I have a 2002 Ranger 4.0 4x4 Off-road. Over the weekend I started hearing a squeaking sound that varied with the throttle, so I guessed the u-joints needed work. I took it in (no garage or tools available atm), and the garage called me later in the day saying my driveshaft was unrepairable, that I needed a new one to the tune of $600. I told them to hold off.

Now, a little research found me some sites claiming that Ford did indeed make some disposable driveshafts, with pinned u-joints, but in the F-series, not the Ranger.

Has anyone come across a non-rebuildable driveshaft in an 01+ Ranger, or is the garage playing me for a fool?

Edit: Visited this morning and took a look for myself. Aluminum ears seem like a very bad design [tm] as they deform quite easily removing the old, and make it impossible to put the new in properly (snap rings fit on one side, can't get them in on the other). Hooray for cost-cutting.

 

An update so that others may benefit from my stupidity.

Take truck to trusted garage because of rotational squeak. Diagnosis needs new u-joints. Get call later saying I need new driveshaft. Visit garage, mechanic and service writer show me that u-joints they got from Ford dealership are too long. Mechanic assumes that slip yoke got tweaked at some point. They also point out that the engineering number on my driveshaft (1L54-4602-JC) is listed by Ford as having "No serviceable components at this time. Must order complete." As I need my truck, I ok getting a new driveshaft, and pay for the work via credit card.

After getting truck back, I call the owner and complain about having to buy a new driveshaft because his mechanic screwed mine up. He states that the mechanic was wrong, the driveshaft was *not* bent during the work, but instead that there are no u-joints he could buy that would fit. Having trust in the shop, and having him provide me with pages of documentation from a Ford engineering rep that shows the 'No serviceable parts at this time,' we go around and around for a while until finally I stop by and the owner measures the diff end u-joint and says "I'll give you your money back if you can bring me a u-joint that fits."

It took about 10 minutes of searching once I got home to find out that the dimensions he gave me are those of a Spicer 1310 u-joint, so I'm guessing that the mechanic a: didn't check the new u-joint cross against the old to make sure they were the same either before putting it in or after finding out it didn't fit, and b: never measured the old u-joint to find out what would actually fit.

This is the part that might save some people some trouble. On *some* Rangers with aluminum drive shafts, the replacement u-joints that Ford lists in their parts inventory for that specific truck, down to the VIN#, will not actually fit the drive shaft that's actually on the truck. In fact, places like Summit Racing list the proper u-joint for my truck as a Spicer 1330, which is about 0.400" too wide. I'm pretty sure this little conundrum might even have given a dealership a problem.

 

Crazy stuff.... Never heard of these type of issues with the aluminum shaft.


I believe all 98+ Rangers have 1330's on the rear shaft. 1310's were found on older trucks with two-piece rear shafts. Do you happen to have a comparison picture of a 1330 next to your removed shaft?? My buddy installed an aluminum shaft to his stock steel shafted truck.....and it had 1330's.

 

Unfortunately I don't have any pictures. The shop still has the old driveshaft. I went there and looked at it, and the 1330 the dealership sold the shop, just the body itself, is too wide and extends past the snap rings. The shop owner measured the old u-joint that was still in the differential end of the shaft while I was there, and the dimensions are exactly those of a 1310.

Maybe Ford found themselves with a batch of driveshafts that had 1310s in them and decided to use them up? I have no idea. I certainly think my truck is an oddity. It never had the driveshaft worked on previously, so I can only assume it came from the factory this way. Maybe the fact that it had 1310s in it is the reason that Ford lists it as 'No serviceable parts'? I think only those people who have that specific drive shaft engineering number (1L54-4602-JC) are going to run into this problem.

 

Still find it kind of odd they would make those type of small changes on ONE shaft. Wouldn't that also mean the flange that bolts to the axle flange is smaller as well?



Could it be possible the joint was a 1310+1330 joint? Conversion joint?

 

I just did the U joints in my rear aluminum driveshaft. I ran into the same problem at O'Reilys. Picked up two of the joints they showed in their system, and I even looked them up myself to make sure they had the right part number. Like the OP found, these were 1330 sized joints which were too long. End cap size is the same though. I went back and got 1310 sized joints and they are the correct size.

 

ok... so did you get your $$$ back? id be up that techs *** for the cash.

 

I went back to O'Reilys two days after I bought the wrong ones. I didn't have my receipt, but the guy recognized me from when I came in the first time. I told him that apparently there is some sort of issue between model/part number. I took in my old U joint and told him which ones I thought I actually needed. He pulled one out and the 1310 sized joint was a match. He just traded me out the 1310s for the 1330s.

 

What size U joint would one need to find for a 2001 2.3L Ranger? I can't seem to find out which one is needed...

