be exact from the passanger side to be Ranger width.....you can cut it down any amout you want if you want a wider track......however, to make it look proper, the rear would have to be modified to match the width...

 

my front is already an 1.5" wider on each side then stock. So I really just need to cut the passenger side 2.5" right?

the rear is .75" wider on each side then stock. so currently the rear is .75" narrower on each side then the front. No one notices such a little amount. But I think when I bolt some adapters to 5on5.5 on the rear that should make everything pretty even for now.

 

if you want to get back to the same width you have now you will need to cut 4" off the passanger side....if you cut it 2.5", then you will be another 1" wider than you currently are.....

how wide do you want the front to be?

 

Correct me if I am wrong but I could just run this right here correct? If so does that seem like a decent price? It does not seem bad to me? But I would still need...

-chevy small bearing spindles
-GM/jeep stub
correct?



http://www.partsmike.com/old/knuckle_kit.htm

 

62" is what I am looking for. which is 3" wider than a stock ranger IIRC.

 

if it is 3" wider than a stock Ranger, then yes 2.5" is all you need to cut of the passanger side.......

 

Personally, I would just leave it full-width and not bother with the hastle and expense of narrowing it, but do whatever you want. If you have a good chop saw and welder you can narrow the axle for free, but it'll just take a little time. Make sure to have an angle finder so that you set the camber and caster correctly.

For hi-steer all the parts will be off a D44 and you will need:

Chevy Flat-top knuckles
Chevy small bearing spindles
Chevy Stub Shaft(outer shaft)
Chevy or Jeep backing plate
Chevy or Jeep caliper
Ford 5x5.5 rotor(you already have these)
Whatever internal D44 hubs you want(you can reuse what's on the axle now)

Basically just get everything from the knuckle out minuse the rotors off the Chevy D44. You can not use the Ford caliper brackets or calipers because the have a different bolt pattern. Chevy and Jeep use 6 bolts and Ford uses 5.

The Ford axle you have is a good one, because it has removable wedges and .375" thick axle tubes. The removable wedges open up a lot of options for swapping it under your Ranger. Good luck.

 

ok that is what i thought.

 

Thanks Deryck

Moser Axle is only 45 minutes away and it would only cost just over 100 to have the axle shortened So I might as well.

Do you know or does anyone know if i will need to turn the wedges on the D44? This is something that I have never messed with before and I am not sure that I want to. I was thinking if I left them in the same place they are right now I could twist the axle to make the caster correct and my pinion angle would still be pretty good.

Correct? or maybe Moser Axle can help me out with this. I am sure they can.

 

Why would you leave them on if your going to use your jeep long arms? I think what you meant to say was Inner C's. You might not need to cut and turn with the HP.

 

you leave them in the same place, and you install degreed wedge bushings to get the proper allignment.....

i contacted Moser last summer about narrowing a Dana 44 front.....they said they will only cut down a rear axle since they don't have the proper jigg to put a front axle back together after cutting it...........they will however cut down your axle shafts to the proper length, but for the cost to have it done, you would be better off to have alloy shafts made to the proper lengths....


i know of a place down my way that will cut it down for you. if you want me too i can get his info for ya......he is located in Austin, IN.........i think he told me $200 to cut and put back together...

 

why would he need to leave any of the "C" wedges on if it will be custom Jeep mounts on the axle anyways

if you are going to use Jeep long arm parts, then i would take the C wedges off all together...