I just replaced my rear brakes today, and thought I would post some photos, showing how the hardware should
be assembled. These were taken on the passenger's side, but the front-to-back is the same on the driver's side.
I've seen several post by people on how to get their rear brakes back together, hopefully these photos will help.

The self-adjuster has the most parts, one thing to look out for, the threaded portion of the adjuster faces the front
brake shoe on both driver's and passenger's sides:


















































And last, but important, especially if you live where the salt the roads, put anti-seize grease on the center hub. More important
if you have aluminum alloy wheels:

 

^^ Ha Ha, I just read this and said the same thing to myself. I changed everything in my drum brakes except the wheel cyclinders. Lubed everything and even applied white lithium to the springs...

 

+1 For good pics...

 

Rear Disc FTW

 

long time no see bob.. how the hell have you been?

 

Look when the date it was posted. He hasn't been here in a long time.

 

LOL @ responding to a zombie thread......

Kudos to using the SEARCH though!!

 

It got me outta hot water when I didn't know the placement of the adjuster!

 

Bob replace the photo's and I'll make it a full how to

 

Replace the photos?

 

Maybe put them into order and a little write up on what is going on in each photo?

 

Thats odd they werent working last night just red X's

 

The Smugmug server may have gone down.......

 

tsk tsk!!!
you should have used high temperature brake caliper grease not lithium

and you forgot to lube the slack adjuster engagement cable on the curve plate

always always clean out and lube both ends of the slack adjuster, including the threads

i have done numerous rear drum jobs ,, only to find out the slack adjuster was seized solid

( and they wonder why their parking brake never works )

 

I used high temp anti-seize grease on the adjuster, NOT lithium!!

 

I know this thread is old, but it sure has a lot of good pictures!!! Thanks to the original poster!! Okay, so he didn't replace the hardware.... not the end of the world... besides the springs still looked very good... not like mine... YIKES! One of them was actually broken.... That's where my noise came from!! I replaced the whole enchilada... shoes, hardware and drums!! The truck owes me nothing and has always been dependable, so figured it was worth it!!

 

Yes, I didn't replace my hardware either when I did mine over 200K miles ago. They still work very well but I live in SoCal and metal holds up a little better here.

 

doing well!
this truck is my anti-corona medication.
anti bank account too!! ;-(
I have been building hot rods and race cars for other people for ever, Time for ME!

 

So funny I came here to see what kind of trannys I could use for literally the exact same project same colour same body style and same project ideas😂

 

Im having an issue with getting a drum off the drivers side of my 2007 ranger(10" drum). It seems that the drum has some grooving in it, so it wouldnt come off very easily. I was spinning the threaded adjuster from the back/inside in the upward position(hopefully thats right), and im still not able to get it off. If i spun it too far, would it cause the top of the shoes to extend outwards and lock the drum in place still?

sorry, im fairly new to doing rear drum brakes.

 

AAA+ OP. Thanks for the detailed photos.
It should be a sticky or otherwise put on a listing of "How To" threads.

 

did you snack it with a big hammer? In my experience it isn't the brake shoes holding the drum in, unless the e-brake is on. If you can spin the wheel freely, brakes should be good. What usually happens is the drum rusts to the hub where it sits. Hammer will loosen that up.