Soo as i had posted in another thread that got no responses, i went to get my 4.56s put int he other day but after ripping apart my rear end they found i had a torsen rear end with the center "block" instead of the "pin" They are saying they would need to grind down either 4 or 5 teeth to make 4.56s work or i would need a new carrier. Does anybody have any experience with this? I told them to just give me my truck back so i am holding off on this until i get some responses... will 4.56's work with this setup, if so has anybody on here done it? I need to know before i go out and purchase a new carrier.

Here's a pic of what im dealing with... the center "block" instead of the pin.. and the reason why they are saying they would have to grind down 4 or 5 teeth.

 

i'd try looking at the thread you got that picture from. lulululul.
but torsens are junk anyways, so no worries there. just get a locker and do it right.


https://www.ranger-forums.com/showth...ghlight=torsen

 

Nah, you don't have to grind anything. Some do though. It's completely up to you.

If it were mine and they won't do it without grinding a ton of teeth I'd get a different limited slip or locker. Too bad you aren't closer, I'd do it for you.

 

They sent you the wrong kit and wont refund you? And the shop charged you 4 hrs of labor to find out it wouldn't work? Sounds like ur getting a rough deal bro. Buy an open diff, a locker and do it that way. Sell the other crap you dont need to make some money back.

Also see that you read that other thread 2 days ago and knew about the potential problems and still took it to the shop. I have to ask... Why?

 

Yeah, in order to upgrade your gear set, the ring gear needs to be ground down where the block goes into the carrier. It's a lil messed up, but it's what has to be done. By doing that, you're also jeopardizing the strength of the gear in that area. It's not worth it. Gears are important, not something you can skim over and half *** (not saying you're not doing it right, actually but asking questions you're doing it right in my book). I honestly, would ditch the torsen. They're fine for stock gears, but anything over 4.10's and it's time to go with either some kind of locker, or a trac-lock from an expo's 8.8.

When I did gears, I ditched the torsen. Running 4.88's with a Lock-right and not looking back at that Torsen.

 

I took it to the shop BEFORE i foudn that thread. And i didnt end up paying the shop **** all i told them to stuff it.. but if it werent for them i wouldnt have known the setup i got in the rear so gunna have to wait and see wtf im gunna do

 

I know nothign about carriers, and i guess what i need to know is what carrier do i need or what is the cheapest route to making these gears fit.. cuz well im stuck with them now lol

 

Also... am i going to have problems throwing the 4.56's in the front d35 with the stock 4.10's??

 

Cheapest? It really depends on your purpose for the truck. Lock it with a lock right if you plan on using the truck off road. If it's just for drive-ability, I'd just run an expo open carrier from a junkyard until you're ready for a locker. You're gonna need an open carrier anyways to run one.

 

If it were me I'd use what you have. No need to grind the gears. It will work, trust me. I had the same set-up in my Ranger and didn't grind the gears. It works.

 

you had that giant "center block" thing?? well if you did and you say it works then im gunna go with it until someone proves me otherwise

 

Sure did, it's a very tight fit trying to get the block in, but it works just fine.

 

Hmm good to know man! if you did it i dont see why any "shop" couldnt do it then or why they are all telling me to get a new carrier when they havnt even tried the gears in there yet. Get my 8.8 4.56s soon so hopefully they will work like u say :)

 

They probably just want to do it the easy way. Shops rarely go above and beyond for anyone. That's exactly why I won't let anyone touch my vehicle if I can do the work myself. When I can't I request only certain people do the work. Sounds bad, but I've had too many things screwed up in the past.

 

I tried to get a quote from a shop for 4.56 or 4.88's. He told me they didnt fit and that i would chew threw gears and they could do it but would not warranty it. Seeing as half the forums have done it, i would say it is possible, so i chose not to go there when i need it done. Plus he wanted $1600 to do it. Just because a shop can do the job, doesnt mean they are necessarily the right ones to do it for you.

 

Correct me if wrong but is there enough space to put it in with the ring loose after all shims are set; then place the block put the pbrake on to hold the diff so you can torque it down then release and rotate it to torque in proper sequence? Just an idea or am I missing something...