swapping pvh style to live axle...how hard? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 01-09-2008
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swapping pvh style to live axle...how hard?

well, about 6 months ago I picked up a new vibration in my front end. I found that the inner bearings in the hub assemblies were shot. So I replaced the hub assembly. Well, it started again this morning on my way to work. It will not vibrate if I have the hubs in and locked though, but that is going to kill gas. Does anyone know of a specific sealed ball bearing setup that could be pressed in there to get rid of the ****ty needle bearings?

If not, I am considering getting rid of the crap design of the pvh hub setup(Ive got AVM manual's, but still dont like the "clamp on" attachment, plus this is my 3rd set) and going to the live axle setup like newer rangers. would i need any more or less, than the CV shafts and hub assemblies?

Or would it be better just to bite the bullet and do the SAS Ive been wanting.
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Old 01-09-2008
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SAS is way more involved

You will need new CVs and Hubs.

But you said Kill Gas mileage... ha its not any different than live axle.
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Old 01-09-2008
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so, w/o hubs locked in I get on avg 17mpg. and with hubs locked, on avg 15 to 16mpg. . I think I'll hit the drawing boards. If I were to do the SAS I would not be doing it like you did with the coil springs, I'd be running leaf springs, just for ease of things. I know there not all that simple, Ive done a few nissan's.
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Old 01-09-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNCCRang49
well, about 6 months ago I picked up a new vibration in my front end. I found that the inner bearings in the hub assemblies were shot. So I replaced the hub assembly. Well, it started again this morning on my way to work. It will not vibrate if I have the hubs in and locked though, but that is going to kill gas. Does anyone know of a specific sealed ball bearing setup that could be pressed in there to get rid of the ****ty needle bearings?

If not, I am considering getting rid of the crap design of the pvh hub setup(Ive got AVM manual's, but still dont like the "clamp on" attachment, plus this is my 3rd set) and going to the live axle setup like newer rangers. would i need any more or less, than the CV shafts and hub assemblies?

Or would it be better just to bite the bullet and do the SAS Ive been wanting.
SAS it! You'll be forever breaking and wearing out stuff too quickly no matter what you do if you keep the Ranger IFS.
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Old 01-09-2008
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John how can you say that when i read in other threads that if you knew how much work it was going to be you would not have done it in the first place.
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Old 01-09-2008
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Originally Posted by UNCCRang49
so, w/o hubs locked in I get on avg 17mpg. and with hubs locked, on avg 15 to 16mpg. . I think I'll hit the drawing boards. If I were to do the SAS I would not be doing it like you did with the coil springs, I'd be running leaf springs, just for ease of things. I know there not all that simple, Ive done a few nissan's.

coils are not that hard...
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Old 01-09-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
coils are not that hard...
x1000
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Old 01-09-2008
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Originally Posted by zabeard
John how can you say that when i read in other threads that if you knew how much work it was going to be you would not have done it in the first place.
Very simple really: I want to see someone else miserable so I can feel better, lol!

Now that it's over I'm glad I did it. But I wonder in truth if I would have taken it on.

There are simpler ways to do it than coils and many take that route.
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Old 01-09-2008
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only thing hard with coils is the track bar and drag link, line those up and your good to go.

most D44s from a ford do not need the Cs ground off to adjust caster, then either make a coil hoop mount or buy some buckets like you did.

leaf springs you have to make front and rear mounts for the springs.

both types require the pain steering conversion to a gear box, lines and frame mount not to mention the intermediate shaft.
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Old 01-10-2008
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Originally Posted by zabeard
only thing hard with coils is the track bar and drag link, line those up and your good to go.

most D44s from a ford do not need the Cs ground off to adjust caster, then either make a coil hoop mount or buy some buckets like you did.

leaf springs you have to make front and rear mounts for the springs.

both types require the pain steering conversion to a gear box, lines and frame mount not to mention the intermediate shaft.
I guess that's true. I keep hearing that leaf springs are "simpler", but I wonder sometimes. Like you say: much of the pain is the same no matter which route you take, lol.

With coils and radius arms you can do a lot with caster with the 2 to 7 degree c-bushings that are available. I'm running 4 degree in mine.

