Raer end guts - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 01-05-2007
greygooseranger's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 3,293
Rear end guts

Hey guys, my posi is not working so well, its pissing me off because my truck only has 60K on it. I already did a fluid change and put the correct weight oil in it with friction modifier. What is the cheapest and best way to fix it OR get a better posi unit? I was thinking maybe a junkyard Level II rear end, but thats probably hard to find. Any tips? I know a new Torsen diff would be great but they are probably a fortune. Also, should I be thinking about switching to a 31 spline? I tow allot so thats why I was wondering.....

Thanks,
CB

Last edited by greygooseranger; 01-05-2007 at 12:13 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-05-2007
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
go to a junk yard, find a '95+ Explorer...pull the rear end......flip the spring hangers over, weld on some shock tabs, install it and hook up the brakes.....swap in YOUR gears into the rear end unless you can find a Explorer with your gear ratio already installed.......

when you do this you will not only have a limited slip, but you will have 31 spline axles and disc brakes on the rear!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-05-2007
greygooseranger's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 3,293
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
go to a junk yard, find a '95+ Explorer...pull the rear end......flip the spring hangers over, weld on some shock tabs, install it and hook up the brakes.....swap in YOUR gears into the rear end unless you can find a Explorer with your gear ratio already installed.......

when you do this you will not only have a limited slip, but you will have 31 spline axles and disc brakes on the rear!
Two things here.....

I don't weld......

Is the posi in the explorer better? Thats what I am really after.....
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-05-2007
n3elz's Avatar
RF Veteran
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Kennett Square, PA
Posts: 10,620
Not sure what you're trying to do with the rear?

If you want more traction, you could drop in a Richmond/PowerTrax NoSlip locker. It goes in there in place of the spider and axle gears and doesn't require you to readjust everything back there. Make sure you get the right one though if you have a limited slip now. There's two models for the 28 spline 8.8.

And no, the Explorer tractionlock LS is the same as the Ranger's except for the spline count and axle size.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-05-2007
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
any machine shop can weld you on some spring mounts and shock tabs.....the LIMITED SLIP in an Explorer IS better because it is for 31 spline axles....

and since you tow, the disc brakes will help in stopping!

FYI: Chevy calls it Posi and Ford calles it Limited Slip.......
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-05-2007
greygooseranger's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 3,293
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
any machine shop can weld you on some spring mounts and shock tabs.....the LIMITED SLIP in an Explorer IS better because it is for 31 spline axles....

and since you tow, the disc brakes will help in stopping!

FYI: Chevy calls it Posi and Ford calles it Limited Slip.......
Yeah I know, and Dodge calls it anti spin, I am familiar with the terms. My concern is since my truck is 2WD, I want great traction, not good, but great. I hate pulling my boat out of the ramp and having one tire slip then the other then both. I want a locker, but they aren't good for the street, and I don't do any off roading, so I guess I need something almost as good LOL........
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-05-2007
n3elz's Avatar
RF Veteran
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Kennett Square, PA
Posts: 10,620
Maybe just better tires?
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-05-2007
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by graygooseranger
Yeah I know, and Dodge calls it anti spin, I am familiar with the terms. My concern is since my truck is 2WD, I want great traction, not good, but great. I hate pulling my boat out of the ramp and having one tire slip then the other then both. I want a locker, but they aren't good for the street, and I don't do any off roading, so I guess I need something almost as good LOL........
lockers are fine for the street....n3elz has a locker in his truck.......lockers will disengage when turning.....still allowing 1 tire to spin faster when going turning...
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-05-2007
greygooseranger's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 3,293
Well my buddy had a locker in his truck and the thing skiped around turns, then he went to a ratcheting detroit locker and problem solved...... I more or less want positive 2wd traction, when I had my trans am, the posi (or whatever you want to call it) worked wonderful, it was an auburn Diff. Would something like that work for me? Should I switch to a 31 spline axle? What are the costs? I just need to know what the best setup is to pull a 5000 plus boat about 6-8 times a year, my limited slip now is very limited on not sliping.

P.S. Please don't tell me to get a bigger truck either, because my ranger does just fine, its just the limited slip that is p*ssin me off...

