need help with with differentials please!!!!!
I run 4.56 gears, 4.10 were in my truck but didn't cut it, 4.56's are the way to go with 33" tires.
Traction devices, we all need them right !
If you drive in wet conditions you need to watch how you drive with a locked diff or other other traction device that locks both tires together. Powering up on a corner can cause an unsafe sideway slide. If you put in a traction device watch it !
Mikerider, good info on the Torsen.
Traction devices, we all need them right !
If you drive in wet conditions you need to watch how you drive with a locked diff or other other traction device that locks both tires together. Powering up on a corner can cause an unsafe sideway slide. If you put in a traction device watch it !
Mikerider, good info on the Torsen.
Last edited by Scrambler82; Oct 15, 2014 at 06:13 PM. Reason: Spl chk
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From: new hampshire
ok!! well let me start off by saying thank you to everyone who help. my spline count and everything was right. i ended up going with 4.56 gearing and with my 33 its not bad on the highway at all. with my speed fixed with my tuner, when im doing 75 my rpms are only at 2500 on 33's and that fine with me. now i have never done regearing in my life. i went to school for automotive and been working in the field for 4 years with a few ase. not saying im amazing im just saying im not a complete moron when it comes to working on cars. but i had the hardest time doing this. i feel like i ran into every problem imaginable. my truck was up on stands for months. now i didnt work on it every day. i put probably 25 hours into it. there is alot of things i didnt know that id like to list here for someone that might be thinking of doing this. so sorry for such a long post (and horrible spelling and grammar lol) but i wish i knew these thing be for i did all of this. and some of this will seem like a no brainer but at the time i didnt think of it or consider it.
one in a ford 8.8 if you are going to go to anything at or above 4.56 u need a notched cross pin to push the axles in. when i got my stuff from yukon they forgot forgot to send me that so i had no idea. alot of company's will include this pin. also if you put a different carrier in like i did (aburn elocker maxx) the cross pin that may be sent with your gearing may be wrong. the pin that came with my yukon was .750 inches in diameter. and the one from auburn was .790 inches. and that difference matters! i had to notch the pin that came with the aurbun carrier my self (says so in directions and aburn doesnt make a notch for that one). i used a grinding wheel cuz it really the only thing i had and could think of. and i wen to fast and warped the pin. i still cant believe i did but i did. so if you do that take your time. luckily it was only a 35 dollar mistake. the second time i didnt use gloves and stopped when it was to hot to handle, let it sit and cool and then went back at it. took me about an hour. but it wasnt warped.
now for front and rear. the oem specs with not necessarily work with this. every time someone talked about doing this they all said use the stock shims and a starting point but because you going with a higher ratio the ring gear sits higher so u need less shims. now that might be a no brainer but i didnt think of that and i found out it wasnt that hard way. a trick, some times like on the pinons and the front carrier you have to put the shim and then press the bearing on and sandwich them together. and if there wrong its not easy to get the bearing off to change the shim. what you can do to save you time and money. is if u can pull off the old bearing with out killing it and if you cant buy an extra baring, and shaved the inside of the bearing to the point it can slide on and off with out having to press it on. its hard to do with out the right tools. i found a cheap carbide bit set to do mine. this way you can put a shim on, put it together, paint it and make changes if needed.
yukon has a lot of great review but i have to say there direction book sucks, pretty much dont use it, they have a section of "allowable paint marks" dont look at those. if its not in the middle dont run it. i had to pull my truck back apart to redo it and when i finally got the paint marks in the middle all the problems stopped. also your may need to buy more paint to mark the gears because what come with the rebuild kits isnt enough. especially if your changing the gears a lot and dont really have a base point for the shims. but i didnt see this untill after i was done but xtream off roading on spike tv just did regearing in i think was the wd-40 truck and he gives a great trick to get a base line for the shims if you are doing a big jump. if someone wants i may be able to find the link again
im not sure if it was just me but nothing in the front wanted to come apart the pinon i had to put in the press and press it out. my air hammer didnt do the trick like it did for the rear, the races were impossible to remove. it was a nightmare.
