Here is the deal, so last year i had my bearings in the rear replaced. And the mechanic did it wrong, so now the pinion bearing are shot and all the gears inside.. go me.

So here is the plan.. I found a 8.8 rear end out of an explorer with discs. I hear its a straight swap out in the rear. has 4:10s just doesnt have L/S but i am going to lock it right later on.

Midas wanted 1300 to get me a rear end and 600 in labor. So doing it myself is the cheapest. And an 8.8 out of a lvl II is like 825 - 850 which is lame!

Now with the brake conversion is there anything that needs to be changed? Anything i should look for or worry about??

I am paying 300 for the rear end and installing it myself.

Any help would be great. Yes I have read the how-to.

 

Why don't you sue the mechanic that put everything in?

Remember you still have to grind and re-weld the spring perches and shock mounts.
With the brakes you will probably have to flange the brake lines and stuff like that. Just look at the How-to for the explorer swaps. There is alot of info there.

 

Its out of warranty.. its been a year. and over 12k miles..

Thanks i will look.

 

Id go back to where ever you had your work done and raise hell and make them redo it for free.

 

I dont think this will work either.

 

With an explorer Axle you need take off the stock spring perches and weld on new spring perches as well as leaf spring perches. You can get the ruff stuff 8.8 axle swap kit that comes with leaf spring perches, spring mounts, and new u-bolts and plates. Make sure you know the axle shafts are straight and good. I ended up having to replace my driver side axle shaft since it was bent. As far as the breaks you can reuse your ranger metal brake line adapter that is mounted to the top of the axle. Then just get new explorer parts. You will have to get 2 right caliper to metal brake line fittings from the explorer. It's a long process but worth it in the end to got with disc brake setup. If you have any other questions let me know. I can try to explain it clearly and get pictures upon request if needed.

 

Well who told you that it was the mechanics fault in the first place? Did you take it to a shop and have them look at it? or did you come up to your own conclusion.

If you did take it to a shop, get a written out estimate, and a statment showing that it is the mechanics fault, and bring it back to the shop that origonally did the work.

Raise some hell, it was their fault.

 

Brake parts available at Ruffstuff?

 

Not sure what he's talking about with the brake parts, but when I did mine all I needed was spring perches, shock mounts, u bolts. You would be wise to invest in a proportioning valve for the rear as they are going to lock up before the front and this can be a huge pain. Also on mine (although many others do not have this problem) the way that my e brake cable hooks up is different that of the drums.

 

That price for a LII axle isnt that bad considering you're going to spend another $300 on a decent locker. Let's just round and say $50 for a proportioning valve and $100 to have someone cut and weld spring perches/shock mounts. You're at 750 right there. But then again, you will have disc brakes...

 

^^BUT...the discs off an expo axle bolts directly to a L2 axle...can be had at the junkyard for under $100 for all braking components.


IMO.....WHY does the axle even need replaced....everything that sounds wrong with it sounds like a perfectly fine maintence item.

 

Well the final solution was found. I found a 31 spline 4.10 ratio rear end that is just the carrier and carrier housing as the axle tubes were bent.

Now this one is only 95 but its locked or l/s, can't I just straight swap the torsen?

 

NO! not unless it's a 31spline axle you are putting in....

 

Lvl 2 is 31 spline is it not?

 

lvl2 is in fact a 31spline. next step up is a 31spline from an expo with disc's.

 

Or just take the discs off the expo axle

 

I misread what you previously wrote....Torsen should swap right in.



WHY are you even doing this?? You are getting a carrier and carrier housing aka pumpkin...no tubes....WTF! You know how much you're gonna have into this>????? Having tubes welded to the pumpkin/center chunk...perches, shock mounts, outer ends, etc... You're current axle can be fixed. Easily. Unless you bent your tubes and really messed something up in the housing.

 

yeah so did i but its a real pain in the *** with moving the perches and shock tabs and the breaks. But it will be worth it when its done. I could get you an explorer axle for 50 bucks with a limited slip only it wouldn't be 4.10 there was one at the yard when i was there.

 

Shane. I am getting the pumkin for 95. This way all i need are the internals. The "guts" aka ring pinion, spiders, bearings and all that jazz.

My current setup is f'ed. My two pinion bearings are shot.
My ring is completely rutted out. And so are my spiders.

Straight carrier swap. my current for this new one. does that make sense?

My mechanic wants to see it so he can assess it. being i had a total diff service a month ago.

 

YOU DO NOT HAVE SPIDERS IN A TORSEN!!



idk if you just dont know the correct terminology or what, but IMO, i'd try and save the axle in the truck. So you need a differential, ring & pinion, and pinion bearings. All those items are definately replacable. Whats this about you needing a new 'carrier housing'?? Or is the only stuff good in that new 'carrier housing' w/o tubes, are the pieces you need and you are using your existing housing?

 

Ohhh well i learn something new everyday. All i know is that outer ring gear is f'ed. and the bearings. So i am carrier swapping those out for sure. The torsen well i will let mr mechanic make his decision on what he wants to do with it.

i havent bought any parts yet.

so if my torsen internals are okay all i have to do potentially is swap ring and pinion gears and the bad bearings?

 

^^yes

 

okay well i can get the 4.10 setup with bearings and everything for 95. which doesnt seem that bad if the torsen is okay.

unless you know a better way to get 4.10s for less.

and bearings.

 

i'd just make sure to go new on the bearings....they're going to need a pinion seal and a crush sleeve, and those should also be new. I've seen some pretty cheap used gears for sale..OEM factory units.

 

Here is the final answer. my mechanic is fixing it all and it is costing me a total of 50 dollars. parts and labor.