Traction-lok lsd - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 08-20-2008
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Traction-lok lsd

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

This comes stock in some rangers, correct? How tight is it?
Will it give me a real 2 wheel burnout everytime(not what I'm planning to do)
And is it any good or should I save my money for something else?
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Old 08-20-2008
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Yea it'll do a two tire burnout every time. It's a good medium between a locker and open diff. I bought/installed/rebuilt that same diff (but used) for $100 in my truck..
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Old 08-20-2008
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yea you may have to cut the wheel one full turn to the left. just make sure you have the right spline count and all the numbers match up

you could also look into this

http://www.4wheelparts.com/search.aspx?kw=lock+right+
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Old 08-20-2008
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No need to cut the wheel, unless your engine needs help breaking the tires loose. I have the same design limited slip in my 'Cuda, dead tracks if I mash the pedal.
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Old 08-20-2008
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oh im sorry u have limited slip i have open diff thats what i have to do
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Old 08-20-2008
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Yea, you may be able to spin both tires with an open diff. If you shock the tires well enough, but in a situation where you really need traction, you'll just get the one tire fire.
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Old 08-20-2008
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A piece of rubbish in my opinion. Didn't do a damn thing for me except almost leave me stuck in knee deep mud. That's why I got a locker. If you're gonna street your truck, I'd say leave it, if you got it. If you're gonna wheel and want traction, I'd say dump the thing and either buy a lunchbox of carrier locker.
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Old 08-20-2008
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If you're going into knee deep worth of mud, you should have gotten a locker to begin with. For the occasional wheeler, they work great. Just like everything, depends on intended use!
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Old 08-20-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue_oval View Post
yea you may have to cut the wheel one full turn to the left.

What do you mean by this?

I don't really want an automatic locker because I don't really like how they handle on road, this is my DD.(driven a truck with a detroit locker). I also am not looking into doing any burnouts, just want an idea how much they slip.

Whats the advantage to a gear system such as this besides matinence?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
If you're going into knee deep worth of mud, you should have gotten a locker to begin with. For the occasional wheeler, they work great. Just like everything, depends on intended use!
Not really, I know guys that charge mud in open diffs. Just keep em spinning (especially in the volcanic clay we have out here). Trac-lok=trail lousy.
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Old 08-20-2008
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That really doesn't make sense on how an trac lok can be any worse, what-so-ever, than an open diff. if both were used in the same setup. Mechanically it's just not really do-able. Because a worn out trac loc, is basically a open diff....
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Old 08-20-2008
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Yeah that doesn't make any sense how would 1 tire be better than 2.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadfoot View Post
What do you mean by this?

I don't really want an automatic locker because I don't really like how they handle on road, this is my DD.(driven a truck with a detroit locker). I also am not looking into doing any burnouts, just want an idea how much they slip.

Whats the advantage to a gear system such as this besides matinence?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Actually, a detroit is full carrier, full-time locker, unless you are referring to the detroit soft locker (which I am not sure they make for the 8.8). Anyway, if you are looking for a good LS, I know several guys with true-tracs (that are weekend warriors) and like they way they handle. Me, I like my ECTED (but I gotta send her out for a rebuild). The other option for more $$$$ is the Eaton E-locker. Several members on here have it a like it. You can go from open diff to locker w/ the flick of a switch (doesn't run on clutches and won't need a rebuild; that's a plus)
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  #14  
Old 08-20-2008
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id say spend the money and get an automatic locker best bet and well worth the money
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Old 08-20-2008
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...really does depend on the intended use before dropping $500+ for a differential.

(another subtle asking for the original poster to include what they plan on using this limited slip/locker for...wheeling - what kind?, donuts, burnouts, ???)
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
That really doesn't make sense on how an trac lok can be any worse, what-so-ever, than an open diff. if both were used in the same setup. Mechanically it's just not really do-able. Because a worn out trac loc, is basically a open diff....
You need to read the post again. Didn't say an open diff was better, just said it can be done. As far as trac-loc, I don't know what the lock up is (25, 35 or 50 percent lock up) but I do know that if your traction wheel looses traction (either you lose surface or a wheel off the ground) you'll feel like you have an open diff. I can verify that. So don't expect to get "two wheel" traction, especially if you have a wheel off of the ground.
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  #17  
Old 08-20-2008
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
...really does depend on the intended use before dropping $500+ for a differential.

(another subtle asking for the original poster to include what they plan on using this limited slip/locker for...wheeling - what kind?, donuts, burnouts, ???)
No burnouts (maybe once in a while) no doughnuts. 95% on road, snow and ice in winter, mostly sand and dirt offroading, not much thick mudd, no rock crawling.

Edit: All terrain tires if that matters
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Old 08-20-2008
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I've said nothing but it depends on the use. The clutch limited slip is NOT intended to be used with one tire off the ground. So if thats what you are doing, and you are complaining about it...it's like bringing a knife to a gunfight, or complaining a $5 rachet isn't as good as a $90 snap on, you're playing with the wrong gear for the territory. As with anything that wears, it can be up to about 80% when new, and go down from there. It's more intended for street use, towing, and light off roading (not 1 wheel off the ground or knee high mud). With that in mind, I won't be one to say "trac lock is a bunch of rubbish"...because it isn't...if you use it like you're supposed to. You try and rock crawl, or seriously mud, it will be "rubbish" because it's the wrong differential for that.