Thanks allot,
Chris
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-05-2007
V8 Level II's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 7,831
Why not simply rebuild the factory Traction-Lok LSD that's in the truck now? That should get you the traction you want, still be fully streetable and not cost a fortune.

If you want an inexpensive, easy to install locker, you could try a PowerTrax No-Slip or an Aussie Locker. They click mildly when turning but are otherwise OK on the street.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-05-2007
n3elz's Avatar
RF Veteran
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Kennett Square, PA
Posts: 10,620
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
lockers are fine for the street....n3elz has a locker in his truck.......lockers will disengage when turning.....still allowing 1 tire to spin faster when going turning...
My locker is selectable. It's a limited slip when not engaged. I dislike automatic lockers on the street but I'd tolerate one if it was my only choice.

Also, lockers change the inside to outside traction bias when turning. Whereas an open or LS will put most of the power to the OUTSIDE wheel, the locker puts it to the INSIDE wheel -- coincidently the one that lifts and loses traction the easiest when cornering!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-05-2007
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
Why not simply rebuild the factory Traction-Lok LSD that's in the truck now? That should get you the traction you want, still be fully streetable and not cost a fortune.

If you want an inexpensive, easy to install locker, you could try a PowerTrax No-Slip or an Aussie Locker. They click mildly when turning but are otherwise OK on the street.
rebuilding the limited slip in your truck would be easy to do also....and cheaper...

here is a rebuild kit on eBay for $45.00....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-05-2007
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
My locker is selectable. It's a limited slip when not engaged. I dislike automatic lockers on the street but I'd tolerate one if it was my only choice.

Also, lockers change the inside to outside traction bias when turning. Whereas an open or LS will put most of the power to the OUTSIDE wheel, the locker puts it to the INSIDE wheel -- coincidently the one that lifts and loses traction the easiest when cornering!
i did not know yours was selectable......hmmmmmm i do now!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-05-2007
greygooseranger's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 3,293
^^^^ So Mr. Griggs, what do you suggest for the best most affordable solution to my problem? Would it be worth it to invest in an Auburn or Torson Diff. ? Or some type of locker? I need to do something because if my posi is on its way out, a one wheel wonder wont fair very well in Michigan snow (if we ever get any)
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-05-2007
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
i will purchase your limited slip diff from ya for $50.....
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 01-05-2007
n3elz's Avatar
RF Veteran
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Kennett Square, PA
Posts: 10,620
You can rebuild your current diff and add extra clutch packs to increase the torque bias. It's relatively simple and you can retain your stock gear shims and all. Look over on the old Ranger Station and the like for info on rebuilding them.

Keep in mind that ANY traction enhancing differential has advantages and disadvantages. When you increase the torque bias you increase the chance of a tire breaking traction on a turn and spinning out.

There is no "perfect" solution for the street and the closest thing to it is a well tuned full traction control system with AWD.

My solution was expensive relatively speaking, but it was aimed at offroad traction with little loss of on-road driveability. If you want both traction and driveability from a 2WD system, you're going to have to spend more money.

The most affordable improvement would be to rebuild your LS and maybe put some extra clutch packs in for more torque bias -- but not overdo it. That should help and last a while too.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 01-05-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Shelbyville, Kentucky
Posts: 1,101
i would say go with the auburn diff myself...
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 01-05-2007
greygooseranger's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 3,293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sad_Savant
i would say go with the auburn diff myself...

I know I loved it in my Trans am, but what would be the cost to have something like this installed???
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 01-05-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Shelbyville, Kentucky
Posts: 1,101
prolly 450 in parts and another 150 - 200 in labor...just a rough guess
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Parking brake guts missing from the rear drums zappa66 Drivetrain Tech 10 07-14-2012 10:14 AM
Nasty Noise from the rear end/ rear end acting weird stephen.g.fiddes Drivetrain Tech 30 05-02-2010 07:57 PM
Nasty Noise from the rear end/ rear end acting weird stephen.g.fiddes Drivetrain Tech 0 04-27-2010 06:33 PM
front end done, rear end to go quicksilver2001 Drivetrain Tech 2 03-14-2008 06:51 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:51 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.