once again sorry for the long post but like i said i had a lot of problems and i ran into a lot of thing that could of been avoid if i knew more going into this and i really dont want someone else to do this and have the same problems i did. i learned alot when i did this so if anyone has problems ask me or just on here. people on this site know there stuff and if i stop and checked on here i probably would of got this done alot faster. once again alot of this stuff might of been dumb to some people but maybe to other this might help. thanks for every one help. now off to find a winch bumper lol
one in a ford 8.8 if you are going to go to anything at or above 4.56 u need a notched cross pin to push the axles in. when i got my stuff from yukon they forgot forgot to send me that so i had no idea. alot of company's will include this pin. also if you put a different carrier in like i did (aburn elocker maxx) the cross pin that may be sent with your gearing may be wrong. the pin that came with my yukon was .750 inches in diameter. and the one from auburn was .790 inches. and that difference matters! i had to notch the pin that came with the aurbun carrier my self (says so in directions and aburn doesnt make a notch for that one). i used a grinding wheel cuz it really the only thing i had and could think of. and i wen to fast and warped the pin. i still cant believe i did but i did. so if you do that take your time. luckily it was only a 35 dollar mistake. the second time i didnt use gloves and stopped when it was to hot to handle, let it sit and cool and then went back at it. took me about an hour. but it wasnt warped.
now for front and rear. the oem specs with not necessarily work with this. every time someone talked about doing this they all said use the stock shims and a starting point but because you going with a higher ratio the ring gear sits higher so u need less shims. now that might be a no brainer but i didnt think of that and i found out it wasnt that hard way. a trick, some times like on the pinons and the front carrier you have to put the shim and then press the bearing on and sandwich them together. and if there wrong its not easy to get the bearing off to change the shim. what you can do to save you time and money. is if u can pull off the old bearing with out killing it and if you cant buy an extra baring, and shaved the inside of the bearing to the point it can slide on and off with out having to press it on. its hard to do with out the right tools. i found a cheap carbide bit set to do mine. this way you can put a shim on, put it together, paint it and make changes if needed.
yukon has a lot of great review but i have to say there direction book sucks, pretty much dont use it, they have a section of "allowable paint marks" dont look at those. if its not in the middle dont run it. i had to pull my truck back apart to redo it and when i finally got the paint marks in the middle all the problems stopped. also your may need to buy more paint to mark the gears because what come with the rebuild kits isnt enough. especially if your changing the gears a lot and dont really have a base point for the shims. but i didnt see this untill after i was done but xtream off roading on spike tv just did regearing in i think was the wd-40 truck and he gives a great trick to get a base line for the shims if you are doing a big jump. if someone wants i may be able to find the link again
im not sure if it was just me but nothing in the front wanted to come apart the pinon i had to put in the press and press it out. my air hammer didnt do the trick like it did for the rear, the races were impossible to remove. it was a nightmare.
once again sorry for the long post but like i said i had a lot of problems and i ran into a lot of thing that could of been avoid if i knew more going into this and i really dont want someone else to do this and have the same problems i did. i learned alot when i did this so if anyone has problems ask me or just on here. people on this site know there stuff and if i stop and checked on here i probably would of got this done alot faster. once again alot of this stuff might of been dumb to some people but maybe to other this might help. thanks for every one help. now off to find a winch bumper lol
Awesome man, glad you got it done. I've been thinking of doing this, but I would need a second vehicle to drive, haha. I guess I can understand why a shop was going to charge me almost $500 per axle to get it done.
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From: new hampshire
Yeah I lucked out and had a second car. And I also was lucky cuz I had most of the tools and what I didn't my shop had them for me to borrow. There was a lot of work that went it to it. More than I thought. Don't want to scare anyone thinking about doing it them self but it's not really a weekend project
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