Traction-lok lsd
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From: MA
Traction-lok lsd
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
This comes stock in some rangers, correct? How tight is it?
Will it give me a real 2 wheel burnout everytime(not what I'm planning to do)
And is it any good or should I save my money for something else?
This comes stock in some rangers, correct? How tight is it?
Will it give me a real 2 wheel burnout everytime(not what I'm planning to do)
And is it any good or should I save my money for something else?
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Worcester MA
yea you may have to cut the wheel one full turn to the left. just make sure you have the right spline count and all the numbers match up
you could also look into this
http://www.4wheelparts.com/search.aspx?kw=lock+right+
you could also look into this
http://www.4wheelparts.com/search.aspx?kw=lock+right+
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A piece of rubbish in my opinion. Didn't do a damn thing for me except almost leave me stuck in knee deep mud. That's why I got a locker. If you're gonna street your truck, I'd say leave it, if you got it. If you're gonna wheel and want traction, I'd say dump the thing and either buy a lunchbox of carrier locker.
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What do you mean by this?
I don't really want an automatic locker because I don't really like how they handle on road, this is my DD.(driven a truck with a detroit locker). I also am not looking into doing any burnouts, just want an idea how much they slip.
Whats the advantage to a gear system such as this besides matinence?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Not really, I know guys that charge mud in open diffs. Just keep em spinning (especially in the volcanic clay we have out here). Trac-lok=trail lousy.
That really doesn't make sense on how an trac lok can be any worse, what-so-ever, than an open diff. if both were used in the same setup. Mechanically it's just not really do-able. Because a worn out trac loc, is basically a open diff....
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What do you mean by this?
I don't really want an automatic locker because I don't really like how they handle on road, this is my DD.(driven a truck with a detroit locker). I also am not looking into doing any burnouts, just want an idea how much they slip.
Whats the advantage to a gear system such as this besides matinence?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I don't really want an automatic locker because I don't really like how they handle on road, this is my DD.(driven a truck with a detroit locker). I also am not looking into doing any burnouts, just want an idea how much they slip.
Whats the advantage to a gear system such as this besides matinence?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
...really does depend on the intended use before dropping $500+ for a differential.
(another subtle asking for the original poster to include what they plan on using this limited slip/locker for...wheeling - what kind?, donuts, burnouts, ???)
(another subtle asking for the original poster to include what they plan on using this limited slip/locker for...wheeling - what kind?, donuts, burnouts, ???)
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You need to read the post again. Didn't say an open diff was better, just said it can be done. As far as trac-loc, I don't know what the lock up is (25, 35 or 50 percent lock up) but I do know that if your traction wheel looses traction (either you lose surface or a wheel off the ground) you'll feel like you have an open diff. I can verify that. So don't expect to get "two wheel" traction, especially if you have a wheel off of the ground.
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From: MA
Edit: All terrain tires if that matters
I've said nothing but it depends on the use. The clutch limited slip is NOT intended to be used with one tire off the ground. So if thats what you are doing, and you are complaining about it...it's like bringing a knife to a gunfight, or complaining a $5 rachet isn't as good as a $90 snap on, you're playing with the wrong gear for the territory. As with anything that wears, it can be up to about 80% when new, and go down from there. It's more intended for street use, towing, and light off roading (not 1 wheel off the ground or knee high mud). With that in mind, I won't be one to say "trac lock is a bunch of rubbish"...because it isn't...if you use it like you're supposed to. You try and rock crawl, or seriously mud, it will be "rubbish" because it's the wrong differential for that.
If you ask for my non-professional opinion, a trac-lok limited slip is up your alley. As long as you aren't trying to 'wheel' through a beach (really thick/shifty sand), 2ft of snow, or one wheel off the ground, it'll work just fine. Doesn't sound like you'd "need" a locker. It's easy to 'recommend' the $500+ diff when it's not your money, but my recommendation is that is not necessary and run a lsd. Thats what I run, and installed about 2-3weeks ago. It'll certainly light both tires up in a burnout. lol
If you ask for my non-professional opinion, a trac-lok limited slip is up your alley. As long as you aren't trying to 'wheel' through a beach (really thick/shifty sand), 2ft of snow, or one wheel off the ground, it'll work just fine. Doesn't sound like you'd "need" a locker. It's easy to 'recommend' the $500+ diff when it's not your money, but my recommendation is that is not necessary and run a lsd. Thats what I run, and installed about 2-3weeks ago. It'll certainly light both tires up in a burnout. lol
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vote against an auto locker (winter=possible black ice). IDK, if I were you I'd be leaning toward spending the cash on a selectable (switch from open to locker) Up 2 U. Whatever you think will work best. My advice, do some homework on the products out there. Investigate and ask questions. Randy's Ring and Pinion folks were real helpful when I bought my LS/locker four years and some months ago.
