New carrier Bearing vs One piece swap. - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 02-19-2011
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New carrier Bearing vs One piece swap.

Hey guys, lately upon take-off in my truck, i've noticed a "bumping" sometimes, and going over bumps at small speeds i can hear and feel something shaking up and down. I've come to believe its a combo of the carrier bearing being shot, as it has some play in it, i can move it up and down, and my "new" (made in ****ing thailand of course) tranny mount being ****ty. I haven't looked at the motor mounts yet, but last time i checked 'em they were both there 100%. My actual question however, is what is more sensible? replacing the carrier bearing? Or swapping for a one piece?

If y'all want the truth, i think this started after my foot slipped off the clutch by accident trying to just reverse a few feet in the shop. (wet boots, smooth clutch pedal, yeaaa) The truck stalled, made some clanging noises of course. And it wouldn't start easy. I had to crank it for 10 seconds and it was rattling when i did. All is normal now but....
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Old 02-19-2011
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fix it right, there is a reason your vehicle has a 2-piece driveshaft.
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Old 02-19-2011
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what might that be? obviously The one piece must have a benefit cause they switched to it a year later.
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Old 02-19-2011
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honestly the 1 piece does it to. After alil while it will start to clunk and bump and do the same thing. Everyone says greasing it will fix this issue but only for a few drives thats about it. Ford finally came out with another tsb and like a $15 kit that supposidly is finally supposed to be the best fix so far for the issue but I havent got around to buying it. So will buying a 1 piece fix your issue if you get it and the new kit, MAYBE, so is it worth it to you to try it out? thats about the best info so far
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Old 02-19-2011
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This isn't slip yoke bind, its something else. The slip yoke was greased not to long ago. I'd like to put a one piece in to fully eliminate the carrier bearing as any future issue with the truck, OR if its easy to replace, replace it.
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Old 02-19-2011
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Well im guessing when all that went on you damaged something. If I was you and I didnt care about the slip yoke clunk then id go get a 1 piece out of a junkyard that fits yours for dirt cheap and throw it in.

But if you want to keep the 2 piece, idk how you'd go about repairing that. Prolly just go get another 2 piece from a yard which could def be difficult depending on your area and which one you need. I know when I got another driveshaft out of a junkyard for my 06 extended cab 4x4, there was like 1 within 100 miles at the time.

I dont even think my 06 2 piece aluminum driveshaft has a carrier bearing? The only thing on it is just the center part section where the slip yoke is at?
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Old 02-19-2011
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I'll most likely just get a one piece, put in some new U joints, replace the tranny mount with the original one (isn't it kind of sad that the 15 year old mount i took out is in better shape than the replacement Advantage gave me???) all at the same time. damn. Its gonna be a rough weekend next weekend.

SO i guess we'll move on to: how difficult will this swap be? my truck is all stock. No lifts, mods, anything like that.
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Old 02-20-2011
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Make sure you get the exact one for you, the driveshaft differs from extended cab, 4x4, etc. It wont be to bad, just use alot of pb blaster and maybe have a pipe to put over your wrench or rachet. Im sure those bolts are going to def be tough. I know mine can be and thats on my 06. Maybe even keep a torch handy just in case.

If your going to get the 1 piece id go ahead and install the new kit ford sells thats like 15 bucks. I can get the part number if you need it.
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Old 02-20-2011
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My driveshaft should come out fairly easily. Its been out multiple times in the past year so, not as bad as 10 years at a time...But i have a fully equipped shop w/ lift i'll be working in. I'll be part hunting tomorrow, also need to pick up a new spare for my F150 so the part number would be great! thanks.
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Old 02-20-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcollins View Post
what might that be? obviously The one piece must have a benefit cause they switched to it a year later.
2 small rotating masses vs. 1 long rotating mass. easier to manage NVH, one piece cheaper.
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Old 02-20-2011
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the 2 piece is a stupid design imo on a truck that has as short of a wheel base as ours. im going to swap in a one piece some day
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Old 02-21-2011
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I don't really understand it either, in fact, i don't even thing the new F150s have a carrier bearing. Picking up a driveshaft tomorrow at the JY, then to the parts store for u joints (at $10 a piece i may as well put them in before i put the one piece in) then up to ford for the kit to "fix" slip yoke bind. and maybe price an OEM tranny mount. Yep, gonna be a long weekend next weekend fellas! lol

So, to double check here, I pretty much need to go ask for a driveshaft, for a 4wd extended cab Ford ranger, year 1998 or newer. I'm going to stick with steel, as i've heard the aluminums have a different size yoke.

