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Calling all Hurst and manual Transfer case owners

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Old Apr 9, 2009
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TrePaul86's Avatar
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From: Gresham, OR
Calling all Hurst and manual Transfer case owners

So a guy in my night fab class brought in a bucket of ball bearings from his mill they can't use anymore. One microscopic imperfection and they're out...

So I took the liberty of making some things...

I think the large ones are 2.25in diameter ball bearings and the smaller ones are 1.5in diameter or 1.75in diameter ball bearings... Welded a 3/8NC16 nut on the back with TIG and stainless steel filler rod and brushed them up...

You can't scratch these. I took my wire brush to them and didn't make a mark. HIGH STRENGTH STEEL. My original plan was to drill and tap them, but after going through 4 center punches for the holes, the ***** just rounded the punches. Didn't want to spend $50 on bits just to drill the holes to take the chance with the taps of breaking them off inside the holes. So the instructor said just weld a nut on the back side of them.

Here's the ones I made today:



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This one turned out pretty cool with the heat input of the TIG:

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And here's what they look like on the Hurst and in the truck:

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Shane is going to try one fo them out also this weekend for more input on how they feel with the Hurst and what not... Possible sale of like $20 plus shipping.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009
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Cool man, I like the raw steel look.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009
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damn sweet
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009
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The stock Hurst ball is plastic right? If it is than these should be a DEFINITE improvement since they are so much heavier. For shift *****, the heavier the better. The added weight really helps it go into gear much smoother.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009
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Yeah it's a plastic shift ball the Hurst comes with... These are fun with the Hurst too! Really just slides into gear. The stock Hurst ball is like 6oz or so... These shift ***** are like at least 1.5lbs. lol
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009
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That is a great idea. Could you engrave them or is the steel to hard?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009
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Probably if you sandblasted them
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009
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Not possible without a carbide bit. I thought about having the shift pattern engraved in it, but I'd have to take them in and have it etched.

It's easily sanded and grinded... But as far as piercing... not happenin. Sandblasting is useless!
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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Damn, man nice job, goes great with your interior too
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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We'll see how I like it when I put one on my shifter this weekend!
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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I like my level II *****, but that is a damn good idea dude!
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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very sweet.

Could laser etch them! But I like it raw like that.

I am not sure how you plan to put it on a manual tcase shifter, those are not threaded. guess you could thread it though.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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Tre got this link last night on aim...sorry had a friend over and we were watching the fast and the furious! Lol, awesome movie...

I think I'd like these if you could get titanium *****! I'd be all over that mang. Ti to go with my military/stealth/skunkwerks ranger build i'm going for....so keep a look out for Ti *****,
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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hows the real world use going? My mach 1 has an aluminum ball and that thing can burn the hand after the car sits in the sun.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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sweet. good thinkin. looks good
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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Originally Posted by graniteguy
hows the real world use going? My mach 1 has an aluminum ball and that thing can burn the hand after the car sits in the sun.
thats what i am thinking but alum is a better conductor of heat
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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nice i want one send me one
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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i might get one. how many you selling?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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Originally Posted by Redneckstone
thats what i am thinking but alum is a better conductor of heat
True. Aluminum has a heat conductivity of something like 230 W/(K-m), whereas steel (not sure about the high strength steel Tre is using...something with higher carbon probably??) is something like 45 W/(K-m). I believe these are for pure forms of aluminum so actually numbers will be off. So aluminum absorbs heat something like 5times faster than steel. (but its early in the morning so i might be off here with the numbers). So I'd say go for steel *****! lol...
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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Originally Posted by zabeard
I am not sure how you plan to put it on a manual tcase shifter, those are not threaded. guess you could thread it though.
The FX4 shifters are... lol. That was my attempt at being a smarty pants. lol.

You're probably running one of the 97 and older style shifter arm on that tcase. Fx4's are very similar, but the chrome are actually bolts to a bracket that then goes down to the linkage....alot like how a hurst arm bolts to the hurst pivot shifter ball.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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Yup my t-case lever is threaded.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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I might consider one, but in the winter when its -15 out it might get a little cold. I know the plastic Hurst one gets cold.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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From: btwn the Buff and the Roc
hm, may be intrested, wanna trade one for getting one powdercoated when i get my gun and oven setup?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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Hmm.. I wonder if Trepaul dips. I think I saw several clues in these pics.

If I had a manual, id definately buy one, the price is great and they look sweet!
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009
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looks nice, id want to wear gloves in the winter though. imagine getting in with wet hands and grabbing a ice-cold steel ball! you could put a sock over it though i guess. ive got 2 extra shift ***** besides the stock hurst ball, one is a stock shift ball from a old IH grain truck, the other is a wood ball i picked up at a craft section of hobby lobby. i always seem to go back to the hurst ****. i made a t-handle for mine out of a scrap piece of pipe but never really cared for it. ive got a huge steel ball (3") that has threads in it, ive nevr tried it due to worries about that much weight on the end of the lever. id need a adaptor of some sort, the threaded hole is like 12mm.
 
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