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No burnouts (maybe once in a while) no doughnuts. 95% on road, snow and ice in winter, mostly sand and dirt offroading, not much thick mudd, no rock crawling.

If you ask for my non-professional opinion, a trac-lok limited slip is up your alley. As long as you aren't trying to 'wheel' through a beach (really thick/shifty sand), 2ft of snow, or one wheel off the ground, it'll work just fine. Doesn't sound like you'd "need" a locker. It's easy to 'recommend' the $500+ diff when it's not your money, but my recommendation is that is not necessary and run a lsd. Thats what I run, and installed about 2-3weeks ago. It'll certainly light both tires up in a burnout. lol
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  #19  
Old 08-20-2008
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vote against an auto locker (winter=possible black ice). IDK, if I were you I'd be leaning toward spending the cash on a selectable (switch from open to locker) Up 2 U. Whatever you think will work best. My advice, do some homework on the products out there. Investigate and ask questions. Randy's Ring and Pinion folks were real helpful when I bought my LS/locker four years and some months ago.
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  #20  
Old 08-20-2008
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I don't see why auto lockers are so much worse than open diffs on ice? I would like an E-locker but it just seems like too much money.
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Old 08-20-2008
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Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
I've said nothing but it depends on the use. The clutch limited slip is NOT intended to be used with one tire off the ground. So if thats what you are doing, and you are complaining about it...it's like bringing a knife to a gunfight, or complaining a $5 rachet isn't as good as a $90 snap on, you're playing with the wrong gear for the territory. As with anything that wears, it can be up to about 80% when new, and go down from there. It's more intended for street use, towing, and light off roading (not 1 wheel off the ground or knee high mud). With that in mind, I won't be one to say "trac lock is a bunch of rubbish"...because it isn't...if you use it like you're supposed to. You try and rock crawl, or seriously mud, it will be "rubbish" because it's the wrong differential for that.




If you ask for my non-professional opinion, a trac-lok limited slip is up your alley. As long as you aren't trying to 'wheel' through a beach (really thick/shifty sand), 2ft of snow, or one wheel off the ground, it'll work just fine. Doesn't sound like you'd "need" a locker. It's easy to 'recommend' the $500+ diff when it's not your money, but my recommendation is that is not necessary and run a lsd. Thats what I run, and installed about 2-3weeks ago. It'll certainly light both tires up in a burnout. lol

Thanks for enlightening me with your wisdom. Thanks for telling me how I should use my truck too. I just offered up an opinion, if you can't handle it...too bad. So before going in mud I should have bought a locker I have faith in my driving as my driving will get me into and out of any terrain that is out there. I rely on parts and tools to do what they are supposed to do, make the job easier. Look, guy whose thread this is, if you want to test limits (do some trails that may be challenging or hit the dunes or the beach) and are concerned about adding a traction device, my best advice is know your driving skill level and ability, and try it out before you go and buy anything. Heck you may not need anything at all.

Oh ya And genius, no, you won't get 80 percent lock up out of trac-loc, no way.

Ya, and that's why I'm recommending something expensive, so I can seem him needlessly waste money:23
The point was to try help the guy buy the best product for the job. At this point, I would say, try your truck out on the obstacles out there (go with friends who have rigs). If you get stuck, then you can figure out what you need.
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Old 08-20-2008
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since we're in the business of talkin bout this. . . what if you have one to rebuild i was on summit and they had two different prices on the same style rebuild kit. . . and can u take an open diff and put the clutches in and the S style piece that sits inbetwen the spider gears and turn that into a LS? i heard you could but not without modification to the housing
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Old 08-20-2008
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Originally Posted by leadfoot View Post
I don't see why auto lockers are so much worse than open diffs on ice? I would like an E-locker but it just seems like too much money.
A locker or a LS will tend to either over compensate for the loss of traction or completely pull you around. I've had it happen. Thank god for the Oregon DOT and Highways, that they have ten miles of grass and dirt shoulder that a two lockers can dig into to
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Originally Posted by chevyslayer925 View Post
since we're in the business of talkin bout this. . . what if you have one to rebuild i was on summit and they had two different prices on the same style rebuild kit. . . and can u take an open diff and put the clutches in and the S style piece that sits inbetwen the spider gears and turn that into a LS? i heard you could but not without modification to the housing

That's sounds like a trac loc to me. You can rebuild it. You just have to remove the spring (S piece) and remove the spiders and clutches. Explorerforums should have a detailed write-up. My Auburn unit goes back to Auburn gear and gets clutches and electricals replaced for $125. Not bad, but some folks prefer not having to worry bout clutches. At this point, I can see where they are coming from. As far as putting the rebuild kit into an open carrier, that's a no go. Two different carriers. If you have open carrier and are looking for a traction device, I would recommend a lock-right or a no-slip.
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  #25  
Old 08-20-2008
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I have gotten stuck wheeling and thats why I wan't more traction. I don't do much where I have wheels off the ground but I mostly get stuck in sand with four wheel drive and aired down all-terrain tires. I also hate it when I'm driving on compact snow in the winter and one tire in the front and rear just unloads and spins. Alltogether $500 is the most I would spend.

Also will a c-clip eliminator work with track-lok?

Last edited by leadfoot; 08-20-2008 at 11:18 PM.
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