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Hey guys,
I’m a little concern about the one piece driveshaft swap I did for my 1993 ext can 4x4 ranger.
Made sure the driveshaft was 47” weld-to-weld before I installed it but there doesn’t seem to be any horizontal travel in the boot.
I know a lot of people have done these swaps just wondering if that’s normal or I should throw my 2 piece back on.
I did take it for a test drive and it ran great. Just worries about the aluminum shaft compressing on its self lol.
thanks guys!
Last edited by blue betty; Aug 30, 2021 at 01:09 PM.
Reason: Driveshaft*
Okay thanks I’ll keep researching drive shaft lengths for my truck. There is a lot of contradicting info out there.
this shaft sits around 61.5 u joint to u joint which seemed to match the 2 piece. Just hard to measure cuz the boot slides in and out.
When the truck is flat on the ground, measure the distance from the diff flange to the output shaft flange and record, this is the mid travel length of the driveshaft.
Jack the rear end up by the frame and let the rear suspension droop as far as it will go. Measure the distance from the diff flange to the output shaft flange with a string and record it, that's your maximum extended travel length for the driveshaft.
If you were to fill the bed with bags of concrete til you reached the weight rating on the truck you could take the same measurements and get the maximum compressed travel length.
All these numbers will be effected by your rear suspension health. Brand new leaf springs will have a longer extended length since they will have a slightly higher arch.
You would want the driveshaft to be able to extend a little past the maximum extended travel length measurement. So let's say the length u joint to u joint is 50" with the boot as far out as it will go, you'd want your measurement from rear axle to trans 49"or less.
You also want the max compressed length of the shaft to be shorter than the max compressed travel distance between trans and axle. Your stock driveshaft setup will have play in both directions so it can be used to easily check if your new driveshaft can replicate the travel.
Looking at your photo, I would be concerned that the driveshaft is too long. Looks like the rear axle moving up from a speed bump or pot hole would push the driveshaft into the transmission. Definitely don't want that.
When the truck is flat on the ground, measure the distance from the diff flange to the output shaft flange and record, this is the mid travel length of the driveshaft.
Jack the rear end up by the frame and let the rear suspension droop as far as it will go. Measure the distance from the diff flange to the output shaft flange with a string and record it, that's your maximum extended travel length for the driveshaft.
If you were to fill the bed with bags of concrete til you reached the weight rating on the truck you could take the same measurements and get the maximum compressed travel length.
All these numbers will be effected by your rear suspension health. Brand new leaf springs will have a longer extended length since they will have a slightly higher arch.
You would want the driveshaft to be able to extend a little past the maximum extended travel length measurement. So let's say the length u joint to u joint is 50" with the boot as far out as it will go, you'd want your measurement from rear axle to trans 49"or less.
You also want the max compressed length of the shaft to be shorter than the max compressed travel distance between trans and axle. Your stock driveshaft setup will have play in both directions so it can be used to easily check if your new driveshaft can replicate the travel.
Looking at your photo, I would be concerned that the driveshaft is too long. Looks like the rear axle moving up from a speed bump or pot hole would push the driveshaft into the transmission. Definitely don't want that.
I knew I screwed up but didn’t want to admit it to myself.. gotta see if I can find another to reuse the u joints. Thanks that helps clarify a few things up.
