Do I need to have the bolts on the rear diff torqued to an specific ft.lbs, or do I just hand tighten and then go 3/4 to one bull turn with wrench?

 

The factory torque spec for the cover bolts on a 7.5 or 8.8 is 33 lb-ft.

 

So I would need to use a torque wrench, correct?

 

you dont need to, you are using blue RTV? i just torque it until i see some RTV on the edges.

 

I have black rtv

 

using a gasket then? black might be fine, i am not sure im not a professional RTV user, hehe. I just know orange is high temp and use blue on diff covers. lol

 

black will work

Black RTV Silicone Instant Gasket

Forms gaskets in-place instantly. Replaces cork, paper, asbestos and felt pre-cut gaskets. Dries tough and flexible. Resists high pressure and temperatures from –80°F to 600°F (–62°C to 315°C). Resists oil, antifreeze, grease and transmission fluid.
For use on oil pans, rear end housings, water pumps, valve covers, thermostat housings, electrical connections and wires. Seals windshields, sunroofs, doors, lights and hose connections.

here is blue

Blue RTV Silicone Instant Gasket

Replaces most pre-cut gaskets. Won't foul computer sensors. May also be used to coat gaskets for reliable seal. Resists high pressure and temperatures from -80°F to 600°F (-62°C to 315°C). Resists oil, transmission fluid, water and antifreeze. For use on water pumps, valve covers, oil pans, rear end housings, transmission pans, timing chain covers and thermostat housings.

 

I LOVE the copper silocone!! I use it on everything!


Arnald Wannabe......I didn't torque mine....i never do. Thin layer of silocone on the cover, around the holes!, and tighten it down little bit at a time....working from the top down. That puts silocone more towards the bottom where it's prone to dribble. Tighten til you think they're tight enough! At least that's how i do it.

 

I realy wish i had started this earlier. It took me about 2 hours tochange the rear diff fluid, but I haven't had it done since I bought the truck over 5 years and 41,500 miles ago so i thought it was time.

I followed the instructions and i think everything should be fine. The old fluid was a thick and gray, is this to be expected?

 

Was it "milky"?? Milky oil.....is water and oil mixed....looks kinda like milk. The best diff fluid i've drained....was SUPER DUPER thick...and green. 25yr old axle you know...lol. My transfer case fluid was brown at only 75k!

That's good you got it done though. I like to get the cover super duper clean before installing.

 

It looked kind of like thinned paint. I sitll have it and may take a picture.

It is quite possible there was some water in there. I just had a pinion seal leak fixed two days ago. I would guess that it is the color that the oil would be after not being changed for almost 6 years.

The manual states I needed 75w-140 full synthetic and a friction modifier. I didn't find any metal shavings and I haven't had any issues with the rear axle. I hope I am fine.

 

I've read that with the Torsen, you don't need friction modifier...because it's not a clutch type limited slip. Dude, your fine.

 

I think I am too, but I don't have any experience to actually say I am. Heck i didn't even stay at a quality inn last night.

 

Copy that on the copper.. I've got 2 tubes of it.. If yoru gonna RTV something, you might as well use copper.. cause its cool, and yoru cool for using it.. and it adds HORSEPOWER!!!!

 

they dont heck i dont even put it in with my ford LS unit.

 

mine was horrible only after 20k miles. i think its just the tranny fuild being used in a transfer case

 

I just changed mine also. 50K miles and it still looked okay. I also used black RTV and followed the curing procedures on the package. I changed my brothers F-250's fluid and man it had 150K on it and smelled like burning clutch (he has no limited slid either).