Last edited by pcollins; 02-21-2011 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 02-21-2011
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I tink all the 1 pieces are aluminum atleast mine is and my replacement is but I might be wrong.
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Old 02-21-2011
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Old 02-21-2011
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Just got back with my one piece. $91, and u joints are still in great shape! No play and i can hear the grease inside. I'll still be replacing them of course. Slip yoke is definitely dry, in need of a greasing. I'll be doing the u joints and slip yoke mornings, before i leave for work in the afternoon. And i'll most likely take some pictures of the whole process next weekend when i put it in.
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Old 02-21-2011
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I did the one piece on mine. Easier than bothering with replacing the bearing. Lighter, less parts to wear out, etc. I got mine from a 3.0 from a JY and it ended up bolting right up. Didn't have to change the from flange or anything. But I pulled out the front slip yoke and greased it up with some Mobil 1 synthetic grease and installed it. That should keep it from drying up and clunking in the future.
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Old 02-21-2011
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idk if you still want them but for that center slip kit the part number is Steel driveshaft = F87Z-4K277-A. and Aluminum driveshaft = 4L5Z-4K277-AA.
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Old 02-21-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcmustang View Post
I did the one piece on mine. Easier than bothering with replacing the bearing. Lighter, less parts to wear out, etc. I got mine from a 3.0 from a JY and it ended up bolting right up. Didn't have to change the from flange or anything. But I pulled out the front slip yoke and greased it up with some Mobil 1 synthetic grease and installed it. That should keep it from drying up and clunking in the future.
The driveshaft they gave me is out of a 3.0 automatic as well, good to hear it should bolt right up for me.

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idk if you still want them but for that center slip kit the part number is Steel driveshaft = F87Z-4K277-A. and Aluminum driveshaft = 4L5Z-4K277-AA.

Thanks! I'll be looking into the kit tomorrow probably when i get my U joints.
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Old 02-22-2011
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The driveshaft they gave me is out of a 3.0 automatic as well, good to hear it should bolt right up for me.




Thanks! I'll be looking into the kit tomorrow probably when i get my U joints.
no problem and yeah it should bolt up fine, manual and auto dont differ. What causes the changes is obviously 4x4 and 2wd, and then if its an extended cab or standard cab, and if its a long bed or not. For instance I have a 06 extended cab 4x4 5 spd, the 5 spd doesnt matter, just needed one from an extended cab and that was 4x4 so it would bolt up with flanges on both ends.
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Old 02-22-2011
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Well, some of the conversion tutorials say that the front flange has to be changed. So, it may or may not need to be changed. Mine ended up matching, so I lucked out. I was ready to do a flange change but measured it when I got home and I hit the lottery on mine. So, I suggest measuring your new one and the old one just to be sure. You don't want to be in the middle of the conversion and then have to run around looking for flanges or conversion u-joints.
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Old 02-22-2011
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I'm pretty sure its mainly putting an aluminum where a steel was that requires the conversion, but ill crawl under there with a ruler for a rough measurement.
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Old 03-06-2011
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I'd just like to update you all, ended up just replacing the carrier bearing, mainly because of the fact i didn't want to deal with all those rusty rivets, and i'm not sure how removing that crossmember would help anything, plus i don't off road a lot and my truck is stock height.

I'd just like to put some tips here in case someones searching and reads this.

1)Have a two jaw puller handy. There is NO WAY i would have gotten the yoke, or bearing off w/o one.
2)Remember the orientation of the old bearing so you can place the new one on.
3)regarding the small metal plate that comes with your new bearing- if the plate from the old bearing is still well intact and pressed on good, Just keep it there. I had a hard time getting the new one fit on, ended up using some exhaust pipe and a block of wood and hammer to smack it on.
4)loctite the nut before re torquing, just for the hell of it.
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Old 03-06-2011
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All I did was unbolt the crossmember and then hacked it in half to get it out. Mine is also stock height with the exception of a 1 1/2" front leveling. Other than that I just bolted mine up. I am much happier with the one piece.
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Old 03-06-2011
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my crossmember is riveted in. any bolts are rusted solid anyways.
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Old 03-06-2011
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Ahh, angle grinder is your best friend.
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