sweet

 

Hey, I got a 1999 2.5L also that I am plannin on putting a turbo in. It will be a fun project.

 

yup i can try and answer any questios you have

 

Thanks. I think I got most of my questios figured out so far. Sounds like you got a sweet deal on that turbo man.

 

The kits on ebay for the 2.3L come with a nice blueprinted and rebuilt turbo .68 A/R 3" in/out, etc... for like 600 bucks with a wastegate.

 

yea i saw that but i couldnt pass this deal up im gonna go take pics

 

ok tell me this wasnt a sweet deal so i bought the little turbo from a guy on trs and recived it today and then i was just browsing myspace clasifieds and saw some guy in houston was selling the svo turbo/manifold well i messaged him and asked how much for the manifold he said 100 bucks and you can have it all so i was like sure so now i have 2 turbos and a turbo manifold how sweet is that!!!
theres some pics^^^^^^ bad quality due to my camera phone

 

dont forget 91 octane

 

sweet **** 2 turbos for around 200 bucks i think your doing pretty good i want to supercharge my 4.0 but im scared too i dont have the money for anything or the money to rebuild if i would blow it up but good luck i love the sound of a turbo i want to know more when u start working on it

 

pffft 91.....110

 

the lack of knowledge on boosted engines in this thread is comical

 

Holy crap you are not joking.

 

That is not alot of boost for a 'turbo'. What it could possibly be is alot of boost for a given engine setup. Not all turbo's make the same amount of boost, different turbo's are designed for different applications, for different pressure levels etc etc.

Let me tell you this. All your info is wrong. Tell ME there is no way I'm running 20 to 20+ PSI on my 2.3T. The probe also does NOT have the strongest crank made for a factory engine. I can't tell if it's a lack of knowledge or just ignorance in your post but the fact you didn't even specify for a 'ford motor' makes me laugh. Even if you had meant 'strongest crank made for a factory ford motor' you'd still be way out in left field with your thoughts. The factory 2.3 N/A cranks and 2.3T cranks are the same. The dirt track guys have ran then up ungodly rpms (for the Ford 2.3 anyways) and puked out 700RWHP using them. I'm not saying the 2.3 crank is the strongest Ford crank now, but it sure as hell isn't what you think it is(n't). Even if he stuck with the 2.5 crank and went with aftermarket rods/pistons he still has absolutely nothing to worry about unless he runs into user error and screws up the rebuild himself.


Car vs Truck, not the same. Electronics and technology make a huge difference as well. 6 turbo'd cars under your belt or not you have lack of knowledge here (dealing with a 2.3/2.5T anyhow). What about the boost level do you doubt exactly? I'll reiterate; I run 20 PSI, on 93 octane to boot, with 'stock' turbocoupe electronics. Care to doubt that?


Those kits are utter trash. The turbo's are cheap chinese trash and have a tendency to fall apart, the rest of the kit is OK though.


Either way your info was wrong. You didn't mention anything about internals in your first post either. Well, until you mentioned 4.0 and 5PSI being safe for internals. Of which, he is not turboing a 4.0, so again your info was wrong.


He's not the first to do a turbo swap in a 4 cylinder ranger. Browse around on RPS


I ask the same question: what about that boost level do you doubt? PSI isn't a mythical creature and once you hit a certain level you can't get more. Like said, different turbo's for different applications for different pressure levels etc etc etc. Oh, and higher compression pistons is a no no for boosted engines unless full out race built. The direct injected 2.3T Duratechs run higher CR, but that is a benifit of their direct injection design, even then with the higher CR they are limited to max potential safe boost levels.


Which are complete garbage, are not sized properly for a 2.3/2.5T, and in general are not worth it. You seriously get what you pay for with Turbo's! Refer to what I've already said.

 

well thanks for correcting everyone a@@hole some people were giving and opinion and other people including myself said what they had found out. i researched when my cousin and i were going to do a turbo probe and try and keep stock internals so i guess u could go over to probe talk and tell all of them how they are all wrong and stupid because thats where i got most of my info from i hope u like making people feel like crap. way to be super cocky.

 

Again, you still don't see the error of your ways. The Probe crank isn't the strongest. And I made it clear that my info was based solely on the 2.3/2.5T. You however talked about everything and nothing at the same time.

Don't think I once said anything about probetalk being founded by stupid people, or that the probe internals were not capable.

You on the otherhand used info found for Probes to give advice about a totally different engine.


I was not cocky, but you are like anyone else who is proven wrong then has to get all defensive over it.

