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Exterior Semi-Tech General discussion of exterior for the Ford Ranger.
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  #26  
Old 07-12-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FX4RangerMan
how much did it run joe?
TTL and out the door, it ran me $270
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  #27  
Old 07-12-2006
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Originally Posted by RockysFord
Did you watch them do it? did they remove the bed and tail gate to do it?? I saw "how to" pictures on some linex webcites and they show pictures of the bed off....it looks sweet....cant wait to get mine done...

I saw that on grants pictures, of the BL......i was woundering how you got the bolts off

Rocky
It took them about 3 1/2 hours, and NO, they did NOT take the bed off.
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  #28  
Old 07-12-2006
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Originally Posted by Sir Nuke
getting it done in Black, even the dealer suggested it in black, he told me that some of the colors start to fade after a while, and its more expensive to have it done a color. Not to mention, if its done in black, it will clean up a lot easier when I use it, the yellow would like like crap after I use it a lot and then the back won't will look that great.
thats what they told me at line-x the color ones fade. they said if I would have got it in color they recommend getting a UV coating every year. Screw that ! Black is a good choice it will look great with the yellow. I got the black line-x my truck is dark anyway but i think it looks great. My buddy has a rhino liner and it looks good.
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  #29  
Old 07-12-2006
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Originally Posted by Sir Nuke
As stated earlier, I had them do a UNDER the lip job so that if/when I get a hard cover it won't have any problems sealing. Well I just took a few pictures:
Looks good. See it in the rain reminds me. The guys that did mine I think they kind of screwed up a little and plugged the drains in the front of the bed where the bed meets the cab. Any time it would rain the bed would fill up with water in the front. I ended up just taking a hacksaw blade and pushing it down in the drains to open them up.
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  #30  
Old 07-12-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
btw hard covers seal fine on rhino, plus that way your paint doesnt get scratched from the hard cover all covers will do it.. doesnt matter you can have them re-spray the rails if you want later
How'd you guys do it? I am not a fan of body lifts so when he asked me I told him to cover the bolts. It makes the floor smoother and I use to sleep in there when I was camping. Plus they were going to add a fee on if they had to remove the bolts and make me sign a waiver, incase anything happened. Don't know what they were worried about, but they did.

~HJ
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  #31  
Old 07-12-2006
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Originally Posted by HAZZARDJOHN
How'd you guys do it? I am not a fan of body lifts so when he asked me I told him to cover the bolts. It makes the floor smoother and I use to sleep in there when I was camping. Plus they were going to add a fee on if they had to remove the bolts and make me sign a waiver, incase anything happened. Don't know what they were worried about, but they did.

~HJ
how did we do what cut the liner to remove the bolts? well grant stoped by the local rhino shop and asked them just sayed just use a REALLY REALLY Sharp utility knife. and thats what we used, Kevin took his time and cut all the bolts took out the first one's then put down the new washer which is bigger and but to the correct size just time consuming thats all. here is during pic..

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  #32  
Old 07-12-2006
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all youd have to do is take some tape and go over the bolt then cut around the bolt with a utility knife to clean up the tapes edge... i cant see them getting pissed off about that, but then again thats why i still say its not worth the money to get it spray in, especially after seeing drip marks in grants bed....
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  #33  
Old 07-12-2006
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doesnt bother me, that crap is extremely think so i dont care, and to me its a bed, i throw stuff back there, i dont take it to shows, so the drip mark doesnt bother me.... but yea joe, the cap seals wonderfully with the Rhino lining over the rails.......just something to think about later on down the line.....
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  #34  
Old 07-12-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4X2XLT
all youd have to do is take some tape and go over the bolt then cut around the bolt with a utility knife to clean up the tapes edge... i cant see them getting pissed off about that, but then again thats why i still say its not worth the money to get it spray in, especially after seeing drip marks in grants bed....
Well this is how I look at it you have three choices.

1. Do nothing, Then if you use your bed it looks like crap in a matter of months. You could not use your bed and wax it and wear cotten everytime you are near it. Kinda a waste but it looks pretty.

2. Plastic liner: Then it looks semi decent, but everything in the bed slides around, they get hot and warp. some you drill a bunch of holes in your box to bolt it down, and then the bed gets scratched and rusts out without you knowing it.

3. Get a Sprayed in liner. Which looks good most of the time. (I wasn't happy about that run either, but not much he could have done other than start over) it will stop it from rusting, you can throw anything back there and it will keep it from flopping around. It has a life time warranty.

IMO I think the only way to go is a sprayed in liner.