I didn't have to buy the buckets actually -- they came off a truck that was being cut apart for scrap at work...one of the advantages of working at a steel mill where steel is recycled. But they're available off of other old trucks or Jeff's Bronco Graveyard sells the same ones I have. I probably would buy more "generic" weld-on ones if I did it again.
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Old 01-10-2008
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Only 4? Tracks good? Does not wonder? I Only have 4 but I think it could be better. I hear several people running 5.5 or 6, so on my D44 that is what I am aiming for. My pinion angle will actually be better with the D44 and more caster than with the D30 and 4* of caster. I am kinda excited about it.

Did you take yours to the alignment shop for toe?
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Old 01-10-2008
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It's hard to tell, Zach. My steering box is absolute crap and I'm replacing it this weekend. It actually has a cracked sector shaft. I'm told it was probably that way when I bought it but it's been "opening up". One of the hazards of buying used on eBay, lol.

Once that part of the steering is out of the loop, I'll revisit it. I've got some 7 degree here as well...or almost a set of them. The set was sent to me with three 7 degree and one 2 degree and I have to get back to the vendor to get it straightened out.

Various changes I made improved the wandering -- but the steering box still has too much play so you still have to fight to keep it centered on rougher roads.

No, no formal alignment yet.
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Old 01-10-2008
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I hear you on the steering box, I bought one from ebay and had the same problem. Ended up still saving me money since i could use it as a core.
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Old 01-10-2008
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Exactly. That's how I'm looking at it.
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Old 01-10-2008
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so, Im considering more and more the SAS. especially since I just ran into a awesome deal. a buddy of mine that I have known for a few years now, just announced that he is getting rid of the axles he was going to do his explorer with, and for a reasonable price. how does front and rear d44 widetrack axles out of a waggy sound?
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Old 01-10-2008
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the 8.8 is stronger than the D44 rear axle.
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Old 01-10-2008
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Keep the 8.8, get the 44 front. Are they high pinion in that? Disc brake?
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Old 01-10-2008
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waggys are not high pinion...

they are disc brake tho and i think 6 lug.
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Old 01-10-2008
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Stupid
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Old 01-11-2008
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so the 8.8s are stronger than the d44? well, Ive got to rebuild mine anyway I guess. i guess the reason I was gonna slap the d44 under there was for matching widths on my axles, and then the wide variety of lockers and gears for the d44.
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Old 01-11-2008
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well for width and lug pattern that would be an advantage plus they dont use C-Clips. Atleast I dont think so. The ring and pinion is much smaller than the 8.8 I think.
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Old 01-12-2008
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ring size isnt that much smaller, its a 8.5", and there are more upgrades to make it stronger. I have the 8.8 28 spline. the d44 is 30 spline. I want to run 35s, no more than 37s.

Dana 44 & Dana 44 TTB
Applications: Front and rear
Type: Mainly semi-floating, although there were some very rare full-floating units
Axle Shaft Diameter: 1.30 Inches
Spline count: 30 (after '72; prior to '72, some were 19-spline)
Ring Gear Diameter: 8.5 Inch
Factory ratios: 2.76:1 through 5.89:1
Maximum tire size for stock axle: 35-inch
Weight (solid axle): 240 Pounds
Strong point: Wide availability and significant aftermarket support in parts and upgrades
Weak point: Carrier and spider gears, U-joints, ring-and-pinion
Building secrets: Upgrade the stock carrier and spider gears because they're notoriously weak. Also, if you've indexed the axle to improve pinion angle, use a diff cover from a '78 or '79 Ford -ton high-pinion '44 because it allows for a larger quantity of lube and a higher fill point


Ford 8.8-Inch

Application: Rear

Type: Semi-floating
Axle Shaft Diameter: 1.31 Inches

Spline count: 28, 31
Ring Gear Diameter: 8.8 Inch

Factory ratios: 2.47:1 through 4.10:1

Maximum tire size for stock axle: 37-inch

Strong point: Approximately the same pinion diameter as a Dana 60, mass availability

Weak point: C-clips

Building secrets: The stock diff cover is very thin, so replace it with a quality aftermarket cover. Also, apply silicone to the pinion splines because some builders have found that they're prone to leaking

Aftermarket alternatives: Currie Industries, Custom Differentials, DTS Custom Service, Mountain Off Road Enterprises
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