 

yea thats why i never posted in here i mean i can take construtive critisim but eveyone was against me i know what i was gonna do i did my resarch the only things i need now is to know how to route my oil and vaccum lines and all that good stuff i dont know if ya;ll knew this but they use to psh alot of power out of these motors but know one relizes that until you tell them they used these motors in dirt track racing and old racecars but my crank is fine even thos im swaping to a 2.3l cranks cuz i got a deal on some internals

thanks D94R i just got tired of eveyone putting my project down so any ways i just picked up my bottom end and will begin my build soon anyone have a 2.3L crank 95-97?

 

he wasnt trying to make you feel stupid, he wants you to stay away from this subject because you have proven to have no knowledge here. its ok though.

 

Bruiser, for your oil lines you'll need two extra. A supply line, and a return line.

The supply line is easy, and for a cheap starter setup, you can use a brake line, T off of the oil pressure sender on the back driverside of the head, and run it to the turbo. Later on when you got everything setup and running perfect you can upgrade to a braided steel hose.

For the return line you can do a couple things. Either drill and tap the block in the same area the turbo block would have the return line. Or put a bung in the oil pan and drain to there. Either way you need to keep in mind you MUST keep the return above the oil level of the pan in order to accommodate appropriate drainage and avoid oil backing up in the turbo.

I drilled and tapped the block, seemed the better route to me.


As for vacuum lines. Get creative. It's actually simple though it may seem like a spaghetti bowl of lines to figure out. Simplest thing might be for you to get a vacuum tree from a junkyard or see if your local auto store sells generic ones, then hook all your lines up to it.

 

thanks alot great info there

 

I FEEL SORRY FOR YOU. THIS PROJECT OF YOURS IS A FREAKING BASKET CASE AN YOU HAVE NO IDEA OF WHAT YOUR DOING YOU CANT JUST CHANGE TURBO WHEN EVER YOU WANT TO UPGRADE YOU WILL HAVE TO CHANGE INJECTORS AN RE TUNE AN PROB REDESIGN THE DOWNPIPE FOR PROPER FLOW AN MORE BOOST DOSENT MEAN MORE POWER IM SURE YOUR BUDDY WITH THE TALON IS SLOWLY COOKING THAT LITTLE T25 OR 14B OR MAYBE 16G IF HE IS LUCKEY YOUR LITTLE TURBO IS PROBBLY MAXXED AT 18PSI AN THATS PROBBLY COOKING THAT ONE TOO

 

[QUOTE=QUICK2.4;918163]I FEEL SORRY FOR YOU. THIS PROJECT OF YOURS IS A FREAKING BASKET CASE AN YOU HAVE NO IDEA OF WHAT YOUR DOING YOU CANT JUST CHANGE TURBO WHEN EVER YOU WANT TO UPGRADE YOU WILL HAVE TO CHANGE INJECTORS AN RE TUNE AN PROB REDESIGN THE DOWNPIPE FOR PROPER FLOW AN MORE BOOST DOSENT MEAN MORE POWER IM SURE YOUR BUDDY WITH THE TALON IS SLOWLY COOKING THAT LITTLE T25 OR 14B OR MAYBE 16G IF HE IS LUCKEY YOUR LITTLE TURBO IS PROBBLY MAXXED AT 18PSI AN THATS PROBBLY COOKING THAT ONE TOO[/QUOTE


umm no he is not cooking it cuz he got rid of it and upgraded it the big evo 3 turbo

and yes i do know what im doing i wont have to upgrad injectors cuz ill be running 60lbs and of corse i know i have to get a differnt tune im not dumb
and what a way to start out at a forum mister ive been here for 3 days

 

I Dont Care I Built Cars At A Shop For 4 Years I Have A 11.30 Street Tire Cavalier @ Low Boost I Know What Im Doing.

 

yeah im gonna go ahead and call BS on that

and i also know what im talking about since i got rid of a turbo cavi to get my truck

if you have a LD9 running 11.30, its NO WHERE near streetable and would NEVER hook with street tires. Now as for the Ecotec motor MAYBE and even thats a far stretch but still would never hook

 

dude, for "knowing" what your doing you certainly dont know how to talk to people very well. Why dont you offer some actual good quality info or tips instead of calling all of his work/ideas crap.

but i can understand that you might be mad at the world, after all you do drive a cavalier.

 

they are decent, for your first car or a beater

but to brag that a cavalier runs 11.30, i dont know it i would feel sorry because its a cavalier or if i would feel sorry for his parents having to find out from a car that he's gay