will a steel driveshaft work with no mod inplace of my aluminum one?
will a steel driveshaft work with no mod inplace of my aluminum one?
Ya so I have come to the realization that my aluminum drive shaft is pretty mickey mouse, and was wondering if a steel shaft would be a direct bolt on.....
Joined: Jun 2004
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Originally Posted by rwenzing
An aluminum driveshaft is quite a bit more expensive and it is usually specified to control driveshaft whip at high vehicle speeds. Pound for pound, aluminum alloy can be every bit as strong as steel. For the same weight and diameter, the walls can be made 3 times as thick and that means more rigidity. If Ford spent the money on an aluminum shaft, it is for a reason, probably high speed driveshaft vibration.
I don't know the exact reason why they are found most often on the autos but it probably has to do with preventing damage to the transmission. Ford had a recall on 4WD Aerostars (close cousin to the Ranger powertrain) that were breaking transmissions and transfer cases due to high speed driveshaft vibration. The repair was a new transfer case rear output shaft bearing and an aluminum driveshaft in place of the steelie.
http://www.internetautoguide.com/aut...gon/index.html
I don't know the exact reason why they are found most often on the autos but it probably has to do with preventing damage to the transmission. Ford had a recall on 4WD Aerostars (close cousin to the Ranger powertrain) that were breaking transmissions and transfer cases due to high speed driveshaft vibration. The repair was a new transfer case rear output shaft bearing and an aluminum driveshaft in place of the steelie.
http://www.internetautoguide.com/aut...gon/index.html
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...um+drive+shaft
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,002
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From: Murfreesboro, TN
I went FROM a steel shaft to the Spicer Aluminum unit, for many reasons. Lighter weight (decrease in rotating mass @ high speed) was a biggie for me, but the thing is huge. Like Dano said; your U-joints will explode first. Promise.
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 479
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From: Connecticut
If it's a supercab and you go with the steel drive shaft, odds get better that you will experience the infamous "driveline clunk". The aluminum shafts are supposedly better at preventing that problem (although from what I've read that's debatable).
mine is aluminum, no issues. and i am sure i ride mine harder than you do. heck it bent when i was at the dunes and i still drove around with the bent one for a while.
its an expensive **** too. cost me 475 for a new one.
its an expensive **** too. cost me 475 for a new one.
Originally Posted by zabeard
mine is aluminum, no issues. and i am sure i ride mine harder than you do. heck it bent when i was at the dunes and i still drove around with the bent one for a while.
its an expensive **** too. cost me 475 for a new one.
its an expensive **** too. cost me 475 for a new one.
2fiddy for a steel one
Originally Posted by 99ranger4x4
2fiddy for a steel one
yeah i didnt care, i just took my stock aluminum one to the driveshaft shop and said fix it...
it was the last thing i needed to get my truck back on the road.
after spending 1000+ on repair parts that was nothin
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Austin/Houston, Tx
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
your are proving with threads like this you have no clue about vehicles its just shocking...
/end grammar police
Originally Posted by evnmn3
dude seriously
isnt that the point? To ask questions, no matter how ridiculous
isnt that the point? To ask questions, no matter how ridiculous
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
yes normally but its DAVE.. idk how he comes up with this stuff. and its never ending... been going on a while...
This is the ONLY time I will tell you this..
Shut the FU right now! Go read the ' Buffalo meet thread ' and consider your criticism at a time like now. THEN come back here and read your own responce.