~HJ
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  #35  
Old 07-12-2006
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4. do it youself, save hundreds of dollars and makes sure its done right and your not pay extra to have your bolts taped over....

your not paying for the liner, your paying for the labor... for the most part the bed liners are all the same thing, its jsut that its a pain to prep and clean to get ready for the liner...
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  #36  
Old 07-12-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4X2XLT
all youd have to do is take some tape and go over the bolt then cut around the bolt with a utility knife to clean up the tapes edge... i cant see them getting pissed off about that, but then again thats why i still say its not worth the money to get it spray in, especially after seeing drip marks in grants bed....
you can go on and on about do it yourselfs i have the roll on arosol style bed liners i use for parts, no it would take days to even get close to the thickness of a Rhino liner. your talking a minimum thickness of 3/16" majority of it is a 1/4" and thicker. you can never convince me and most people on this thread that the roll in is better. i have seen the roll in's used the arosol style myself it doesnt impress me at all
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  #37  
Old 07-12-2006
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1/4 inch might be usefull if i was moving cinder blocks on a daily basis... but for simple rust prevention and good looks theres no diffrence...
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  #38  
Old 07-12-2006
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Just wait to see my 1/4" full truck protector in a few months....
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  #39  
Old 07-12-2006
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Let's see, Rollin Costs. (Just trying to rmemeber when I did it on my 01)

Herculiner = $60

Let's say my time is worth 30 bucks and hour (Guestimate)

Cleaning the bed out free of all dirt and grime was about an hour.

taping was about 3 hours

removing hardware abou a half an hour

Sanding about 6 hours. (Wanted it to look as good as possible so I touched everything)

Cleaning it before application 1 hour.

Painting 3 hours

Waiting for the second coat 3 hours

painting again 3 hours

waiting for the third coat 3 hours

painting 3 hours

let dry over night so we won't count it.

Removing tape and trimming the edges neatly with a razor blade 1 hour

reinstalling hardware: 1 hour

i case of beer for me and my friends 20 bucks

Six rolls of tape 12 bucks

roll of plastic sheething 6 bucks

couple bucks on razor blade

Grand total of $955 bucks

Puttin my four wheeler in it once and half of it getting scraped off by the wheels= Priceless

I paid $350 bucks for the rhino liner and I dropped it off in the morning and took it home that night. I gouged it once with my 4 wheeler ramps and took it back and they fixed it right there no questions asked.

~HJ
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  #40  
Old 07-12-2006
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John what location did you get your line-x sprayed at?
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  #41  
Old 07-12-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoeking
John what location did you get your line-x sprayed at?
I had Rhino Lining done and it was next door to Tousley Ford (Where I used to work and where I bought the truck) in White Bear Lake. Thye were good guys, but If I was doing 100% of the body in lining I would go to a Line-X dealer as there's have more of the texture on it. I like Rhino lining because it is more rubbery and hold stuff better, but you aren't going to be hauling lumber on your hood are you? LOL

~HJ
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  #42  
Old 07-12-2006
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ok for a 17y/o kid with the summer off, my times worth like 25 cents an hour... plus by looking at the time you spent on the stuff you wasted alot of it...

i maybe spent 3 hour total scuffing the bed, maye 20 mins taping, 5 mins taping off bolts, an hour to clean it... took 2 hours to apply, 45mins between coats, another hour for the second coat, removing tape was 30-45 seconds....

and once again, im usisng it for protection from light impact and rust.... and how the hell did a fourwheeler tear off half the liner...
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  #43  
Old 07-12-2006
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Originally Posted by 4X2XLT
ok for a 17y/o kid with the summer off, my times worth like 25 cents an hour... plus by looking at the time you spent on the stuff you wasted alot of it...

i maybe spent 3 hour total scuffing the bed, maye 20 mins taping, 5 mins taping off bolts, an hour to clean it... took 2 hours to apply, 45mins between coats, another hour for the second coat, removing tape was 30-45 seconds....

and once again, im usisng it for protection from light impact and rust.... and how the hell did a fourwheeler tear off half the liner...
Half was an exagerration, The four wheeler barely fits between the wheel wells, and when I was loading it the metal on the rims rubbed the side and it just doesn't stick as well as Rhino liner.

I could have done it in less time sure, but I followed the direction and took my time so that it wouldn't scrape off when I actually used it. Didn't do me any good though. By tradin time it was in such rough shape I bought a plastic bedliner to cover it up so the dealer didn't see it, so you can add about 150 bucks onto my first total.

The old saying, "you get what you pay for!" Is so true here.

~HJ
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