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

here you go

More Information for DANA HOLDING CORP 513101X

just type in the dana number in the search box and voila!!!

 

Appreciate the info but what do you mean type in the dana number? Is that located on the u-joint or driveshaft?

That one that you linked says it's for 4wd? I also don't know what they mean by front shaft/rear shaft? Are they the same universal joint for nboth?

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

most u-joints have the number stamped on the u-joint body

but a google search turned up only 1 u-joint 1310 for your year of 4 cylinder ranger

 

Appreciate your help! I kept getting all sorts of different U-joints and just didn't know which one.

I looked at the rear of the drive shaft and it appears that the rubber boots are all hard and cracked. Same with the front of the drive shaft. Is it safe to say I would use this u-joint for both front and rear?

They look the same but I can't find any ford or other markings on it. I believe this is probably original to the truck and has 160k miles on them....

Thanks much,
-Nigel

 

Actually going on Dana's website popped this up?

Seems like there are different part numbers everywhere, why is their site saying getting a 1350?

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

1330 and 1350 u-joints are for the F-150 and F-250 series pickups

rangers have always used the 1310 u-joints front and rear for 2001 to 2011 ranger 4x4`s

 

I'm not a 4x4 though, does that matter? Just a 2001 XLT 2.3L RWD.

Just want to make sure before I order two of them from RockAuto. :-)

Thank you for all of your help so far! I really appreciate it!

-Nigel

 

a search turned up MOOG 354 non greasable u-joints

the 1310 u-joints are for the 2.3 / 2.5 and the 3.0l engine rangers

the 1330 u-joints are for the 4.0L rangers from what i can tell

you would be better off just going to napa and buying 2 of the 1310 and 2 of the 1330 joints

( that is what i will be doing , from reading all of the misinformation on the WEB )

and return what 2 u-joints did not fit

 

I just ordered two of the DANA HOLDING CORP 513101X.

Should have them in this week. So when pressing these out do I re-use the caps, or these come with new ones?

This is the first I will be changing u joints, doesn't look difficult, more breaking loose the rusty parts I'm sure...

-Nigel

 

measure the inner boss 1st before you start to whack the caps out .

the measurement between both caps should be the same

and NO!!! do not re-use the old caps ,,, the new u-joint comes with new caps and needle bearings inside

 

Wanted to update.

Got the 1310's and they are too small....

See pictures:

I'm going to order the 1330's now off rockauto's site. Their site did recommend the 1330's and said it would fit RWD. along with Dana's site for reference pictured above. 1310's no go....

Going to order those and will post up once I get them.

This hopefully will help those if unsure of size comparison.


-Nigel

 

the 1330 is a beefy u-joint for 4 cylinder engine

weird , everything i googled said it was a 1310 joint

 

Makes me wonder if it is perhaps because of my rear end? I have 4:10 gears? Seems odd for a 2.3L...lol

Who knows though. Found them on amazon so I will have them by Saturday. Will post pictures and updates then. :-) I am actually quite surprized at how easy these were to press out using the ball joint press... I thought I'd be struggling with it. The rear was SHOT. I will post a picture...OMG!

I am almost 100% positive this has to be why my rear end was squeaking when I would reverse.... HAS to be??!! Looks like that **** has been like that for a wihle, so shame on me. I didn't even know one had to replace ujoints until reading on here. These are original as they say Ford on them, so 2001, 160k miles on them.

I can't wait to put the news ones on, should feel nice and smooth I hope!

-Nigel

 

that is why i will installing genuine greasable spicer u-joints on my ride

little bit expensive on rockauto but well worth it

WHOA??? picture 1 shows that cup was ready to weld itself to the joint

 

True that, I got genuine greasable spicer u-joints coming! Dumb question... how much grease do I pump into them? Keep pumping grease until it starts coming out of the boots?

Also the spicers that are coming have the zerk fitting on the end of the caps... does it matter which way it's facing? Horizontal vs. vertical? IE:

If looking at it from a clock 12 o'clock...etc See picture of two arrows? (excuse the make shift paint diagram..lol) The cross is the u-joint

I notice some of the zerk fittings are inside and not on the outside cap, which makes it hard I'm sure to grease. I was planning on putting it at the 3 o'clock position on the picture since that would be easiest to grease. I feel like 12 o clock would be blocked by the transmission gear, and the 6oclock position will have the rest of the driveshaft in the way?


Thanks,
-Nigel

 

you should have gotten the u-joints with the zerk fitting in body , not the cap

cap zerk fittings have been very problematic as to pumping grease into them

every joint i installed with the cap zerk fitting , only 3 caps were getting grease , the 4th one received very little

i always install body zerk joints now

pump grease in until the grease starts coming through the seals and you are good to go