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I've said nothing but it depends on the use. The clutch limited slip is NOT intended to be used with one tire off the ground. So if thats what you are doing, and you are complaining about it...it's like bringing a knife to a gunfight, or complaining a $5 rachet isn't as good as a $90 snap on, you're playing with the wrong gear for the territory. As with anything that wears, it can be up to about 80% when new, and go down from there. It's more intended for street use, towing, and light off roading (not 1 wheel off the ground or knee high mud). With that in mind, I won't be one to say "trac lock is a bunch of rubbish"...because it isn't...if you use it like you're supposed to. You try and rock crawl, or seriously mud, it will be "rubbish" because it's the wrong differential for that.
If you ask for my non-professional opinion, a trac-lok limited slip is up your alley. As long as you aren't trying to 'wheel' through a beach (really thick/shifty sand), 2ft of snow, or one wheel off the ground, it'll work just fine. Doesn't sound like you'd "need" a locker. It's easy to 'recommend' the $500+ diff when it's not your money, but my recommendation is that is not necessary and run a lsd. Thats what I run, and installed about 2-3weeks ago. It'll certainly light both tires up in a burnout. lol
If you ask for my non-professional opinion, a trac-lok limited slip is up your alley. As long as you aren't trying to 'wheel' through a beach (really thick/shifty sand), 2ft of snow, or one wheel off the ground, it'll work just fine. Doesn't sound like you'd "need" a locker. It's easy to 'recommend' the $500+ diff when it's not your money, but my recommendation is that is not necessary and run a lsd. Thats what I run, and installed about 2-3weeks ago. It'll certainly light both tires up in a burnout. lol
Thanks for enlightening me with your wisdom. Thanks for telling me how I should use my truck too. I just offered up an opinion, if you can't handle it...too bad
. So before going in mud I should have bought a locker
I have faith in my driving as my driving will get me into and out of any terrain that is out there. I rely on parts and tools to do what they are supposed to do, make the job easier. Look, guy whose thread this is, if you want to test limits (do some trails that may be challenging or hit the dunes or the beach) and are concerned about adding a traction device, my best advice is know your driving skill level and ability, and try it out before you go and buy anything. Heck you may not need anything at all. Oh ya And genius, no, you won't get 80 percent lock up out of trac-loc, no way.
Ya, and that's why I'm recommending something expensive, so I can seem him needlessly waste money:23
The point was to try help the guy buy the best product for the job. At this point, I would say, try your truck out on the obstacles out there (go with friends who have rigs). If you get stuck, then you can figure out what you need.
since we're in the business of talkin bout this. . . what if you have one to rebuild i was on summit and they had two different prices on the same style rebuild kit. . . and can u take an open diff and put the clutches in and the S style piece that sits inbetwen the spider gears and turn that into a LS? i heard you could but not without modification to the housing
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since we're in the business of talkin bout this. . . what if you have one to rebuild i was on summit and they had two different prices on the same style rebuild kit. . . and can u take an open diff and put the clutches in and the S style piece that sits inbetwen the spider gears and turn that into a LS? i heard you could but not without modification to the housing
That's sounds like a trac loc to me. You can rebuild it. You just have to remove the spring (S piece) and remove the spiders and clutches. Explorerforums should have a detailed write-up. My Auburn unit goes back to Auburn gear and gets clutches and electricals replaced for $125. Not bad, but some folks prefer not having to worry bout clutches. At this point, I can see where they are coming from. As far as putting the rebuild kit into an open carrier, that's a no go. Two different carriers. If you have open carrier and are looking for a traction device, I would recommend a lock-right or a no-slip.
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I have gotten stuck wheeling and thats why I wan't more traction. I don't do much where I have wheels off the ground but I mostly get stuck in sand with four wheel drive and aired down all-terrain tires. I also hate it when I'm driving on compact snow in the winter and one tire in the front and rear just unloads and spins. Alltogether $500 is the most I would spend.
Also will a c-clip eliminator work with track-lok?
Also will a c-clip eliminator work with track-lok?
Last edited by leadfoot; Aug 20, 2008 at 10:18 PM.
