Hi, I have a 90 Ranger 4x4, This weekend I was off-roading and shortly after was driving along a highway, Ive had a humming originating from what sounds like the driveshaft area, I had planned to change the U-joints anyway. But as I was driving the noise suddenly grew louder and I heard what I sounded like gears breaking then I lost all movement at the wheels, the truck barely rolls and produces loud cracking and creaking sounds coming from the driveshaft area makes the noises in all gears, and with the 4x4 motor every gear too, could it be my u-joints have ceased or what. Im putting the truck up tonight to try and figure out what ill have too fix but if u guys could tell me what I should look for or have any ideas i`d appreciate it alot.

thanks

 

I really hope its somehow the driveshaft but I can't imagine a cracking sound coming from a u joint and almost complete lock up. Sounds like a new carrier and gears to me,

 

Once its up, wiggle the dshaft, I'm sure you should be able to tell instantly by looking at it something isn't right if its a u joint problem that bad. Usually they get snug or really loose. But check those gears ..

 

Ok, well u know along the center of the drive that leaves the front diff to the gearbox theres 2 shafts joined by a plate.. That plate is cracked about 3 quarters of its circumfrence directly through the center. My knowledge of this is very limited, is this what ur talkinga bout...

 

I have no clue what plate you are referring to but if you can take a picture I will understand more. No crack is a good crack anyway lol.

 

This is the part im talking about here, or atleast what it looks like..

http://img.alibaba.com/photo/2549219...RING_GEARS.jpg

tho I think I gave an bad description of where it is, im a total noob to this stuff...

 

wtf is that

 

I think by plate you mean flange, and if the flange is damaged I am going to assume there is something wrong inside the differential or tcase
also. Drain the oil in the diff and the t case and check its condition.

 

So, is that the flange on the differential thats cracked or is that the t-case..ill open em both to check em out, but what do you call that part in the pic I posted?

 

i dont know you tell me which side is cracked, i can hardley make out what you are explaining. your picture illustrates some farm grade double cardigan joint..

 

take pictures, they will help lots

 

.

 

OK, I had a look at it last night and this is what I did and found:

After the truck was jacked I put it in 2x4 then drive, no issues, reverse same thing.

But in 4x4 the front wheels would hardly rotate and there was outrageous popping and cracking sounds, so I unlocked the front tires the sounds stopped. The drive shaft from the transfer case to the front differential is crooked and the associated u-joints are gone, obviously theres obscene amounts of play on the shaft. My pivot baring is finished too.. I think thats what it would be called.


As for that pic I posted earlier, the part really does look like that, but I think its a shear wafer or something lol I dunno, you guys are gonna figure out quick if u havent already that i am borderline retarded. :D

 

Well hopefully your fluids checked out ok. If so make sure none of the seals on the case or pinion are leaking abnormally. Remove you driveshaft and any damaged assemblies associated with it and head over to your nearest driveshaft repair shop, look em up in the phone book. They will probably make you a whole new shaft if that one is totaled.

 

did you check the ujoints?

 

If I buy a new drive shaft, i`ll have to open the front diff to change the pivot bearing, if my gears are bad I could change them or should I buy a new front diff?

 

Dana 35?

I'm assuming so with the year, a stock gear set off of ebay shouldn't cost you too much, I grabbed a D35 Yukon set for next to nothing, new in box.

Honestly, If you have the money and wheel hard, SAS it. :-P

 

there should be no reason to validate the removal of anything internal, the shaft is separate and should disconnect without any diff work. You should be able to remove it then still drive to the shop to have it fixed. Drain the oil on the diff and check its condition but the shaft itself should be easy enough to remove

 

Edit: Bad typing